Help Spend my Money... Air Compressor

Turn back now if you don't want to see another compressor buying thread. LOL. I've read lots of these threads and I've tried to do my homework but I'm looking at mostly used and there are many variables.

The constants are 60-80 gal, 2 stage, 175 PSI, around 15+ CFM, cast iron pump (except maybe the craftsman?). Variables are distance, condition, price, duty cycle, & RPM's. The last two are hard specs to find on units no longer in production (and even some in production). Any input there would be greatly appreciated.

I have a 40 lb sandblaster, 1/2 earthquake impact, a couple of die grinders, hvlp sprayer, air hammer, nail guns, etc. I have a bench grinder dedicated to wire wheels and I prefer that to the sandblaster unless it's something the wheels can't get to. I'll probably use the die grinders more once I have a decent compressor. And I'll probably add a sander and cut off wheel to the arsenal.

I've been looking locally for about two weeks but haven't had any luck and I'm getting impatient. So, I've expanded the search radius and I'm also considering buying a new one. I'd really like to be around $750-800. I know it won't get me the best but it can get a decent unit for my needs.

This one is way over the budget but it's actually my first choice because it's such a beast. It's also the furthest away at 3.5 hrs. I haven't been able to get in touch with the seller so it's probably sold but I'll keep trying.

Snap on - 7.5 HP - 23.5@175 SCFM - 80 gal - duty cycle unknown - Baldor motor?
$1300 asking / $3700 new
(can't find specs specifically for this model but the above specs are for the current 7 hp 80 gallon model so they should be close)



This is probably #2. Quality piece. Good specs. A little over what I want to spend but I can probably get it for around $850. Only bummer is that it's a horizontal unit. About 1:45 drive...

Saylor Beall - 18.3@100 17.3@175 - 60 gal - mag starter
$1000 asking / $2300 new



#3. Another quality piece and it's in the best condition. Again, horizontal though. :-( 2:15 drive...

Curtis - 15.9@175 - 60 gal - mag starter
$800 asking / $1600 new
(there's also one other 5 HP Curtis I've found for $600 but no further info/photos and haven't been able to get in touch with the seller)

*** Anyone know anything about this Climate Control line? Can't find any info on it or this specific model number (the above specs are based on a similar CT series). I hope it's not some lower quality line they tried out at one time.***



Not sure what to think about this one but I'm considering it. Heard good and bad about IR. Mostly bad on the non industrial units. 2 hour drive

IR - 14.3@90 14.7@175 - 80 gal - like new 2340 pump (T30?) - mag starter - heavy duty pressure switch
$725 asking / $1500 new



This has good specs and the best price but probably the worst quality. Decent reviews but they're probably culled. 2 hours away...

Craftsman - 5 HP - 16.3@90 15.3@175 - 80 gal
a little dusty but not used much
1500 hour pump life(?)
$600 asking / $1800 new




And finally these new ones...

Harbor Freight - 60 gal - 15.8@90 - 1368 RPM - duty cycle unknown
$799 + tax maybe $750 on sale

This is the only single stage I'm considering but it's also has a higher CFM than any of the 2 stage on this list except for the Snap On...

Puma 6.5 HP - 135 PSI - 20@90 - 1130 RPM - duty cycle unknown
$899 (after 10% coupon) + tax

And I probably should have just saved everyone the trouble and listed this one first even though it's more than I want to spend...

Quincy 5 HP - 60 gal - 15.5@90 15.2@175 - 1310 RPM - 100% duty cycle
$1170 (after 10% coupon) + tax

So, opinions on which one I should get based on the budget and usage? Maybe a top 3?

Go with whichever has parts easily available. I like the Curtis myself, but takes up a lot of real estate when compared to the vertical units.

I would go for something brand new ,highest scfm ,in the budget .

That SO look nice but you don't know what's inside , I don't like surpirses at 175 psi .

My choice would be the IR or Curtis. Reliable, rebuildable, and will most likely outlast a new HF.

The Snap-On looks like the same pump that comes on HD two stage Husky units.

Id get the SB unit. Not only is the pump nice, but its the nicest electric motor out of all of them.

I vote for the SB. There is a reason that pump is one of the most copied pumps ever.

If you go with a used one make sure the tank is not all rusted out inside. That would probably be my biggest worry with a used one.

Stick with Curtiss or Quincy. Absolutely stay away from names that are rebrands like Snap On and Craftsman. Cast iron cylinders will last forever. Big pistons at low speed will run quieter, cooler and with less maintenance. I managed to snag a four cylinder 2 stage 25 hp with a bad motor at auction for $200 a few years ago and put a 5 hp motor with huge reduction pulley setup on it. Fantastic setup.

