Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT The Build Thread - Hello from SW Mustang, OK

penright · Dec 27, 2016

[Edit] I will be updating this thread by moving my pictures from Photobucket to Google Photo

My wife and I just bought a new house. Our old one was a two car about 25 feet deep. We also had a 19 x 19 for storage. We have a 02 Mustang Convertible, that is not classic but has sentimental value. So it got one stall, my wife's car got the other, and I got to scrape ice. My dream was to build a detached garage, that had one two door and two one doors. The two door area was for mine (yet to be built) and hers (02 Mustang) play cars. One of the two one doors was for the "project car" and the other was for servicing. That way I would always have an open bay to work on spur of the moment cars. My wife and I had a long discussion about why anyone would need 7 car doors (2 for the house, 4 for the shop, and 1 on the storage building). So fast forward, never got the dream shop, but we decided to move closer to my work. So we bought a new house. We did not build it, but it is less than a year old, the previous owners were transferred to a different city.

The new house has a two car on one side and one car on the other. The one car is a pass through. One of the requirements of the new house is being able to build a detached garage. The neighborhood we bought in has a Homeowners Association, but they allow detached building with certain rules. So our cars are in the two door and the Mustang is in the one door garage. The lot is on the outside circle, there is enough room for a driveway beside the house. I choose that instead of using the pass through so I don't have to move the Mustang, plus it allowed me to move the building over enough to have some back yard. After buying a new house, I am on a tight budget for the building. So I had to make some compromise. I had to scale the drive down so I could afford it and at the same time make it functional. Hopefully, it will be finished in a few days and we will see how good the decisions were. It is 30 feet wide and 24 feet deep. I wish I could have been a little deeper, but lot size and budget dictated the size, more lot size than anything. I put two single doors, thinking the separation of bays, trying to give as much room between cars. The placement of the door dictated by the trusses and support beams. Facing the front, the far right bay will be the project car and the one to the left will be service. The area to the far left and back is storage.

I have a lot of questions I will post in other forums and look forward to learning as much as I can. I will refer back to this post to set the stage for questions. The builder said, if they get the trim this morning he should finish by tonight. I did run two conduits. One is for power and the other is for low voltage wires. I also ran gas next to the building, but don't have any immediate plans.

So here are the current pictures.

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D45 · Dec 27, 2016

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

Looks like a fun build

Are you contracting the build out?

I am kind of surprised the HOA doesn't dictate what style of finish you have to go with, looks like you live in a very nice sudvision

penright · Dec 27, 2016

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

D45 said:
Are you contracting the build out?

Contracting

D45 said:
I am kind of surprised the HOA doesn't dictate what style of finish you have to go with, looks like you live in a very nice subdivision

They did. Being from Oklahoma, no slight to Tulsa, you are defined by either OU or OKState. The guy that I had to get to sign off my colors is a OU fan and he knew I am OSU (OKState) alumni. First words out of his mouth was, You can not use orange and black. The HOA say's you have to match your house colors and driveways have to be concrete. So I went with desert sand to match my paint and burnish slate for the roof and trim, which matches the house shingles. Also they have placement rules. I had to get them to sign off on plans. My lot backs up to field and there is drainage behind the house that I could not impede. That is what dictated the size more than anything. It took 11 truck loads to level the pad and drive.

The plumber for the NG basically charged me $100 to pull the permit and make the connection. I was having sprinklers installed by a old neighbor, so he trench the electrical and gas. I had to have the gas pipe in the ground before the slab, so I had to do some things out of order. I had to buy a friend a city license to pull the electrical permit and give him a couple of hundred bucks to cover the cost of his guy. I doing as much labor as I can.

The driveway is an interesting story. When we bought the house, I had budgeted from most important down to cool to have. For example closing cost was #1. Appliances were #2 and shop came in at #3. I had a stand by generator for the house, that got downgraded to portable as each budget buster for the shop hit. First the pad, then because of existing driveways we had to pump the concrete. My plans had this skinny little drive trying to save money. The contractor said, lets form up the building and then we discuss the drive. I was no, I have to know my budget. But I went with experience. So he did the forms for the building, then the drive. Looking at it, like yea I see what you mean, making that last stall turn is impossible, ok make it wider. Each time he moved it over I was like $$$$$, but it needed what it needed to be functional. Any way, I am down to do all the wiring, but the portable generator may have to be latter. I am doing the wiring for the generator, because I used some of the same trenches for the building to move the inlet just behind the fence.

ratdoggy · Dec 27, 2016

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

I have a friend in Mustang OK He runs a landscaping company there

penright · Dec 27, 2016

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

Here is a shot from the back yard,

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you can see the valley at the back. Also by looking at the fence, you can see the slope from the side to side sloping down. The far back corner of the building in the picture is about 4 1/2 feet above the middle part of the valley at the fence.

penright · Dec 29, 2016

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

They did finish it yesterday. Right now this is the only finish picture I have. Most of my tools are stored in our church enclosed trailer. I also pull the seats out of one of the old van and was able to put a lot of boxes in it. So between the van and trailer, it held most of the garage stuff. I did have to put some in the shed, but at least the realtor could take pictures, show and hopefully sell the old house. Last night by the time I got home, went to church, brought the van and trailer to the new house, it was too late and dark for pictures. So most of the good pictures will have to wait. Lots to do this long weekend. Unload trailer/van, make the second trip to clean out the shed, haul final trash away, expose (dig) the conduit ends from the house and the long 90 from the building for final connection, move the gas riser closer to the building, and start organizing the shop. Not in that order. Hopefully, the electrician will be by Tuesday, to set the panel, finish the conduit connection, and pull a string to see how much wire I need to buy. That has to be my #1 task.

Anyway here is a quick picture my wife snapped for me to see it while I was at work.

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softailtom · Dec 29, 2016

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

Hello from Yukon Ok. Glad to see fellow Okie on here good luck to OSU tonight.

Sunset_Z28 · Dec 30, 2016

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

Hello from Newcastle. Shop looks great!

penright · Dec 30, 2016

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

softailtom said:
Hello from Yukon Ok. Glad to see fellow Okie on here good luck to OSU tonight.

Sunset_Z28 said:
Hello from Newcastle. Shop looks great!

Thanks to both of you. The football team had a better game than basketball today. Both of you guys are close enough, technically I live in Tuttle. I am real close to Hwy 4 and Hwy 37.

@Sunset_Z28. Do you have a Z28? What year? If you are from Newcastle you might know the builder Rex Barker?

Sunset_Z28 · Dec 30, 2016

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

penright said:
Thanks to both of you. The football team had a better game than basketball today. Both of you guys are close enough, technically I live in Tuttle. I am real close to Hwy 4 and Hwy 37.

@Sunset_Z28. Do you have a Z28? What year? If you are from Newcastle you might know the builder Rex Barker?

