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Milwaukee Stubby 1/2” or 3/8” help me decide.

SamHandyman

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I’ve been eyeing on the Milwaukee Stubby for a long time and pulled the trigger on the 3/8” version yesterday. After seeing various 1/2 vs 3/8 comments on YouTube videos on the Stubby, I see most people the buy the 3/8 version but then some people say if you have to get only one get the 1/2..

I’m a weekend warrior and I already have a Dewalt DCF899 1/2” large impact wrench and all of my impact sockets are 1/2”. I don’t mind buying 3/8” sockets if they’re smaller in profile or better... I see most 3/8 sets only go up to 19mm but some sets go up to 21mm..

Help me decide.... I already requested cancellation of the order so I can think about it.
 
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Buckgnarly

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3/8....why buy a stubby and NOT take advantage of smaller 3/8 sockets? I understand if you don't want to invest in sets of 3/8", but if you already have them and/or don't mind buying them, then it's obvious.
I am biased as my 3/8 impacts go up to 25mm.
 
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SamHandyman

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3/8....why buy a stubby and NOT take advantage of smaller 3/8 sockets? I understand if you don't want to invest in sets of 3/8", but if you already have them and/or don't mind buying them, then it's obvious.
I am biased as my 3/8 impacts go up to 25mm.

Thanks... the reason I ordered 3/8 was 7/10 people in those comments are buying 3/8 version.

I guess if I need 1/2 I always have my big Dewalt DCF899.
 

Craftfab

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In same situation, OP. Will be following this thread. Have a 1/2" impact now and leaning towards 1/2 m12" stubby at moment. But I do like this 3/8 sunex impact kit that would be handy. Currently all my impact sockets are 1/2 too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LNH7728/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I think if you don't foresee using it in tight spaces where the difference between a 3/8 and 1/2 impact socket will make a difference, then may be worth saving the extra money on new 3/8 sockets for just one tool.
 

Mr_B

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Both same besides anvil drive size so seems both only 250ft/lb thus limited to areas of use you might as well go 3/8 if happy get the 3/8 sockets, you want look at a rail set of stubby sockets too.
 

Wamsutta

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Being that you already have a 1/2" DeWalt, the choice is obvious.

You had it right the first time, but then cancelled your order.

Now you have to start the waiting period all over again.
 
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SamHandyman

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1/2 sockets often go down to 10mm whereas 3/8 will be harder to find in the larger sizes.

Mine is the 1/2 with pin detent.

But here’s the thing, I almost never use my 1/2 impact for bolts that are less than probably 13mm...those things I can just do with my hand or with an impact driver and for a bolt that’s bigger than what you can get in 3/8, let say 22mm or something, it almost always mean you need probably more than 250ft/lbs.
 

BroncoAZ

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In same situation, OP. Will be following this thread. Have a 1/2" impact now and leaning towards 1/2 m12" stubby at moment. But I do like this 3/8 sunex impact kit that would be handy. Currently all my impact sockets are 1/2 too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LNH7728/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I think if you don't foresee using it in tight spaces where the difference between a 3/8 and 1/2 impact socket will make a difference, then may be worth saving the extra money on new 3/8 sockets for just one tool.

I have both that Sunex 3/8” master kit you linked and the Astro Pneumatic Nano 3/8” sockets and will be ordering the M12 stubby in 3/8”. Here is a picture of the Sunex 1/2” vs AP 1/2” Nano vs Sunex 3/8” vs AP 3/8” Nano sockets. From left to right: 1.490”, 1.105”, 1.164”, .887”.

I already have the M18 mid torque in 1/2”. I’m trying to hold out on ordering the stubby until there is another 15% off eBay coupon, but sometimes I get impatient.

Anybody have opinions on which battery to buy for the stubby? I don’t have any M12 currently. The 2.0 battery is half the price of the 3.0 battery, I’d think the 2.0 should work fine and I could get 2 for $48. I also looked at the 6.0 battery, but I’d think the extended battery could make it harder to use the stubby in stubby places. The only other M12 tools I’m looking at are the dremel and the soldering iron.
 