I'd pass on the SO just because it is extremely overpriced. It wasn't worth $3700 new except to the SO addicts who think everything they make or rebrand is made of solid gold.

With your budget I'd go #2 if you can talk the price down, then 3 or 4.

The SB unit in your photo appears to be 3 phase.

The SO is made by Rolair. They add about $1500 for the red paint and a sticker but still a pretty good piece with, I think, an Italian made pump and Baldor motor. A used one would be worth about $8-1100 to me. It's the CFM that's really appealing. 23.5@175 would be more than I ever need.

The SB is single phase. Circa mid 80's model. One owner and only used for light duty around the house. It's a 720-60 model with a 5HP Ajax motor. The newer models have a 2HP motor and deliver the specs listed above but I'm assuming this older model has similar specs (owner is in the process of moving and can't check the tags).

The climate control was a series that came with mounted dryers on the larger units. That would be great to have but this smaller unit obviously doesn't have one. I'm assuming everything else would be the same quality as their CT series. This is the only info I can find on them. Anyone see anything that would make this better or worse than a CT series?...

FS-Curtis Climate Control Compressors provide clean, dry air for instrument control equipment. Available in Simplex and Duplex models ranging from 1/3 to 25 HP. All units are factory set at 80 PSIG to deliver the cfm you require for you application.
All Climate Control Compressor units with mounted dryers are shipped in wooden crates with heavy-duty skids.

Duplex dryer mounted units are built for strength, accessibility and ease of handling. Duplex control panels available with 150 VA, 120V transformer.
All performance data is ASME tunnel tested in accordance with industry standard practice.
Oil carryover guaranteed within 6 PPM.
Electrical motor guaranteed within +/- 5% of full load stamped nameplate amperage draw.

Standard Equipment includes: Large intake filter silencer, ASME National Board Stamped receiver, ASME safety relief valve, pressure gauge, receiver condensate drain valve, discharge line check valve, discharge line check valve, receiver shut-off valve, v-belt drive, NEMA motors and pressure switches, OSHA totally enclosed steel belt guard, crankcase lubrication level indicator, and pressure switch operated automatic start and stop control (Set 80 PSI).

SO is out. Won't budge on the $1300 and I wouldn't pay more than $1100 for it.

Learned more about the Curtis and I'm disappointed... not the original motor. This guy bought it off of a construction company so he's the 2nd owner. When he bought it, the motor was fried. It was a 3 phase motor and someone hooked it up wrong. So, he put a 2 HP harbor freight motor on it.

The original Baldor motor was just a 3/4 HP though. Man, that's small for a compressor this size. Probably putting out about 4 CFM @ 90. No wonder it looks brand new.

The other Curtis I found for $600 is a 3 phase, about 20 years old, and was used in a commercial vacuum business so that one's out.

So, I'm down to this...

A 30 year old SB.

HF which is on sale now for $750. That compressor actually has very good reviews and should outlast me. I'll probably average about 5 hrs/week on it.

The Puma is only $150 more than the HF and has the best CFM but it's also only single stage.

Should I put the money into higher CFM or 2 stage? 2 stage is better for sure but I can't afford a 20 CFM 2 stage. I can afford a 15 CFM 2 stage or a 20 CFM single stage. From what I read, the single stage is actually more efficient up to 80 PSI.

Northern also has a similar single stage Puma (4.5 HP and 18 CFM) that I can get for $825 if I can score (buy on fleabay) a $75 off NT coupon.

Then there's the Quincy that's $400 over budget but will last me the rest of my life for sure and do everything I need.

I got this one earlier this year for about $1,500 with free shipping using one of the zoro sales. It's not a quincy but it was priced right and provides a ton of air. It's also reasonably quiet.

https://www.zoro.com/speedaire-electric-air-compressor-2-stage-22-cfm-4mu10/i/G0898125/

Realize it's out of your budget. But there's probably something similar on there that's closer to your target price. This one would be pretty close with a 25-30% off sale:

https://www.zoro.com/speedaire-electric-air-compressor-2-stage-3vb60/i/G0764495/

The Quincy QT-54 you are referencing is the V pump, really the lowest end one they sell that's still got a Quincy pump. Spins the pump fast. Not real quiet. The Saylor Beall is clearly the winner in all that you have posted if it is in fact the 705 pump with a 5HP motor.

