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I want a lift!

Rookie

Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
5
Hey guy's I know that this probably allready came up somewhere but here it is anyway.
I want to install a lift in my garage. 2 or 4 posts? what are the differences pro and cons of eachother. I'll be working on the cars a lot. 110 or 220v? I have a 2 doors 21 by 28 ft, 10ft high garage. I want to hear from your experience.
 
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6t7gto

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Joined
Dec 6, 2005
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522
Location
bedford,ohio
i have a four post and really like it.
four post:
i have the caster kit and originally set it up in my single bay. decided to do a frame-off on my car and just moved the lift to the double bay.


two post:
once the lift is installed, make sure it is located where you want it.

david
 

the intimidator

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Aug 15, 2005
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Location
ontario canada
what is the main use of the lift going to be storage, oil changes, brake/tire's, driveline suspension ect

the 4 post is a good lift for doing the oil and storing car's on but you have limited access to the under side of the vehicle and you have to drive onto them so that limits what you can do with suspension brakes ect

the 2 post lift will give you nearly full access to everything on the vehicle so it is more suited to doing more in depth work on car's then the 4 post but it is very hard to move as it is bolted into the concrete lol
 

6t7gto

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Dec 6, 2005
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Location
bedford,ohio
i have done a frame-off on my four-post lift.
once i got my "C" channels under the body, i let the lift down and the body was supported on cement blocks. approx. 40" high.
rolled the frame out from under, and raised the lift.
the body was rock solid, sitting on the drive-on ramps and i had plenty of headroom to detail the floor of my car.

david

p.s.
i have pulled transmissions, and complete rearend housings on my lift by myself.
unless you spend the extra dollars for tall tripod jackstands, a two post makes it more difficult.
 
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GearHead_1

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Jan 9, 2005
Messages
544
Location
Utah
the intimidator said:
what is the main use of the lift going to be storage, oil changes, brake/tire's, driveline suspension ect

the 4 post is a good lift for doing the oil and storing car's on but you have limited access to the under side of the vehicle and you have to drive onto them so that limits what you can do with suspension brakes ect

the 2 post lift will give you nearly full access to everything on the vehicle so it is more suited to doing more in depth work on car's then the 4 post but it is very hard to move as it is bolted into the concrete lol


This post hits the nail on the head. If you're going to do lots of regular repairs take a look at most repair shops and see what they're using. It will definetely be one and not the other.
 
OP
R

Rookie

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Apr 3, 2006
Messages
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Thanks guys, I definitely will work on the cars a lot so I think I'll go with a 2 posts. Any advice on what to look for in such a lift. Locks,chains or wires, electrical systems etc. What do you like or dont like about your lift? I'm trying to find out what the the bugs are before I buy.
 

GearHead_1

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Jan 9, 2005
Messages
544
Location
Utah
Take a look at both Rotary lifts (http://www.rotarylift.com/) and Bend Pak lifts (http://www.bendpak.com/).My feeling is that Rotary makes the finest product on the market though you pay for it. Bend Pak is a lot of lift for the money. Each lift requires different attention to details. Some require overhead wires and some run between posts. The lift that you ultimately decide to choose will determine what your overall needs are. I think that a couple of good pole jacks for under lift are almost a requirement but that's just me. I would also suggest looking hard at the asymetrical design. These type lifts allow you to open the door and get out without much problem.
 
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GearHead_1

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Jan 9, 2005
Messages
544
Location
Utah
Take a look at both Rotary lifts http://www.rotarylift.com/ and Bend Pak lifts http://www.bendpak.com/. My feeling is that Rotary makes the finest product on the market though you pay for it. Bend Pak is a lot of lift for the money. Each lift requires different attention to details. Some require overhead wires and some run between posts. The lift that you ultimately decide to choose will determine what your overall needs are. I think that a couple of good pole jacks for under lift are almost a requirement but that's just me. I would also look hard at the asymetrical models, it makes getting out of your car no problem.
 
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carcentric

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Apr 6, 2006
Messages
48
Location
Seattle area, USA
Rookie said:
Hey guy's I know that this probably allready came up somewhere but here it is anyway.
I want to install a lift in my garage. . . . I have a . . . 10ft high garage. . . .


With only a 10' high ceiling, I'd recommend calculating the usable height underneath before spending big money on a full-size lift. Unless you only work on GT40's and British roadsters, you might end up doing all your work underneath on your knees!

I bought a BendPak LowRise-60 (about $1300) that lifts the car by its sills, about 26-27" off the ground. All undercar work is done on my back on a creeper (more comfortable for me than assuming the coal-miner's position under a regular lift). For tire/brake work, I pull up a chair, but then I'm old and I've earned the rest. I don't have clearance issues above my cars even though I only have 8' ceilings (with a 10' ceiling, you could take on full-sized pickups).

I'm not selling 'em, but I think they're worth looking into. I've had mine for a little over ten years, and it's done everything I wanted it to (except the actual wrench turning!).
 

GearHead_1

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Jan 9, 2005
Messages
544
Location
Utah
I'm sorry to say that I never picked up on the 10 ft. portion of the original post until I read the most recent post. Finding a 2 or 4 post lift that works with that height ceiling will be tough.
 
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OP
R

Rookie

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Well that's what I love about this site, the experience of everybody. I checked and if I take my Mustang for example, it's about 55inc high. so if I leave a foot before the car hits the ceiling ( not good) it should leave about 60 in. under the body more or less. Garage doors's not a problem they are 10 ft wide and I didn't put a door opener on the one used for the lift. youre right I would have to crouch under to work on it...The thing is I'm trying to create space for a project. dont want to lose the parking space for the Mustang and bring the project up so I wont lose the other parking space for the Hogs.
 

StangRacing

Active member
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
35
Location
Hattiesburg, Ms
anyone got pictures of 2 post lifts in garage.........I am in process of building a shop........walls are 10ft and ceils highest point 14ft but trust in the way so I got to either spend extra grand to do the 12ft walls.....which would increase ceilings by 2 ft too......
 

AndrewM

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Joined
Apr 4, 2006
Messages
82
Location
Waco, TX
I have a lift that doesn't have the overhead bar - the cable and hydraulics pass through a floor plate. Here's a pic - this is as high as I can get the car (the rear hatch window is about 2" from the garage rail - I can just "tink" the last safety stop and then depressurize the hydraulics without hitting the window ;) note the tape on the left lift pillar, that's my mark). It's a Gemini GP-9F. Pardon the mess. I'm a pack rat. But you'd be amazed at what I can dig up when I "need it". ;)

Floor plate lift

I can park a car (Camaro) underneath, and frequently do. My shop has a 12' roof, but inside due to the trusses it's only ~11 ft. The posts are about 9' tall. The previous owners of the house built the shop, and put in a 12 foot wide door (arrgh) - that's why the car has to go in at an angle. If you don't have a shop built yet, I'd recommend planning ahead and going for a full height lift (they're 144" tall at the overhead beam), and a door that won't get in the way. ;)

My buddy (whose car that is) is trying to talk me in to a roll up door on the shop, so we can go to full height. I'm having a tough time justifying the $$ for the extra 1 foot of height though. And I'd lose my electric opener.
 

AndrewM

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Joined
Apr 4, 2006
Messages
82
Location
Waco, TX
My shop is a 30 x 30 with a 12' roof that's pitched down the middle above the car there. The garage door is 8'h x 12' wide, and offset to the side. That's why the car has to pull in at an angle... one car can pull straight in, the other at an angle, and I can fit 2 (err, 3 with the lift) cars in there. I have too much junk in there. ;)

I didn't build the shop, it was the reason we bought the house tho. :D
 
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