Rustoleum Epoxyshield "Industrial" Floor Coating

Luckydevil · Jan 11, 2005

info page: http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=59&SBL=1

to order: http://www.menco.com/rustoleumpage.htm ($100 shipped)

This is not the water based stuff they sell at Home Depot. It is a much tougher and longer lasting solvent based epoxy. The only place I could find that sells it to the public is listed above. It only comes in a light gray color and does not include any grit in the epoxy for traction. I'm not sure if you can add sand or not, but I think it would be okay if you did add a small amount.

Overall i am very happy with it. It has been 7 months since laying it down and not a single raised portion. The finish is all in the prep work though. I highly advise filling any cracks, gouges, or small holes with one of the premade cement products that come in small plastic containers. They sell them at home depot and they are very inexpensive. Any imperfections will show through the epoxy, even small cracks.

I'm impressed with how durable it is, but it is not bullet proof. I have gouged into the concrete a few times when dealing with very heavy objects. Without any sort of grit the floor is also super slippery when wet. I plan on laying Racedeck on top of the epoxy to have a really tough floor.

I spent probably about $200 including the extra stuff I needed for the prep and application. Also expect to not be able to use the garage at all for about two weeks between prep time and cure time.

I've got before and after pics somewhere, I'll see if I can't find them.

Luckydevil · Mar 10, 2005

Before and after pics...

jrsully · Aug 9, 2005

just put down the rustoleum industrial epoxy, it's down but very blotchy (glossy in some areas, flat in others), wondering if anybody has applied clear over it, thsi might help to make a more uniform appearance. Called the techline, said it won't hurt the performance as it stands now, just won't look so hot. Thanks for the help.

Luckydevil · Aug 9, 2005

jrsully said:
just put down the rustoleum industrial epoxy, it's down but very blotchy (glossy in some areas, flat in others)

how long has it been drying?

jrsully · Aug 10, 2005

put it down this past sunday (8/7) morning, looks like it rolled on heavier in some places than in others, should be fully cured in a day or two, any advice is appreciated. Thanks

gb387 · Aug 10, 2005

Luckydevil...

Thanks for the post... I have been looking at this product as well... I was not to sure on the water based stuff. Menards has the "Industrial" stuff. How large is your garage? How many kits did you get?

jrsully · Aug 10, 2005

My garage is 30x30, took 2 kits ( 4 gallons total). here is my advice;
1. make sure you spread out the muriatic acid EVENLY over the entire surface, they say to use a flower watering can, works ok but you will not get uniform coverage. you can see through the paint where there was high concentrations of acid and where there wasn't.
2. Prep is very key, clean and rinse three times after acid etching.
3. If you are doing a big floor have 2 people working, if it is warm it starts to set up fast, you need to move quickly
4. roll out the paint as even as you can, try to keep the same thickness everywhere.
5. Don't use the Home Depot Rustoleum kit, it is water based garbage, order via internet the "industrial" rustoleum kit(s). It only comes in gray though

Good luck

AZmike · Aug 11, 2005

jrsully said:
put it down this past sunday (8/7) morning, looks like it rolled on heavier in some places than in others, should be fully cured in a day or two, any advice is appreciated. Thanks

I had the same problem. Even with the flower watering can my etch wasn't ccompletely even so more of the coating soaked into the some areas of the concrete. Another thin coat is necessary to get a uniform finish. If the first coat is already cured (24-48 hrs depending on the temperature iirc) you'll need to roughen up the surface with a pole sander first. This problem is not uncommon. The only other person I know that used the product had the same result as I did.

I found the solvent-based rustoleum coating at my local Home Depot.

tkellytn · Aug 11, 2005

epoxy

I found the epoxy at my lowes but they told me that not all Lowes have it. I got a bucket with 2 1/2 gallons in it with the flecks only comes in gray and the cleaner I had to go to another Lowes to get 2 of them , Haven't put it down yet want to complet the drywall inside first Will do it in about 2 weeks will let you know how it works.
The one i bought says Rust-olem Profesional epoxy and it is not the water base. Every one says to not use the water base if you are going to work in the garage.

tkellytn · Aug 24, 2005

epoxy

I finally got the epoxy down and every thing went good. just wished i would have been a little better at spreading the flakes but it looks great. It has been 4 days and every day it blends in better, where the areas overlap it showed at first and the longer it drys it is blending in it is just a little thicker there.

