Is this the correct way to 'bump out' a receptacle?

Hollywood D · Jan 10, 2018

I put 1/2" T1-11 siding on the inside of my shop and now the outlets are all recessed about 1/8". The covers won't go on because the screws are not long enough and if they do, it looks goofy anyways because the receptacle it recessed so far in the wall. I was looking at using these to 'push' it out and make it flush with the wall. It says in the description 'do not use if finish is combustible without proper barrier'. What is the 'proper barrier'? They are the plastic blue boxes with a standard 110 receptacle in them. I also have a switch that runs my 220v heater that I need to push out. I'll supply a pic of what I'm talking about.

Here is the link to the product I hope to use

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Spacers-25-Pack-172451L/202937111

I bought a bunch of these, but like an idiot I made my cut outs in the wall too big so they won't sit on top of the plywood like they're supposed to. So they're basically useless.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Electrical-Box-Extender-BE1-2/202708650

Hollywood D · Jan 10, 2018

Here’s a picture of what I’m dealing with

naturalgas · Jan 10, 2018

I used a bunch of the spacers they worked great. I also bought new longer screws sold alongside the spacers at Lowes. Mind were deeper than 1/8” I used 3 or 4 spacers stacked on all my outlets and switches.

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naturalgas · Jan 10, 2018

I just saw your pic. Simple fix with spacers ,and it doesn’t look like you’ll need longer screws

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PoorOwner · Jan 10, 2018

The first one is more like if you put tiles on top so that's not combustable, T-111 probably falls into combustable so I would use the bottom one. In reality that plastic is extremely thin like a paper cup so it's not going to stop anything.

You are going to need to buy longer screws as I don't recall they come in it.

If the outlet is really only recessed only 1/8" as you said you probably don't need anything? (do you mean 5/8" as you added 1/2" of wall material..) I had people rough in and drywall before and they are always sink in a little (and it is a bigger problem if it is proud of the wall).

PoorOwner · Jan 10, 2018

updated, I just saw the picture, it looks like you walled with the outlet in place so the ears don't clamp on the wall surface like they should have.

02vito · Jan 10, 2018

If you are only talking about raising the outlets 1/8", those spacers should suffice.

Hollywood D · Jan 10, 2018

Yea it's probably recessed more than 1/8". I guess I don't understand why the box type spacer is any different than the little spacers you put between the screw and the gang box.
Where does the fire hazard come into play?

Hollywood D · Jan 10, 2018

PoorOwner said:
updated, I just saw the picture, it looks like you walled with the outlet in place so the ears don't clamp on the wall surface like they should have.

Yep thats exactly what I did.

naturalgas · Jan 10, 2018

When you take the screws out of work box you should be able to move the outlet up and down to free up ears. It worked for me. then add spacers and secure back in box.

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zmaxmotorsports · Jan 10, 2018

Yeah it may be worth investing in box extensions to help fill the gaps a little.

Movover · Jan 10, 2018

https://www.homedepot.com/p/ReceptX...Receptacle-Box-Extension-Ring-00003/100175417

These

Hollywood D · Jan 10, 2018

Movover said:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/ReceptX...Receptacle-Box-Extension-Ring-00003/100175417

These

good find, I hadn't seen those

LXCam · Jan 10, 2018

This is the type I'd suggest. There are a couple different types but it'll solve your issue plus electrically insulate the gap.

https://www.supplyhub.com/products/...MIjfer14nP2AIVmMVkCh3tMgQWEAQYASABEgLiBvD_BwE

Miss the Pontiacs · Jan 11, 2018

Couldn’t you just take some bare 14 guage copper wire wrap it in a tight coil. Then snip off the excess and use that for a spacer. Or am I missing something here?

zmaxmotorsports · Jan 11, 2018

LXCam said:
This is the type I'd suggest. There are a couple different types but it'll solve your issue plus electrically insulate the gap.

https://www.supplyhub.com/products/...MIjfer14nP2AIVmMVkCh3tMgQWEAQYASABEgLiBvD_BwE

Norcal · Jan 11, 2018

zmaxmotorsports said:
Yeah it may be worth investing in box extensions to help fill the gaps a little.

LXCam said:
This is the type I'd suggest. There are a couple different types but it'll solve your issue plus electrically insulate the gap.

https://www.supplyhub.com/products/...MIjfer14nP2AIVmMVkCh3tMgQWEAQYASABEgLiBvD_BwE

The T1-11 siding is a combustible material, so those extension rings or ones like it are required. See NEC art. 314.20. This is a classic reason to be careful when setting the boxes and when doing the cut outs.

