Hydraulic Oil or Dexron-III ATF fluid?
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Torque1st
MEMBER EMERITUS
Check the manufacturer's recommendations. If you can not find the information the ATF will work and is readily available.
Torque1st
MEMBER EMERITUS
Use the ATF.
dawg
Well-known member
hyd oil is cheaper
ScaldedDog
Well-known member
ATF is available anywhere and everywhere.
Mark
Mark
I think I will change mine out for synthetic when I do a fluid change. It should work well & shouldn't have to be changed for several years, just checked every couple years for moisture & if there isn't any it should be good to go. At current prices to change mine over to amsoil would be 100.00 so it isn't something I would want to do very often.
tdkkart
Well-known member
What properties of synthetic do you think would be advantageous when used in a lift??
High temperature resistance?? Shouldn't be a problem in a lift that's run 1 minute at a time.
Better lubrication?? I doubt that a small hydraulic pump has much problem in that area.
Better fuel economy?? Don't think that's a concern.
Better flow at low temps?? If it's too cold for the lift, you should be in the house too.
Synthetics are fine in their place, I don't think a lift is one of those places.
High temperature resistance?? Shouldn't be a problem in a lift that's run 1 minute at a time.
Better lubrication?? I doubt that a small hydraulic pump has much problem in that area.
Better fuel economy?? Don't think that's a concern.
Better flow at low temps?? If it's too cold for the lift, you should be in the house too.
Synthetics are fine in their place, I don't think a lift is one of those places.
Torque1st
MEMBER EMERITUS
If your lift is being operated 10 times per day, 5 days per week, 52 weeks per year then, maybe an oil change every 5 years would be advisable. For a homeowner lift... -Never!
ATF is usually about a 10 or 15 weight oil. Hydraulic fluids are available in many viscosities but the generic stuff available to most of us is probably a 30 weight oil. The fluid in a lift does not get hot enough to need anything but the ATF.
A fill with standard ATF available everywhere will give a lifetime of service in a home lift. There is absolutely no reason to use a synthetic or amsoil etc in a lift.
ATF is usually about a 10 or 15 weight oil. Hydraulic fluids are available in many viscosities but the generic stuff available to most of us is probably a 30 weight oil. The fluid in a lift does not get hot enough to need anything but the ATF.
A fill with standard ATF available everywhere will give a lifetime of service in a home lift. There is absolutely no reason to use a synthetic or amsoil etc in a lift.
The only reason I would do this if in fact I do is my shop is not heated unless I am in there and I live in a location where it reached -17*F with -40*F wind chill this winter. Two winters ago my wife's car got water into the rear strut which didn't show up until the temp got down close to 0*F at which point it was like riding in something with no suspension & was physically uncomfortable to ride over bumps, RR tracks, etc. I plan to do all work in the fall before winter hits but sometimes Murphy strikes when you aren't expecting. While running the salamander will warm up the building to work, it won't do much for the fluid temp in the resovoir in the amount of time I'm out there. Once I get the corn furnace hooked up & working I plan on keeping it somewhere around 40*F so the cold flow won't be a problem. I definitely agree if the lift is in a heated area use regular ATF & use the money saved to buy more tools.
porschedude996TT
Well-known member
The key to the proper fluid is the soft goods comparability. If the o-rings and seals are not compatible with the fluid, they will degrade or swell. As far as performance, there is little difference at the temperatures that the lift experience. As fa as price between the fluids, forget it and buy what the manufacturer recommends.
Tarheelgarage
Well-known member
Some of you are making this too difficult; just buy the cheapest ****** fluid and fill it up. Don't loose any sleep over it.
porschedude996TT
Well-known member
Lets use Racing Fluid from B&M...
mslisaj
Well-known member
I used the ATF Dexron III. It cost more but I was told it was the better oil. I have a Bendpak and a Propark lift in my shop and this is what I use............
Nothing but the best........
Nothing but the best........
regguy1
Well-known member
+1 on this, I always added used ATF for my in ground twin post when it went low...lift lasted 37 years and it's failure had nothing to do with fluid used.
scoutkid
Well-known member
Interesting note: the company I work for traditionally used ATF in our gearboxes. However, over the last few decades ATF manufacturers have added gripping agents to the mix, making it very good for Auto ******'s, and very bad for high speed gear sets. We changed to a different oil with no gripping agents.
Not that a lift cylinder is exactly a high speed gear set, but I would again, recommend taking a look at the manufacturers recommendations.