I've had a few over the years. An 84, 85, 88, 93, 97, and 00 SS. Don't have any hot rods anymore. Don't know Rex Barker, only lived in newcastle a couple years. Im from Guthrie originally.

penright · Jan 5, 2017

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

Updating this post, since it kind of turned into my build post. I wonder if I should ask the moderator to move it for me?

Got the panel up and going. Man, that was a fun pull.

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The picture may not look too exciting, but the effort that went into getting it there make it a beautiful picture to me.

Never pulled wire that big or that distance before. As I rolled it out across the yard, I was thinking this is not going to work. Started out with the electrician pulling and my feeding. Then it went to a couple of neighbor kids, one lifting, the other pulling for slack, that way I could push more. The finial 25 feet, neighbor kid dad pushing, me and the electrician pulling. Oh and I forgot to mention there were 4 90's. Would have had to have 5 except went back and recut the trench to give a big sweep. I remember asking the electrician why does code limit it to 4? He said, wait till we pull the wire, sometimes rules are just practical. I understand now.

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BajaScout · Jan 5, 2017

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

Very nice! A place like that would cost a fortune in San Diego. I was surprised to see a place name Mustang OK would have HOA rules though.

penright · Jan 5, 2017

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

BajaScout said:
I was surprised to see a place name Mustang OK would have HOA rules though.

Why's that? Sounds rural? Didn't seem that way being from OK.

Actually missed type the title, it should be SW of Mustang OK. That is not the actual town the address is in, but unless you are from the area, the actual town would not mean anything. Mustang is bedroom community to Oklahoma City. Most neighborhoods like this in OKC, the HOA would not permit detach buildings period. The fact this one not only allowed them, but allowed metal was one of the reasons for buying it. The other is land is cheap enough that I could afford the half acre in a neighborhood that has 2000 sq foot homes. Half mile to the east is one acre lots with 4000 sq foot homes. My old house was in a really small town (pop 400) and it was 1300 sq feet on one acre.

I really like the HOA it's some protection, but not too restrictive for a transplanted city boy.

BajaScout · Jan 5, 2017

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

penright said:
Why's that? Sounds rural? Didn't seem that way being from OK.

Actually missed type the title, it should be SW of Mustang OK. That is not the actual town the address is in, but unless you are from the area, the actual town would not mean anything. Mustang is bedroom community to Oklahoma City. Most neighborhoods like this in OKC, the HOA would not permit detach buildings period. The fact this one not only allowed them, but allowed metal was one of the reasons for buying it. The other is land is cheap enough that I could afford the half acre in a neighborhood that has 2000 sq foot homes. Half mile to the east is one acre lots with 4000 sq foot homes. My old house was in a really small town (pop 400) and it was 1300 sq feet on one acre.

I really like the HOA it's some protection, but not too restrictive for a transplanted city boy.

Mustang seems to infer freedom. Roaming the range and living the free life.....No rules (before fences).

penright · Jan 9, 2017

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

Look what I found when I got home tonight ....

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Terranova · Jan 9, 2017

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

That's always nice, for sure. Looks great. Good luck moving forward!

hossrn · Jan 9, 2017

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

I Live in Warr Acres. Getn ready to have a shop built close to that size, (30x30).

Where did the building come from? Looks like one of B&M's weld up buildings.

Looks Nice.

penright · Jan 10, 2017

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

hossrn said:
I Live in Warr Acres.

Grew up in Bethany, just north of 50th on Willow, graduated PC (The Original) 1980.

hossrn said:
Where did the building come from?

(All numbers are top of my head) :lol_hitti

Barker Buildings. The basic 24 x 30 was $14,500 with slab. I had to do the dirt work and driveway. Then I added insulations $1,400, second overhead insulated door $850, 4 windows at $250 each, the 45's $80 each, and then I added a roll of wire for $150. The budget buster, had to rent a pumper truck for concret. :eyecrazy:

softailtom · Jan 10, 2017

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

penright said:
Grew up in Bethany, just north of 50th on Willow, graduated PC (The Original) 1980.

(All numbers are top of my head)

Barker Buildings. The basic 24 x 30 was $14,500 with slab. I had to do the dirt work and driveway. Then I added insulations $1,400, second overhead insulated door $850, 4 windows at $250 each, the 45's $80 each, and then I added a roll of wire for $150. The budget buster, had to rent a pumper truck for concret.

Small world I grew up in Bethany lived at 46th and Willow.

penright · Jan 14, 2017

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

Someone in another thread was asking about getting power to his detached building. I started to reply, then I realized that I have not described it here yet. I did talk about pulling the wire, but not how it got there. So I thought I would post it on my build thread and then just reference it from other threads. That way I kill two birds with one shot.
I can say that publicly, it is still quail season here in OK. :bigun2:

First how to get from the panel that is in the house's garage to the unbuilt detach shop. I was thinking about installing sprinklers, so I asked the landscaper if he would also trench the power for me. So that is how I justified adding sprinklers. :willy_nil

Then talking to the electrician about loads, 99.9% of the time it will be just me and there would not be that much of a load at the same time. I went with #3 stranded copper, 100amp breaker, and 100amp breaker panel. Way overkill for what I need. If I was truly pulling 100amp continuously then the #3 would have too high a voltage drop for the distance. Most I can see lights, welder, and maybe the compressor kicking on, peaking at 35 to 40 amps. The reason I chose the breaker panel that I did, it's breakers matched my house.

So how to get from the inside to the outside.
Here is where we had to work with.

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The since both pictures were taking facing the wall, seeing the wires coming in from the meter, and knowing how big the meter box is, we can guess a rough area the meter box could be, gut without knowing exactly where the hole is in the meter box it would only be guessing. So we punched small exploratory holes first.

Here it is now ....

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I don't don't have an after right now of the panel inside. Someday I may comeback and edit this post and add it.

After punching a small hole from inside the panel through the brick, we discovered the 2" knockout in the lower right was too low. We actually hole saw a new 2" hole just above it. So there is a piece of 2" running between the panel and the outside box. Couple of quick notes. That other 3/4" connected to the box runs a short distance and will be a feed form my future portable generator. I had a trench going to the back yard and I had a hole through my wall, why not plumb the conduit now. You see the 1" that I have not finished off yet. That runs right beside the 1 1/4" all the way to the building. It will be for low voltage wires from the house to the shop.

