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Finally got around the repairing the detent ball spring in my old WIZARD 1/2" ratchet

DadsTools

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Joined
Jul 27, 2017
Messages
1,852
Finally got around the repairing the detent ball spring in my old WIZARD 1/2" ratchet

You read posts from time to time about replacing missing detent balls in ratchet studs. My problem had to do with the spring--the ball was fine and secure, just nothing going on behind it. It's one of those Western Auto Wizard RHFT ratchets made by Duro/Indestro, essentially the same head and shank of a Duro 675 or Indestro 3275 but with the flat grip of a 3270. Great working, high quality ratchet with a nice balance and feel. Been sitting in the project bin for over a year. I read where folks recommend digging the ball out and then re-peening it back in after replacing the spring. I just wasn't going to do that, especially since there was nothing wrong with the ball.

Sure, I could troll eBay for a parts ratchet from which the salvage the stud. Those lunatics want $15-$20 or more + shipping for a flippin' broken ratchet! Dream on.

I decided to drill it out from the other side of the stud. After carefully measuring, I used a carbide tipped bit slightly smaller diameter than the ball channel. Went about 1/4 of the way into the stud before I hit the channel. The spring was actually broken in 3 pieces--don't ask me how this might happen. Had to make a custom hook out of an old screwdriver to dig the coils out. Found a replacement spring I could cut down (been saving every spring I encountered or salvaged from discarded items for decades). Started with a 'test' rod slightly smaller diameter than the drilled hole to figure out how long the spring and plug would have to be. Then took about an inch of brass welding rod of slightly larger diameter, chucked it in the drill press to use as a lathe, and used a file to reduce it so it would press-fit tightly into the hole. Used a rectangle file in the drill press vise and lowered the pin on it to level and smooth the end. Then used a knife file to cut a deep groove above my mark to make it easy to cut off straight while leaving a smaller secondary 'peg' on which the spring would center. Tapered the inside end of main peg slightly so I could snug fit it into the hole so it would temporarily stay in place for me. Then using a 1/4" drive socket to press against the ball side of the stud so as not to compress it, placed the whole array in the drill press vise and tightened to press the pin in. Worked like a charm! Perfect spring tension. Ain't never coming out either.

What? You say I ruined the collector value? Yeah, and what was it worth with the broken spring? It's value as a great user is to me worth more than a broken collectible. It's going into the truck tool box to replace the vintage Proto pear head that IS a valued collectible (what was I thinking?).

If anyone has a similar problem with an old ratchet they want to restore to usefulness, this will get it done for you.
 

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Farleyfan

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Oct 31, 2011
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449
Location
Tennessee
Re: Finally got around the repairing the detent ball spring in my old WIZARD 1/2" rat

Nice work DadsTools and good plan too.
Ive done similar on one of my old new britain ratchets.
Id rather have a good working tool than worry about the collector value anyway.
Looks like you did a nice job on it !
 

bonneyman

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Apr 22, 2010
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8,857
Location
Desert SW
Re: Finally got around the repairing the detent ball spring in my old WIZARD 1/2" rat

The spring probably just corroded out and weakened due to age and just crumbled. Spring steel is a totally different animal for ball bearing and tool handle steels. Plus it moves every time you use it, so, over time it just goes.

Nice repair. Removing/replacing detent balls and springs is a regular job around my shop.
 
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DadsTools

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Jul 27, 2017
Messages
1,852
Re: Finally got around the repairing the detent ball spring in my old WIZARD 1/2" rat

Thanks guys. Glad I'm not the only one who thought approaching it this way was not a hair-brained idea!

Farleyman: I'm with you. I remain unimpressed with today's selection of commonly available ratchets. Some of the newer ones I've seen still made in the US are nice like Snap-On, Proto and SK (my favorite). But it's hard to spring the money for them when there's a ton of older but very serviceable US ratchets of high quality still out there at yard/estate sales and flea markets that can be had for a song. Plus there's a certain intrinsic pride and satisfaction in using them.

bonneyman: Yeah, the broken spring was weird, hardly any oxidation on this one, just simply failed. Sounds like you have this detent ball repair thing down to an art form. I never did one before, and with the time spent to figure out how I was going to do it plus the project itself, I found it to be arduous and time-consuming. I was just drilling into some hardened steel and I figured now's the time to get at it. Taught me to take a closer look at the ratchets I get all buggy-eyed over at these sales--I always just snatched them up first and asked questions later.