Not that a lift cylinder is exactly a high speed gear set, but I would again, recommend taking a look at the manufacturers recommendations.
hdossett
Well-known member
I just changed the fluid in my 4 post (hydraulic RV leveling jacks). Took two gallons and the book called for Mercon III for normal conditions, Mercon IV for cold weather where "popping" of the jacks may be a problem. I noticed the popping a few years ago in AK, but not this summer, must have been warmer this year!
Do not use anything but ATF "non synthetic" in a Mohawk lift. That is straight from the pump manufacturer who makes the hydraulic pumps for Mohawk. I am a Mohawk service technician. I am not sure why, but if the pump manufacturer says non synthetic, than non synthetic it is. I have seen Mohawk lifts form the early 80's that have had nothing but regular ATF fluid in them and they are still working fine. Most have only had the fluid changed a few times in 30 years too. There is no reason to use some space age, million dollar, gold embossed synthetic ATF fluid. If you have extra money to throw away, throw it my way.
Oh, and use of a synthetic ATF fluid will void your warranty too. Probably so with all lift manufactures, but I don't know that for a fact.
I inspected an old Western Mfg lift today and it had not been inspected since the early 90's and definitely hasn't had any fluid changes either. It was built in 1988. I did change the fluid today though. The lift ran fine for the last 20 years on regular ATF and regular ATF was put back inside.
The other lift I inspected today was a Mohawk lift from the early to mid 80's. I don't know when it was inspected last if it had ever been inspected, so it surely has not had the fluid changed either. Again, it has ran on regular ATF fluid just fine and is fully operational today, 30 years later. Both of these lifts are used daily by a big utility company.
Please, change your lifts fluid regularly and don't go longer that 3 years without a fluid change. Mohawk states to change it yearly.
It was just a freak thing I inspected these two old lifts today and saw this thread. I guess it was meant for someone here.
I hope this helps with the debate.. Good luck!
Oh, and use of a synthetic ATF fluid will void your warranty too. Probably so with all lift manufactures, but I don't know that for a fact.
I inspected an old Western Mfg lift today and it had not been inspected since the early 90's and definitely hasn't had any fluid changes either. It was built in 1988. I did change the fluid today though. The lift ran fine for the last 20 years on regular ATF and regular ATF was put back inside.
The other lift I inspected today was a Mohawk lift from the early to mid 80's. I don't know when it was inspected last if it had ever been inspected, so it surely has not had the fluid changed either. Again, it has ran on regular ATF fluid just fine and is fully operational today, 30 years later. Both of these lifts are used daily by a big utility company.
Please, change your lifts fluid regularly and don't go longer that 3 years without a fluid change. Mohawk states to change it yearly.
It was just a freak thing I inspected these two old lifts today and saw this thread. I guess it was meant for someone here.
I hope this helps with the debate.. Good luck!
olytdi
Well-known member
Compared prices on ATF Dextron) vs Hyd oil and there was a great difference in price. On the MaxJaxx, the recommendation is to use Hyd or Dex as alternative. Bought standard farm grade hyd oil for the lift and it works flawlessly.
If your seals are happy, I'm not sure what you gain by going beyond the basic recommended oil.
If your seals are happy, I'm not sure what you gain by going beyond the basic recommended oil.
6768rogues
Banned
My lift specifications said to use ATF. I filled it about 12 years ago and haven't added a drop since. I see no advantage in using synthetic unless you have money to burn. It is not like you are trying to enhance the performance of the lift.
Charlotte01
New member
while you cannot mix atf and hydraulic fluid, either one will work in a hydraulic system. i work on rvs and most slide out hydraulic motors are atf. either one will work, but do not mix them
dupler
Member
Reviving an old thread because I'm replacing all the seals in my lift's hydraulic cylinder. I really don't know exactly what fluid was put in the lift because when I bought it ten years ago, I had the vendor set it up in my shop and they filled it. Its red like ATF so probably is. Since then its been only lightly used and for the most part, just stacking cars for storage until a couple weeks ago when the cylinder piston leaked enough to pour oil out the vent.
I ordered a seal kit, dismantled the cylinder and found that the green piston seal had disintegrated into a considerable amount of green dust and some larger green crumbs. There's no scoring or any sort of damage to anything other than the piston seal.
The lifts manual calls for ISO 32 light hydraulic oil and says nothing about ATF. So I'm wondering if the ATF was responsible for destroying the seal?
Because of the crumbs, I'm going to flush and replace, but I'm thinking I should go back with #32 hydraulic fluid rather than ATF since that's what the book says.
