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Harbor freight sandblaster opinions

Garthbrady12

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Nov 5, 2017
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Georgia
Has anyone ever bought a harbor freight sand/ walnut blaster? Looking to take the bed off my truck and completely strip all the awful gm undercoating and rust so I can repaint. Also how would you guys go about doing the process


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EdT

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Sep 21, 2010
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North Georgia
Assuming you're talking about the free-standing, red tank kind of outdoor unit, I used one to blast a large machine. The issue you should be most concerned about is not the sandblaster, but the compressor you have to run it. I was using a pretty ordinary 5 hp, 2 cylinder single stage compressor and the sand blaster would **** it dry in a minute or so. So, you wait for it to come back up and have another go. It worked, but it took a long time. It hindsight, I'm not sure that a big gnarly knotted wire brush wouldn't have been faster/less annoying for a lot of the project. If you do decide to use one, be sure to open the valve all the way as it says in the instructions. If you don't, the rushing sand will cut through the side of the valve in short order. I was trying to throttle things to use less air. Didn't work out too well.
AFA how would I do what you want to do. Take the truck bed to a professional blasting place. Pay the money and move on. Undercoating that's attached does not sand blast all that well. The loose stuff with rust under it will blow right off.
 

velillen01

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May 20, 2015
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Wyoming
I used the large 100lb pot to do the frame on my FJ40. I used the fine black beauty from tractor supply. Couple things i learned...

-Ditch the crappy nozzle and get one that takes better nozzles. Otherwise youll be going through tips like crazy. You could build one or buy one off ebay for like 50 bucks. It works a ton better. Just make sure the tip size is still small enough.

-Air capacity. I have a quincy QT-54 and it was having to cycle quite a bit. Not a bad thing just make sure you have a compressor that can handle it

-Area to blast.....make sure you have somewhere to blast. Outdoors...dust and sand will go everywhere. I build a bit of a containment to be able to recover the sand it still got sand all over. As for recovery, Out of 80lbs I would recover probably 40-50lbs of it. After the second use of it though it really wasnt any good.

-Media....I tried to use some of the bigger Black Beauty (80grit?) and it worked like ****. Clogged a lot and had to fight it quite a bit. I had luck with a large tip but with a large tip the compressor could not keep up at all. However using the fine grit (like sand) it worked great. So keep that in mind that media choice will have an impact on how well it runs too.
 

OccupantRJ

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Eastern North Carolina
Sandblasting media will clean the undercoating, but may not remove it well. Materials that have rebound do not generally blast remove very well. That is why the grey duct tape can be used as masking during light blasting.
 

NUTTSGT

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Has anyone ever bought a harbor freight sand/ walnut blaster? Looking to take the bed off my truck and completely strip all the awful gm undercoating and rust so I can repaint. Also how would you guys go about doing the process


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Got anybody local that does blasting ? You might find it easier to pay for a soda blast than mess around with buying a blaster and attempting it yourself.

A friend had a foxbody Mustang soda blasted for $400 in his driveway.
 
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Garthbrady12

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Nov 5, 2017
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Georgia
Got anybody local that does blasting ? You might find it easier to pay for a soda blast than mess around with buying a blaster and attempting it yourself.



A friend had a foxbody Mustang soda blasted for $400 in his driveway.



Nah I don’t have anyone around here that does it. I’ve sandblaster many times before but the hand me down blaster took a **** on me, saw they were running a special for the harbor freight one so I went ahead and picked it up.


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Garthbrady12

Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2017
Messages
11
Location
Georgia
I used the large 100lb pot to do the frame on my FJ40. I used the fine black beauty from tractor supply. Couple things i learned...

-Ditch the crappy nozzle and get one that takes better nozzles. Otherwise youll be going through tips like crazy. You could build one or buy one off ebay for like 50 bucks. It works a ton better. Just make sure the tip size is still small enough.

-Air capacity. I have a quincy QT-54 and it was having to cycle quite a bit. Not a bad thing just make sure you have a compressor that can handle it

-Area to blast.....make sure you have somewhere to blast. Outdoors...dust and sand will go everywhere. I build a bit of a containment to be able to recover the sand it still got sand all over. As for recovery, Out of 80lbs I would recover probably 40-50lbs of it. After the second use of it though it really wasnt any good.

-Media....I tried to use some of the bigger Black Beauty (80grit?) and it worked like ****. Clogged a lot and had to fight it quite a bit. I had luck with a large tip but with a large tip the compressor could not keep up at all. However using the fine grit (like sand) it worked great. So keep that in mind that media choice will have an impact on how well it runs too.



Hopefully the 60 gal air compressor can keep up ;) but yeah just saw they were running a special so I picked up the 20 lb for 40 bucks, I’ll be transferring all my nozzles and hoses from my old blaster to this one and I’ll only be using dry play sand!


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Vegaman_Dan

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Jun 1, 2012
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2,453
Location
Pacific, WA
I did the soda blaster thing for my Spitfire body tub. I had problems with nozzle clogging, but that was mostly a problem with my technique. I agree, the stuff gets everywhere. I was wearing a full painter coverall, head covering, the blaster hood, etc, and I still had it *everywhere* and I mean *everywhere* when I showered after the session.

I had thought I was far enough away from the neighbors to not affect them, but the dust cloud still coated their cars 50' away. A lot of washing and apologies happened there. But those neighbors are always curious what I'm doing and enjoy seeing the unusual work being done, so they were okay with it.

Now? I have a car trailer and could haul the whole thing to a shop to be done. I would gladly pay $500 or so to soda blast a car body instead of me doing it. Some shops will even spray an epoxy primer on the resulting metal to prevent flash rusting, which is indeed a real issue.
 

speed bump

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May 28, 2008
Messages
6,317
Location
Butte Montana
I just bought one and used it sandblast the hood for my 71 F-250.

A couple of thoughts.
BUY GOOD PPE. A half mask respirator (not a dust mask) with P100 filters (be clean shaven as well), a decent blasting helmet, heavy rubber or leather gloves with cuffs, a Tyvek suit or heavy clothes that you don't care about, ear plugs (trust me) and a cotton hood or welders cap.

Harbor Freight is starting to put things together better. This had a decent water trap and no leaks from the fittings.

Get your air as dry as possible. I'm looking at a plasma cutter filter setup for my next go around.

Consider getting a 1/2 or 5/8" air hose just for the sandblaster with 1/2" fittings. I had an amusing issue where the restriction in the air fitting resulted in the little bit of water I couldn't get out of the line freezing and restricting the fitting. (this might also go with the don't sandblast when it is 0°F outside and you have 40 ft of air hose sitting in the snow).

The nozzles that come with it ****. I know someone else mentioned getting a different nozzle, can someone link to the one they used?

I used 70 grit silica sandblasting sand from the local Do it Best hardware store. Its about $11 a bag.

My Coleman 5HP 2 stage 80 gallon compressor seemed to keep up okay I never pulled it below about 120 PSI while blasting.

If someone local did sandblasting I would have happily paid them to do this job.
 

Ohmthis

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Jan 20, 2013
Messages
3,000
Location
Outside of Louisville KY
I don't really have much to add, I will say that there is a sticky in the general tool section that is ALL about sand blasting. There should be tons of info on nozzles, abrasives, and pots. Hope this helps!
 
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