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Broke a snap on yesterday

C

crane operator

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3/4" extension. Had it on my new wright long handled ratchet. And a 6' cheater.

20161016_090916.jpg

New (to me) lowboy trailer, need the lugs off. Doing wheel bearings and seals and decided one brake drum and shoes need replaced.

3/4" impact didn't touch them. Ratchet. Then Ratchet and Cheater. Then Ratchet and Cheater and torch. Then Ratchet, Cheater, and Torch, and blocks to keep me from spinning the tires (on a 20,000 lb trailer). Then Ratchet, Cheater , and nylon rigging to the trailer bolster to the rim to keep the trailer from riding up on the blocks, spinning the tires.

Finally the extension gave up, after getting one lug to squeek loose, and giving up on another 3.
20161016_091734.jpg
1" drive socket is arriving tomorrow, to go on the 1" drive gun. Or the torque multiplier. If that doesn't work, the hubs coming back off, and I'm torching off the rear of the studs and driving them through.
20161016_091804.jpg
The really big gun is 1 1/2" drive, I don't have a socket for it.
 
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A

Al Borland

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Probably counterfeit Snap-on. Everyone here knows you could have done the job with a 1/4" Snap-on.:lol_hitti
 
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JJThrasher

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1" gun plus oil. If that won't take it off you have serious issues. I've never heated when using the 1". What size? 33mm?
 
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Roberts210

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Interesting that the Snap On was the weak link. I would have thought the ratchet would have failed first.
 
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C

crane operator

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Yes, the rim is bent. I just got the lowboy from a auction, Its not the first aluminum rim I've seen coming from the oilfield that's bent, but I'm looking for another one.

I'd have to be able to get it off the trailer to replace it though.:lol_hitti

Ratchet is a 42" wright. My present on epstien's day this summer, its a beast, but I will admit to seeing some handle flex, 6' cheaters will do that. But I do like it much better than my standard length 3/4" ratchets, that I always end up using a 30" cheater on.

Rims are pilot hub 33mm, not left hand thread. I've never been around hub pilots this tight. I've had much more trouble usually with budd's.

I penetrating oiled the lugs yesterday and today. Tomorrow the 1" drive socket shows up for the main event.

I've got enough compressor - 10hp 3 ph, 120 gal tank, 150psi.

Usually 240 lbs (bouncing a little) on the end of a 6' cheater breaks most things loose, especially with a little torch heat.

I've only got the standard snap on torque multiplier 3/4" in 1" out, I've never used one of those wheel mounted style, or heard from anyone who has.

I'm not bashing snap on or anything, they are great tools, I actually feel terrible about abusing and breaking good stuff, but I'm not putting a 6' cheater on my cheap chinese extensions, and the wheels have to come off.

Usually if I'm afraid I'm going to destroy something, I pick out a cheap tool, but I was really winding up the torque with the big cheater.
 
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AA/FC

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All that and still wont break lose, Holy Schnikes!

Be sure to let us know how this turns out...
 
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Todd.Brock

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I know you probably could not get around using it, but I wonder how much torque you were losing with the extension. The twist I have seen put into things before they shear is crazy sometimes. Good luck with the 1" impact!!
 
5

53chevy5

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I'll also ask if are they reverse thread, I worked on one awhile to then found them to be left hand thread.
 
K

KWtech90

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I can't really tell from the pictures, but like others have said you may be dealing with a budd wheel. The easiest way to tell is by observing the end of the stud. The stud will have square shoulders on the end if it is a budd in which case the driver's side will be reverse threaded while the passenger's side will be threaded with a normal right hand thread pitch. Generally a budd wheel uses a 1 1/2 nut while a unilug with normal threads will use a 1 5/16 or 33mm nut. And why are you having trouble keeping the wheel stationary? Try adjusting the slack adjuster all the way up so that the brake shoes are contacting the drum. This should provide enough force to keep the tire from turning.
 
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C

crane operator

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Got it off today!

20161017_130343.jpg

20161017_130349.jpg

Amazon came through about 12:00, with the socket.

Had the 1" gun all primed up. Had to wait a couple times for the compressor to catch up. That big gun uses a lot of air.

One nut I had to hammer, wait on compressor and repeat, 3 times to get it loose, I wasn't sure that one was coming loose.

I had penetrating oiled them, but I think the hammering is what got them off.
 
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C

crane operator

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Oh- kwtech90- I couldn't adjust the brakes up, I had already pulled the shoes when I had the wheels drum and hub off doing bearings and seals.

It had a ruined spring, and the shoe had set crooked, ruining the shoes and drum. I figured no use to fight past them going back together, so left them out.
 
