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First time shed / shop builder - opinions on this modern style / design?

gamp945

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Jun 4, 2014
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Hi all,

I have never built a framed structure before but would like to start by building a smallish shed / shop in my back yard. I'm just a DIY-minded homeowner/hobbyist, budding woodworker, and vintage 2-stroke enthusiast. I don't have a garage, so this would function as my workshop and storage shed.

I just received the latest edition of The Family Handyman magazine and they have a pretty nice looking shed / shop design in it. It measures 12' x 14' and has an overhanging roof which covers about 5' of extra space. It has a modern style which is consistent with the age of my home and is my favorite architectural style. They have published clear instructions on how to build it yourself. You can see it here:

http://gamedayshed.familyhandyman.com/

I would make a few changes to the design. I would probably omit the huge garage door (expensive and unnecessary in my case). I would probably also replace the single door with a double pre-hung door.

I'd love to hear opinions from veteran garagemen here. Do you see anything that you don't like about this design? Does this design look too ambitious for a first timer? I think I have all the necessary tools. I also already have a 12x14 concrete pad that was poured several months ago, which is coincidentally the exact dimensions of this shed's design.

Any advice is very much appreciated. Thanks for reading.
 
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ProMetalShop

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Sep 17, 2017
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I really like that design, and looks to be a very simple build. I’ve built a few shops, however, I am in no way a builder, but enjoy the experience. One thing I’ve learned, other than a level and plumb bob are one of the most important tools is, what ever the size, I would double it, if the area would support it. Also look at the height, to decide if in the future over head shelving would be useful, that the height would suite those ideas. Every time I’ve built a work area, I’ve been one step ahead of the last build in knowing what would be truly helpful for my purposes, placement of inside and outside outlets, position of doors, and swing out instead of swing in doors. And just as important, how many friends you can muster up for that project. I was fortunate on my last one, where every weekend about six of my friends would show up on the weekend, and was so much fun, when it came to the end, we missed our weekend adventure. Here’s my last shop we tackled.
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Homerr

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Seattle, WA
Some jurisdictions allow a certain square footage, such as 150 sf, to be built without a permit. If you live in a city, area with covenants, or have hardass neighbors you may want to check in to it.
 

Falcon67

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It does have that mid-century look about it. Very nice. I haven't subscribed in many years, but that's a variation on a common shed-of-some-sort theme. They must have some lame local lumber yards if they had to order the 2x12x20s and the LP siding.

You could still do the main door- use folding door panels of some size (or make) - think folding closet door - and add Lexan.

Looks like an easy build and a good way to get started on swinging a hammer. Trust me - there isn't anything you can do with wood that you can't just cut up and go buy more to try again.

A good framing hammer (or get air and a refurbed Porter-Cable full head framing gun), and good regular hammer, the trim air nailers at HF get great reviews (have one - works well), a 7 1/2" circular saw and a good sliding miter saw will construct anything from a dog house to a full size house.

And a pry bar - never get by without a good pry bar LOL. For those "errors".

Do it - go buy some lumber and get on with it.
 
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Joe_K

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Jan 12, 2018
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Looks awesome, just small. If it's all the space you need, go for it.
 
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gamp945

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Thanks to everyone for the comments so far! To answer a few questions:
- I will need to get a building permit
- I think I probably have all the tools I need already (thanks to the HOT DEALS forum!)
- The size is just right for my residential back yard. Any larger and it would start competing with my small home and be an eyesore to the neighbors. Much smaller and it would quickly become difficult to call a "workshop"
- Another reason to omit the large garage door (or similar) is so I have more wall space inside. Also, building a wall vs. a large door is much more pest-proof.

A few additional questions I have are:
1. The current slab that I have poured is exactly 12x14 - the same as the size of the shed as planned. Is it OK to build all the way to the edge of a slab, or is it preferred (or required) to leave some room at the edges of a slab?
2. The plan calls for LP smartside siding. From a bit of googling, I see that the main competitor here is Hardie panel. I'm willing to look at all siding options though. Any thoughts?
3. I am considering omitting interior paneling on the walls and roof to save money, at least initially. It seems it shouldn't be a problem to add these later if I want. Bad idea?
4. The plan calls for steel roof panels, which the builders contracted out. This was a $3k expense for them. Any thoughts on a DIY solution that is less expensive? Obviously there is asphalt shingles, but what about DIY steel roofing? I wonder why this DIY publication contracted out the roofing.

Thanks again for the comments. Seems like I might be starting a build thread soon!
 
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engineer2

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I built a shed from scratch 2 years ago.

1. No problem with building up to the edge. It'll look nicer. You'll want to make the bottom plate out of pressure-treated lumber.

2. I used LP smartside. The only precaution with that material is to paint it with high-quality exterior paint and build it/caulk it so water never gets to any edge or back side or it'll bubble up. I used cedar trim along the bottom edge so the SmartSide wouldn't get wet along the bottom. Use OSI Quad for caulking. I used DutchBoy MAXBOND Exterior paint and water actually beads up on it.

