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Intro - about to build 24x32 detached garage

diskreet

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Joined
Sep 13, 2016
Messages
39
Location
PA, USA
After lurking for a few years, and getting great ideas, I figured I'd join. This is primarily an intro, but I'll take anyone's input on this.

We're applying for permits this week for a detached 24x32x12 garage. Right now we have a split-level house with a small 2-car garage, and no other storage space (no basement :sad:). Shed is full of outdoor tools and equipment.

New garage will be car/motorcycle parking, tool storage, and workshop.

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Moving the motorcycle, tools, and automotive items to the new garage will open up a lot of space I can use for smarter storage in there. With new shelving I can definitely use the current garage for typical storage (seasonal stuff), and for our wood pellets.

Planning on:
Drywall walls and ceiling with R-21 batt and R-60 blown insulation, respectively.
Concrete floor with two 4x4 concrete piers to support. Family member who owns a concrete company is handling this.
Epoxy coat floor
Multiple electricians in the family will help me pick out and install anything related to power.

Budget will get the garage built, including floor and electric. Insulation and drywall will require saving up for a couple more months, but my goal is to have it done, painted, finished, by Summer of next year. With a baby coming any day now I'm only taking on some of the work myself; finishing the floor, installing electric, installing insulation, and painting. Building the structure, finishing the outside, and doing drywall I'm not interested in.

Looking forward to learning more from this community as I work through this.
 

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diskreet

Active member
Joined
Sep 13, 2016
Messages
39
Location
PA, USA
Wood frame, 2x6 wall studs 18" O/C.
Footers will be:
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No plans for storing anything in the attic. I'd rather insulate the hell out of it than use the space. I can always hang a couple ceiling mount shelves for high-up storage if I need it.

Couple other details: vinyl siding, shingle roof, trusses will be 24" O/C w/ typical bracing for area. 1' overhang all around. 5/12 pitch roof.
 

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theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
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43,077
Location
SE MI
Spending the extra $$$ and get at least 2" of rigid foam and a vapor barrier under the floor. It will make a difference, especially in winter.
 
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diskreet

Active member
Joined
Sep 13, 2016
Messages
39
Location
PA, USA
Thanks guys. Theoldwizard1, what would the layers actually be - stone, then vapor barrier, ridig foam on top of the barrier, then concrete?

I'll ask the family member who does this professionally, but I'm glad you recommended it - we hadn't talked through that yet.
 

matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,722
Location
SE Michigan
Foamular 150 in 2" thick xps 4x8 is not that cheap in my book, looks like right around $1/sqft @ Home D. Kind of expensive in my book unless slab heating is planned.
 

matouse3

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Feb 19, 2012
Messages
289
Location
Mid-Michigan
What is your planned heat source? If you're going to put down the foam, you might as well run pex through it--that isn't the costly part, the foam is. Even if you don't use it, at least its there.
 
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Firebrick43

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May 12, 2015
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West central Indiana
Are you going to heat/cool all the time? If you only heat when using the garage (or maintain 50 degree temps) and don't have constant heat then foam under the floor is actually a detriment. Well insulated walls and ceiling with no heat will actually stay above freezing even down into single digits as the 50 degree ground is heat and it will rise into the structure and the ceiling/wall insulation will keep it in. If the floor is insulated it will block this heat from rising.

Now if you heat constantly then you want it insulated as the slab will be above the ground temp and the heat will flow down into the ground.
 
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boomer12831

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Jan 6, 2013
Messages
526
Location
northern New York
Did you mean 16" on center? I have the same size garage/ workshop. I put a 12 ft wide door offset to the left and a double window to the right and it has worked out well for me. The man door is on the side just around the corner from the double window. Good luck.
 

Cyberbear

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Nov 23, 2013
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Location
California
As Boomer mentioned, 16" o/c works out best for standard building materials. Don't skimp on the quality of the concrete, use lots of steel and properly cure it before any major construction. No wire mesh in the slab, use re-bar. Since you've got sparktricians in the family be sure to have plenty of outlets and run some 240 v. circuits for the future.
 
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diskreet

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Sep 13, 2016
Messages
39
Location
PA, USA
Thanks everyone. Going to take all the feedback into account very soon. My wife delivered our first child, a boy, yesterday so I need to back off for a few to handle that. I hope he likes cars as much as I do!

As for heating / cooling, I'll probably heat and cool later on, but only to keep temps from getting extreme unless I'm working in there.
 

Mr onetwo

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Apr 6, 2011
Messages
2,005
Location
Coastal Maine
too small...I built 24x32...big mistake! Minimum 28 wide by 40 deep.You would be surprised how little extra the additional size will cost.Also put in 2 doors , not 1 big one.
 

finn

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Mar 27, 2005
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16,187
Location
The UP, God's country
I'd suggest 28'x32' if you can swing it.

I have a 24x32' and it's a little narrow unless you are disciplined enough to keep the sidelines clutter free.
 
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diskreet

Active member
Joined
Sep 13, 2016
Messages
39
Location
PA, USA
I completely agree with going bigger, if I could. The space on my lot is already being a bit stretched to fit this and the storm water management system.

I could probably fit a 28x32 garage, but I just can't do it in my budget right now.

On the bright side, I will use the existing attached garage for storage. The new garage should be able to stay very neat and organized.
 
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