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Better blast cabinet lighting.

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alan camby

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Any ideas on better blast cabinet lighting?
Spent several hours looking and can't find what i really want.

Want fixtures that don't get in the way.

Most of the homeowner style USA cabinets have the common outdoor fixture inside that accepts a par 38 flood light. I am always bumping the bulb and it just hangs down to low.

I really want can lights for par 38 bulbs.
This way i will have 100% of the interior of the cabinet for blasting without a bulb hanging down.

Don't really like the led puck lights. TP has a new magnetic stick on led. All take up cabinet space.

Wish someone made a HD sealed can light. This would still allow the use of the par38 glass as the only sheild of bulb and the bulbs are cheap and you get a new glass each time.

Any ideas for adding light and gaining space at the same time? I see some manufactures mount a fluorescent tube fixture above the cabinet.
There is a large rectangular hole cut on top with a protective glass. I kinda like this but it is just another glass to maintain or change mylar stickers on.

Thanks for any light on the subject.


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alan camby

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I guess a guy could use a old coffee can as a can light but that is not my style.

Thought maybe one of those round stainless food service, flanged pans.
I see them at places like Qdboa to keep the food warm. They have a flange that could be drilled and mounted upside down to the outside of a circle cut in the cabinet.
Mount a cheap porcelain fixture inside and put a square j box on top of the upside down pan.
Idk.

Would prefer a off the shelf fixture.

Most can lights are not finished on the part that would usually be in a ceiling.



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RVDan

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I bought a bunch of these when they were on sale
20161019_120233.jpg
 
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Omaha Flash

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alan camby said:
Any ideas on better blast cabinet lighting?
Spent several hours looking and can't find what i really want.

Want fixtures that don't get in the way.

Most of the homeowner style USA cabinets have the common outdoor fixture inside that accepts a par 38 flood light. I am always bumping the bulb and it just hangs down to low.

I really want can lights for par 38 bulbs.
This way i will have 100% of the interior of the cabinet for blasting without a bulb hanging down.

Don't really like the led puck lights. TP has a new magnetic stick on led. All take up cabinet space.


Wish someone made a HD sealed can light. This would still allow the use of the par38 glass as the only sheild of bulb and the bulbs are cheap and you get a new glass each time.

Any ideas for adding light and gaining space at the same time? I see some manufactures mount a fluorescent tube fixture above the cabinet.
There is a large rectangular hole cut on top with a protective glass. I kinda like this but it is just another glass to maintain or change mylar stickers on.

Thanks for any light on the subject.


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Click to expand...
I am also looking for a good light for my blast cabinet. the fluorescent lighting I have just isn't doing the job. I'm thing of trying an led tube style light if I can find one that will fit into my cabinet.
 
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peter2772000

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That's an awesome idea. I wonder if they'll lose brilliance after the clear surface starts becoming opaque due the sand blasting around it.

Then again, these lights are dirt cheap now. Replace when necessary and all would be good.
 
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alan camby

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peter2772000 said:
That's an awesome idea. I wonder if they'll lose brilliance after the clear surface starts becoming opaque due the sand blasting around it.

Then again, these lights are dirt cheap now. Replace when necessary and all would be good.
Click to expand...
Peter,
I have used the factory provided par 38 fixture and bulbs for about 10 years.
Some days i spend over an hour at the cabinet. I had a bulb in the fixture for over a year and just recently changed it since i was wondering if the frosted, sanded, surface was restricting light. Changed to a new bulb and honestly can't tell a difference in the light. They really do hold up well to the brutal environment.

Only thing i hate is that the bulb hangs down 8" or so. I bump it all the time. Somehow i have never broke a par 38.

Now i have tried a A19 bulb before. They last about 30 sec. Lol. You get a light as bright as the sun for a millisecond, when the filament gets a taste of oxygen. Then it is done. The glass is just to thin.

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alan camby

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ratdoggy said:
I stuck a cheap LED strip light in mine..Going strong for a couple years now
Click to expand...
Cool.
I am really weird and want something that is 100% reliable or quickly changed like the par 38 bulb. I am worried the media will take its toll on the led fixture.

TP has a new LED strip light but there is nothing to keep the clear plastic from frosting.

I have thought about getting a stick of clear pvc and sliding a led down the pipe. Once again the pvc will eventually frost over and i will be working on it again.



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Showkey

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After years of blasting and high maintenance on any light or light source in the cabinet itself.............I switched to lighting from the outside in. Placed a clear lens on the far end of the cabinet and placed a spot outside shining in. On the operator’s vieweing window placed a LED battery spot light on the window itself shining in.

Any lights inside will get destroyed over time tried the stock light, florescencent tube, pucks lights , cover bulbs etc etc


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larry4406

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Can you adapt the head off one of these to the corners to replace the PAR38?

500W quartz with glass cover and safety cage I would think would make it as bright as the sun.
 