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Claluja

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Unfortunately, I've become an expert at getting seized lug nuts off trailers with a Dremel. Bolts typically start spinning with the seized lug nuts with the ones I've dealt with. Cut an X in top of the lug nut with the Dremel, and use cold chisel to peel down sides like peeling a banana. Works great if you need it.

Edit - sorry, just saw you already got them off.
 
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Claluja

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jeremy v said:
I've never had to deal with that happening before. When the lug stud itself starts spinning along with the seized lug nuts does it tear up the lug stud or the hole in the hub? Can you still get a good troublefree press fit when putting in a new stud or do you have to do something different with the new stud for it to seat firmly and hold its' position for future lug nut installation and removal?
Click to expand...

These have been on saltwater trailers. I've always replaced the hub (and thus the studs) after a stud(s) spins with the seized lug nut. I've never tried to replace only a stud - mainly because I would have no clue how.
 
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crane operator

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donpauli2

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Is there a point here about Snap On. You used a 3/4 gun that didn't do it and a six foot cheater. Heck a lot of stuff will break like that. That's a lot of twist on an extension. And if ( I repeat.) if you tried using that extension with the 3/4 gun you would have lost 1/2 of its torque through shock twisting. Just asking


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rhandwor

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I've found any time you use an extension on an air impact gun you loose about 1/4 of your power. You need an impact with a built in extension. For trucks at least 1 inch drive.
 
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Cope

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donpauli2 said:
Is there a point here about Snap On. You used a 3/4 gun that didn't do it and a six foot cheater. Heck a lot of stuff will break like that. That's a lot of twist on an extension. And if ( I repeat.) if you tried using that extension with the 3/4 gun you would have lost 1/2 of its torque through shock twisting. Just asking


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Click to expand...

I think just that it was so tight even the Snap-on broke. Next time it might have been the ratchet or the socket.
 
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crane operator

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to: donpauli2

crane operator said:
I'm not bashing snap on or anything, they are great tools, I actually feel terrible about abusing and breaking good stuff, but I'm not putting a 6' cheater on my cheap chinese extensions, and the wheels have to come off.
Click to expand...

That part may be hidden in the thread. I'm totally impressed with the snap on tools that I have. I in no way expect any tool to take a 6' cheater bar with me pushing on it. I won't try to warranty this extension- I broke it through abuse- plain and simple. The wheels had to come off.

I do get amused by some threads where people are talking about only having 3/8" drive tools, and don't know why people buy 1/2" drive. In the heavy equipment world, 1/2" rarely does, what we have to do.

If it helps one person see the options that are available with really stuck items- I guess I thought it was worth posting.

And it did help me out by posting it, because someone suggested the torque multiplier, built just for wheels that I ended up getting (I hadn't seen that type before). Big thanks to the guys that suggested/recommended it. (general geoff and farmall450:thumbup:)
 
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Art From De Leon

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crane operator said:
to: donpauli2



That part may be hidden in the thread. I'm totally impressed with the snap on tools that I have. I in no way expect any tool to take a 6' cheater bar with me pushing on it. I won't try to warranty this extension- I broke it through abuse- plain and simple. The wheels had to come off.

I do get amused by some threads where people are talking about only having 3/8" drive tools, and don't know why people buy 1/2" drive. In the heavy equipment world, 1/2" rarely does, what we have to do.

If it helps one person see the options that are available with really stuck items- I guess I thought it was worth posting.

And it did help me out by posting it, because someone suggested the torque multiplier, built just for wheels that I ended up getting (I hadn't seen that type before). Big thanks to the guys that suggested/recommended it. (general geoff and farmall450:thumbup:)
Click to expand...

Good post, and makes me wonder why a home mechanic, would even consider having a 3/4" inch impact, UNLESS he has never had anything better than a piss-poor quality 1/2", or even a good 3/8" drive air impact.
 
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WWheeler

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Wright Tool 6425, 3/4" Dr. 42" Railroad Track Ratchet. 45 tooth dual pawl. I'm seeing it a few places for under $200.

I might have to put that one on the Xmas list. Hopefully I wasn't too naughty this year.
 
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Rickss96

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crane operator said:
If it helps one person see the options that are available with really stuck items- I guess I thought it was worth posting.
Click to expand...

Yes - this did help me. We've all had problems at times getting fasteners off. I really liked the idea of splitting the nut with a Dremel. And I'll have to look at getting one of these torque multipliers, too.

Next question, now that you've got the wheels off how do you torque them back on? Use the torque multiplier? Seems like that could give very inaccurate results.

You can probably tell from this question that I've never worked heavy equipment.

-Rick
 
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