Am going to start moving things from the house garage in this weekend. :beer:

rsitzejr · Aug 24, 2005

I'm wondering if I can get my old garage floor clean enough to use this. I'm tired of repainting it every year and I also weld and grind in my shop.

gdchapma · Aug 28, 2005

I just got back from my local Lowes store, and they had 3 of the Rustoleum Epoxyshield Professional Floor Coatings in the 2 1/2 gallon kits (500 sq ft). The normal price per kit was $118, on clearance for $98. I bought all three kits for $80 each. :rocker:

I hope this was as good a deal as I thought it was. Anyway it looks like I have a new project lined up for an upcoming weekend. :thumbup:

tkellytn · Aug 29, 2005

Good Deal

That is a good deal I had to go to another Lowes store to get 2 buckets at the $118 price. It has been done a week now and just put my 2 Mustangs back in the garage. Looks great. The only sugestion I have is poor all of the base color you are going to use together in one of the big buckets and mix good then poor back into there cans that way the color will match and only mix about 1 gallon of base and 1 of hardner at a time. The flakes take a little work to get even. It looks gread and I would deffantly do it again.
:beer:

mgiannetto · Oct 2, 2005

Uneven Application of Epoxyshield

Hello,

I applied the Expoyshield Friday (Sept 30) and even though it has been drying for about 36 hours it is still very "streaky". The 4x4 areas look they have a bit of a border around them (I will try and post a picture either in or an as attachment to this post) . I suspect it is becasue the material went on heavier as I overlapped the seams (to ensure the coat was covering). There are also some spots that look a little shiny (I suspect it is not fully cured in those areas).

Has anyone else experienced a similar problem?

I used the Epoxyshield from Lowe's (epoxy not water based). It came in a large bucket with enough material to cover 500sq. feet (was labeled "professional floor coating"). I did a little more than half my garage. Still have another full bucket (I bought two) to complete the job next weekend.

Not happy with the way it looks at this point.

Anyone experience similar problems. I see one person posted that the uneven lines disappeared after several days. Did it look like mine initially?

Thanks for any assistance you can provide.

Regards,

Mike

Luckydevil · Oct 2, 2005

Is that the concrete showing through or some sort of speckle finish? What was the temperature when you laid the epoxy?

mgiannetto · Oct 2, 2005

Epoxyshield

Hello,
t
Thanks for he quick response.

It is the finish of the eposyshield itself - no concrete showing through. We used the flecks that came with the product to add some color. My problem is with the lines that seem to border the ~ 4x4 areas (I really tried to follow the instructions more or less to a "T"). I think I must have applied heavier in the overlapping areas.

I will add some other pictures so you can see the whole thing. You advice is very helpful to me.

I did see someone say they had to apply a second coat for it to be even. Your views on that would be appreciate as well.

Thanks,

Mike

mgiannetto · Oct 2, 2005

Epoxyshield

The temperature was mid 60's. I waited 1 hour for it to cure (per the instructions) and used within the pot life indicated.

Luckydevil · Oct 2, 2005

Looks like you may have to lay a second coat to get rid of those lines. When I rolled out the epoxy in my garage I just started at the farthest corner and worked fast to avoid overlapping marks. No 4x4 squares, just keep a wet edge.

mgiannetto · Oct 2, 2005

Epoxyshield

Luke,

Can I just apply it on top of what is already there or do you think I have to re-prep the floor. I have heard of people saying that the floor needs to be sanded between coats (sounds like a lot of works to rough up that surface)? I wonder why as this stuff seems like it would stick to anything?

Any views on that?

Thanks,

Mike

Luckydevil · Oct 2, 2005

I would call Rustoleum on Monday and ask what they recommend. They can tell you the best way to prep for a recoat, or if it is even needed.

