Anyone else run Mobil1 0w-30 Synthetic oil in their compressor?

IQRaceworks · Nov 10, 2018

I've had my Quincey 325 compressor for around 5 years no (bought it used and rebuilt it). I've always ran straight ND 30wt oil in it. During the summer, it's great....fires up, builds on pressure in a few seconds, and runs great.

But in the winter when the temps in my shop are down around freezing or below, whenever I would go out and turn the compressor on, the oil was so thick it would really tax the motor trying to turn the pump, and it would run for a good 30 seconds or so before it would start to build oil pressure.......the oil is go thick it takes a while to get it through the system.

So I recently changed the oil over to Mobil1 0W-30 full synthetic. Wow, what a difference. When it's warn out it instantly builds pressure, and this morning when it was 13 degrees out, it fired right up and made oil pressure almost instantly. I'm very impressed.

Now I know people say that if you run multi grade viscosity oil with detergents in it (pretty much all automotive oils) it's bad for the compressors because the particles in the oil don't settle out in the sump, and if you don't have an oil filter (my 325 doesn't) it's bad for it.

Well, the way I look at it is like this.........what's worse, running with NO oil pressure when it's cold out, or getting instant oil pressure? For someone who doesn't use their compressor very much (probably less than 4 hours of run time a year)...I think it's a good choice.

So....anyone else run this in their air compressors?

Boilerhouse · Nov 10, 2018

One of the manufacturer recommended oil grades for my compressor is Mobile 1 10W 30. It's nothing special, a 5 HP 2 cy, single stage, 60 gal Campbell Hausfeld. And if you are having issues when it's cold, it's either heat the shop all the time or find some other work around. Sometimes you just have to do what you have to do.

dnschmidt · Nov 10, 2018

Amsoil makes synthetic compressor oil. My Quincy uses 40wt but you could never tell this stuff was 40wt because it's so thin regardless of temperature. Synthetic oils don't thicken up at low temperatures. That's why they are so great for you car and why they are great for use in an air compressor.

All · Nov 10, 2018

I always use synthetic oil in my compressors, but it is labeled synthetic air compressor oil, not internal combustion engine oil.

Not being smart enough to know all the reasons why air compressor manufacturers of every brand always warn in the user manual, in bold print, and in numerous places, not to use engine oil, and to only use non detergent anti foaming air compressor oil... and not being rich enough to donate my own equipment in the cause to find out why... I just follow the instructions.

But I've always been curious, so I'm also following this thread to read about whatever you may end up learning from your experience.

rlitman · Nov 10, 2018

All said:
...Not being smart enough to know all the reasons why air compressor manufacturers of every brand always warn in the user manual.../QUOTE]

Actually, I’ve seen several user manuals call specifically for Mobil 1 5w30. The only manuals I’ve seen that imply you must use synthetic compressor oil, are from **** brands (CH comes to mind) that sell ludicrously overpriced quarts with their names printed on them.

There are of course some exceptions, but for a ring sealed reciprocating piston pump, synthetic motor oil is just fine. Detergent dinosaur oil is known to cause carbon buildup among other issues.

lis2323 · Nov 10, 2018

This should make you all feel better about the cost of compressor oil.

I just picked up a used Quincy rotary screw compressor yesterday.

It came with not quite two full pails of synthetic oil.

The original invoice:

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cherrybomb · Nov 10, 2018

I too run designated Amsoil air compressor oil,although any synethic oil is probably going to do no harm.

PT Doc · Nov 10, 2018

I would contact Quincy. Tell them what you have and what the issue and see what the mothership tells you. Just cause someone on here uses it, it might not be the best choice for your compressor.

66HertzClone · Nov 11, 2018

It's my understanding that non-detergent oil is specified because there is no oil filter or pump just splash lubrication in most compressors. A detergent oil holds any dirt in suspension to be removed by the filter. Non-detergent oils allow the dirt to "sink" to the bottom keeping it out of where is shouldn't go.

toplessHO · Nov 11, 2018

I went to a local compressor dealer/rebuilder that Ive delt with for over 45 yr.
Bought a gal of their synthetic compressor oil. He claims its not the same as engine oil

I have a 6.5 HP 2 stage devilbiss

d.mcfarland · Nov 11, 2018

Amsoil straight weight for me. Works fine for my garage at any temps.

LB-1911 · Nov 11, 2018

PT Doc said:
I would contact Quincy. Tell them what you have and what the issue and see what the mothership tells you. Just cause someone on here uses it, it might not be the best choice for your compressor.

^

1foxracing said:
Mobil 1 10W-30, it's recommended for mine.

bsaint · Nov 11, 2018

Generally a non detergent is better because detergents do not let debris settle to the bottom of the crankcase. I use ISO 100 R&O oils for recip pumps.

mark883 · Nov 11, 2018

The guys who answered non-detergent oil are correct. But I doubt that a regularly changed motor oil will destroy a home-use compressor. But if I had a new $20,000+ 24/5 running compressor, I'd probably follow the manual.

