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A "Small" shop for my tractor - 30x50x14 steel building

Ed2010

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Houston & Tenaha Texas
I was recently turned on to this forum because I'm getting ready to build a "small" shop behind our weekend home for my tractor and Ranger. What some of you are doing with/in your garages is nothing short of amazing. My aspirations aren't that great but they're growing

I started thinking about a 30x40x12, then added a 10x40 lean-to on each side, then took a step back and decided on a 30x50x14. That will give me enough room for the tractor, brush hog, Ranger, future zero-turn, future tractor implements, a bathroom, sink and table for processing meat, and an area for tinkering. The 14' height gives me the ability to build a loft for a bit of extra room.

The building will be a welded steel building with 4 trusses, one on each end and the other two 20' in with 10' between the centers. On the front side I'm putting in 2 12x12 roll-up doors, each just outside of the inner trusses. I'll put a man door between the two 12' doors, closer to the left one. On the opposite side of the building across from the right 12' door will be another 12x12 roll-up. Here is a sketch I made which also shows the ramps that will be poured with the slab.

2017-01-19 14.16.48-1.jpg

I called the builder and concrete guys today to let them know we're ready to move forward. Sounds like perfect timing, the concrete guy said he just had a job pushed back and can start the dirt work tomorrow. I'm looking forward to sharing the build and learning how to build my loft from other posters on this site. :thumbup:
 
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Ed2010

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We got to our farm this evening and the pad is taking shape. They're finishing up the long ramp and will install the plumbing and steel probably early next week. They're also pouring a 20x16 pad in front of our garage. I'll take pictures tomorrow. Looks like they dug one large root ball and several small ones out of the ground. We knew there was one and glad they found the others. We had a few acres mulched before the house was built and the mulched took all stumps down below ground level.


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cajunfirehawk

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Since your in TX I suggest Muller buildings if you have not already selected, look into their "off the shelf" kits, when you start changing up options it gets costly but the quality of my building was first rate. Slab costs more than the building kit, IMHO.
 
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Ed2010

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I priced them but there is a local builder who uses a local steel supply. He's building a welded steel building.


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Ed2010

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Still need to put in the plumbing lines and we increased the width of the big ramp to 10' so it won't be so steep. Should do the pour on Wednesday if everything goes ok Monday.
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Miner83

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This sure looks like it will be a great shop for your tractor. I am thinking about a 40x60 steal building so I can have a guest room for visitors along with a shop and garage space. Can I ask you what the foundation cost is? Plenty of steel building vendors but they all want a small fortune for the concrete work. I am thinking about contracting separate for each. Thanks!
 
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Ed2010

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This sure looks like it will be a great shop for your tractor. I am thinking about a 40x60 steal building so I can have a guest room for visitors along with a shop and garage space. Can I ask you what the foundation cost is? Plenty of steel building vendors but they all want a small fortune for the concrete work. I am thinking about contracting separate for each. Thanks!

Original quote was for a 30x50 slab with one 3x12 ramp and one 5x34 ramp with underground plumbing for a commode and sink. Concrete was $8,800, dirt work was 1300 which included 3 loads of dirt.

Is that a metal kit or are you putting it all together based off your plans?

This will be a welded building based off of how I wanted it built.
 
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Ed2010

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A "Small" shop for my tractor - 30x50x14 steel building

Foundation is done. Nothing like a cloudy day and a little misting rain the day after a pour.

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Ed2010

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Erection began yesterday. I'm talking to the builder about installing channel and beams for the loft while he's building it instead of going with wood posts and laminated beams later. I'll make that decision once he gives me the price but it sure seems like that would be the easiest route.

bldg1.jpg

bldg2.jpg
 
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Ed2010

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They'll add beams for the loft next week as they are building it. Around $1,200 and it will be ready to add floor joists and a floor once complete.
 

FearTheH

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Roanoke VA
Looking forward to seeing this come together. I'm getting ready to start the exact same project and was actually wondering the best way to incorporate a loft/upstairs in one portion of the building. Looking great so far!
 
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Ed2010

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Today's progress. Looks like a walk through door most of the purlins. If you can't be there to watch the build and don't have internet for a webcam, a cellular trail cam is the next best thing.

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Ed2010

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Beams for the loft are up. If the weather holds up it'll be finished this week.
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Ed2010

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Love the loft. I want one



I was going to build one later but glad the concrete guy suggested I talk to the builder. He's going to weld tabs onto the beam away from the wall so I can run a 2x6 on top of and parallel to the beam and screw it in through the tabs. Then I can use 2x6 floor joists across the beams on 16" centers and put spacers on the other end. Still haven't decided on the stairs yet.


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Ed2010

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Our shop was completed today, well except for the bathroom, loft, stairs, electrical, septic line...

These are pictures from my trail cameras. Inside pictures will have to wait until I can get back up to the farm.

File Feb 28, 8 18 52 PM.jpg

File Feb 28, 8 18 36 PM.jpg

File Feb 28, 8 19 20 PM.jpg
 
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Ed2010

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It's going to be a low ceiling on the sides. Any idea what the strongest low profile floor joists would be? Any way to build them inside of the beams? Probably just dreaming....I'm thinking I'll end up with 2x6 southern pine joists which will hold up anything I'll ever put up there and just duck when I go up the stairs. Not planning on anything too heavy. Probably some chairs, a couch, half-dozen grandkids, etc...
 

readhead

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Bolt a 2x plate to the top of the beam. Use top flange joist hangers to place the joists between the beams. Good looking building.
 
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Ed2010

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I finally built the floor for the loft. I ended up notching 2x10's on each end and putting them between the two I-beams on 16" centers & used 2x8' boards on each end for bracing between the 2x10's. We have decided to make a bunk room underneath the loft and adding an 8' x 10' "room" in addition to what is under the loft. The stairs will be in front of the "room" going up to the loft. I'm going to use 2x8"'s to span the 10', one end connected to the I-beams, and the other end connected to a wall.

Does anyone know if a wall built out ofstandard 2x4 studs on 16" centers will support a the joists for a live load of 70 psf?
 
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Ed2010

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BUNKHOUSE.JPG


My wife wants the stairs open into the bunk room which means I'd have to support the ceiling/floor of the loft from the I-beam and the new wall of the 10x12 room. The stairs themselves will be tied into the I-beam and made to be freestanding with no support posts.
 

cajunfirehawk

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What's with the pink wood?
AFAIK standard int. wall studs for framing...?
Found on the web...

pinks are precut studs. the color keeps them separated from the regular 8 footers. Precuts are 92 5/8". They are usually a lower grade material, since wall studs aren't usually exposed.
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