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iWrench

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3/8....why buy a stubby and NOT take advantage of smaller 3/8 sockets? I understand if you don't want to invest in sets of 3/8", but if you already have them and/or don't mind buying them, then it's obvious.
I am biased as my 3/8 impacts go up to 25mm.

^^ This. Im an auto technician and my experience is this: Most of the time, smaller fasteners tend to be crammed into smaller areas, hence the use for a stubby 3/8" impact gun. Usually when I encounter larger sized nuts and bolts tightened to the point that I need a 1/2" impact, those fasteners are in places where there is enough space to fit a normal size 1/2" impact gun or long 1/2" ratchet. Of course there are times where this is not the case, but they are few and far between. My opinion: get the 3/8" version.
 
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HaroRider

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Im in the same boat. I rather have the 3/8, since I have a 1/2 gun already. They both make the same power correct?
 
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SamHandyman

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I’ve been eyeing on the Milwaukee Stubby for a long time and pulled the trigger on the 3/8” version yesterday. After seeing various 1/2 vs 3/8 comments on YouTube videos on the Stubby, I see most people the buy the 3/8 version but then some people say if you have to get only one get the 1/2..

I’m a weekend warrior and I already have a Dewalt DCF899 1/2” large impact wrench and all of my impact sockets are 1/2”. I don’t mind buying 3/8” sockets if they’re smaller in profile or better... I see most 3/8 sets only go up to 19mm but some sets go up to 21mm..

Help me decide.... I already requested cancellation of the order so I can think about it.

Im in the same boat. I rather have the 3/8, since I have a 1/2 gun already. They both make the same power correct?
Yes both at 250ft/lbs
 
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SamHandyman

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^^ This. Im an auto technician and my experience is this: Most of the time, smaller fasteners tend to be crammed into smaller areas, hence the use for a stubby 3/8" impact gun. Usually when I encounter larger sized nuts and bolts tightened to the point that I need a 1/2" impact, those fasteners are in places where there is enough space to fit a normal size 1/2" impact gun or long 1/2" ratchet. Of course there are times where this is not the case, but they are few and far between. My opinion: get the 3/8" version.

Thanks it seems like most are getting the 3/8.
 

Tallpilot

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That's a great picture BroncoAZ, thanks! I only have 1/2" impacts (Milwaukee high torque and mid torque, Astro Nano). If you have air the Nano is far more useful since it has so much more torque than the Milwaukee. I have regular 1/2" impact sockets, swivels and Sunex Nano. I haven't found a place yet where it wouldn't fit but 2/10" smaller and it would have made it.

Either way if you don't have stubby impact sockets you will want some so pick a drive size and go for it.
 

Fedwrench

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it depends on what you work on. I work on a fleet of cars, light trucks, and SUVs/crossovers. For me the best choice is the stubby 3/8. Cramped engine compartment, more upper engines with plastic components, smaller fasteners overall, and a very wide range of impact sockets to fit most sizes made the 3/8 the logical choice for me.:beer:
 

Skin

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Im in the same boat. I rather have the 3/8, since I have a 1/2 gun already. They both make the same power correct?

Yes and no. Bigger anvil means better torque transfer. No idea why Milwaukee started to ignore it but generally any manufacturer that makes a 1/2" "compact" impact uprates it despite being a 1/2" anvil in the 3/8" body. If the 3/8" can put out an honest 250 the 1/2" will do at least 10% higher all else being equal.

I bought the 3/8" for what its worth for reasons already being stated. Im not planning on removing big rig lugs or crank bolts with it, just general assembly/disassembly. The torque limited mode should be good for small stuff too that 1/2" generally doesn't cover.
 
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SamHandyman

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Here is why I think some people prefer 1/2” over the 3/8.

The videos on YouTube show it to be extremely capable, lug nuts no problem at all, I imagine it will work for some suspension bolts as well... since it’s so capable then it would make sense maybe for the 1/2”.

