Converted welder to gas--can't get it to weld now!

uberschnell · Oct 27, 2016

I recently bought a Farm Hand (rebranded Campbell-Hausfield) Versa Arc 95 welder. I know this is a crappy model, and it's old, but it works...or should.

I wanted to get a "cheap" start to MIG welding before upgrading to a better machine later on. I've got a bottle of C25, regulated to ~20CFH at wide open. I used Lincoln wire for flux core, and have .030" Hobart wire for MIG.

I don't claim to be good at it, but I have welded before.

First picture is how it welds with flux core wire. (please don't judge me!)

Second picture is the horrible train wreck that happens when using gas. There is almost no penetration...it's almost like a voltage problem, but I'm plugged straight into the wall and even on the lowest setting it is totally unusable.

Third picture is the polarity adjustment, which I don't totally understand. The knob was seized and broke off, and I couldn't figure out how the mechanism works. It appears that those plates can be swapped in order to reverse the polarity. I tried it both ways, same result. With and without gas, same result. I can hear the gas escaping the nozzle when the trigger is pressed, and watch the gauges on the regulator move. Pretty sure it isn't a gas problem.

Does anyone have info on how to reverse polarity? Do I have another issue? Is this model just that much of a POS that it's useless with anything other than flux core wire? Is it possible the wiring in my garage is just too small to support a MIG welder, but works fine with flux core?

THANKS!!! Woo first post!

sberry · Oct 27, 2016

Did you switch the polarity and,,,, that little machine is an 023 wire unit. You didn't switch, got to start there.

uberschnell · Oct 27, 2016

Thank you for the quick response!

There are 4 wires coming into the polarity "switch", which doesn't even seem physically able to switch anything. Swapping those copper plates in the 3rd pic swaps the connection the same as swapping wires. Is there a simple way to tell what polarity it's set to with a meter? I'm assuming this model has constant power to the gun...is it DC or AC voltage? How much should there be? What goes to the gun, and what goes to the ground?

Either way, I tried the plates both ways.

The flux core wire was .035 and fed OK. The feed system is junk, but it does seem to be functioning properly for now. I have trouble believing that this unit would function with .023 wire yet is totally useless with .030.

sberry · Oct 27, 2016

030 will carry twice the power. Like trying to **** a golf ball thru a garden hose. It just wont make enogh current and keep the voltage hi enough to melt the big wire off.
We will have to wait for someone that knows or find a manual for it, never used one.

taumac · Oct 27, 2016

Is there a side panel where your ground and positive hook to?

I have a Lincoln 140 but most welders should have something like this.

If running flux core wire your ground wire should be on the positive side and gun will be hooked on the negative. It will be reversed if using MIG. My ground would be on the negative and gun on the positive.

AnEv942 · Oct 27, 2016

Seems something is missing-like the bus bar.

This is CH wg2060 but switch is same I believe-its a manual affair, knob doesnt turn it.

manual if applies
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/24209/Campbell-Hausfeld-Wg2060.html
I Assume the 2 bars in lieu of single buss, assume pins in knob that would identify its polarity position, rotating 90° would change polarity?

taumac · Oct 27, 2016

AnEv942 said:
Seems something is missing-like the bus bar.

This is CH wg2060 but switch is same I believe-its a manual affair, knob doesnt turn it.

manual if applies
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/24209/Campbell-Hausfeld-Wg2060.htm
I Assume the 2 bars in lieu of single buss, assume pins in knob that would identify its polarity position, rotating 90° would change polarity?

Wow, that is different. After looking at the picture makes total sense.

uberschnell · Oct 27, 2016

EDIT: I just saw the manual page; guess you posted while I was typing. Thank you AnEv942! Extremely helpful!!

Alright, I checked the 4 connections with a multimeter. North is negative, south is positive. west is electrode, right is ground. Oddly, it's roughly 45V AC when the trigger is pressed, according to my cheap-o meter?

My picture has it set up for flux core. It's too late to try welding here now, but I will report back tomorrow. Maybe I didn't actually try it both ways, lol. Worth second-guessing myself at this point. I'll double check my nozzle and gas flow, too.

usdemt · Oct 27, 2016

Not to insult, but you did change the nozzle from the tapered plastic one for flux core to a copper one for gas right? Not sure which one comes on it but many smaller ones come with the plastic.

taumac · Oct 27, 2016

I looked and found picture of that missing busbar. Unfortunately, it's obsolete and no longer made but made can jump terminals depending on using mig or flux

uberschnell · Oct 27, 2016

I still have the broken pieces of plastic from that picture, lol. I broke them off because (well, aside from stupidity :thumbup:

) it looks like it's simply a knob that you turn. I guess sometimes it DOES pay to read the directions--if you have them!

The two bus bars in the pic are still intact and I'm now quite sure I've got them oriented correctly. I'll report back tomorrow.

