Sealing against metal walls

nonhog · May 5, 2009

So my shop has metal on some walls and I want to seal the air gaps.
I have added flashing under the siding which helps, should keep the mice out
however still allows air (heat-cold) in and out.
I have seen foam shaped like the siding that you place in the voids.
The only problem is it was kinda spendy once you add up 30 feet here and forty feet there upper and lower.
I have thought about spray foam for the gaps to seal it up but in so many places it would just flow right out w/o the foam seal dropped in 1st.
Seems there has got to be a better way. Am I missing something ?

rsanter · May 5, 2009

I have seen the spray on foam applied wher it gets sprayed on the surface and expands out from there. seems like it would work got you

bob

metalTobman · May 5, 2009

The material you need is called 'closure strip' and it is not really that expensive if you can source it from a wholesaler. Be sure to know the details of your sheets, such as the profile. Apart from that, you can certainly use the spray foam, just remember how much it likes to expand, make sure it does'nt deform the metal sheets. I have used the spray foam to fill gaps in my metal building, and just cut off the bulgy parts. Oh, and that stuff does not do well in sunlight, I always make sure to flash any exposed spray foam with metal.
Tob.

nadogail · May 5, 2009

There are lots of ways to address your concern
Amoung them:
1, Stuff Foam Backer Rod in the gaps and foam or caulk over that.
Backer Rod is inexpensive, I buy mine at Home Depot. This is my preferred method.
2, Treat rags with caulk or paint and stuff them into the gaps, this method dates back to log cabin building.
3, Tape over the gaps to stop the foam from running out, foam the gaps, then remove the tape after the foam sets up. I have not used this method

rehobson · May 5, 2009

I have some you could have, if I knew how to get iy to you. I live in southern Indiana.

Spike

FunfDreisig · May 6, 2009

metalTobman said:
The material you need is called 'closure strip' and it is not really that expensive if you can source it from a wholesaler. Be sure to know the details of your sheets, such as the profile......

I agree.

"Closure strips" are made specifically for this job. They fit exactly and are quick / easy to apply. BUT they are meant to be installed between the metal and the bearing surface (e.g. purlin) "under" a row of fasteners. This squeezes them to create a tight fit. Retrofitting them may make them less handy.

FWIW they come in "inner" and "outer" shapes that are mirror images. So make sure yoou the get the ones you want

Funf Dreisig

Palmetto · May 6, 2009

There are 2 kinds of closure strips, inside & outside. One is meant to go on the top of the sheet where it mates to some kind of flashing, and the other goes underneath the sheet where it fastens to your purlin. Also, closure strips are meant to be laid down before you fasten the sheet down. So you would have to unscrew your tin, install closure strip, and then refasten. If you just try to cut out the humps, and stick them in there, the will probably end up falling out.

I suggest the spray foam.

metalTobman · May 6, 2009

I forgot there was inside and outside closure strip, and here I thought that I was an expert (expert: x is an unknown quantity, spurt is a drip under pressure) The spray foam is a really good idea.
Tob.

nonhog · May 6, 2009

Thanks everybody for the ideas and comments. So far I am still trying to get prices local. Found this on the web but they don't retail.

http://www.sealtite.com/closure-strips.htm

Hope this helps anyone thinking about having someone else build a metal building. My builder did not mention these. He did say the price does not include insulation. Fair enough but foolishly I thought it would be ready to insulate. NOT !

Palmetto · May 6, 2009

I bought all my components from Mueller. It looks like Mueller gets thier closures from Atlas. Check it out.....

http://www.muellerinc.com/roofing/access.php

http://www.atlasfasteners.com/closure.htm

http://www.atlasfasteners.com/contacts.htm

Tman · May 6, 2009

I used closure strips UNDER a 1x4 trim board. Works great.

nonhog · May 7, 2009

Went to a local hardware store(one that I usually like not a big box store).
The first guy had no clue what I was after. I showed my brand and shape of metal, they had a diplay there. He refered me to another guy and I was thinking, good an older guy. Well he searched his books but the whole time he seemed unsure. I did press the issue a bit and walked out with a item #.
I did not order anything since as I have yet to determine the amount I need.
I think I will contact the metal co. and confirm item # before I order :thumbup:

Palmetto · May 7, 2009

The strips are usually as long as the tin is wide (36" for my R-Panel.) So its takes one closure strip per piece of tin.

FunfDreisig · May 7, 2009

nonhog said:
Went to a local hardware store(one that I usually like not a big box store)....

FWIW unless I was in an all fired hurry, I would order my closure strips from the same company that made the metal panels. They are pretty inexpensive and certainly not heavy to ship.

Funf Dreisig

nonhog · May 8, 2009

Palmetto said:
The strips are usually as long as the tin is wide (36" for my R-Panel.) So its takes one closure strip per piece of tin.

Thats what they said at the hardware store also.

FunfDreisig said:
FWIW unless I was in an all fired hurry, I would order my closure strips from the same company that made the metal panels. They are pretty inexpensive and certainly not heavy to ship.

Funf Dreisig

Actually I went to that store partly due to they are close as well as they were one of the retailers my metal supplier said could get it for me.
The metal co. did not want to sell direct.

A pic of my wall, not sure you can tell but the flashing (mouse guard) almost looks as if its still wide open but its not. That little sliver of light is all thats open.

Sealing against metal walls

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