Here is the panel in the shop. All I could find is a 2" sweep and I was under pressure because the concrete guy was getting ready to pour. In hindsight. I wished I would have made up a 1 1/4" sweep, with a 8 foot glued to it when I was doing the rest. I stopped about 3 feet short since I did not know the exact location of the pier in that area. Long story. So I had to use 2" and adapt the 1 1/4 to it. Does not help when pulling the wire.

tMnz9TsKPC7K1Z_xclKY6_CPz1V_QeDebrimML1BqCCx0KD7sn5bsmhBoX3PCJKGYZll3YgLjkATgDF_NnD5dMlu5M-hNDc96uwDOXYIsK_5EN6XIZ6xMxgJ2mbdsxPEqXTOgdJxHom9FkhcFTGbEfr0pI-IBKfeIhzv8wB0AGk5Xf8ZaBWPoVLH5phnptz3JJtuTQOPYOFGfQoJ10Qp8GBCzL6a8MpTzfaHqN_rsw1mOCAxUc7wcjSywh-qwCFdByfp1VQWVBHSkentK5mKb_dUz69iNyyO9bfck6llbZDp-Xhrj8BtZ4bjopxpC2fRoWcZ3bwR97F0k69IuYPkplxUk6AujMwIHX6MdwoGmGCbsDx_oQYAcFcz9C6vFngCQmGrke1ixafqX4LM-sw35ZZ8iKEpCIUt-n0FYZ-_Kp3CfsTrxzqTplLkf5lW0vDkARq4vtwRAUzX4QWywi5HjN258zrrYm128Kqn69UhMN18I_CKInHiTzXdPCdvmk_ezyNFvv9Sr2cHlcr4QRHSCx7dJYxuCg3OOvGM8nqva6NQ5740mqqR8oZKUk0zEkk37HJF-xmoBeJ50WfUClofrKeZSEg9V_yeywoMgll6s-q7yxz836QfOrbNfwCN6njflDORjTDEeKF_bViSzU-PqlP_fmNWGbHS2LlMPtST7A_VATeQ4ckulbr9WRhBIj9wvsvEhIM-BMicAACltBA5IAQX=w696-h928-no

penright · Jan 18, 2017

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

Started the inside wiring last night. My first EMT bend.

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It is actually straight, it just the angle I took the picture. At least that's my story and I am sticking to it.

My second try was a little more tricky.

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Here it is installed

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This is kind of what the bench area will be. For the box in the middle, you will have to stay tuned, cliff hanger thing. Actually the truth, I have this bright idea (literally), but I don't know how or even if it will work. Maybe a while before I can get to it.

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penright · Jan 27, 2017

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

Here is the bright idea for the workbench task light.

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The middle Jbox, the right duplex shunt has been broken. The bottom will be wired into the lights, so it will come on when the lights come on. The top one is wired into the outlet that powers the compressor. That outlet has a switch and if it is on, then the top middle right outlet will power up also. That will light up the brake light.

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I don't have my lights yet, for now, I have 2 cheap 4-foot lights tie strap to the rafters and extension cords. Also, I am starting the shelving so the bench is disorganized.

Here are some of the build pictures

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Try not to laugh at the welding. At my current skill level, it's put a lot on and hope some sticks. The first try was just the EMT connector, and the bent EMT using the set screw. Just too flimsy. So I cut the plate and created the saddle and welded the EMT connector to it, then welded the EMT to the connector. Create the piece to attach to the spoiler. My plan is to take the Jbox back apart and use carriage bolts welded, so it will look like studs sticking out and all will be smoothed inside. So I will have two sticking out the top and two out the side. For that to work I will have to notch the sides, so they will slide over the studs. By do it this way, I do not have anything 12volts and less mixed with 110v ac.
When I first powered up the brake light, I used 12V brick. It was way too bright. And if you think about it, that design to be seen in broad daylight.

L9hjbv5SqRceKpwWK2gs2tmk3YGrfb8S1B6nT-j6fGgkFYgGZX0PqalgUPjWGQ7XxaitApwj1txZaddCS9Keoqb2nKjHf_G-j1pwpuEiuAstqLURf4T7wYHObr6K6P6CxOn_5m1b9JlGfy6wl4A6xe-Nzkah7nSLuTXOaiTLgYEPJvmj7QBM0GioWen-WErna3gg0eAROzXWIyYOlEUOD8MHpfQ0WE50jjQVy1OU6DrH1vPGks5HYItcCFDMp6ganELviQgGmiX7O-QNSP9I7RPITQ8av5iQe91RJ1beiXuU9suKao5xX6XiwNacbUm80cU2vWkpwjAgVvFLKMObH9DbCHlKuqHo3djzI2tSS4kBr9bmDBSEkRYTZ5wSvJnds09K4j67Jnxvd6tttKs5AlLf69sQD6D6_7tnDGXs9pgbPugHiz9_eCLOAuG5WTj_pBTW-nDbVh05tWSeoLOS0wjm6Mdukp2VsmTu8MvGWjlPsLGnUJRFJb_gyi4XqI9mBywZvUJpvRhig2pAk60YjPCwIV1GJlU6SWslxab5qE_xVpl4b8vu4Bu0BL_kHiqCy3j4-5O2ut8542vdqhjhDGicOrmdhpwtfNalI8CqcN8qmHzVmMRevXRNs7rAbLpWNzt885g7cGlFwy1OFgfa19e5vyIrSgTMCqsRUsbxCc3LFy0yampMTqzZ37iKptX6BswYy7G91r0zipwLkBkL6_y2=s928-no

Upper left is straight 12v brick. Top right is 9v brick. Lower left said it was 7v brick, but I could not tell a difference when I measured it showed 12v. Not sure if I had enough of a load or what. The bottom right is with the 9v brick and 36-ohm resistor. I tried a 100 ohm and it would not light up. I could have used Ohm's law and calculated the voltage drop but had the assortment of resistors, so went with the trial and error.

Here is a shot from up under it.

sG4W--SJdGne4XpOBeGCG-1T3IqcxP_ubZ_YlGUZtAj6OevLJ65ofxnwhJ5etHqWAWYjlWIaXL38kV4zaKEztn_8pi9eqtB3XXBG5CLyPrXsJzyrAuhjYG26mlqppWYE7LIgRRhS-CSJBmGla-n4st9V-eVsRG91HC5WfZSEVUcEeSmGT26rrQijp3eERvI4GFCC81C_r_EeJ_9ghLyJLjiZQE5eWvxOADTL6PQiygtofqV3jrkphtrFAHEB4HCjt8424eCf2oZheLMPIdk3KiktT7HGUp_5wOxkjw3BuMEebpYVROiw_tQO4vBC1uJht2_ZUP6x5SRRPjHBw0ZAlLyxZ9kkT7jXvJ2Z7B-_TTTKJUxmtXFoVUEEkhaydBi08NdTODBrkRnVQZJgx1_AiiQNdR0Tze4nxfM_chI3h-k5VcDnJiHJJqLVe_x41y7GLmQDhsB6j9KQgLafJ9YresiQ08WqWWeeO0LunoKy5A-WUGVl-rigmaSk8m75dRe-NJhC0r3nplzwsO3jIhVj3fHwsNJwCQ4G2xLA9XS7yHXuJqGSo5Ogy0LjkcPlJ-hO81IaVZoWQocOGOAjvC6GIY4GpByN_ixeP2eSe5KL8ssg_v9wdqJBfKoWo98d2l6gipmSMjwFU8LTiAQdjYy5ER5tF7xC69GUGH6wKb9MVHK6PFIGQrR8y45yyJzaRzWZQ6sqJGPju8I6KpEL7jH__faJ=w1024-h768-no

The story of the spoiler, my wife's driver is a 07 Grand Prix GXP. Is it legal for a great grandmother to drive a GXP is a discussion for a different thread.

