Air compressor oil?

ATC · Feb 14, 2019

I bought a Curtis compressor a few years ago, and I'm just now getting around to hooking it up. I think it's a early/mid-2000's model E35....5HP Baldor, cast-iron 2-stage pump, 60-gal tank. Since it's been sitting a while, and I don't know how the previous owners maintained it, I want to at least change the oil before I run it.

In the manual, the "approved" oils listed are either no longer made (can't find them) or only come in a 5-gal bucket or a 55-gal drum.

Are compressor oils kinda like automotive engine oil? Meaning as long as they are the same weight, the brand doesn't matter much? Can I use any non-detergent synthetic compressor oil? I just want to find a couple quarts locally to fill it.

vssjim · Feb 14, 2019

ATC said:
I bought a Curtis compressor a few years ago, and I'm just now getting around to hooking it up. I think it's a early/mid-2000's model E35....5HP Baldor, cast-iron 2-stage pump, 60-gal tank. Since it's been sitting a while, and I don't know how the previous owners maintained it, I want to at least change the oil before I run it.

In the manual, the "approved" oils listed are either no longer made (can't find them) or only come in a 5-gal bucket or a 55-gal drum.

Are compressor oils kinda like automotive engine oil? Meaning as long as they are the same weight, the brand doesn't matter much? Can I use any non-detergent synthetic compressor oil? I just want to find a couple quarts locally to fill it.

I’m sure everybody goes crazy about compressor oils but if you change it every year you are doing more than 99 percent of the people do. So I am with you if you change it with something like engine oil once a year you are doing great
If you want to get compressor oil that is easily available that is Milton as amazon and eBay does have this listed and you can get it on quarts I have bought it before

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vssjim · Feb 14, 2019

vssjim said:
I’m sure everybody goes crazy about compressor oils but if you change it every year you are doing more than 99 percent of the people do. So I am with you if you change it with something like engine oil once a year you are doing great
If you want to get compressor oil that is easily available that is Milton as amazon and eBay does have this listed and you can get it on quarts I have bought it before

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To add part numbers Milton 1002-32 quarts 1002 gallons

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Mr_B · Feb 14, 2019

I would use any half decent iso68 30W non detergent compressor oil you can get locally .

The Cobbler · Feb 14, 2019

I would not use detergent oils, but any non detergent would be fine.
and I think any compressor synthetic oil would be a bonus.
just stay to the recommended weight

sberry · Feb 14, 2019

I am a fan of synth comp oil. If the oil in it is now sparkling clean its good, If you change it out now with a modern synthetic comp oil it can be good for the life of the unit,,, at least a LONG time. I am on a 10 year schedule if I think of it and mine runs daily.
I saw some 40 years old, oil looks new yet. Modern oil is even better, way better.

OccupantRJ · Feb 14, 2019

I just bought a gallon of SAE 30 non detergent from Tractor Supply for $9.99 on sale Monday.

matt_i · Feb 14, 2019

I would use Mobil Rarus which is formulated for such. Can buy in quarts and gallon sizes.

More study on the viscosity would be needed.

Bretny · Feb 14, 2019

I have been useing amsoil "iso100 air compressor oil" its been 8 or 9 years.

lis2323 · Feb 14, 2019

This is what’s spec’d for my Quincy rotary screw

Around $500 for a 20 litre pail.

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sberry · Feb 14, 2019

I like the Amsoil or even Royal Purple for the simple fact its easy to get, lots of parts stores carry it. There must be some advantage as some comps change the duty cycle rating when synth is used. Another reason,,, its normally such a small amount and lasts so long that the cost difference is rather moot.

Brand X · Feb 14, 2019

I have ran this for 20 years in my Curtis compressor. E-50 pump.. Never found a reason to change brands /type No hydro carbons to bake onto the disk valve is a plus.. Meaning no cleaning them..

https://www.pacificaircompressors.c...-full-synthetic-reciprocating-compressor-oil/

sberry · Feb 14, 2019

Ya,,, look at the hour rating on some of those. 8k. Tose and some others might even be better than that but they got to sell new oil sometime. A lot of homebody types see 100-200 hrs a year could take 40 to 75 years for some of them to make the change cycle,,, ha If it ran 24/7 would be once a year. I was being generous with those numbers too,,, bet a good share of home users rarely see an hour run a week.

sberry · Feb 14, 2019

I bet that rotary will live just as long on oil from Shell or Cheveron at 75 a bucket and a filter that cost 15 from Wix too.

sberry · Feb 14, 2019

More study on the viscosity would be needed.

