Where can i find a wiring diagram or parts list for the p118 charger. I have one with a blown input fuse and MOV 1 ? CAPACITOR
With some exceptions, a schematic and parts list may not be needed to fix it, more a matter of your skills, either slight reverse engineering, or visual cues, or being able to post very good pictures.
If you meant MOV1 might be a capacitor, probably not, probably a Metal Oxide Varistor, which is typically a colored disc shaped component put across the AC hot and neutral (if only one of them) to provide some surge protection, at least until a sufficiently large surge(s) damage it.
While it would be good to examine the other charger components, it is possible that this MOV failure is all that's wrong, that it created a short circuit that blew the fuse.
If that is the case you could test by clipping or desoldering it off the PCB, put a new fuse in, and see if the new fuse blows.
It is also possible that enough of a surge got through the charger to damage something else. In a charger common components that might suffer surge damage include transistor(s) or diodes. If a new fuse blows then I would test any of those on the board.
It will work fine to charge batteries without that MOV (if that is the only problem), until the next power surge comes along at least, so you can test it.
If a new fuse doesn't blow and it works to charge then hunt down a new varistor from an electronics supply house or ebay. If you can read the markings on the one present then you can go by that to pick a new one but the electrical values on one aren't critical, except at a minimum you want it to have a voltage rating a bit higher than the normal line voltage in your region, for example 120VAC in the US, but you probably want one rated above 200VAC at least. The less the MOV is rated above that, the better the protection but the more likely it will blow again, sooner.
Otherwise there is a joules surge rating but generally you just pick a replacement with the right voltage trip point and the same physical size including lead spacing. You can go larger for more protection if there is room for that... up to you. Manufacturers can guess what the best value vs build cost is over a big production run but when it comes to an owner replacing a component, it's only a few cents cost to upgrade it.
Digikey (or ebay if you have a month to wait on a part from china) is a good place to buy things like this because under a few ounces weight they will ship cheaper via USPS if you pick that at checkout.
If I went off on a tangent and am wrong, post links to good high resolution pics of the charger board, at a minimum top-down and bottom-up at 90' angle to the PCB to be able to trace the circuit a bit.
cell x 4.2V/cell = 21.0V (in the case of 18V rated packs). However if it doesn't, that doesn't necessarily mean the charger is bad, could be that it's better at detecting a pack with a bad cell in it than the car charger and terminating rapid charge earlier as a safety precaution.