Now I have an old Walden 3/8 pear head in near mint condition but with no ball or spring at all. Running a pick up the hole I can feel no residual ledge at all as if it was never peened (although it has the round depression from it). I dread the thought of having to find the right diameter ball and then figuring out how to peen it back in there. I don't think I like it enough to bother. Coarse tooth, awkward feel and sloppy mech. I have the same one in a 1/4" my Dad gave me that's virtually brand new because I hardly ever used it (never told him how much I really disliked it, but maybe that's why I got it!). I suspect it will probably wind up as eBay fodder.
 
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Project 2501

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Joined
Mar 14, 2015
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135
Location
Los Alamitos
Finally got around the repairing the detent ball spring in my old WIZARD 1/2" ratchet

You read posts from time to time about replacing missing detent balls in ratchet studs. My problem had to do with the spring--the ball was fine and secure, just nothing going on behind it. It's one of those Western Auto Wizard RHFT ratchets made by Duro/Indestro, essentially the same head and shank of a Duro 675 or Indestro 3275 but with the flat grip of a 3270. Great working, high quality ratchet with a nice balance and feel. Been sitting in the project bin for over a year. I read where folks recommend digging the ball out and then re-peening it back in after replacing the spring. I just wasn't going to do that, especially since there was nothing wrong with the ball.

Sure, I could troll eBay for a parts ratchet from which the salvage the stud. Those lunatics want $15-$20 or more + shipping for a flippin' broken ratchet! Dream on.

I decided to drill it out from the other side of the stud. After carefully measuring, I used a carbide tipped bit slightly smaller diameter than the ball channel. Went about 1/4 of the way into the stud before I hit the channel. The spring was actually broken in 3 pieces--don't ask me how this might happen. Had to make a custom hook out of an old screwdriver to dig the coils out. Found a replacement spring I could cut down (been saving every spring I encountered or salvaged from discarded items for decades). Started with a 'test' rod slightly smaller diameter than the drilled hole to figure out how long the spring and plug would have to be. Then took about an inch of brass welding rod of slightly larger diameter, chucked it in the drill press to use as a lathe, and used a file to reduce it so it would press-fit tightly into the hole. Used a rectangle file in the drill press vise and lowered the pin on it to level and smooth the end. Then used a knife file to cut a deep groove above my mark to make it easy to cut off straight while leaving a smaller secondary 'peg' on which the spring would center. Tapered the inside end of main peg slightly so I could snug fit it into the hole so it would temporarily stay in place for me. Then using a 1/4" drive socket to press against the ball side of the stud so as not to compress it, placed the whole array in the drill press vise and tightened to press the pin in. Worked like a charm! Perfect spring tension. Ain't never coming out either.

What? You say I ruined the collector value? Yeah, and what was it worth with the broken spring? It's value as a great user is to me worth more than a broken collectible. It's going into the truck tool box to replace the vintage Proto pear head that IS a valued collectible (what was I thinking?).

If anyone has a similar problem with an old ratchet they want to restore to usefulness, this will get it done for you.
I have a 1/2" drive plomb pebble breaker bar with the same problem and I was wondering how it could be fixed. Nice work
 

snapmom

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Sep 4, 2008
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3,545
Location
Florida
Snap on from the 50s or so had a removable plate, you could replace the parts and then use a new plate (domed shaped) and press it back in until it was flat. Later they used a hole, and could take the guts out with a drive pin, and reset the spring and ball by use of special dealer tools.
 

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DadsTools

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Joined
Jul 27, 2017
Messages
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Snap on from the 50s or so had a removable plate, you could replace the parts and then use a new plate (domed shaped) and press it back in until it was flat. Later they used a hole, and could take the guts out with a drive pin, and reset the spring and ball by use of special dealer tools.
I don't believe I've encountered in my travels any of those with the round plate. Certainly a smart idea--makes sense for a tool designed for long-term life in a professional environment. Snap-on has come up with some great ideas over the years. I've seen the ones with the holes in the stud, but always thought they were for oil. Duh. Who knew? Certainly not the Cretans using Western Auto tools (like me).

I decided I was not going to drill out a perfectly staked ball opening to then figure out how to re-stake it without a specialized tool. Drilling the back just to get out the spring did the trick.
 
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