Anyway couple of years ago, right before Christmas, she was rear ended. That was when I learned insurance companies consider a used GM trunk original equipment. The spoiler on GXP is little different than the base Grand Prix. Ours was not hurt so he used it and gave me the one off of the used trunk. The guy at the office and I was discussing repurposed car parts and how they were used in shops. I remembered the spoiler. Not counting the scrap metal, the spoiler was free. I used the whole 300 led strip, it cost about $8 and the 12v brick was like $7 off Amazon. So really all I have is about $15 in it. The EMT was when I tested a 90 degree stub to see if it would fit between a pole and insulation.

softailtom · Jan 28, 2017

Re: Hello from SW Mustang, OK

penright said:
Here is the bright idea for the work bench task light.

The middle Jbox, right duplex shunt has been broken. The bottom will be wired into the lights, so it will come on when the lights come on. The top one is wired into the outlet that powers the compressor. That outlet has a switch and if it is on, then the top middle right outlet will power up also. That will light up the brake light.

I don't have my lights yet, for now I have 2 cheap 4 foot lights tie strap to the rafters and extension cords. Also I am starting the shelving so the bench is disorganize.

Here is some of the build pictures

Try not to laugh at the welding. At my current skill level it's put a lot on and hope some sticks. First try was just the EMT connector, and the bent EMT using the set screw. Just too flimsy. So I cut the plate and created the saddle and welded the EMT connector to it, then welded the EMT to the connector. Create the piece to attach to the spoiler. My plan is to take the Jbox back apart and use carriage blots welded, so it will look like studs sticking out and all will be smoothed inside. So I will have two sticking out the top and two out the side. For that to work I will have to notch the sides, so they will slide over the studs. By do it this way, I do not have any thing 12volts and less mixed with 110v ac.

When I first powered up the brake light, I used 12V brick. It was way too bright. And if you think about it, that design to be seen in broad daylight.

Upper left is straight 12v brick. Top right is 9v brick. Lower left said it was 7v brick, but I could not tell a difference, when I measured it showed 12v. Not sure if I had enough of a load or what. The bottom right is with the 9v brick and 36 ohm resistor. I tried a 100 ohm and it would not light up. I could have used ohm's law and calculated the voltage drop, but had the assortment of resistors, so went with the trial and error.

Here is a shot up under it .

The story of the spoiler, my wife's driver is a 07 Grand Prix GXP. Is it legal for a great grand mother to drive a GXP is a discussion for a different thread. Anyway couple of years ago, right before Christmas, she was rear ended. That was when I learned insurance companies consider a used GM trunk a original equipment. The spoiler on GXP is little different than the base Grand Prix. Ours was not hurt so he used it and gave me the one off of the used trunk. Guy at the office and I was discussing repurposed car parts and how they were used in shops. I remembered the spoiler. Not counting the scrap metal, the spoiler was free. I used the whole 300 led strip, it cost about $8 and the 12v brick was like $7 off Amazon. So really all I have is about $15 in it. The EMT was when I tested a 90 degree stub to see if it would fit between a pole and insulation.

Love the spoiler!

penright · Mar 20, 2018

The last post was Jan 28, 2017. Have not made much progress for the amount of time, but did get my phase 1 lights up. You can visit this thread for more background. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6458290&postcount=1

I am using 9 100 watts LED bulbs, space in 3 x 3 pattern.

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Counting left to right, top to bottom...
The circuit breaker box is at the top (Back) and the switches are at the bottom (front door). The second box is for power outlets. There are two switches. One switch turns on Back row (1,2,3) and closest to door (7). It also turns on an outlet that the bench light is turned on. The second switch turns on the middle row (4,5,6) and front right two (8,9). Phase 1 is the conduit from the circuit breaker to the switches/outlet. Also, the wire for phase 2 is pulled from the switch and looped to boxes 7 and 4, to finish installing and wiring up 5,6 and 8,9.
Here are the pictures looking from the front door to back and then from under box 4 to the door.

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Ou_JUl-WlBSL29zRDT51j_6zNrAqMK8Px0p8FOjDmmHp_gIXcUSpxnOzvnJ0O9MPOZTFsYtbs3_EHXZnmnhrh309BZDk5CzqrRowUEQCRZ0prU6Rm63UHS6mGGLGeDol_xP78TR4omlTfoVmt6SKGnyfINI66GRh6xRjsMkmBqo4lYgbKiSav23HjgsFapIq9NWRuzoxvIY-qCE_tnXO4YxpLc80eJGo1lsoJ9S4ci3h67dnE8-AyLszlidQw6IjpJqHlgc6YqCmNwONJKLBOUc3mXkDFLcbkX8YR4bdn02ysgyxRCOyFYNt0qaqmj7BICbLR5Bi4QiK99RVfyOGYK3kR9-npVxKyp2CO0IWcf1MrLSJhUnkGEhYXU6mxOGX5mEe5bWFcld2xIgT895OlCZQsfeh9TMgmLe9fUyxJSHfIkDODI6-IIuv_SkG607L7G3HWLqO6wjzWTNGwJgjykRhuFQHu7utCpXzoAgdHxvezfeqh-ZamzJHZrfftDcVVD83i_0WWrcNcxY7cIHxnZL3Jst8rYjBrLrJe1fsif99JBgxDQTgoAIUHTCdoS112doi3eC5tiKtmFRJp8JT_r0QmFwLd0UyYBFHh427aEKnhdQOTuBOGsrs_FG8paig1mtt5yrreEZ9rwCHIO3eLsLrkKkBVlTURDEZhjeKkxVplUFZ4UMOSK0lcVEuWe0_G2rGSTxKnanMP-mKM_VuAy2T=w696-h928-no

NOTE: The drawing was when I was going to use 3 switches, but I was concerned with fill capacities. So I cut it down to two switches. I also added an extension to the switch box.

penright · Apr 6, 2018

One more line crossed off the todo list. I finished pulling the low voltage wire. Every time I build something, in the end, I wished I would have... Fill in the blank. I wish I would have structured differently for shelves. One that I did do right, is while the trench was open for electrical, I had them throw in some 1" for low voltage. All it cost was the conduit. I also laid another electrical conduit into the back yard just in case I get a generator. My only regrets so far, after pulling 6 cat 6 for over 220 feet, I wished I would have gone a little bigger in conduit size.

