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Milwaukee M18 brushless hammer drill torque settings too high

tdwpgtp

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Hello everyone, I recently purchased a set of Milwaukee's m18 brushless impact and hammer drill combo. I do a lot of screwing into wood, and so the adjustable clutch is an important feature to me. However, I have noticed that even the lowest torque setting on my drill is too high for many applications. I have compared to a set of DeWalt XR drills that we have at work, and the milwaukee clutch does not go near as low as the Dewalt, or any other drill I have used.

Does anyone else feel the same? Or is it possible that my clutch is stiffer than it is supposed to be? Any input is welcome!
 
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kctyphoon

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I might be wrong about this - so don't jump on me, but I thought the Milwaukee had more clutch settings then Dewalt.. again - I might be wrong cause I gave my Dewalt drill away, so I can't look.. if it's really delicate stuff, a 12v drill, or 12v screwdriver might be a better choice.. I am not the authority on clutch settings cause I hardly use the drills for that.
 
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tdwpgtp

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Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure about the quantity of settings, but the lowest setting on the Milwaukee is certainly still higher torque than any other brand of drill that I have used. And I am not talking about super delicate stuff, but rather softer woods or older woods that may have had screws in and out a few times and may a bit worn (think old speaker cabinet screw holes). Even still, I would venture to say that the Dewalt stuff I have used WOULD be capable of doing some pretty delicate stuff on their lowest settings. I must say, ultra low torque is nice for when you want to run a screw all the way in, but prefer to hand torque with a screw driver or wrench.
 

kctyphoon

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Yea man - check on YouTube.. I'm sure there's a comparison video between some Milwaukee and Dewalt drills that mention the amount of clutch settings between the two when compared. I honestly could have it backwards.. thing is they don't give specs out for those settings - they just kinda "are what they are" as far as I know.. even my m12 screwdriver can be too high on the lowest setting for really small screws in plastic..
 

BMack37

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Dewalt's and other SBD drills' clutch setting is the lightest in the industry. Some of Milwaukee's are rather high, some aren't...you really have to try it before you buy.

The M12s are pretty light but not light as Dewalt. Some of the older brushed drills are low but others aren't...it's odd how they do it, no real rhyme or reason to it. I have a M18 compact drill that has one of the heaviest clutches, even over my big gen 2 Fuel.

Edit..
Adding model numbers, lightest clutch to heaviest(of the drills I own):
M18 Brushed hammer drill 2611-20, pretty close to Dewalt
M12 Fuel hammer drill 2404-20 (both M12s are close to Dewalt's 2nd or 3rd setting)
M12 Brushed drill/driver 2407-20
M18 Fuel hammer drill (Gen 2) 2704-20
M18 Brushed compact drill/driver 2606-20, this one is really HEAVY...lowest clutch setting is like the 12th lowest on the 2404-20. I'd say 2704-20 is closer to 8th on the 2404-20
 
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DFB

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Since you didn't mention it was Fuel will assume it's the basic brushless tool with 500in lbs


2702 brushless

Clutch # in.lbs

#1-3 25-28 Small screws in softwood.

#4-6 29-34

#7-9 36-39 Medium screws in softwood or small screws in hardwood.

#10-13 40-44

#18 53 Large screws in softwoods. Medium screws in hardwood or large screws in hardwood with pilot hole.


Fuel 2804 is a bit different

Clutch Setting/ in. lbs
#1-4 25-40

#5-8 45-60

#9-11 46-51 Small screws in softwood. Medium screws in softwood or small screws in hardwood.

#12-14 65-75

#14-17 80-90 Large screws in softwoods. Medium screws in hardwood or large screws in hardwood with pilot hole.


Those are numbers are from the operators manual which can be found online as PDF and are about as close as it gets since wood grain can vary as does the application. like your using worn out holes.

Low settings really don't have much drive power and can clutch out pretty quickly in solid wood :dunno:
 
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tdwpgtp

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Thanks for the input BMack37. I don't think that my M18 brushless is really even close to the Dewalt here, but you information is certainly useful.

Since you didn't mention it was Fuel will assume it's the basic brushless tool with 500in lbs


2702 brushless

Clutch # in.lbs

#1-3 25-28 Small screws in softwood.