A friend on Facebook recommended submerging the gun underwater to see if it bubbles, ie make sure the gas is flowing. If it doesn't work with the polarity correct, I'll try that.

AnEv942 · Oct 27, 2016

Ohhh, you have the metal bits of the original bar that taumac posted.
So ya between all the pieces you be able to tell orientation. Obviously want to cover that somehow.

Um really. think I'd try a pile of ashes or sawdust before dunking the gun in water? I'll turn the wire speed completely down to purge line when first starting-doesn't take long though.
2nd on changing the shielding nozzle, keeps the gas at arc, but looking at manual I dont see a different nozzle? I should be almost flush to contact tip which picture looks like it is.
Kind of a different setup. Good luck

Ign · Oct 28, 2016

uberschnell said:
I still have the broken pieces of plastic from that picture, lol. I broke them off because (well, aside from stupidity ) it looks like it's simply a knob that you turn. I guess sometimes it DOES pay to read the directions--if you have them!

The two bus bars in the pic are still intact and I'm now quite sure I've got them oriented correctly. I'll report back tomorrow.

A friend on Facebook recommended submerging the gun underwater to see if it bubbles, ie make sure the gas is flowing. If it doesn't work with the polarity correct, I'll try that.

Why are you worried about gas flow? I don't see porosity that would indicate no gas. If you hear it flow it's working.

Looks to me like polarity was wrong.

That machine will do much better on .023 but your problem is not wire size here (although I would only run .023 once you get it working, assuming your drive rolls can handle it).

I see an upgrade to a Hobart, Miller or Lincoln in your future

Ign · Oct 28, 2016

Oh and you made mention of it not working even on the lowest setting. I guess you're trying to reduce current draw on your AC wiring but believe me, any 15A 14ga household circuit should power that machine sufficiently before duty cycle is reached.

MIG doesn't burn as hot as flux core or dig as deep so conduct further testing at Max Power (Great name - - Thanks, I got it off a hair dryer.). You will not be pulling enough that 14ga household wiring will restrict the capabilities of the machine substantially. My point is if you keep trying low power settings you WILL see bird **** 'cause it just can't lay in there. And burn-off rate is painfully slow on these baby wire feeds, esp w .030 your wire speed likely needs to be very low (no idea what scale or knobs CH uses here)

uberschnell · Oct 28, 2016

Ign said:
I see an upgrade to a Hobart, Miller or Lincoln in your future

Sigh....if I'm already in it for the nice tank and wire and helmet, I guess it only makes sense to go ahead and splurge on a decent welder. :sad:

-I triple-checked polarity with a meter, I'm definitely electrode positive.
-I was questioning gas flow because of some comments on Facebook, but I'm ignoring that now. It is audible, the tip is clean, etc.
-I am using a copper tip, which the machine came with.
-Even on the "incorrect" EP setting, it still lays a decent bead with the flux core wire. There just seems to be a little more slag. MIG is totally unusable. The best way I could describe it is that there's almost no power, it just sputters. My HF mask keeps flickering on and off and my eyes hurt. :shocking:

Is it possible there is something about the function of this machine that works for flux core but doesn't work as well with MIG? Is it possible there is a failed component that can be replaced for lots of time and little money? Is bad wire a "thing?" It's Hobart solid MIG wire from Northern, but if all signs point to that...

Ign · Oct 28, 2016

Damn if you're sure polarity is correct I really don't know.

Sputtering can be too much (or too little) wire speed. I'd guess too much in this case just given the machine. Have you tried it at near zero wire speed? Is it even infinitely adjustable?? If it's just "tapped" wire speed settings you might try .023 after all (as a last ditch effort). I can't imagine it will completely fix your problem but if it gets BETTER it tells you the machine is incapable of governing drive roll speed low enough to burn off .030 solid wire w shielding.

Yeah, I'm kinda grasping at straws here but simultaneously looking for cheap, quick and easy things you might as well TRY.

Ign · Oct 28, 2016

Also many guys even regard the 135/140 class machines as mostly disposable if anything significant goes wrong w them, so it's not terribly likely yours is worth fixing, but as you said if you have lots of time....maybe

TSC has the Handler 190 at $650 right now, albeit a 220V machine.....hop on that baby and you'll think you're in heaven after your little baby welder right now

AnEv942 · Oct 29, 2016

Corrected link to manual
Um passing thought- the mig wire source- ER70S6?

uberschnell · Nov 4, 2016

Just to update this for posterity, I gave up on the CH welder and bought a Hobart 140. My wallet hates me, but my welds don't **** (as bad) now!

nine4gmc · Nov 5, 2016

Oh man, you're going to love that machine. I have a Hobart 140 as well and run gas and flux through it depending what/where I'm welding. I'd love to upgrade to a 120/240 dual voltage machine but honestly, the 140 does everything I have needed it for.

Converted welder to gas--can't get it to weld now!

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