Ign · Nov 12, 2018

66HertzClone said:
It's my understanding that non-detergent oil is specified because there is no oil filter or pump just splash lubrication in most compressors. A detergent oil holds any dirt in suspension to be removed by the filter. Non-detergent oils allow the dirt to "sink" to the bottom keeping it out of where is shouldn't go.

bsaint said:
Generally a non detergent is better because detergents do not let debris settle to the bottom of the crankcase. I use ISO 100 R&O oils for recip pumps.

The OP said exactly this in Post #1 LOL

Davefr · Nov 12, 2018

bsaint said:
Generally a non detergent is better because detergents do not let debris settle to the bottom of the crankcase. I use ISO 100 R&O oils for recip pumps.

Where's all this debris coming from? As long as the air filter(s) are in good condition, I can't see why it's important for the oil to be non detergent based.

tdkkart · Nov 12, 2018

lis2323 said:
This should make you all feel better about the cost of compressor oil.

That's not too bad, I used to change out some vacuum pump oil that was $1400/gallon REFURBISHED, the new stuff was something like $2200/gallon.

lis2323 · Nov 12, 2018

tdkkart said:
That's not too bad, I used to change out some vacuum pump oil that was $1400/gallon REFURBISHED, the new stuff was something like $2200/gallon.

Yikes!

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redmondjp · Nov 13, 2018

I traded a 7HP 80 gallon two-stage Big Red Air Compressor (SnapOn) to my mechanic earlier this year in partial payment for some engine work. It's been running on Mobil 1 5w-30 oil for the past year. I just checked the oil last weekend when I was there and it looks just fine - no signs of water or contaminants.

I'm going to switch my other compressors over to Mobil 1 as well, since they are in unheated spaces and have difficulty starting during the winter months.

Ike4160 · Nov 13, 2018

I have been running Mobile 1 synthetic 10w 30 for the last ten years in my speedaire compressor without any issues. Compressor lives in an unheated garage and is always on.

apdxyk · Nov 14, 2018

If it's a PAG or PAK base oil, you may regret using ICE oils

bsaint · Nov 19, 2018

Davefr said:
Where's all this debris coming from? As long as the air filter(s) are in good condition, I can't see why it's important for the oil to be non detergent based.

How good do you think your six dollar air filter is on your compressor lol? I changed mine over to hepa.

The debris comes from wear in the pump.

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Zeke · Nov 28, 2018

apdxyk said:
If it's a PAG or PAK base oil, you may regret using ICE oils

I don't know your acronyms. Maybe not so fancy so us lay persons can understand.

My problem: last year I changed my compressor oil that had never been changed that I know of. I got this Speedaire used in nice condition, older but not used much.

I used some 30w ND that I had in the cabinet and the pump knocks on start up even at 70º. It never knocked on the old oil no matter what the temps. Now just the other day it stopped knocking after a few seconds but I could hear an intermittent knock until it started to build some pressure and warm up.

What would you do? I have some Mobil 1 5w-30 on hand.

sberry · Nov 28, 2018

Put it in.

clubairth · Nov 28, 2018

Another vote for mobile 1 synthetic motor oil. Perfect in all cold-weather, very low drag on the compressor also.
I change mine about once a year? Does anybody else?

Seems like cheap insurance .
.
.
.

lis2323 · Nov 28, 2018

sberry said:
Put it in.

“That’s what she said!”

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rlitman · Nov 28, 2018

apdxyk said:
If it's a PAG or PAK base oil, you may regret using ICE oils

Zeke said:
I don't know your acronyms. Maybe not so fancy so us lay persons can understand...

PAG stands for polyalkylene-glycol. It is a hydroscopic synthetic oil (similar to brake fluid) that is primarily used in air conditioner compressors. It is NOT found in synthetic motor oils, but would likely be bad news if used to lubricate an air compressor.

PAK is a seemingly random set of three letters he came up with when bashing his keyboard.

ICE stands for Internal Combustion Engine. ICE oils are not made from PAG or PAK.

gungatim · Nov 28, 2018

my homeowner grade compressor (5hp 60 gal single stage) does not have an oil pump so I have never experienced the "slow to build oil pressure" issue in the cold. I just use whatever regular 5w30 oil I have on hand and change it annually.

i'm no expert, but it seems to me that since there is no combustion, only compression, there would be a lot less "dirt" escaping the rings and making it into the oil. no fuel, not as much heat, no cam, lifters, valves, timing chain, etc. Less moving parts to wear and a more consistent load.

if regular detergent motor oil is good enough for a lawnmower with splash lube and no filter, it's got to be good enough for a simple air compressor...

redmondjp · Nov 28, 2018

Zeke said:
I used some 30w ND that I had in the cabinet and the pump knocks on start up even at 70º. It never knocked on the old oil no matter what the temps. Now just the other day it stopped knocking after a few seconds but I could hear an intermittent knock until it started to build some pressure and warm up.