It’s harder to find bigger size in 3/8 set, most 3/8 sets only go up to 19mm. It’s not hard to find 21/22/23 in 3/8.

For under the hood smaller bolts I feel like I can use an impact driver most of the time or my fuel ratchet.

Tough call.....
 

sberry

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I use 1/2. I like all the sockets the same drive and can make it work. I got a lot already and don't want another layer of sockets in a well organized scheme.
 
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CR888

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I agree with those who say its a stubby (small compact impact), so keep it small and able to function its purpose the best way it can. Its 250ftlbs not 1250! If it was twice the power+ I'd consider 1/2" but its not. There is a noticeable size difference between 1/2" sockets & 3/8" so why not set it up with the most capability? Its a simple choice IMO.
 

550_cord

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I got the 3/8 stubby and some astro nano sockets. Works out great for tight spots!
 

Mr_B

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I agree with those who say its a stubby (small compact impact), so keep it small and able to function its purpose the best way it can. Its 250ftlbs not 1250! If it was twice the power+ I'd consider 1/2" but its not. There is a noticeable size difference between 1/2" sockets & 3/8" so why not set it up with the most capability? Its a simple choice IMO.

Exactly my thoughts, if 400-500ft/lb 1/2 would be ideal but as mainly going be lighter use 3/8 be more useful with slimmer/shorter sockets and extensions.
1/2" still be okay if don't want extra 3/8 sockets and want keep it minimal you just get the AP stubby 1/2 sockets and call it good enough .
 

kctyphoon

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3/8 is the most common drive size people use, especially if you’re not a pro working on trade specific items.. I’d def stay 3/8 if it were me. If you want another angle, how many large fasteners do you actually encounter that require a 1/2 drive socket, that dont allow room for a larger impact like the mid torque, or you cant just as easily put a ratchet on and break free first?

That said - nothing is stopping you from using a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter if you do have the room. The guns (if i remember) are rated at the same torque spec, and your not going to lose “that much” real world torque by using a short adapter that it’s gonna change your life..

I mean the only time I’ve really needed to use 1/2” drive sockets is when i was working on something that impact wouldn’t break free anyway.. when the stubby’s jump up to 400ft lbs, then i think you’ll have a better reason - but everyone will be patiently waiting awhile for that day to come.
 
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2manytools

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3/8 is the most common drive size people use, especially if you’re not a pro working on trade specific items.. I’d def stay 3/8 if it were me. If you want another angle, how many large fasteners do you actually encounter that require a 1/2 drive socket, that dont allow room for a larger impact like the mid torque, or you cant just as easily put a ratchet on and break free first?

That said - nothing is stopping you from using a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter if you do have the room. The guns (if i remember) are rated at the same torque spec, and your not going to lose “that much” real world torque by using a short adapter that it’s gonna change your life..

I mean the only time I’ve really needed to use 1/2” drive sockets is when i was working on something that impact wouldn’t break free anyway.. when the stubby’s jump up to 400ft lbs, then i think you’ll have a better reason - but everyone will be patiently waiting awhile for that day to come.


Sort of along that same thinking, I went the 1/2" route, figuring I'd use an adapter to 3/8." I even have the GW 3/8" impact set alrady, but thought 1/2" would give me more adapter options. Well mainly the 1/2" to 7/16" hex. We are putting up a fence consisting of old telephone poles, and need to use an auger bit most likely to get through them. Figured I'd love doing that with the little stubby, more so than with the opposite end of the spectrum 2863 HT. I don't see myself walking the field with that on my hip.

But after reading your post, sort of wishing I went 3/8". I got a mid-torque 1/2" on clearance at HD, but thought I'd sell that if I got the 1/2" stubby. Not that I didn't want all 3 wrenches, it is making more sense that I keep them all :drool: Maybe I'll call Acme & see if I can swap, have to already as they took away my 15% discount when they re-rang it without tax. Probably my last order with them, the way things are run there.