4j6izbHDRNJRW_w6hkkr0NY1ioE-ykNue8F1my24Hk6hMFkpu5zj8JmOMYQeLzi4WCLqn_HyKCRvJNk2RKNVt8VVrHx3Z-XFHtPYTxHFS1cxSvvJdxNEiLzaahVLSV03P7RZuMPt4oDfmdi_yZIcM9ZpDrX1cvGpWBWM42FWlUEAlYm2fSYmoamr2uCZBdZnvF6fx0WQSjx8nDwSH2aRvJN02ySuFmGN5ONhCLCL8yMJ2965xWTXs5_VlmLvA92JNhULqoUO69afGSNsYFR0fs96NfyF1HDrjsid5r5ROTX0xGsVHRl0xs7jPZvx67pfdvZzNIVKDVK_1gmAdsNfxQT2Tex2r9TgFtEyhqZVn4D6t048cSi8ufSDWjV9g4wLcvbpzf6uZFhW8u9BF8ylC7bqhT1WqUyhrxGImVpD-jlPvXdUYbMmVw5IhYoYC4v1t6lNUChxBU54GEcakDVzT5ikLPtCqvJAn31Z0D54_uXIU2m24gID787atiQe5xTu8QkCDCBduvw2e7JBBuqwphu5fcnIMX-qAMF9oglLnr4WIEaiVqtK8tEbOlBQiuWqyG4peJF1KPIS93cYUyq5SnQPM96wLrKsYwE55-mbyqjCKwMEluYzI0BqnzBbmuMZN33tzDI59MUzVA4vtdCnzO38U3a4asLogSOOHzrrm8hJKU7i5SS-9U9vkPu_j5tAKhhcAlzd28Mnw0bjp0YV2Esx=w696-h928-no

I had to heat the conduit to reach where I wanted to go inside. I really could not add anymore 90's, I was already at 360 degrees between pull boxes already. The electrical pull box enters into the circuit breaker box in the garage. By moving the low voltage pull box to the left, the conduit going up the wall is hidden in the hot water tank closet.

Y7PrPSGGtEamKDhXNHLx8pmGvJ0QZORq-NPBmKOqDCJmx3Sz3rWKNJkrS1clzWgB2Y3q46sX0vluhSdBTg7UcqpT_NNRQBYuoWGOzPdWICXqj3CkC2FeCsDGIJEjntmFA4eXq2Hpc6k-06p93LpXd6h6HFc_NkDmQkwrRLwDqzxkqNnGxG-mrI3JbDOMwUVxyxlUhtnebH96ISAeN7FRB5BKdEBBXDUX0SRnJc2xulVaw2RSL3f3W-sId995T-xG8uU8C34iuHtGYiFXUbJJr91btltCA7bUfivyOHnemNOrZT18ONKGwPFdIHEBblkYJmUbwTZe9wbeI1i9hremhd5SzNynjl6asM11SV6rYL-B_NKKYr5EgUUTUXxn4VBroxM9kkpcL3tRuKhxn0F2zTS29Lz9ZoU59KnrJsMKPFIt7e-pL3HkBePvScKJAPLxrNSmqeskQqGHKReNitl6w2OxsR0f2usItBrNXmnIymLpZstPJolBCHLo8bU6aEhQyvS1INKKIXOL-Zdx-aHx_nBAFeXHKY5VW7dupHxbzBUlZMvx9oCrwj1mUfYG4q6DW_Ds90Hxm-WXa1nKwEdbpOHQDgbz6Im94T1Fz19zDuah-vW21OIt7B61uHwiMzHqMF5G4YI4_zxIghMrohlEZmGrN3hLriGln3RGXkcg_TfQc4ORzPCPUFmg6r6HUvkzNYzl00YRyb9Tx08L_ROOoUO_=w696-h928-no

The final resting spot in the house is a cabinet a friend built. It's mounted in our walk-in closet, where the internet and alarm systems are.

First, was getting the pull string to a spot that is longer than my fish tape was long. Fortunately, I watched how the electrician did it. He tied a plastic bag and used a wet vac to pull it. The lesson I learned doing it myself, you want bag springy and just slightly larger than the conduit. Once I got it right, it was like a mouse running down a sewer.

qxSbgPFfcMS7_w1Tm0Jm7opeFekmGtWWNCO3YbQcGLWl-JxBajP8U0x5I54oJh7eeRcWpWasf6IMzIFa-ZojXBrA8F3atBkhhR1XcJz7FFgkFfVlaQN5JUoX0JwaLMtd-JnB1GuV9K6n5abEZHqzSK0m1N3GoNnYX17U99csix8HyPSfut-nuQ0ksN1JXtSb02l4a7eThw6BctWXSWUW_2fM1dEbZeO_ldOHqVPB88nXFx-KtyA9uK31B0rZ6dg4cqfdtVxdvLfihyeHkYm9ahW2brkXqR7r3ueg4tT5uuVIpkPk4WaqlygwXlKmUrLq_OnSXUwnDrxrrUfAxI57f371Cg3ROwZYMtvxvo0_zNhuDXghnVzMPYFgT2dYnZvwvd79cHS_eBDN1ACsEQkwFEnnaudmQ4jpNXO7gGxm8cStA5iW-KEZxty4L_jHKeZo7ZFQjeaQ4YRlNE6DJQmi0PjUWmYGf00mAq36fXYD4UxzmA2qFtRYlL7d5oyM30DqjQ-eiIIO4C3k-icpAnazP5X6JRj8js-HTNmqjALJGW8EH3jT1MJYUHFRA0wwBbRiTpUtUOsoU_twq2bQ3RU8LFxR7jXI-Uiszu1FTVJV6BVK06GPI6qCHMTYzfkieRsTnZFf-xRVd0USF_VIA6KuPeqM6FpiaoQYuxBs_l6wbD9f0x2vu_xRNPtlPcpidw4IdGV26ZlJovk_e0JWo5BxbIq8=w696-h928-no

Here it is finished off in the shop. Some may think 6 is overkill, 2 are for alarm sensors and entry panel. One for the Internet. One for IP camera. One for who knows what. And one for spare.

dXhChAF65FR94o8PN3OrxkjyJYWRssWIWnrRAiXB2G4e9vxku0_mKhUPOe1wxf6w3PBTr3lPMJnTmtAIjyDq0AfwbbZ9IBSe7u0P5aOGuLR4g8porZcJl2eJ2fVhU1ZQMXj7cN4E2Rd_Nlqb9G2RGcPcvnDNo_ZjhZLRBZCarirwiUvufPGmdzrSZVpYUqPeCepIam4aLnEBSws-OaWaoqiPno99dyCTqbdVW3Yb0eyU8TTlPfBQkkzGbJIlVcWLEZEgz8YfkkAg1s6YqJ5_qWTzijQvsxT2nOZS8jPifxidDPY4_nZbiyq6cYrZ0Y3IVDkiSApS3gTvyogIwizXOju_1CzQn7T9NeKAB0LPTl762YYM5TQ5iuPf6q1kOplNZDJxN4hYlloJX0eR0XtNvB5Luxhoy1k1-REI1Y1Ghhw3DZQuvHJu6c2NObj5AM-GVTkixuFTUsM__skyxKeEqgf1yqQjP_Hr0e_YOS51GFor-O3-jiIihJBCPBrz0U31VwBjnVtpQEYyAK8Mp0Qs3u7mG2k6UOiBSzxsAEIHh1Bu_fPtWF7CeyGsqyHbSF_ykIuYIGrsueFzuYI2Gmlqtj0QUC6mOVYCTSAMUso3Tk5d-Hue0Xs8vZ3KY0Xy_LCR22ECD12D48wui-pegDUUbeW2yTQz5IgItljCguumsUKdaDN9YnxWShSGfGT3Y_BzgV0cTKSfqsVIBaJ6nwTq92aw=w247-h928-no

Robey5 · Apr 6, 2018

Nobody should laugh at a weld that serves it's purpose, is hidden and holds a spoiler for a shop light: cool place you have there! Hello from Michigan.

niget2002 · May 17, 2018

You could probably get by with just one cat6 for the internet, ip camera, and whatever else... just put a network switch in the garage to plug everything into and run it all down the same cable back to the house.

