Any mods/updgrades needed on HF 56" box?

JD3020 · Nov 24, 2017

Finally pissed off enough by working out of a tiny 39" Craftsman box i've had for 11 years(got it when i was 12) i decided to buy a new box. Checked out some Snap-on's at my neighbor who's a dealer but can't bring myself to spend that much on a box, or even $1600-2k for a used one. After going back and forth on all the Chinese boxes i settled on the HF 56", going to pick one up tomorrow morning. But before i load it down with tools and shove it in the corner is there anything i need to do to stiffen up drawers or the frame? Very possible the box will be getting moved around from shop to shop, but once its parked in a shop it won't actually be getting rolled around.

Also, has anybody found a good way to add a power strip in the bottom drawer like all the tool truck power drawers? That was one feature that almost made the $$$ boxes worth it. I've got a mess of M12/M18 batteries and tools, Snap-On Solus, plus some small shop lights and it'd be awesome to have them all charging in a drawer.

radio2000 · Nov 24, 2017

JD3020 said:
Finally pissed off enough by working out of a tiny 39" Craftsman box i've had for 11 years(got it when i was 12) i decided to buy a new box. Checked out some Snap-on's at my neighbor who's a dealer but can't bring myself to spend that much on a box, or even $1600-2k for a used one. After going back and forth on all the Chinese boxes i settled on the HF 56", going to pick one up tomorrow morning. But before i load it down with tools and shove it in the corner is there anything i need to do to stiffen up drawers or the frame? Very possible the box will be getting moved around from shop to shop, but once its parked in a shop it won't actually be getting rolled around.

Also, has anybody found a good way to add a power strip in the bottom drawer like all the tool truck power drawers? That was one feature that almost made the $$$ boxes worth it. I've got a mess of M12/M18 batteries and tools, Snap-On Solus, plus some small shop lights and it'd be awesome to have them all charging in a drawer.

Interested to see the advice here.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Air21 · Nov 24, 2017

HERE is probably the best thread on the subject. But if it were me I'd build a battery charging bank onto one end of the box so they aren't all cooped up making heat in a small space.

That's my favorite HF box though, if I wasn't pushing mine around from machine to machine all day it's what I'd buy.

I'd probably also put swivel casters on all four corners and fixed ones in the middle to spread the load out and tighten up the turning radius... But then again I do move my box a dozen times a day

LXCam · Nov 24, 2017

There's no upgrades needed, the box is plenty strong enough as is. I used mine for a couple years without issue or complaint and the only reason I walked away was the need for more space. As for a power drawer set up, there no reason you can't mimic any others set up, it's pretty simple.

Mr_B · Nov 24, 2017

Would of thought easy enough do a powered drawer and mount stand for chargers .
Look at a thread on converting a side cabinet to power drawer as has ideas on sliding power cable rail etc.
I worked in scenario where box generally stationary but needed trailering to other workshop, what several of us done was built a rigid u channel frame with fork guides plus shackled points and mounted this to base using castor holes and longer bolts and several other bolt points/plates which stiffen the box and make it easy lifted with forklift or gantry . does make box about 2-3" higher but made it 5 minute job with forklift and couple ratchet straps to put it on a trailer or flatbed no damage or drama .

* Be sure use a coupon *

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gdpolk · Nov 24, 2017

I'd replace the drawer liners with EPPCO. The HF liners kind of ****. Other than that, add power to a drawer if you want that. Other than this its ready to go.

JD3020 · Nov 24, 2017

Thanks for posting that coupon! I looked on their site for a coupon but could only find the $749 deal. I figured i could find a coupon at the store but that saves me some hassle.

Has anybody found a stainless top that fits without too much work? I have no issue getting a piece of steel cut and painting it for a top but would love the bling of stainless. Also a good idea about building a frame to move it around. We've got a couple skid steers and a 5klb rated forklift at our shop, and a 4k electric hoist at the other shop i use(MUCH larger and natural gas heat for winter) so i have no shortage of muscle to move the box. Last i checked i've got 15ft of 2"x4"x.250" tube left from when we built my flatbed so it'd be nothing to rig something up.