#4-6 29-34

#7-9 36-39 Medium screws in softwood or small screws in hardwood.

#10-13 40-44

#18 53 Large screws in softwoods. Medium screws in hardwood or large screws in hardwood with pilot hole.


Fuel 2804 is a bit different

Clutch Setting/ in. lbs
#1-4 25-40

#5-8 45-60

#9-11 46-51 Small screws in softwood. Medium screws in softwood or small screws in hardwood.

#12-14 65-75

#14-17 80-90 Large screws in softwoods. Medium screws in hardwood or large screws in hardwood with pilot hole.


Those are numbers are from the operators manual which can be found online as PDF and are about as close as it gets since wood grain can vary as does the application. like your using worn out holes.

Low settings really don't have much drive power and can clutch out pretty quickly in solid wood :dunno:

You have assumed correctly, it is NOT the Fuel model. I will verify the exact model number when I am home. In any even, I have no confidence that I could sink in a "small" screw into a soft wood without it completely tearing out the wood with my drill.

I will try to find a way to measure the torque on the lowest setting, and report back.
 

DFB

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I have the 2607 Milwaukee hammer drill that's the brushed model but the specs are exactly the same I believe.

So I just tried it myself on a few wood screws and compared it my old 6347D Makita drill/driver. And on the very lowest setting it would NOT clutch out on a small very small screw in softwood 1x4 pine. I used a 3/4" long #6 that had a full thread.

The Makita set it perfectly flush.

I then went up to a 1 inch #8 wood screw and it did stop flush or just slightly below on the lowest setting.

Sometimes non hammer drill models have different settings. I think my older M12 drills may be like that

To it's credit though it did have great trigger control in low and I could set it flush by eye easily enough :dunno:
 

DFB

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As an FYI for anyone following here I just repeated the same #6 screw in pine with both the M12 Fuel 2402 2 speed screwdriver and 2403 Fuel drill.driver The drill driver clutched out on the 2 lowest setting flush on #1 and slightly below on #2 and I actually had more on the dedicated screwdriver with #1 not quite flush, #2 flush, and #3 countersunk slightly :thumbup:
 
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ItsNemo

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I rarely find I need to use the clutch to stop myself sinking too deep into wood...given that wood's density varies, relying on the clutch just seems to result in a hodge podge of not sinking deep enough and ramming it through the wood. I generally just feather it in when it gets close...once you get a feel for the tool, it's pretty easy to be bang on that way.
 

ptgarcia

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I rarely find I need to use the clutch to stop myself sinking too deep into wood...given that wood's density varies, relying on the clutch just seems to result in a hodge podge of not sinking deep enough and ramming it through the wood. I generally just feather it in when it gets close...once you get a feel for the tool, it's pretty easy to be bang on that way.

I agree. Varying locations on the same piece of wood often require different clutch settings. I find the best approach is a delicate touch by the operator.

That said, I have the newer version 2401 M12 screwdriver I use for delicate stuff and it's perfect for that.
 

DFB

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The 2401 is my fav for small light work :D


That was the second Milwaukee tool I ever bought with the brushed 2411 M12 3/8" hammer drill being the first
 

DerekV

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My M18 gen 2 Fuel drill model 2703 on the lowest clutch setting is also too tough/high, makes it 100% useless for small fasteners and/or soft material. That's my only gripe with the drill, but it's a big gripe.

I've played around with the e-clutches on other models like the new M12 Fuels and it's friggen awesome. I really hope the new M18 Fuel drills have e-clutches. Haven't been able to find any information on the clutch type anywhere. I am not confident in their mechanical clutches for things > M12.
 

DFB

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I had time to also do the Gen 1 Fuel hammer drill it will clutch stop a #8 1 inch wood screw on setting one perfectly in soft pine. I repeated that scenario several times over.

I'm curious which other tools have an "E" clutch. I have that on my M12 RA drill it's very nice
 
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ptgarcia

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I had time to also do the Gen 1 Fuel hammer drill it will clutch stop a #8 1 inch wood screw on setting one perfectly in soft pine. I repeated that scenario several times over.