I'd also recommend a separate wifi AP inside the garage. Metal kills wifi. Having a separate one in the garage will help your cell phone/tablet/whatever else work better.

penright · May 17, 2018

niget2002 said:
You could probably get by with just one cat6 for the internet, ip camera, and whatever else... just put a network switch in the garage to plug everything into and run it all down the same cable back to the house.

I will be using switches. The reason for so many wires, some will be used for alarm sensor. One wire will be for "internet". That one is like you said, just one back to the house.

I may use one or two with managed switches for cameras. The reason for manage is so I can bond two together for more bandwidth if needed. May not need it. Still thinking it all though.

Oh, and don't forget a spare.

niget2002 said:
I'd also recommend a separate wifi AP inside the garage. Metal kills wifi. Having a separate one in the garage will help your cell phone/tablet/whatever else work better.

Yes, without a doubt. And with the manage switches, I could get by with cheaper ones. Still researching.

Bottom line, had the conduit, wire not that expensive. Was able to get a good deal, $300 for all 6 little over 250 feet. Did fill the conduit.

With the manage switches, maybe someday I will wish I pull some fiber with it.

penright · May 29, 2018

I need to update the low voltage post. Some GJB brothers on another post held me accountable for the way the conduit was run. Actually, it did bother me. I have to be careful about being a perfectionist. My boss created a quote just for me, "Perfection is the enemy to completion". So when I posted my examples of bending PVC conduit, the reaction gave me the excuse for my OCD.

Cutting to the chase, here are the before and after...

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The conduit exiting the slab in the shop had an angle. I am afraid to try and move it. If it broke or kinked I would be in big trouble. The compressor sits in front of it anyway. So the conduit starts kind of weird, but it is the best I can do.

Also, the reason for the JB's, I used up all my 360 degrees with the conduit underground. I would like to bring the grade up a little on the house side to hide the horizontal conduit. That is why there is a pull box on each end.

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I had the wire pulled so I had to cut the conduit with the wire in it. I was really nervous about not nicking the wire. A cut off wheel might work, but I did not have air easily at the location. My solution was to rig up a cut-off, using one my air cut off wheels. Worked pretty good. Was careful and when got close enough just broke off the conduit and then cleaned it up when I could hold wires away from the side I was working on.

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One other thing I found interesting. It is the quality of LB's between an electrical supply house and Lowes. The electrical supply house did not have an LR. So here is a picture of the LB and LR. The LB has bosses for the screws and the gasket was a lot better.

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penright · Jun 12, 2018

Started making progress finally in the organization. As mentioned before the old house was two-car and it had two cars parked in it and even at that mine was outside. That is not to mention tools. I also had a 19 x 19 shed for storage. So when we moved and the shop was built, the plan was to use it for storage until I could get organized. I was not going to use any of the house garages for storage. I was not scraping ice anymore. So the new shop has 3 sections, storage, bay (#2) for project car and bay (#1) for short term car work. But the floors were full of cardboard boxes. They were my toolboxes? My organize bins were there so I would have to go through them to find screws and bolts. My fault, but it has taken longer than I imagine. At the scrap iron, someone had unloaded a bunch of C shape channel that I suspect was part of the railing of some pallet rack system. Did not have any legs, but I pictured just welding them. In the meantime I had a friend give me some nice metal shelves that have been outside for a while. They need a lot of cleaning, sanding, and painting. I stacked them in an unused flower bed at the back of the house. Also, I have a big pegboard closet that I made 4' deep, 8' wide, and 6' tall. One thing I did not like about it, when I made the door, it was one piece. That made it hard to open. So before I started loading it I wanted to glue a 2x4 and split the doors. Since the shelves were taking longer than expected, lots of sanding and painting, I needed to move the shelves from the flower bed. I threw up some temporary shelf, got some of the contents of the boxes going vertical. Plus got some of the tools hanging on the pegboard closet. Right now I have a path, but once I get some junk clear from it I will take some pictures to share.
I have found a use for all that C shape metal that I was going to use for shelves. It is about the same size and the C purlin and grits. So with a little modification, they work great for mounting points. So I welded a leg on the bottom for my tilt-bins to sit on. That way the screws in the back are not carrying the entire load. I need to find some plugs for the end of the legs. Here is what it looks like so far. I will include other pictures later.

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penright · Jan 4, 2019

Things have been moving slow. Life has been busy and really won't slow down till after February. I have a lot of lightweight items that are bulky. Ice chest, etc... In fact, the first picture is some of the stuff going up there. You can see them setting on my pegboard storage.
So I am building a shelf above the workbench. Before the engineers start freaking out, again bulky lightweight type items.

I really don't have the structure for hanging selves for any meaningful type items. I have things, for example, little table saw, that the body is plastic. The aforementioned ice chest. That takes up a lot of room but is not heavy. It kind of hard to show from pictures, but the front brace is welded back onto the pole. I did not weld on the truss, just made a clamp. The other end will sit on a girt. I will put a c-channel from the top girt to the middle girt and from the middle to the ground (Behind the rolling cabinet). So for the current hanging corner to drop it would either break the weld or bend the post. For it to rack left or right it would have to bend the truss and push/pull the girt. I could see the latter happening, the corner dropping down and bowing the girt/wall in.
200 pounds hanging on the end of the 2-foot lever did move it a little. I did attach it to the purlin, I did not want all the load on the truss bottom bar. The purlin is close enough to the truss that I don't see the purlin bending. There will be another 8 feet to the wall. That would be about 4'x10' or 40 square feet.

On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the roof is going to fall and pull the walls down with it, how much trouble am I in?
I know the pitch is not a lot and we do get some snow and ice, but I still think I am ok. I am thinking if I placard it at max weight 75 pounds and no more than 1.5 pounds per square foot, I should be in the 4 range of my scale.

Oh and try not to laugh too hard at my welding.