I ordered a seal kit, dismantled the cylinder and found that the green piston seal had disintegrated into a considerable amount of green dust and some larger green crumbs. There's no scoring or any sort of damage to anything other than the piston seal.
The lifts manual calls for ISO 32 light hydraulic oil and says nothing about ATF. So I'm wondering if the ATF was responsible for destroying the seal?
Because of the crumbs, I'm going to flush and replace, but I'm thinking I should go back with #32 hydraulic fluid rather than ATF since that's what the book says.
isb cornbinder
Well-known member
I agree 100% All of my shop hydraulics are on ATF DEX3 from Walmart,
metalmanbryan
Member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2016
- Messages
- 9
had a globe lift it used jack oil my newer rotary uses atf
vettex2
Banned
I use Redline Syn ATF because I had a bunch leftover from a sponsor
rburke65
Well-known member
Napa ATF in mine.
longez
Well-known member
me too
matt_i
Well-known member
they are both the same thing (a hydraulic oil) with the exception of the ATF has the friction modifiers so when it gets squeezed out of the clutch packs the friction material grips instead of slides.
I've been involved with industrial conveyance lift equipment which literally ran a couple million cycles just on normal ISO-32 mobil hydraulic fluid. Never changed, was still running perfectly after 12 years in production. In my mind that's an application which is not in the same ballpark of severity as an automotive lift which might see, like 10-12 cycles per day? This, maxed out was a ~2000 lb lift, around 36", 70x per hour. There's other servo-hydraulic equipment I've worked on which has a huge rack of controllers, a 50hp motor on the pump, the cylinder rods are around 4" dia, and it uses....ISO-32 mobil hydraulic fluid.
So I would trust the normal hydraulic fluid. There's no clutch packs. ATF might be a more widely available (before Tractor Supply) product, that most everyone familiar with vehicles can source. I think there's still ISO-32, 46, and 68 hydraulic fluids, so some variability there. I will try to source Mobil when my lift arrives, due to my experience with their products in my work.
I've been involved with industrial conveyance lift equipment which literally ran a couple million cycles just on normal ISO-32 mobil hydraulic fluid. Never changed, was still running perfectly after 12 years in production. In my mind that's an application which is not in the same ballpark of severity as an automotive lift which might see, like 10-12 cycles per day? This, maxed out was a ~2000 lb lift, around 36", 70x per hour. There's other servo-hydraulic equipment I've worked on which has a huge rack of controllers, a 50hp motor on the pump, the cylinder rods are around 4" dia, and it uses....ISO-32 mobil hydraulic fluid.
So I would trust the normal hydraulic fluid. There's no clutch packs. ATF might be a more widely available (before Tractor Supply) product, that most everyone familiar with vehicles can source. I think there's still ISO-32, 46, and 68 hydraulic fluids, so some variability there. I will try to source Mobil when my lift arrives, due to my experience with their products in my work.
I know its an old post to quote but what bad things happen if you mix atf with hf? how about power steering fluid?
The reason I ask is because I have an old tractor that I use all three in the power steering system depending on what is lying around.
Lastly, what makes brake fluid its own species in the hydraulic continuum?
dave89iroc
Well-known member
DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1, is a polyethylene glycol-based fluid (contrasted with DOT 5, which is silicone-based). Fluids such as DOT 3 are hygroscopic and will absorb water from the atmosphere.
isb cornbinder
Well-known member
Lastly, what makes brake fluid its own species in the hydraulic continuum?[/QUOTE]
The short answer is brake fluids are not supposed to degrade the "rubber" parts in a brake system. Hydraulic oils like ATF should not be used in general automotive brake applications.
We use only DOT 5 here and have done so for over 30 years.
I use Dextron 3 in my power steering/Bosch bake booster system. The C4 automatic and Gear Vendors OD are also filled with D3 ATF.
The engine is a 1947 Ford C69A Flathead V8 with a TEC3r engine management system and an Eaton M90 Supercharger. The car is a 1940 Ford.
The short answer is brake fluids are not supposed to degrade the "rubber" parts in a brake system. Hydraulic oils like ATF should not be used in general automotive brake applications.
We use only DOT 5 here and have done so for over 30 years.
I use Dextron 3 in my power steering/Bosch bake booster system. The C4 automatic and Gear Vendors OD are also filled with D3 ATF.
The engine is a 1947 Ford C69A Flathead V8 with a TEC3r engine management system and an Eaton M90 Supercharger. The car is a 1940 Ford.
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