best way to make existing shed walls taller 6' to 8'

SheThinksImCrazy · Aug 7, 2017

I have an existing 10 x 12 shed on concrete pad with 6'3" walls.....the shed needs new sheeting on the exterior walls, since the old particle board walls are in rough shape. ...I want to make the walls 8' and sheet the shed with 4' x 8' panels of the engineered siding from Lowes....what's the best way to accomplish this. .....

tjdux · Aug 7, 2017

Make small framed walls to sit on the top plate. Leave the roof solid but remove it's connection to the top plate, jack it up, insert and secure new small walls (i think they call them jack walls reinstall the roof.

It maybe better/easier to jack the whole building and install the small jack walls at the bottom as well. Im not an expert but thats the general way to do it, remove top add small wall or pick up everything and put the wall on the bottom. Im sure there will be opinions both ways.

As far as jacking, cheap bottle jacks or basement jacks will work fine for this little building. Obviously there is some inherent danger involved when moving something big enough to cause injury or death so be careful and pay attention.

Good luck

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6768rogues · Aug 7, 2017

If you do put a small wall under or over an existing wall, anchor the two together well as it creates a hinge point. Continuous sheathing will help. It is a shed, so it will not matter. Never create a hinge point on a house wall.

ford fanatic · Aug 7, 2017

Knee walls on top would probably be the easiest.

captain14 · Aug 7, 2017

A member just raised his roof and wallls and did a thread On it. I can't think of his name now but he's in the New England area and it's a small building 9x12?.

The Cobbler · Aug 7, 2017

I would add knee walls to the bottom. that way you leave the roof untouched and less to take apart
jacking the entire structure will be easier than messing with unfastening the roof trusses
I would sister some full lenght 2x4's on each wall to help stabilize the "hinge effect "say 2 on the 10' and 3 on the 12' walls

rsanter · Aug 7, 2017

What way to go depends on how the structure was built.
How about some pix

theoldwizard1 · Aug 7, 2017

The Cobbler said:
I would add knee walls to the bottom. that way you leave the roof untouched and less to take apart
jacking the entire structure will be easier than messing with unfastening the roof trusses
I would sister some full lenght 2x4's on each wall to help stabilize the "hinge effect "say 2 on the 10' and 3 on the 12' walls

CONCUR ! Especially with cutting the old bottom plate and running a couple of full length studs, sistered to the original ones, from the new the new bottom plate to the old top plate. Make sure to use PT for the new bottom plate.

Squashfest81 · Aug 7, 2017

I'm that dude that just did this to my Almost 10 by Almost 15.
1. Heavily screwed 2x6s to all studs on the front and back wall. Also ran pieces for the side walls that sat on those 2x6s. These were to stabilize the walls and to give the jack something to lift.
2. I cut the wall studs free of the base plate.
3. Jacked up 18" and use cribbing as you go.
4. Sistered all wall studs.
Overall it wasn't that big of a deal, especially if you are already residing. Just go slow and keep it level.
Check out my link, but I have yet to fix the pics from the Photo douche debacle.
PM me if you want more specifics or pics.

ford fanatic · Aug 7, 2017

The Cobbler said:
I would add knee walls to the bottom. that way you leave the roof untouched and less to take apart
jacking the entire structure will be easier than messing with unfastening the roof trusses
I would sister some full lenght 2x4's on each wall to help stabilize the "hinge effect "say 2 on the 10' and 3 on the 12' walls

He's tearing off the sheathing anyway, so cutting just below the top plate and just lifting the roof sounds easier. But that's just my opinion. :beer:

Reese · Aug 7, 2017

I would make the new walls just under 8 foot tall, that way the 8 foot siding laps over the base of the shed a few inches and adds some stability.

Tennessee Cattleman · Aug 8, 2017

Might want to do the math on cost & time comparing raising the ceiling or replacing the shed.

FullRaceMerc · Aug 8, 2017

If you are changing the siding, how about cutting the studs in the middle & sistering new full length studs along side of them? It would eliminate the hinge point.

Squashfest81 · Aug 8, 2017

If you are doing siding anyway. Jack it up and sister the studs. It will surprise you how quick it goes and cost under $100 for studs.
The extra height is so worth it.

Hot Rod Grampa · Aug 8, 2017

While it might be easier to tear down and start from scratch there may be zoning issues and repair is better. My vote is for lifting the entire building. Clean up rottted wood on the ground, put down some solid concrete cap blocks and build from there. If you plan on a floor then start with a rim joist, hangers and floor joists. Pressure treated of course. Add flooring of preference, sill plate and start sistering the studs. Might get away with pre cut. That way your top plate would end up level as well. Then tear off siding one section at a time and replace. Take time to ge t walls as plumb as possible. Will save work later on. Just thinking out loud.

best way to make existing shed walls taller 6' to 8'

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