Do not waste your time on single stage. They are fine for fire sprinklers or climate control, but suboptimal for air tools. I have been there and won't be going back. By the time you factor in pressure drop across the hose, regulator, and couplers, you need them to cycle on at least 115 PSI and cycle off at 140 PSI which is past the efficiency of a single stage unit that gets used regularly.

Champion makes good pumps too. The Advantage and R-Series are their premium lines with the one-piece aluminum cylinder head.

It really doesn't matter if the motor is original or not, as long as it works and is decent quality and nothing stupid was done during the replacement. On 5HP and unit you ideally have a magnetic starter because that's a lot of current for a pressure switch. Few were ever rated for it.

And don't get too hung up on cast iron. Champion has been making pumping out integrated aluminum cylinders and heads since the 1940's or earlier and they're still working and showing up for sale. No valve plate. No head gasket. The turn nice and slow, 734 RPM at 5 HP.

The 703 & 705 look the same to me. I see the newer units have a metal tag on the lower left corner of the pump with the model #. Is the model stamped on the casting anywhere on the older units?

Guy swore it's a 5HP Ajax and he was confused also because he looked up the 720-60 and saw it had a 2HP motor. Anyone know if they changed the configuration of the 720-60 over the past 30 years? The way things have been going, it's probably more likely that someone put the 5HP Ajax on a 703 pump. I know Ajax is out of business but I can't find anything that confirms SB ever used Ajax motors.

If it's a 720-60 then you'd want to pass. The pumps should have serial numbers you can call in or a head casting number. The 705 has a longer stroke than the 703.

I'll find out for sure but it's probably the 703 that someone re-powered with a 5HP.

So, now I'm down to the IR or HF. Not really crazy about either one. I'd prefer a SB, Quincy, Curtis, or Champion.

Since I'm obsessive, impatient, and have to always get a good deal I'm looking into plan C... a 3 phase bargain that most home users don't want to mess with. It's a little more work in the long run but it's going to be easier to find a deal on a 3 phase quality compressor and either run it off a VFD or swap the motor for a single phase.

Found a 5 Hp 60 Gal Champion asking $500. Odd pics but it's in a storage unit...




5 Hp 80 Gal Quincy asking $700...



5 Hp 80 Gal SB asking $1200...



Last two are far and the SB is pricey but maybe he'll take an even 1k. At this point, I'd rather spend a day traveling to get what I want then spending another week obsessively searching for one. LOL. Hopefully I can score the Champion. It's the closest and the cheapest.

The Champion was used to power a single bay automatic car wash for about 3 years. Said they'd take $400 for it. Can probably get it for $350. It's about 10 years old. Forgot to ask what it did for the other 7 years of it's life but I'll find out. 3 years as a car wash compressor seems like it would be light use. A lot better than one that spent 10 years in an auto body shop. But then there's the humidity and salt air (it's near the beach)... rust around the tank tag and it looks like oxidation on the metal clad wire and belt guard.

Good deal or pass? I'm thinking pass just because of the salt air and humid workplace. It looks okay on the outside but it's been sucking and pumping humid salt air for 3 years and they probably drained the tank only when it was half full of water. More photos...

Champion is a good machine if you can get it ( as are the other brands). Look for a cylinder head that does not have a valve plate. You want the R-15B (I think)... pump that has disk valves. They can be easier and less pricey than reed valves

That should be a 1725 rpm motor with a motor starter. It also has the auto drain set up - diaphragm looking thing on the side. If those tubes are crushed they are easy to eliminate and use a ball valve on the tank. Good luck

Centurion is the cheaper line that does not have the one piece head and uses reed instead of disc valves. It would probably work OK anyway.

It does have an auto tank drain, which if functional would take care of the water problems. I can't see the air filter, so it may be plumbed remotely in a drier location.

Also the motor on this one is rated 200V only? You would probably want to pass as you'd want one capable of 230V.

That $1200 Saylor Beall looks like the best to me so far.

Good info. Thanks. I knew about the disc vs reed valves but I thought all champions had disc. Didn't know it was only on a specific pump. Also didn't know about the lower grade Centurion line or notice the 200V rating. Good catch.

I should have thought of this sooner but I have a friend with a furniture shipping business. They make nationwide round trip delivery runs but they're only loaded on the outbound leg. Inbound the trucks are empty. I just checked with him on a price and he can pick up and bring back a compressor for me anywhere in the country for $150. So, I've found this 735-80 SB for $750. 3 phase but for $900 OTD in what looks like excellent condition I'll make it work. Don't know WTF it's doing in the back of the pickup in the rain though. Trying to get in touch with the seller now...