Crazyjake8493 · Jan 11, 2018

Movover said:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/ReceptX...Receptacle-Box-Extension-Ring-00003/100175417

These

Damn it, you beat me to it! These are really the best way, by extending the whole box. I have some spacers but typically only use them when just one is needed.

EOC_Jason · Jan 11, 2018

I would use a ring as others have said because the surrounding material is combustible...

Another choice out there (but not in your case) are these:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hubbell-3-...-L-Silver-Steel-Wall-Plate-Spacers/1000049853

lakeroadster · Jan 11, 2018

EOC_Jason said:
I would use a ring as others have said because the surrounding material is combustible...

Another choice out there (but not in your case) are these:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hubbell-3-...-L-Silver-Steel-Wall-Plate-Spacers/1000049853

Those still leave the combustible T1-11 exposed.

The OP needs the spacers like he linked to in his original post...

He'll have to re-cut the T1-11... to do it right.

Hollywood D said:
I bought a bunch of these, but like an idiot I made my cut outs in the wall too big so they won't sit on top of the plywood like they're supposed to. So they're basically useless.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Electrical-Box-Extender-BE1-2/202708650

EOC_Jason · Jan 11, 2018

That's why I said, "but not in your case"....

I was just posting those for general info as another choice should one day someone else need to do similar but with sheetrock or tile.

lakeroadster said:
Those still leave the combustible T1-11 exposed.

The OP needs the spacers like he linked to in his original post...

He'll have to re-cut the T1-11... to do it right.

lakeroadster · Jan 11, 2018

EOC_Jason said:
That's why I said, "but not in your case".... I was just posting those for general info as another choice should one day someone else need to do similar but with sheetrock or tile.

Thanks.. I missed it.

The OP could use a roto-zip and open up the T1-11. I used one when we put T1-11 up in our garage. Works pretty slick.

Hollywood D · Jan 11, 2018

So does Code require that the metal ears on the receptacle touch the plywood? I’m confused by some of the things I’m reading.

Taco Truck · Jan 11, 2018

Hollywood D said:
So does Code require that the metal ears on the receptacle touch the plywood? I’m confused by some of the things I’m reading.

Electrician here. No, it doesn't as far as I know. I've never seen anything in the NEC requring it.

You just need to extend it either using those spacers or box extension and insulate it from the flammable material using that spark ring someone posted. You're good to after that.

Taco Truck · Jan 12, 2018

EOC_Jason said:
That's why I said, "but not in your case".... I was just posting those for general info as another choice should one day someone else need to do similar but with sheetrock or tile.

Those are a real lifesaversfor devices in brick. They even work well when you're receptacle sits flush but your box moves too much too. They pull the box right against the inside of the brick nicely. I just used one today actually.

coleman10 · Jan 12, 2018

LXCam said:
This is the type I'd suggest. There are a couple different types but it'll solve your issue plus electrically insulate the gap.

https://www.supplyhub.com/products/...MIjfer14nP2AIVmMVkCh3tMgQWEAQYASABEgLiBvD_BwE

I've used these before for outlets in the kitchen backsplash after the tile went on and outside in the garage to pull a couple outlets forward by about 7/8". They work great. Got a two-pack at HD. Came with extra long screws. Easy install.

Hollywood D · Jan 12, 2018

Taco Truck said:
Electrician here. No, it doesn't as far as I know. I've never seen anything in the NEC requring it.

You just need to extend it either using those spacers or box extension and insulate it from the flammable material using that spark ring someone posted. You're good to after that.

Ok that’s what I thought, wanted to make sure I was on the same page. Thank you

Taco Truck · Jan 13, 2018

Anytime.

Crazyjake8493 · Jan 13, 2018

lakeroadster said:
Those still leave the combustible T1-11 exposed.

The OP needs the spacers like he linked to in his original post...

He'll have to re-cut the T1-11... to do it right.

Not if he uses the extension rings myself and Movover recommended. Not cutting necessary.

prostreetamx · Jan 17, 2018

When I built my new garage I had lots of different wall covering thicknesses due to shear wall plywood and 1/2"and 5/8" drywall. I used adjustable depth boxes everywhere so I could adjust them after all the finish work was done. I also had metal studs and these boxes are setup to be screwed on. Not really and option after the work is done but it really saved me a lot of time for my setup. Also used them for outside plugs with shear and stucco depth issues. I got them at Home Depot.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-Gang-...C-_-NavPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-202077339-_-N
I am an actual electrician.

Is this the correct way to 'bump out' a receptacle?

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