Maintenance on a Champion Porta-Champ Compressor, self draining for the past 6 years?

I have a Porta Champ air compressor made by Champion. The tank size is between 20-25gallons. I got it used back in April 2011 for cheap. It has been running great.



I've been a bad GJ'r and I've been neglecting any maintenance on it, and given the fact that I got some new impact swivel adapters and sockets, I thought it might be best to give it a once over. I have the shutoff on the compressor come on at about 130psi

I haven't opened the drain in 6 yrs. Granted, the compressor doesn't get much use. airing up bicycle tires for the family, impact use for changing winters to all seasons on 2 vehicles, impact use on various maintenance repairs on our vehicles and the occasional brad nailer use on wood working projects.

There was a small puddle on the bare concrete underneath the drain valve on the bottom of the tank. Nothing bigger than 3"x3". This was before I opened the valve.

The tank had about 100psi in it and I cracked open the valve a few turns. I had a shallow plastic container under the valve, and just a few drops of water, and oiliness on my fingers. My guess is less than 1/2 teaspoonful of condensate...

I wonder if having the drain valve not completely sealed (finger tight) is a good way to have a self draining compressor for someone like me who doesn't use it regularly.... Over the past 6 yrs of my ownership, If I forget to turn it off, it might cycle once per day due to leakage.

Next up, find some synthetic compressor oil and do an oil change on it. Is the following the correct procedure?

- Drain and fill to 1/2 way up the sight glass.
- Run it for a couple minutes, and then shut it off
- wait a minute and check the oil again in the sight glass? 1/2 way should be good?

That would work. There are a number of cheap self-draining methods. Like you said leaving the drain **** cracked works. I have seen a ball valve partly closed as a self-drain. A better solution would be a needle valve for fine adjustment of drain air. All of these methods force dirty, rusty condensate through a tiny orifice and will get clogged. So I would recommend cleaning it every 6 months.

Oil change procedure looks good.

I have acquired a similar unit, but single cylinder. Interestingly enough it does not have a drain on the tank? I do have it hooked to a separate FRL (filter regulator oiler). Just changed the oil for the first time. When running, it was too hot to touch the actual compressor. With no manual, opted to go with synthetic compressor oil. Now it only gets warm to the touch. Unfortunately no sight glass or dip stick. So just filled it to overflow?