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penright · Jan 14, 2019

I finish my original plan. My original plan did not have a post on that hanging corner. I did not want to be in the way of floor space.
For the newly modified plan, I will put a post. My current thought is to pull it back even with the front of the workbench. May have to slide the bench a couple of inches. I will lose a couple of inches of floor/vertical space, but I sure something will find it's a way there. Then I might add a gusset from the post to the very edge. The metal is a c-channel and is lightweight and strong. I may make two and turn the channel C toward each other, to make a box. Still just thinking out loud. I really did not want to put any holes in my slab, but I may put a tab and small concrete screw just to keep the bottom from kicking out. Thought about putting a tab workbench high. The downside is moving the bench, you may not think it from the picture, but I do move it from time to time to clean the floor. To give an idea of how heavy the parts are, the top is not attached. I have never moved it while pulling on an object in the vise.

Still thinking about the shelf material. Right now I threw some masonite up there just to look at it. I also have some metal shelves that I could cut down. I even thought of 1/4" inch plywood. Depending on which way will depend on how much cross bracing under it. Just thinking of weight.

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penright · May 23, 2019

Had to stick a pin in the shelf above the workbench for now. I added some racks to store our folding chairs. Seems to work pretty good so far.
The other rack is storage I made last year.
Still, need to 3D print some caps for the leg supports.

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penright · May 23, 2019

One other detail that I needed to do is my networking cabinet.
I have 6 cat 6 wire pulled all the way back to my network cabinet in the house.

In previous photos, you can see I had the cat 5 into a box that I was planning on using it as a pull box. I was thinking about making a shelf for the routers to sit on. Then the alarm wires would be tied to one of them.
Work ordered a bunch of different sizes of networking cabinets for a project. This is one that was not needed and it was not worth the price to ship back, so they let me have it at 5 cents on the dollar. So I changed my mind. I mounted it on the end of the shelf, saving shelf space and floor space. So I put a 90 and ran the conduit just below the girt.

I argued with myself on where to place it. It might look better against the wall but would have been hard to reach. So I went with it on the edge. I replace the bent conduit in the first picture. You can see the new one in the second one. It was one that I tried to heat and bend at the house, it was scratched up and I tried to paint it. It just did not look good close up. I am getting better at heating and bending conduit. The jog to make it to the cabinet looks pretty good.

In the background, you can see my support post. I double it for looks, not because of strength. I was not too worried about the weight since that part of the shelf structure will be sitting on the floor and not suspended.

Now I think I can get back to finishing the shelf.

_CdcrCVsMqLWTSGs3VSHajwbMGQCPYdk7OQiN24j90AZtqECgwXRNmBdZmtfskLCJQCQ_KTyrwOHwr1cFq2BE27O5L6i_Nquka9J9i_VSam6iDABNDcMrcTd6rS3cj6k3SfEcYzqc-94yjzDRJip86H6MJHQKQtqzW5_u1W_rqset5lxJOtq5_sF_Gn-Cb1wb1IvRILh1ypUMprlh_HpaFSplb5s_3B89djnEOA8uVDAk2ceJelgbqPSFfqwjwWmOYonfx5_KEOriqgxpwb1InINFCjVzO2xDZJTwUy8pE_GuLSul4VTHw4CuBftrBcrA-Q1EdvScgRy5T2ksb1Q62ndLVd9h5wGAS4hIFY0j4rSScD4-xT2vfG-6qZkSKsUW-lr8dlgbLu3e46mWbbMgIGKJdjCYvvetBZV0SrcKATv3gDGG2bac08RBG12SFuezOUpVN-Fylx_CWjeBBC-OttzC57UABbVKwWYJiiIPxEc5Bql6coZTYSnhc6KXx1z251bZy4J8BihJRcoi7-fymvBGcls_B8gS4v_WaA-s9ntrloBmuAajxEShCUw2vcU5ZUxeGyVAXFBg0JYVvLVW4R2xM7JM19jHh2oBFsuzSgGvmcYtgkNVfRKqJd5xL7Gyd6XCv78UBoMWS7B6X3CS-RvYFeSGAYsoSxt2JwfErdaM8lkDzEmGefL333snq-_pCwZVR4uZ5VBmMkMxvKBDdBE=w1238-h928-no

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DetachedGarage · May 23, 2019

Loving this build thread! Can't wait for more! Well done!

penright · May 24, 2019

DetachedGarage said:
Loving this build thread! Can't wait for more! Well done!

Thanks for the kind words.

Definitely taking longer than I would like, but every project with an X is one step closer.

Unruh · May 24, 2019

Good work! I’m already thinking of a way to steal that spoiler idea.

penright · May 24, 2019

Unruh said:
Good work! I’m already thinking of a way to steal that spoiler idea.

Having own Grand Prix for years, I did think it was cool. Actually, it worked out really well, but now that I have the shelf above, I think I am going to add 2 lights under it. One for the bench and the other is for the drill press/grinder area. If I do that I will pull down the spoiler. If you were not so far I would sell it to you just for what I have in LEDs. I do like the brake light for when my compressor is on. If I do remove it, I am not sure what I will do to replace that indicator. It would change my original lighting plan.

With the shop divided into 3 areas (entry/storage, Work Bay, Project Bay), Each area head 3 sets of lights, front, middle, and back (left to right). The workbench is at the back of the 3rd (project) bay. I have two lights switches by the door. Switch(1) one would turn on the storage/front, storage/back, work bay/back, and the workbench (spoiler). The second switch(2) controls all the others. I wanted the workbench light by the door so when I flip off lights, it not like I am looking across the shop and see I forgot one. The shelf above the workbench will now hide some of that light. That is why I want to put some lights under it.
Now do I:
1) Leave spoiler lights and put a switch by the bench?
2) Pull the spoiler, and wire the below lights with switch(1). Then move the ceiling light to switch(2)?
Option 1 violates my desire for light control in one area. Option 2 would is not that hard. Where I have the spoiler mounted, I could run conduit up to the box for the under shelf lights. The same wire that supplies the brick for the LEDs could run up for the under shelf lights. Moving the ceiling light would not be hard either since I have both switches wires in the same conduit. Before I ran my first conduit It was suggested I use 3/4" and now I am glad I did. It has kept me from having wire fill issues.

I have some time to think about that subject. My next step is to make what I am calling the shelf webbing. As mention in earlier posts. The shelves I am using will not reach from the girt to the front of the frame. So I will add another bar 1-2.5 feet behind the front. The location for this will be determined by the size of the shelf. The location of that bar will determine the location of the mid floor post. So now there are two rows front to back of the shelf material, not sure how many rows left to right yet. Let's call these columns for the sake of discussion. So there will be a C channel for the edge. I think the shelf material bolted together does not need this side support, but when I was hanging on to the front bar doing chin-ups, the thin material that the C channel is made of and the long span, I could rotate the bar. In an up/down plan it would not bend. So I may attach some from girt to the middle bar and from the middle bar to the front bar. This would add stiffness, but more supported weight.

I am not sure :lol_hitti

, more pictures when I get there.

penright · Jun 10, 2019

To make room for the layout of the shelf above the workbench, I had this old metal desk for years. At the old house, it was in the shed, the new house was in the way. I wanted to make a welding table out of it. So I had a bright idea to knock it out real quick. The desk by itself was too low, so I need to add a frame to it. If I was going to do that, then why not have both my abrasive and dry cut saw under it.
Any story that starts with "I had a bright idea" you know where it is going.