Rustoleum: 1(800)323-3584

tkellytn · Oct 3, 2005

When I first put mine down it looked some what like yours there was several overlap stripes like yours but as it has dried most have gone away but not all of them but you have to look close to see them . I also made sure I put a heavy coat on just to be safe. I will take a picture later and post it.
I would waite a little while before you recoat mine has been down about 8 weeks

red98gt · Oct 7, 2005

Mine did the same thing... Almost a splotchy look to it. Figured out I needed to put it down heavier. If I did it again I would do 2 coats, lay one down no flakes wait for it to dry, then go with final coat. It has stood up well, been down over a year now and no lift or flaking.

White Chocolate · Oct 7, 2005

When you guys etched your concrete, how did you dispose of the muriatic acid? Did you just hose it off and into the dirt, or did you use a shovac or something to get it up? Thanks.

bmwpower · Oct 7, 2005

Just hose it off with water to dilute it. Should not be a problem.

ringer · Oct 15, 2005

I have used the same stuff on two different oiccaisions with very good results. However, I have found that a second coat goes a long way in making the floor look great. Rustoleum says if the floor is recoated within 36 hours, you do not need to sand. I sanded with a buffer machine and sanding pads to give the second coat good "bite".

This place has the kits for $88.49 plus free shipping.
http://www.x10.com/electronics/allcategories/homegarden/homeimprovement/rustoleum,12.html

Here are some pics of my finished floor:

gb387 · Oct 15, 2005

man that stuff sure looks good!

I need to break down and get some. I am kind of holding off, I live in a townhouse and I am not sure if it is worth it (in a townhouse that it). When I sell this an get a house I will do it there for sure.

bmwpower · Oct 15, 2005

Anyone have any details on the "premium" Epoxy Shield stuff? I was at Home Depot the other day and they had a brochure in the paint dept. They had the 3 different kinds of Epoxy Shield shown, the water based, the 2 part solvent based and a 2 part high end "premium". The best one was a version that came with a clear top coat. They didn't sell it in the stores, only contractors could install it for you. I'm wondering if you can get a hold of the top coat elsewhere?

bmwpower · Oct 15, 2005

ringer said:
I have used the same stuff on two different oiccaisions with very good results. However, I have found that a second coat goes a long way in making the floor look great. Rustoleum says if the floor is recoated within 36 hours, you do not need to sand. I sanded with a buffer machine and sanding pads to give the second coat good "bite".

This place has the kits for $88.49 plus free shipping.
http://www.x10.com/electronics/allcategories/homegarden/homeimprovement/rustoleum,12.html

Here are some pics of my finished floor:

Looks like this is the same stuff as the Industrial coating as the number is the same (203373). The picture looks different though. Is the professional coating the same as the industrial coating??

ringer · Oct 15, 2005

bmwpower said:
Looks like this is the same stuff as the Industrial coating as the number is the same (203373). The picture looks different though. Is the professional coating the same as the industrial coating??

Yes, I believe it is the same stuff. It looks like they just changed the packaging.

river1 · Oct 16, 2005

gb387 said:
I live in a townhouse and I am not sure if it is worth it (in a townhouse that it). When I sell this an get a house I will do it there for sure.

that's exactly why you want to paint the townhouse it adds to the saleability of it.

later jim

mgiannetto · Oct 17, 2005

Garage Floor re-done

Hello,

First let me say thanks to all who posted comments on my oringinal question about the finish not looking great (borders and racing stripes). I reapplied the rustoleum and it looks great (but it was a lot of work). Rented a power sander/buffer to scrape down the first coat in order to allow the second coat to get a good bite.

Also, I used their professional product (two part solvent based-epoxy), not the regular garage floor product (which is a water-based epoxy). It looks great now. I have no doubt that this product needs to be applied twice - not only to get a clean uiniform finish, but the second coat brings out a deep shine and the color is nice and rich. Let's see if I can figure out how to post some pictures below.

Thanks again to all who provided feedback.

Regards,

Mike

bmwpower · Oct 17, 2005

I think I might have to get this stuff. I've been looking high and low trying to find an alternative, telling myself I won't succumb to the big box epoxy, but it looks really nice. Plus, the price ain't that bad either.