I'm curious which other tools have an "E" clutch. I have that on my M12 RA drill it's very nice


It's my understanding my Gen 2 M12 hammer drill has the E-clutch but I'm not certain of that.
 

mobiledynamics

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Call me counterintuitive , but if the application is countersink, a smigen, impact.

IF the application is for a finished piece, I don't rely on the clutch. I still use a impact on low - dial it in and hand tighten. Again, if it's important enough, out come the hand tools.
More work I suppose.

The only time I use my drill is if I need to make holes and I don't have the bit on a 1/4
 

WWheeler

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My most used tools for sinking screws or for tightening small machine screws in electronics and the like has always been my 18V or the 20V Dewalt drills, or the little 7V 2-position screwdriver. Don't even really have a preference between them just which one was closest at the time. The clutch on any of them makes it super-easy. Once set I can pull the trigger full blast to sink screw after screw without slowing down or worrying about sinking them too far or stripping one out. I've never really given it much thought until reading this thread.
 
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tdwpgtp

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I rarely find I need to use the clutch to stop myself sinking too deep into wood...given that wood's density varies, relying on the clutch just seems to result in a hodge podge of not sinking deep enough and ramming it through the wood. I generally just feather it in when it gets close...once you get a feel for the tool, it's pretty easy to be bang on that way.

In most cases I want to run the screw all of the way in until it hits the surface of the work piece, after which I had tighten. Getting a feel for a drill is good and all, but still too big of a risk on old vintage screw holes. These clutches are designed and produced for a reason, and there should be no reason for me to have to RELY on a subjective feel.

I will have to attempt some of the "testing", so to speak, and see if my results match DFB's results, to some extent.
 

mobiledynamics

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What's the definition of vintage tdw.....if the risk or ~finish~ factor requires a screwdriver to dial it in, then I'm using a screwdriver from the get go. I suppose when one is in the trades and time is $$, then one relies on something more than a manual screwdriver
 

DFB

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Wow I just was closing up the garage and the little 2401 1/4" hex screwdriver was just staring at me from the open tool drawer :lol: So I slapped a 2"inch long #2 ph Dewally bit in it (omg like sacrilegious right? ;) considering I have dozens of them in 5 packs from my tool sales). Anyhow it took until clutch setting #4 before it would fully sink just beyond flush that tiny 3/4" #6 wood screw. Settings #1 and #2 wouldn't even drive it all the way. And position #3 was just barely flush in softwood 1x4 pine
 

Goofballer22

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Yes, my Milwaukee hammer M18 has the same problem - FAR TOO MUCH torque on the lowest setting. Unless driving great big screws into 2x4's or bigger, it cannot be trusted. Which is a shame, cuz everything else about it is pretty good (except for the dumb chuck always undoing itself).

Ikea furniture? Forget it - the milwaukee will make a mess of it.

My Bostitch, on the other hand, is way better.



I am thinking of scrapping the Milwaukee just because of this torque problem.

I suppose nobody has disassembled the chuck to mod the torque?
 

rlitman

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...Ikea furniture? Forget it - the milwaukee will make a mess of it...

Nah, just don't be a gorilla on the trigger and use a Pozidriv #2 bit.

Big Red wants you to buy this
that's why

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/2401-22

I was about to type what I was thinking I already typed and I did in post #20.
If it's important enough, out comes the manual tools

Yeah, that. Or just use an impact driver on a lower setting. Drills just plain **** at driving screws.
 

mobiledynamics

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LOL. I grabbed a #6 Brass slotted. And was about to just see what the fuzz was all about.....but ended up not doing it as that would not be how I would drive a screw if I cared about either the fastener or the finished piece. It would be predrill and then hand-fasten..
 
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Goofballer22

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LOL. I grabbed a #6 Brass slotted. And was about to just see what the fuzz was all about.....but ended up not doing it as that would not be how I would drive a screw if I cared about either the fastener or the finished piece. It would be predrill and then hand-fasten..

The ikea furniture is predrilled - and you definitely do NOT want to hand-fasten 100+ screws.
 

Goofballer22

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Big Red wants you to buy this
that's why

ht tps://www milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/2401-22

I was about to type what I was thinking I already typed and I did in post #20.
If it's important enough, out comes the manual tools

Man, my toolbag is heavy enough, and already has enough **** in it. Not to mention the lightness of my wallet.
 
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