3. No problem. You can always finish the interior later. I did 5/8" OSB on the inside of my shed. I insulated my shed because of our climate extremes. Leave the bottom edge of the interior panels a half inch off the floor so spills don't wick up.

4. Roofing is sometimes left to the experts. I used asphalt shingles, but had a contractor friend roof it for me mainly because he saved me time and knew what he was doing. Steel panels seem to be easy to do as long as you read up on it. You'll probably want eave and ridge vents. At least thats what we do around here. Asphalt shingles may require a 3/12 pitch minimum.

Lessons learned: Make the main door wider. More height (8ft + interior) gives you free overhead storage.
 

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Falcon67

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2. The plan calls for LP smartside siding. From a bit of googling, I see that the main competitor here is Hardie panel. I'm willing to look at all siding options though. Any thoughts?

LP is good stuff. Pre-primed holds finish paint very well. It's tough and can take some abuse - like a backstop for tennis balls and such LOL.

Hardi - basically concrete board. Good exterior, likely never rot. PITA to cut, fragile - hit it wrong and it breaks. Heavy in the panel size.

Have used both on pretty good sized buildings and Hardi on the build in my signature. I would go LP if I do it again, much easier to work with IMHO.

Corrugated roof panels are no big deal IMHO, you just screw them down with the appropriate fasteners. Some folks are "diy" and some are DIY! - no fail if you decide to farm out something. But looking at the detail, $3000 = bigtime ripoff. I did the roof on our 24x40 and didn't spend anywhere near that, including the nailer and nails.

Looks like the panels they used: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Metal-S...BEgK3pPD_BwE&dclid=CJ20tr_oztsCFYctaQod3zsF9w

>You'll probably want eave and ridge vents.
No place in that roof design for such. I would use poly iso foam between the rafters, at least 2" and reflective OSB decking under the roof.
 
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Voi

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Oct 10, 2010
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Western South Dakota
I just received the latest edition of The Family Handyman magazine and they have a pretty nice looking shed / shop design in it. It measures 12' x 14' and has an overhanging roof which covers about 5' of extra space. It has a modern style which is consistent with the age of my home and is my favorite architectural style.

I have a cabin with a 2/12, single slope pitch. That design can catch a lot of sun so I'm curious what direction the tall side of the building will face, what side the overhang will be on, and if you plan on the 5' overhang being a shaded outdoor work area?

I'd like to know more about the beam and rafter detail. Like do the plans call for ordering a beam with a bevel ripped to match the roof slope? Or do they simply sit upright and the rafters have bird mouths cut into them or are they attached with adjustable angle rafter connectors? The latter can add up in cost quickly and for such a small shed cutting bird mouths wouldn't be a big deal. And I'd prefer not to rip a bevel onto the top of a beam or pay to order once already ripped.

As far as roofing, if they are recommending a hidden fastener type metal roof that could account for much of the cost. My cabin has an exposed fastener metal roof that is rated down to a 1/12 pitch. It has very wide and deep channels and has a groove up near the top of the profile that acts as a capillary break. And the seams are caulked.

It's a very modern looking roof and we're very glad to have found it.
 
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ProMetalShop

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We stepped our cement in so the siding would go down over it so the rain water wouldn’t seep in. I would imagine a good sealer would work just as well.
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theoldwizard1

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SE MI
They have published clear instructions on how to build it yourself. You can see it here:

http://gamedayshed.familyhandyman.com/
That style has been around for awhile. Typically the area above where the garage door is has windows. This lets in a lot of light. If they open, the will vent hot air in summer.

It has a modern style which is consistent with the age of my home and is my favorite architectural style.
Good and bad news. Good because you like it and matches your other buildings. Bad because it limits storage space. My favorite design is a mini-barn with a gambrel roof. Lots of space up there !
 

gahrajmahal

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Dec 12, 2008
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Cincinnati, Ohio
All great advise so far. I'd use all pressure treated for the structure. LP smart side for the walls. Openable windows high on the garage door side of the structure. Reflective coated sheeting under the roofing, steel, roll roofing or shingles depending on the pitch. All PVC trim on the outside and plan on insulating the structure so it will be cooler / warmer depending on the season. If the garage door faces south, I'd also put in a full size skylight. Good lighting for free.
Maybe add surface style French drains around the slab to make sure the water drains away from the structure. Basically dig a ditch 12" deep, line with plastic sheet. Add perforated, fabric coated drain pipe leading away from the structure and cover with gravel. Dry shed is good. Wet shed is bad!
Don't let being a beginner deter you, just don't expect the project to follow any particular time frame. It takes as long as it takes. Watch some April Wilkerson you tube videos. An excellent novice but capable woman tackles construction projects. Funny, short and to the point videos.
 
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