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alan camby

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alan camby

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Scott H in Wheaton said:
I cut a window in the top of my cabinet, covered it with glass, and laid a 2 tube 48” shop light across the top
Click to expand...
Does the setup have many hours on it?

I wonder how much the etching of the glass will affect light transfer over time?

Seems like i get 5 hours out of a mylar protective sheet before i can no longer see in front viewing glass well enough.

I am sure light would still transfer at 5 hour point. Wonder if a time will come that the window would need replaced due to the etching? Or will the translucent etched glass always pass enough light?





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alan camby

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Scott H in Wheaton said:
I cut a window in the top of my cabinet, covered it with glass, and laid a 2 tube 48” shop light across the top
Click to expand...
I would worry about cutting a close to 48" window out. I would be a little concerned with affecting structural integrity of cabinet at some point.
Guess every cabinet is constructed differently

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isb cornbinder

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Scott H in Wheaton

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alan camby said:
I would worry about cutting a close to 48" window out. I would be a little concerned with affecting structural integrity of cabinet at some point.
Guess every cabinet is constructed differently

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Click to expand...

I think the window was like 12" x36"...didn't seem to bother the cabinet at all. Its not a car chassis, its just a box to keep the sand from getting out.

Since it was the top of the cabinet and the nozzle is usually pointing down or sideways, it never got a direct blast, just a bit of ricochet
 
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dkmc

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After watching a vid on Youtube, I totally believe this is the way to go

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6x-Super-B...ash=item3d4ca9a534:g:E7UAAOSwmkpZ745E&vxp=mtr

6 of the light strips for under $10
They are super bright, and just 2 of them light up a medium size cabinet like
daylight. You can tape them to the OUTSIDE of the cabinet window, or stick them inside the cabinet.....for the price, just get more when they fail.
Use a 12V wall wart to power them. Low power, and relatively little heat generated.

Here is the Video
 
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lis2323

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I wasted time adding inexpensive "sand blast cabinet" tube lighting from Princess Auto. It was ineffective no matter where or how I positioned it. Ended up doing what I KNEW I should do in the first place.

Purchased a second OEM light for my Skat Blast cabinet from TP Tools. Not so cheap with $ exchange, shipping and taxes into Canada, but DONE.



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Terry
 

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E.Marquez

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alan camby said:
Any ideas on better blast cabinet lighting?
Spent several hours looking and can't find what i really want.
Click to expand...

I added two 65 watt LED lights in the top of my cabinet . Put a throw hole in the top, mounted the bulb socket outside, sealed it to the cabinet top. The light bulb screws in from inside and only lowers the head room 3 inches.

I used two cheap bread loaf pans as covers from the exposed bulb sockets and wiring, silicone sealing them to the cabinet. mounted an external light switch box to the cabinet, and ran a cord from it to the same outlet that powers the cabinet vacuum.
Whole thing cost me about $25. Bought a twin pack of EcoSmart
65-Watt Equivalent Soft White BR30 at Home Depot for like $6 on sale, and two ceramic sockets that were a two piece deal, ring and body that clamped the cabinet sheet metal between them for about $4 a piece.

If those lights ever die I'll do something like Cree 100W Equivalent Daylight (5000K) BR30 Dimmable LED Light Bulb, just to see if I can get even more light, though don't have the need to do it now..this set up works fine and HUGELY better than the LED strip lighting I did have
 
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alan camby

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lis2323 said:
I wasted time adding inexpensive "sand blast cabinet" tube lighting from Princess Auto. It was ineffective no matter where or how I positioned it. Ended up doing what I KNEW I should do in the first place.

Purchased a second OEM light for my Skat Blast cabinet from TP Tools. Not so cheap with $ exchange, shipping and taxes into Canada, but DONE.



f5e663e7ddbc4f0eaa193a2694b82ecc.jpg

Terry
Click to expand...
Those are the lights i have currently.
They have decent light and they hold up to the abrasive.
They just hang down is what i dislike.
Sometimes parts are tight in the cabinet and i bump the light all the time.

This is why i want the stock style par 38 in a can light. Just could not find a can light that is hd enough. All are plastic or thin aluminum. Top, which would stick out, are designed to be up in a ceiling and are nkt finished.

You can get those TP style fixtures at Home Depot, lowes, Menards for about $1.99 each.

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alan camby

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Falcon67 said:
EDIT - found:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OH4XVG0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

LED under cab, double sided tape, run the power wire out through a bushing, stick the switch to the side - done.
Click to expand...
900 lumens is not very much in the fog of war on rust. I saw several of these at tje home improvement stores and they were not all that bright.

I worry about the long term effects on the plastic inside the cabinet.

I will probably go with some sort of window light if i can't find what i want in Par38

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lis2323

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alan camby said:
Those are the lights i have currently.
They have decent light and they hold up to the abrasive.
They just hang down is what i dislike.
Sometimes parts are tight in the cabinet and i bump the light all the time.