Does anyone have this floor and use it for "heavy duty" work? I plan on doing a lot of work in my garage and don't want to be overly **** about damaging the floor, but I want a nice floor that lasts.

bmwpower · Oct 17, 2005

mgiannetto said:
Hello,

.....Rented a power sander/buffer to scrape down the first coat in order to allow the second coat to get a good bite.....

Regards,

Mike

Where did you rent the sander? I've been trying to find one...

ringer · Oct 17, 2005

bmwpower said:
Where did you rent the sander? I've been trying to find one...

Most any tool rental store should have them. It is a standard floor buffer (the kind you can use the cloth polishing pads on), but they have a variety of sanding discs that fit them as well. I like the #60 grit for roughing up the first coat of epoxy.

ringer · Oct 17, 2005

mgiannetto said:
Hello,

First let me say thanks to all who posted comments on my oringinal question about the finish not looking great (borders and racing stripes). I reapplied the rustoleum and it looks great (but it was a lot of work). Rented a power sander/buffer to scrape down the first coat in order to allow the second coat to get a good bite.

Also, I used their professional product (two part solvent based-epoxy), not the regular garage floor product (which is a water-based epoxy). It looks great now. I have no doubt that this product needs to be applied twice - not only to get a clean uiniform finish, but the second coat brings out a deep shine and the color is nice and rich. Let's see if I can figure out how to post some pictures below.

Thanks again to all who provided feedback.

Regards,

Mike

I am glad it turned out Mike. I thought my second coat looked killer too.

mgiannetto · Oct 17, 2005

bmwpower said:
Where did you rent the sander? I've been trying to find one...

I rented it from a local equipment rental store (Friendly rental). The machine was $25 for the day (was an Oreck floor sander/buffer) and I needed only one sandpaper disc (60 grit), which was $9.50 (they gave me several, but I returned the extras).

My advice to anyone who has not done this is to plan on applying two coats from the start. If you apply on two consecutive days you do not need to sand in between coats. I think it can sit even longer than 24 hours, but I would just plan to do it in two days. The stuff is really not that expensive. The hardest part is moving all of your stuff out of the garage and then cleaning the floor. I broom swept, vaccumed (with a shop vac), blew the excess dust out with a power blower and finally rinsed with water (removed the excess water with a squeegee) all before I got to using the citric acid. Applying the acid wash was easy. I also used a power bit for my drill to mix the material (they claim it must be mixed well). Apply it heavy. I don't think you will be disappointed.

Regards,

Mike

krooser · Oct 22, 2005

I put two coats on my floor and had extra material sooooo I had my buddy put on a third coat while I was on the road.

The big problem was he waited four days (which is MORE than 72 hours) AND he painted when it was 70 degrees BUT kept the door open and it dropped to 32 overnight.

Well....The paint "blushed"...the gloss was gone in most spots. I decided to rent a sander, go over the floor and give her one more coat.

That turned out to be a great move. First, I got a nice final finish. Second, the sanding smoothed out the fiberglass mesh that was still on the surface from the original pour. And, finally, I now have a much thicker floor coating (I guess 10-12 mils) which SHOULD hold up much better to abuse.

I used a square orbital sander. used one 80 grit and one 100 grit paper. I sanded 1000 sq. ft. in about one hour. It was a breeze. The thing I liked about the orbital was the ease of use without any danger of digging up the surface...it was real ez.
I like EZ.....

I have one more 500 sq. ft. section to do in the spring. I will definately rent that sander again to smmoth out the floor AND i suggest everyone do the same...fiberglass mesh or not....

bmwpower · Oct 22, 2005

Cripe...if I could just find one of these sanders...

EdNJ · Oct 26, 2005

bmwpower said:
Cripe...if I could just find one of these sanders...

Have you tried Home Depot? I rented a floor sander from them when I did my living room and dining room floors.

Speargun · Jan 7, 2009

4 years later.....

How has the Rustoleum held up?

Rustoleum Epoxyshield "Industrial" Floor Coating

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