The SB was used in a small repair shop that only worked on their rental cars. Circa late 90's. Shop has been closed for several years. Estimates low hours. Gotta take that for with a grain of salt of course but it looks like it's in excellent condition. Tags are kind of beat up which is a little odd for everything else looking like new.

Thinking of jumping on this one. Yay or nay? Anything else I should check/ask?

More photos. Sorry about posting those big photos all along...

How much will it cost you to repower it (either a single phase motor or an inverter)? Also, I thought you wanted a vertical unit with a smaller footprint (I sure would!)

By the time you spend $900 plus repowering costs for something that eats up real estate, maybe look into a new Champion or Quincy. You could get a brand new vertical Quincy for the same money, with no rust in the tank.
I think the Saylor Beall is cool as hell but don't buy a compressor because we think it's cool.

Bottom line: Any new compressor you buy will make air. How much air and how much you want to spend is up to you. I'd rather have a single-stage unit TODAY that I would sell down the road after I bought a two-stage unit.

I can get a good, used 5 Hp VFD for around $100 so I'm looking at 1k OTD for arguably the best compressor money can buy. It will do everything I want and it will be the last compressor I'll ever need to buy.

I would prefer a vertical unit but they're surprisingly hard to find in an industrial quality single or even 3 phase. I have a spot under my steps that this will fit into and not lose too much vertical space.

In an ideal world I'd get an industrial quality compressor, 20+ CFM, new condition, 2 stage, single phase, 80 gallon, vertical tank for $750. But, that ain't gonna happen so I have to compromise somewhere. LOL

VFD's are downrated when fed in single phase power. You will typically need a 10HP drive for the compressor. The cheapest I've seen them are around $260 on eBay for the Chinese ones and they must be programmed correctly. They are not plug and play. But people are doing it every day on all sorts of equipment. For simplicity you could get a Baldor 5HP for $349 on eBay all day long. Also, don't discount 7.5HP air compressors. If you are going to be using a ton of air that will be even better than a 5HP.

Thanks. Wasn't sure of the best way to do it. If I swap motors I can get a little for mine so I should be looking at $200-250 for a motor swap. We agreed on $600 for the compressor so even with the $250 swap/VFD and the $150 shipping I'm still OTD for 1k.

That pump can take a 7.5 so that's a good idea also. That would get me from 17.3 to 26.9@175. Wish I had a neighbor nearby so I could share my air. LOL

That is a SB 705, rated for 5HP max.

My bad. I was looking at the chart for 80 gal & saw they have an 80 gal 7.5 hp. Didn't notice that one uses the 707 pump. Guess I won't be sharing my air after all.

One other thing to consider, if you swap to a single phase motor, you'd have to supply a magnetic starter as I don't see one in the picture, so programming a VFD may be the way to go... If you do go single phase and magnetic starter, I would look to the Square D ones, they are the most affordable of the definite purpose type, about $130 on eBay from Pacific Air Compressors.

Thanks. Good info. Wasn't sure how that worked exactly.

So, change of plans. Not related to the need for a mag starter but it's even better news now that I know I'd have that additional expense with the 3 phase unit.

That 735-80 SB for $1200 turns out to be a single phase and it already has the magnetic starter. It's in a little better condition than the 3 phase and it's also lower hours and it's never been run hard. It's also about 5-6 years newer. For about 5 years it was used for a neon sign business to blow low CFM air into the glass after bending. Then it was in a home garage pumping up bicycle tires for the kids for about 3 years. Past two it's been collecting dust in another home garage. One owner.

We agreed on $1000 and I'm going to head out there tomorrow to get it. I would have been looking at $1250 to switch the 3 phase over to single phase. I'd rather have the shipper snag it but they won't be in that area until later next week and I'm afraid it will be sold by then (he's having a garage sale this weekend... so I'll take a little extra cash and try to get first dibs on some other tools ).

You're getting a nice one!

Gannz said:

Thanks. Good info. Wasn't sure how that worked exactly.

So, change of plans. Not related to the need for a mag starter but it's even better news now that I know I'd have that additional expense with the 3 phase unit.

That 735-80 SB for $1200 turns out to be a single phase and it already has the magnetic starter. It's in a little better condition than the 3 phase and it's also lower hours and it's never been run hard. It's also about 5-6 years newer. For about 5 years it was used for a neon sign business to blow low CFM air into the glass after bending. Then it was in a home garage pumping up bicycle tires for the kids for about 3 years. Past two it's been collecting dust in another home garage. One owner.