Here is a shot with the desk and the cluttered spot in the background.

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The first step is to cut it down so not as wide. Later I just bolted the two halves together.

ZlBKevXTPf9Aiaid3zi4KpIhyghMe7goWxmygxUu79lCwaUVPNT9XEYFB6sD371oltQrJ9wICBBsJwDrPGyd0LsM-nNCWqF_0haaBqC3jRjZV7-1PPjkD09XkDJecVAqRM7vqgcqq8Dly_LSPXk7asahX9HUJHsMS6yWyAhBWsQa1Sw0f9XGlUtD4jVKzBMU9szP0HVkwoGoPqpEmrVn9Nj3yYuuObvqIFMScOLaXuS5upil6BeYyoYKSIjTq2fAbUwyhVukzdUNcuQoGRiAgOA78fhFRWYYjWUDxNzsuWJglox7DNjLqNo1oQfolnjbKf-RCziZE8s-Ijyq-citcRbnc9j8wShpRbi2WOqCu4g3SAuT1MVUUw-jnVvsgvUKKMbkgv09SdY799XkI9IyODBdu5qoGN7LJ2mtIn9_o2dh6hQDjgopztOiBkoG_HF95JXBuT-hTaXoczFXvrkU07BYt6yHq0JEr9DU-5O746L77m77J8MnprGJF_dgS6FIPFnlYoR3O-fAIkH9ibJztqw07jzfHs2_dSa_F7NFXt8teIu2Jyq1aCfSO5w4kfb__8BhuQrQj2xm-738vhOUnymp9ye2KIWJAjtGzaoapqbMlJ88doDMp7TbOKEznuFptTVvzgTbA0QLxEL5nvDofTIl886AUBv4pM99J1npFUve7uRjDEBD0OWnJqVNLkrutJIKRLa6A-L06ruTQLRJ5EQc=w696-h928-no

Then make the frame. There is where I started to see the issue. To have the frame high enough for the saws to fit, made the table too high. Oh well, I will sort that one out later. I just wanted just enough room for the saws to barely fit.

f5QIZAa3UjtLgmsxNH-dblOPsRuDFE7QwaWjT6srFvZfu3L3Y0noCJvqoDZPrAVlAusGbgST19gNiaZNTjqMOGKNESEqVnRaIX57s8fiMxVl_LYoxAneSxtOGgw6Lek9_8OLILKZ5B-Mncba-SsE66KjZXZCzkCZGlRkcRF3ZUnYmCECSCTF0pPn02124218JJ4TjOiIrjyY0uhYXfXyM0mTDADUTEM0mvcQzFS4bNVgiA_JpaCmMqn-9YPEf1rghPxlL_duHrVa1KM8jOtCYszSeM37ZcqB8WwI2dVP4B-SWuPW5ZwQZKKhbV63gD7zW-8dbw0-pJVZZBOcNRh1WGrMv0X1dznjYM1vb5Fm9owOzTH5FViexbHYzhFMETHf9K_s8wU0C6MqfcvH5WOLOnXmrA9V4sUYFSKPeBr9wZnyuU-SOFyt2lEQ_GkGsSQqyDpJwu5LuLJ-8QKFHVOIZRzlr2FLDtaKwDS783lCZhDeZxK68vQ4QZ_mvrHQeISuSZXZQs8GPRoE8TzNfKegax5vy_jxbMPRkupoZxqmyJjrTdLyUkVEW53I60aRCkSvY-W2Ju4lWy59bdml8LUIJnYS9_0OSKedsi55QqRuXqgL93HpZ0rngBrqzfDH0UDFuCkkJkBNzoAgUaXEoFoiGLLAoiwVHzc_-gc3pvd4U4rd82kWK9WTZ1LXKSskGsSEOPozFHUlTEQ6nqptyM_Tiepg=w1238-h928-no

Here it is sitting on the frame with the abrasive saw under it. Looks ok so far except for how high it starting to get.

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So as it sits for now.

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At least I now have more floor space, but there is a lot left to clean up.
One of the mistakes, I cut under space too close, I had to notch the upper rail to get the dry cut saw in. :lol_hitti

BG-fv_0yPZszZ1ZKnWkLXHXcCkfHQj_3B1oqKX2fkpOltBabwGWSk8KHdAH9TsO2JmpOpC6tOpThgQNcIbTp-S7jO3KhLfgprKF72MtdQg2cKiGN1fOnHFobMJSE7EKYH6QMHgUHVv069c9tvJ323sJTaR0oCV4x3zxSYzriYL-SNhpXwmV0RHMHTFULhndlQZEM5iFuwRGC2w5tg5j4mLYvUrifcma3Djbz3W9qKw2UCltIBoT-vabGWzdSCgV_sd3BtAGVMqMru_NdLJ_k5Vf6desrHX-49Hh7n2kfUKdS9hQBEEEu2gpmTDPbERF24aJCOk0gdTSK6iWT5TgWPEamMJ6gDst3S3WAGwlZnWjkEqdbL8mVp8Xy3vEikAKw2hPCzOBfRAPtGVJjq1e-ZCrDtZVbwOLGKjuCxAR9hG_sAxghtV_SQWvjoffAzP95AKg7iNU7es8yHG03PMPLvqnB6AN08ifAFnbabDwK8d9aI4dA9JZu8Dr0A4s8RPbJnGG66dJf_GlyS7Kij_dy-S6-41isR3vuk2pOroTTbwaoFc2rGAl0QxRu-SQFs8KZyrXrPYIiglWxMvAoQ53JKXDvL1gEkmEU5MMcc3r7pFUA4EoXU9DPr6MYoE5IxzfTfr-Cjw11wW0Fy-_nqqvDn2IJXomF1IvAFEWBa0WA93-J7G-FKpTsS8NQdrfqgEQBvkVk-adfbw0kkUJmPnFBKhzx=w879-h605-no

Of course, now that it is done, I planned it that way.

Actually, it is not too bad. For the frame, I used the C-channel I had. Even with the notch, hard to see in the picture, it did not go all the way. So there still is a U shape for the bridge. The weight is being carried straight down by the post, that is more just to keep it from racking. I can still box it in.
I will need to cut the desk down to just one drawer for height purposes. Also, the casters I put on it are not working well. Those will need to be changed. The last change will be adding a replaceable, stronger, and straighter top.

For now, I will stick a pin in it. I have the floor space to get back to my shelf.

Sureshot · Jul 11, 2019

Hello from Bridge Creek. I used to be on here a lot but life has been busy. I bought this place a year ago and have a 30x40 shop I'm trying to fit everything into, coming from a 42x60 with 24x24 addition. I downsized a lot and kept my faves and what was easy to move. I stopped in looking for automation and security cam ideas and stumbled onto your build. Nice looking shop.

Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT The Build Thread - Hello from SW Mustang, OK

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