This is why i want the stock style par 38 in a can light. Just could not find a can light that is hd enough. All are plastic or thin aluminum. Top, which would stick out, are designed to be up in a ceiling and are nkt finished.

You can get those TP style fixtures at Home Depot, lowes, Menards for about $1.99 each.

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Click to expand...



I paid twice the Home Depot price, but it was still cheaper buying the complete plug and play than getting the associated fittings.
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engineer2

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I like the strip light idea. At least you can mount them inside a fluorescent tube protector and just replace it when it gets too blasted.
60078_731f9aedb2dd9815e9900154ba4b3d551ca78c6a_original.jpg
 
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alan camby

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lis2323 said:
I paid twice the Home Depot price, but it was still cheaper buying the complete plug and play than getting the associated fittings.
fb538793c8abef21ecc23a565ff676a1.jpg

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What model is your cabinet and are you happy with it? Regrets for other model?
I am a little concerned that most homeowner Scats are 18gauge cabinet steel.
Cyclone is 16 gauge.
The top of the line Scats are 14 gauge but the price is over double. 4k plus after shipping.

I would not recomend Cyclone. Mine has been converted to **** gun and pickup tube.

I have a Cyclone 2436 (24"x36")but want to buy a new TP976. 28"x56" extra high.


Tired of the small space. Thought it was huge 10 years ago but now seems to get smaller by the day. Want to make the Cylcone a dedicated glass bead cabinet and use coal slag in larger cabinet.

Thanks

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BillK

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alan camby said:
Now i have tried a A19 bulb before. They last about 30 sec. Lol.
Click to expand...

Your not supposed to blast the bulb LOL. I have used A-19 75W drop light bulbs in mine for 25 years. They typically last a year or more. One burnt out a few weeks ago and I replaced it with an LED bulb. Big difference in light.
 
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alan camby

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BillK said:
Your not supposed to blast the bulb LOL. I have used A-19 75W drop light bulbs in mine for 25 years. They typically last a year or more. One burnt out a few weeks ago and I replaced it with an LED bulb. Big difference in light.
Click to expand...
What media you use?

I can't get 30 seconds out of a A19 houshold bulb.

I was in a bind once and went through a bunch before decidimg what i was doimg was dumb.

Does anyone actually try and blast the bulb or viewing glass? That always comes up in these threads.

I am using coal slag for abrasive.

Thanks


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lis2323

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alan camby: I have the Model 970. (11 gauge steel door/18 gauge steel body).

No regrets . That $1700 price translates into close to $3500 CDN with exchange, shipping , and taxes into Canada. More if you don't broker it yourself when it crosses the border.
 
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alan camby

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lis2323 said:
alan camby: I have the Model 970. (11 gauge steel door/18 gauge steel body).

No regrets . That $1700 price translates into close to $3500 CDN with exchange, shipping , and taxes into Canada. More if you don't broker it yourself when it crosses the border.
Click to expand...
Wow.
I can get the 976 for $1900 with free shipping to Indiana.

I have been watching craigslist and fb marketplace. If something does not come up before end of year i will pull trigger.
Free shipping for zone 1, which i am in, goes away at end of year.
Price will go up $400

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Falcon67

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alan camby said:
900 lumens is not very much in the fog of war on rust. I saw several of these at tje home improvement stores and they were not all that bright.

I worry about the long term effects on the plastic inside the cabinet.

I will probably go with some sort of window light if i can't find what i want in Par38

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Click to expand...

Looks plenty bright to me, 1000% improvement. For $24 I don't really care about "long life" and I don't use the cabinet every single day, just once in a while. I just blasted off an intake and didn't have any trouble seeing in the cloud of glass beads.
 
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cybrdyke

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LED strip lights are tiny, about 1" x 1" and 4' long. They are frosted lens. They are cheap and bright.
When the blaster or the dust finally kills them, they unplug, snap out, and snap back in a new one.
You can get LED tape with a heavy silicone covering over the LED's to protect them from the dust and blaster. You could mount them around the entire top of the cabinet.
LED "canless" can lights can be mounted in the top of the cabinet. They are brighter than a PAR38, frosted lens, less than 1" thick and come in several sizes. But they are not made for this type of use and I'm not sure how durable they'd be against the dust and blaster.
All 3 are workable solutions.
Good luck,
CD
 
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bsg

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Imlay City, MI
I just purchased a new Trinco sandblaster for work.

I chose the extra bright lighting option because the cabinet we were replacing, the lighting was very poor!

The lights in the new cabinet are corncob style LED’s. I’m going to convert my cabinet at home to the same configuration, there are no shadows in the cabinet!
Well worth the money IMHO........
I can tell you I replaced a cabinet that had twin flood lights in the cabinet and it was poor to say the least.......my Trinco cabinet at home has twin fluorescent bulbs and it is good but no where as bright as the LED’s!

Hope this helps?

Kevin
 
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