Dingleburry · Nov 24, 2017

When i got my tool box for work, was a 28" just a small guy. My boss got better casters, 900lb rated, and i glued and bolted a 3/4" piece of plywood on the bottom. It weighs last time i checked 560 lbs. I push it around the plant almost all day every day for over 4 years, on some rough concrete aswell... and besides it tipping over once and landing on the bottom drawer it works perfectly. Its an international. Mid duty box. Enjoy your new tool box! I should get those bottom slides fixed.....

JD3020 · Nov 24, 2017

Thanks! I'm excited to finally have a box with room to keep everything organized, and easily move everything from shop to shop. No joke last winter i did an engine swap in a F-350 V10 dump truck. Too much of a hassle to dig my craftsman box out and move it so i bought a $80 Stanley tool set at Wal-Mart, $40 Craftsman extension set, and grabbed some misc tools and my Milwaukee toys to do it. My work bench was 2 wobbly sawhorses and an old sheet of plywood. It killed me working like that but i had just bought a $40k truck so my tool budget was non-existent. Guess thats what happens when i'm in between a weekend warrior and full time mechanic. :lol_hitti

Mr_B · Nov 24, 2017

One thing I saw which was good idea was hang on charge panel, basically hooked on like a side cabinet and had the guys chargers fixed mounted on angled sort of shelves, had his led work lights and he had 3 all same 2 charging and one in use.
Was done neat, all wiring pretty much hidden and spare plugs and usb sockets. very practical as so easy grab a batt and they cool better over crammed in a drawer, could mix with a drawer and keep diag kit etc in it.
bottom framing effort makes world of difference on cheap boxes , done well stiffens them up massively and saves lot of stress on box welds and stops castor buckling box panels which happens on rough floors if move it a lot, mine was mainly done for easy forklifting, seemed hassle at first but was worth the effort doing it.
I normally get local metal supplier cut and fold some stainless to a drawing and lay it over box with ply sheet as spacer .
Good drawer liners not bad idea , PITA redoing drawers because liner ****** .
Have fun tomorrow ...

Htscheg · Nov 24, 2017

would like to see some pics on that power shelf set up

BreeStephany · Nov 25, 2017

The easiest way to add a power strip to most drawers is by use of a drag chain to go between the box and the drawer, but the issue with this in regards to that box is that you would probably end up losing at least an 1-1/2" to make a channel for the chain / carrier to travel in. If you are okay with loosing the small amount of space, you could bend up a channel to conceal the chain / carrier out of 16ga steel or similar and then use rivnuts on the channel to create a means to use machine threaded screws to secure it to the drawer.

I would make a penetration similar to this to allow the drag chain to pass through.

Outside of the carrier for the cable, the rest is pretty easy. There is plenty of room at the top of the box to install a IEC plug or recessed plug and route the wiring through the back of the box. You can also add USB to the box at the same time for pretty cheap if you want.

Just my two cents.

unslow1 · Nov 25, 2017

I shimmed the front two wheels to stop the drawers tendency to slowly open. I also put little pieces of plastic in the drawer latch-locks so you don't have to use them. They could really use some sort of grip-latch system. That is about the only things I would do to improve them.

ItsNemo · Nov 25, 2017

New liners that actually grip and don't slide/bunch up.
High quality casters with the softer surface than just plastic.
Remove the drawers and grease the slides before loading it up.

Mr_B · Nov 25, 2017

New castors not bad idea but real decent ones expensive, I left my box on original castors and as done the lower frame for fork lifting it was easy lift box and replace castors after getting the life out ones supplied with it, they done almost 2 years .

BreeStephany · Nov 27, 2017

One thing I definitely regret not doing with my box was not using a 20A rated IEC plug, 20A fuse and 12ga wiring throughout so that I could have added outlets on the back of the box for tools. If you do eventually decide to go the IEC plug and drag chain route, I would suggest using 20A rated wiring throughout, just my two cents.

Any mods/updgrades needed on HF 56" box?

JD3020

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radio2000

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Air21

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LXCam

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Mr_B

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gdpolk

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JD3020

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Dingleburry

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JD3020

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Mr_B

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Htscheg

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unslow1

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ItsNemo

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