What would you do? I have some Mobil 1 5w-30 on hand.

If you have a knocking sound at startup, with no pressure in the tank, then you have a worn rod bearing or wrist pin. As the pressure builds up in the tank, the pressure in the cylinder increases which holds the piston down against the loose parts so there is no relative motion between them, causing the knocking to go away. This is one good test to perform when inspecting a used compressor for sale.

rwa2004 · Nov 28, 2018

Am I nuts for not thinking of changing air compressor oil every year? What is the real reason for needing to change the oil?

Wouldn't transmission fluid work great seeing that it does not have the detergent?
Wouldn't the demand on the oil be very similar to a transmission?

I was always under the mindset that they biggest killer of car/truck engine oil is the carbon from combustion and dirt pulled in from road driving. Many thousands of cars have lived 20 years and 200,000 miles on their original transmission fluid. I have worked on gearcase designs where the gear and bearing loads were high enough to calculate breaking down oil, but I don't think an air compressor has that.

Would I be strung from a tree if I suggested putting synthetic oil in your compressor (for those less than 15h.p.) and just check to make sure it is full regularly?

GrayFlattop · Nov 28, 2018

I would not use any transmission fluid in a compressor. The functional requirements of the oils are completely different.

As stated multiple times above, non-detergent oil or synthetic compressor oil would be my first choice. If it's home use and you change it often, you are probably perfectly fine with a quality synthetic motor oil.

We buy synthetic compressor oil in bulk 55 gallon drums at work, but you can buy pints of a synthetic blend at Home Depot. Probably nowhere as good as the megabuck Sullair 24kt oil, but the price is a lot friendlier:

Zeke · Nov 29, 2018

redmondjp said:
If you have a knocking sound at startup, with no pressure in the tank, then you have a worn rod bearing or wrist pin. As the pressure builds up in the tank, the pressure in the cylinder increases which holds the piston down against the loose parts so there is no relative motion between them, causing the knocking to go away. This is one good test to perform when inspecting a used compressor for sale.

Yes, I realize that something is worn but it didn't do that before. So, I'm wondering the wisdom of a multi grade oil which is thin at cold temps. I'm in SoCal and the coldest it will ever get is 40º. Thinking I ought to go heavier like an old car engine.

rlitman · Nov 29, 2018

Zeke said:
... So, I'm wondering the wisdom of a multi grade oil which is thin at cold temps...

I think you're missing the point. Multi-grade oils are not thinner when they are cold. They are just thinner than their single-weight counterparts at colder temperatures. They're still far thinner when hot. The difference is in the "Viscosity Index".

sberry · Nov 29, 2018

Not really. The thicker for older comes from ,,, well less than informed in most cases. Thinner works better for most engines and comps too, splashes so much easier and scrapes down from cylinder walls so much easier.
I cant remember all I read and it doesn't much matter anyway to follow directions but,,,,,,, ND lets more stuff drop vs dissolve it and hold it in suspension, there is no carbon to dissolve here, no additives needed to clean in the same fashion and I believe some of those even stick up and around some of the valves and the like if I am not mistaken. This is all generalization but the mfg recommends what they do for a reason within given parameters. Thinner oil especially at lower temps cant help but be better, not having parts slugging thru thick stuff. Simply lets it all turn easier.

sberry · Nov 29, 2018

My buds are compressor mechanics, don't recall them talking oil change on their home comps. I have seen oil in them looks new and 40 years old. Some older and modern oil is wayyyyyy better. Mine runs every day and I am on the 10 year plan, a couple of them will never get a change.

Shiftless · Nov 29, 2018

It seems to me that if the only problem with cold weather performance is being cold, why even think about heating the whole garage to keep the oil in your compressor warm? Just put an incandescent bulb in one of these and put it up close to keep your oil nice and toasty. Adjust wattage to attain the desired temperature.

dirtydogintex · Nov 29, 2018

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ingersoll-rand-all-season-select-oil-1-liter

FWIW IR doubles the warranty on new consumer style recip compressors when this syn oil is used.
It is not recommended to be used in a recip pump with bunches of hours on dino oil.
There are also generic versions at a lower unit cost but it’s usually in much larger containers than 1 qt bottles.

TSC’s price is a good one on a very serviceable oil.

Zeke · Nov 30, 2018

rlitman said:
I think you're missing the point. Multi-grade oils are not thinner when they are cold. They are just thinner than their single-weight counterparts at colder temperatures. They're still far thinner when hot. The difference is in the "Viscosity Index".

That's all I was inferring. I have not seen anywhere that a manufacturer recommend multi viscosity oil. I probably jumped to a conclusion, but it was more of a question.

sberry · Nov 30, 2018

They make crank heaters for comps. But,,, it doesnt hurt to keep the rest of it above freezing either. If it runs much it will warm up but it doesnt do them any good to have moisture freezing, modified drains etc and general fatigue that increases with cold temps.

Anyone else run Mobil1 0w-30 Synthetic oil in their compressor?

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