We agreed on $1000 and I'm going to head out there tomorrow to get it. I would have been looking at $1250 to switch the 3 phase over to single phase. I'd rather have the shipper snag it but they won't be in that area until later next week and I'm afraid it will be sold by then (he's having a garage sale this weekend... so I'll take a little extra cash and try to get first dibs on some other tools ).

Click to expand...

Sounds great! Just remember to wire with #10 THHN (in conduit) or #8 NM-b (Romex) to the mag stater and you'll be in code and all with well with the world! A 30A breaker will probably be fine. But if you follow the wire sizing above, you're good for a 70A breaker to prevent nuisance tripping.

Make sure you hear it run before dropping that kind of cash in a used compressor. Do the math on how long the tank should take to fill up based on specs of compressor and ask to hear it fill. That could give you a rough idea of condition of valves, rings, etc. looks nice though.

I didn't see the motor plate on the champion. I would have said skip it unless you can get them cheap. I bought a pair for 250 bucks. One three phase- the other single phase. I sold the 3 phase for 250 bucks and kept the single. It is only a 3hp motor but it does fine. That champion pump is good for 3 to 7.5 hp.

Good luck on the SB- hope it works out. Those are def. top shelf compressors.

A few years ago I changed out my air handler to a lower amp unit. That freed up a 30 amp 240V breaker. I kept the 10/3 romex attached to the breaker also. It's terminated in a junction box in the crawl ready for just this moment. And I have 250' of Al clad 10/3 THHN.

I also think I need a disconnect since I can't see the breaker from the compressor? 30 amp?

I have some 240V power tools that I use on occasion in the shed but I'm moving my workshop to the garage. Was going to install a 240V outlet on that same circuit as the compressor (shed has it's own 100 amp service w/ a 240V outlet) for those tools. I won't use the compressor and power tools at the same time of course. Square D has a nice 30 amp fusible disconnect with a switch for $15. I'll install the 240V outlet right next to the disconnect so I remember to kill the switch whenever I plug in a 240V tool.

So, unless this is wrong... I'll run the romex to the disconnect (thru a rear knock out so it's all in the wall) then the clad THHN from the disconnect to the starter. That wall is also the same wall that the compressor will be next to so I'll have a very short leg from the disconnect to the starter.

By code you need the wire for 125% X 28A = 35A, so sizes above, so #10 THHN, or #8 Romex. 5HP Disconnect or sub panel are also needed, since more than 50' / out of sight of panel. Motor loads are treated differently than resistive loads by the NEC... Lots of people do non code installs and they work though. Plugs aren't allowed either, since only pin and sleeve are rated 5HP. You might just get a 4 space subpanel and put it on the wall. One for the compressor and one for your other stuff.

She's home! Thanks to everyone for all the advise and help with this.

This compressor is, at most, with slack, 10' from my main breaker panel and I already have 75% of the install done. Hate to have to re do it but the garage is new construction so I'm eventually going to need to get it inspected.

I don't have any #8 romex. I have enough #6 romex and plenty of clad #10 THHN. I don't really need the space in my main box but, since I need to change things anyway, I might as well run the #6 romex to a 6 space sub panel in the garage. That will make life a little easier when wiring the rest of the garage.

60 amps should be enough for the garage? I have two 200 amp panels within 5' of the garage anyway or I'd run 100 amps. I'll run the lighting off of a different circuit/panel so I'll just be using the 60 amps for the compressor and outlets. I'm going to make the shed a dedicated wood work shop and it has 100 amps of it's own already so I won't be running many amp heavy tools in the garage all at once. Probably just the compressor, 6.5 amp fan, and shop vac for the blaster or one power tool would ever be running at the same time. I also have a 6 amp dehumidifier but I only run it when I'm not in there and running other stuff.

The Romex can't be used unprotected unless its running in the rafters, behind drywall, or something like that. I don't know what your garage looks like. It may be more code worthy to use MC or THHN in conduit.

Only running the romex from the main breaker panel to the sub panel in the garage. It will all be in the wall or in the crawl. From the sub panel to the compressor I'll be running the #10 MC.

I always thought it was cool to staple romex to the bottom of joists/rafters as long as it's a non habitable space like an attic, crawl, knee wall, etc. I sure hope so because I've ran a lot of it that way. LOL I know that heavier gauges need to be in conduit irregardless but I thought anything 6 gauge or smaller was ok as long as it's not in a living space?