Identifying a Snap-on torque wrench

We have a Snap-on click-type 20 - 250# torque wrench QRJ3250A, which came back from a calibration request with the notation, "Handle parts no longer available. Cannot be calibrated."

Can we estimate how old is this wrench and why Snap-on isn't supporting a relatively current design?

A search turned up detailed information on how to calibrate other Snap-on torque wrenches, but not this model. Any links?

jack vines

I thought they just adjusted the Allen plug in the end to calibrate them.

Is there a date code on the ratchet head by the selector? My guess is early 90's

Good eye! It appears to be the style "3" which would correspond to 1993.

To us old tool guys, a 25-year-old torque wrench is just barely broken in. Wonder why they no longer support it?

jack vines

Maybe get it checked before you try to calibrate it. It shouldn't be hard to do if you have a known good. Maybe you get lucky and it's still within tolerance.

QJR3250A is on page 158 of the 1990 catalog. 30-250 lb. ft.

Relatively current design?

Just buying a new $400 torque wrench is NOT the GJ way ;>)

These were and still are made by Precision Instruments, so yes, it's a current design:

Exclusive Patented Calibration Mechanism-This patented mechanism allows for calibration in both the clockwise and counter-clockwise directions, plus with regard to spring rate, without the disassembly of the wrench. This protects against contamination of the working mechanism, and make calibration quick and easy. . . calibration is completely external, unlike traditional mechanism that require disassembly and the replacement of blocks and shims.

Click to expand...

Yeah, thanks for that, but a determined search didn't uncover the how; so since this one was no good as is, I figured nothing to loose by a bit of fettling.

There was a soft steel plug in the center of the end of the handle. That could be pried out. Underneath is an Allen head nut. When that is removed, the hand grip and scale can be pulled off the shaft.

Upon examination, an externally splined nut on the threaded adjusting screw matches the internally splined handle. Thus, it is possible to remove and rotate the handle any portion of one full turn to adjust the indicator lines versus the scale.

However, that one turn didn't bring it into calibration. Further examination showed the internally splined portion of the handle could be moved laterally within the main part of the hand grip. This is what Snap-on was referring to as the handle being bad.

By tapping the internally splined part slightly back up into the hand grip and then using the one turn of the handle I was able to calibrate the click to the scale.

The problem is if it can be tapped in, it can also move back out. First thought is red Loctite. Plan B is drill and tap for a set screw. Plan C, according to the net, this unit was made and widely sold by Precision Instrument with other than Snap-on ratchet heads. Because those don't have the magic logo, they're cheap to buy. Maybe one of those has a different design handle which would interchange.

jack vines

snyder said:

I thought they just adjusted the Allen plug in the end to calibrate them.

Click to expand...

Turns out to be a bit more complicated that that. The Allen nut doesn't adjust anything. Removing it allows the handgrip to be removed and rotated to change the relationship of the two scales.

Once I got sufficiently confident to drive out the internally splined plug from the bottom of the handgrip, it was obvious the two spot welds supposed to lock it in place had broken.

My initial fix was to drill and tap two holes for 10-32 set screws to replace the spot welds.

I drove the plug back into the bottom of the handle, testing as I went for position. It needed to be .115" below the end of the handgrip.

I tightened the two set screws and then used the "remove and rotate" function as originally designed to fine tune the setting.

For now, it's back in service.

jack vines

You probably just need to find a calibration lab that has a pool of spare parts. TeamTorque might have some.

Wamsutta said:

You probably just need to find a calibration lab that has a pool of spare parts. TeamTorque might have some.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion. Turns out, in today's market, the perfectly adequate micrometer torque wrenches are like corded power tools - so few want them, they're going for cheap. Seems today everyone wants digital/split beam.

Bottom line - when I checked with the independent torque labs, the cost of shipping both ways, calibration and a new handgrip exceeds the market value of the twenty-five-year-old Snap-on torque wrench.

Anyhow, my home repair and calibration will be adequate for wheels and other casual use.

jack vines

I have that same wrench.

red61cj5 said:

I have that same wrench.

Click to expand...

A quick survey on eBay shows the 3200 series (30 - 200 lbs/ft) to be more common than our 3500 series.

I can't remember anything I work on ever needing 250# of torque.

jack vines

Did they tell you the whole grip needs to be replaced?

Wamsutta said:

Did they tell you the whole grip needs to be replaced?

Click to expand...

Yes, the assembly is spot welded and then pressed together.

jack vines

Packard V8 said:

Yes, the assembly is spot welded and then pressed together.

jack vines

Click to expand...

Most of the age on a torque wrench is shown by the knurled grip. If you were to replace the grip and then rebuild the ratchet head with a new dust cover, your torque wrench would pretty much look brand new.

I have a Snap-On QD3R250. I have looked in all the usual places - by the model number, under the selector switch, etc. I can't find a date code anywhere. Can anyone help with dating this thing?