Zoro: no more Milwaukee discount
CPO: raises prices/removes items when eBay has a 20% coupon
Acme: ships more brown boxes & catalogs than product (and screwed my 15% discount up)
Toolup, Tool Barn, Tools Plus, Great Lakes Power Tools: happy so far
 
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Tonyuk

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All but 1 of my impacts are 1/2". Generally for electrics the tool is the exact same for the 3/8 & 1/2 version, only the anvil is different, the 1/2" is usually rated slightly higher for power too.

These new Milwaukee compacts are the first electric impacts that i've seen that i would actually call compact. My best impact is a facom micro 1/2", its smaller than my Milwaukee 1/2" and puts out around 800nm. That paired with some low profile sockets will get you into more places than most 3/8" electric impacts will.

I have one of those snap-on 3/8 impacts with the dual trigger, its nice for working on smaller stuff inside the cab etc.. but i wouldn't call it essential.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Facom-NS...546023&hash=item4d5644c945:g:0cQAAOSw4CFYz7Dg

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/US-PRO-1...737006&hash=item23832b36a7:g:7DwAAOSwE0JY~2Vh
 
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Mr_B

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^
+1
That Facom is amazing and price is even more amazing, throw a eBay coupon on that and it crazy cheap . With over 110psi dynamic working line pressure that impact performs over rated figures with ease .
Those sockets not bad either, That same as Astro design and very useful as can be paired with wrench/ratchet wrench in tight clearance spots .
 
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winlinmac

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Anytime you have to decide between these two sizes and even 1/4", best to go with 3/8", can always with reducers / adapters in the long run
 

mrjaw14

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I think the Astro nano sockets are a great idea and would increase the utility of a stubby gun over regular size sockets.

If you don’t have chrome, the grey pneumatic duo thin wall sockets can be used with a ratchet or an impact
 

CR888

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Everyone should own a facom nano. With the prices people pay for poorly spec'd cordless impacts, the Nano miester is a no brainer @$200ish. Cordless impacts have gotten so much market attention as the tech has evolved big time in recent years but quietly behind the scenes the pneumatics have greatly improved too. But this thread is about Milwaukee's new stubby which is a fine new design well worth owning. To be honest while I'd get it in 3/8 its not a disaster in 1/2" with the compact sockets available, but 250lb's will be gentle to 3/8 socketey.
 

theoldwizard1

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3/8....why buy a stubby and NOT take advantage of smaller 3/8 sockets? I understand if you don't want to invest in sets of 3/8", but if you already have them and/or don't mind buying them, then it's obvious.
I am biased as my 3/8 impacts go up to 25mm.

When the first gen M12 Fuel 3/8" impact came out I bought it. I also bought a complete (minus swivel) SAE and metric impact socket set even though I am fairly certain my old Craftsman chrome sockets would handle it.

Sunex 3325 and 3329 get you most if the way there.


I do know, if I was starting over, I probably wouldn't buy ANY 1/2" drive sockets or ratchets. Maybe a 1/2" breaker bar and a 1/2" to 3/8" impact adapter.
 
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SamHandyman

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Ok guys, I reordered the 3/8 version. 1/2” is fine, this impact is pretty capable. But since 3/8 can go up to 24mm then it’s obvious 3/8 gives you more “usable” range of sockets for people working on their own cars and general around the house stuff. The smaller 1/2” impact sockets are too bulky, I never use them, I just do it with a regular socket and a hand ratchet. A lot of times I find smaller 1/2” sockets although fit on bolts but the surrounding protrusion hinders them so you can’t use them.

And I can always adapt-up if required... I might lose little bit of torque with the adapter but I don’t think it’s that significant compared to an extension and I always have my 1/2” 1200ft-lbs wrench. VCG guy on YouTube was able to remove highly torque lug nuts with an adapter so I think 3/8 is the way to go.

If this was a mid-torque, definitely I would get the 1/2”.
 
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Tonyuk

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Ok guys, I reordered the 3/8 version. 1/2” is fine, this impact is pretty capable. But since 3/8 can go up to 24mm then it’s obvious 3/8 gives you more “usable” range of sockets for people working on their own cars and general around the house stuff. The smaller 1/2” impact sockets are too bulky, I never use them, I just do it with a regular socket and a hand ratchet. A lot of times I find smaller 1/2” sockets although fit on bolts but the surrounding protrusion hinders them so you can’t use them.

And I can always adapt-up if required... I might lose little bit of torque with the adapter but I don’t think it’s that significant compared to an extension and I always have my 1/2” 1200ft-lbs wrench. VCG guy on YouTube was able to remove highly torque lug nuts with an adapter so I think 3/8 is the way to go.

If this was a mid-torque, definitely I would get the 1/2”.

What kind of sockets are you using?

It doesn't often make a massive difference but i would recommend fully necked impacts rather than those that just have a bit of taper, it lets them reach down into a recess a bit better.
 

Craftfab

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The Sunex 3580 3/8 master impact socket set is 9% off (saves $14.05) on Amzon right now if you need a set for your new stubby.
 

BroncoAZ

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The Sunex 3580 3/8 master impact socket set is 9% off (saves $14.05) on Amzon right now if you need a set for your new stubby.

I got mine off eBay with a 15% off coupon back in July, paid $136. That $146 on Amazon gets another $10 in tax added for me.
 

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kctyphoon

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Sort of along that same thinking, I went the 1/2" route, figuring I'd use an adapter to 3/8." I even have the GW 3/8" impact set alrady, but thought 1/2" would give me more adapter options. Well mainly the 1/2" to 7/16" hex. We are putting up a fence consisting of old telephone poles, and need to use an auger bit most likely to get through them. Figured I'd love doing that with the little stubby, more so than with the opposite end of the spectrum 2863 HT. I don't see myself walking the field with that on my hip.

But after reading your post, sort of wishing I went 3/8". I got a mid-torque 1/2" on clearance at HD, but thought I'd sell that if I got the 1/2" stubby. Not that I didn't want all 3 wrenches, it is making more sense that I keep them all :drool: Maybe I'll call Acme & see if I can swap, have to already as they took away my 15% discount when they re-rang it without tax. Probably my last order with them, the way things are run there.

Zoro: no more Milwaukee discount
CPO: raises prices/removes items when eBay has a 20% coupon
Acme: ships more brown boxes & catalogs than product (and screwed my 15% discount up)
Toolup, Tool Barn, Tools Plus, Great Lakes Power Tools: happy so far

The 1/2 mid torque has about the same specs as the the Milwaukee high torque 7/16 hex drive impact.. the hex drive high torque is detuned as far as ratings go. Depending on what type and class of pole your drilling through, that m12 gun wont be winning any races, and the battery will drain pretty quickly.

The 7/16 Milwaukee is all i use at work. I have the gen1 high torque and mid torque at home.. i have the shockwave 7/16 hex to 1/2” square adapter too, and have been wanting to try the mid torque on an auger bit just for the hell of it.

As far as auger bit go, and ill get accused of being a fanboy - but the honest truth is the newer Milwaukee shockwave lineman auger bits are the best I’ve used. Drill fast and leave clean holes.

Ill go out on a limb and guess the 7/16 gun benefits for 2 reasons not being rated as high is the 1/2”. It probably improves longevity, and keeps idiots from snapping bolt on the smaller hardware used. The industrial corded IR’s i have i think are rated at about 350ftlbs, so the 500 or so from the Milwaukee is a big improvement, esp with the new Milwaukee bits..

Not saying the m12 WONT work.. but if you’re drilling a lot of holes I’d keep extra batteries close by. If its not a pin detent model impact you have, I wouldn’t be surprised if the bit and adapter come off a few times when pulling the bit out of the hole.

Once the hole is drilled, i usually throw the gun in reverse, and hold the gun tight to the pole. The bit will force the chips out the back of the pole, and then while in reverse it’ll help you keep the bit/adapter attached to the gun when you back it out, if its not a detent anvil.
 
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