How much more study would we need to do to put oil in a common compressor? While there might be a pinch of difference between off the shelf dino and a hi dollar synthetic its not going to be earth shattering in a used Curtis compressor.

lis2323 · Feb 14, 2019

sberry said:
I bet that rotary will live just as long on oil from Shell or Cheveron at 75 a bucket and a filter that cost 15 from Wix too.

I’m quite certain you are right. All stuff from the spare parts inventory from the previous owner so I’m good for life.

The Tool Tyrant · Feb 14, 2019

sberry said:
I like the Amsoil or even Royal Purple for the simple fact its easy to get, lots of parts stores carry it. There must be some advantage as some comps change the duty cycle rating when synth is used. Another reason,,, its normally such a small amount and lasts so long that the cost difference is rather moot.

^^^^I run both in different machines that run everyday in a commercial environment and have had very good results. With the cost of a new compressor, and not wanting any downtime, the little extra you pay is cheap insurance. :thumbup:

ATC · Feb 14, 2019

Thanks y'all! Compressors are fairly new to me (well, the large ones with real pumps/motors). I've been using a 33-gal Speedaire for the past 15 years...one of dad's hand-me-downs that came out of his service van (forklift mechanic), and I've never touched it.

I'll be running some errands tomorrow, so I'll pick some up and get it changed.

sberry · Feb 14, 2019

The Tool Tyrant said:
^^^^I run both in different machines that run everyday in a commercial environment and have had very good results. With the cost of a new compressor, and not wanting any downtime, the little extra you pay is cheap insurance.

And as I mention earlier, they have 8 and 10k hour ratings. Many of these hold a quartbof oil. 10 or 15$ difference over 20 years isnt much and a guy doesnt have to change it. Cost a little more but last 2 or 3x or even more,, as long as 8x as long makes it easier, cheaper and less work.

diesel_dan · Feb 14, 2019

One thing you could do is to just pick up some non-detergent straight 30 weight at any auto parts store. Do your change and run it for awhile on that, then change it again to a boutique oil if you want...

I run all mine on SAE 30W non-detergent

Scott

sberry · Feb 14, 2019

We come up with this in a couple engines. The less wear and tear on starters and batteries along with 3x extended change factoring in filters and not even including any labor makes the cost difference a bargain.
Oil has got so much better, there was some kind of threshold around year 2000 or so took big leap and friction modifiers took another couple big hops since that I never,,, shut something or even pull in for "oil change". A couple of older cars and engines I am never changing again.
I grease, I rotate tires, I fix brakes, don't always oil change.
Some I do when it's convenient, due and in for other work.
Had a welder in a while back, I pull the dipstick and oil looks nearly new,,, 415 hours on a 100 change rating, still almost felt guilty changing it but 2 qts and a filter I had while it was out of the truck was easy.

diesel_dan · Feb 14, 2019

I ran across some specs on the Curtis E35 (I have an E57) and it only holds 2.5 pints of oil... I had a similar situation, buying a used compressor with unknown history, so I too changed the oil before running it. But my big guy runs at 540 rpm and holds 2 qts - I just plan to change the oil more often.

You might just run some cheaper oil to check it out on (and maybe get any junk out on a warm drain) and then switch to synthetic...

sberry · Feb 14, 2019

Depends on how bad it is, if its clean now how much is all this really going to help? Not much is going to make it last any longer than it will. I got a neighbor girl goes in to an anxiety attack when the odometer rolls around 3500,, running Castrol Syntek in it.
Anyway, changes it 25 times, spits up some little piece in the engine wrecks it, mine, change half a dozen, maybe 10, still running.
Had a bud,, new welder, change oil 3 times in first 50 hrs, before it hits a hundred something in the gender lets loose, blows the guts out, wrecks the whole thing.
Some maintenance is good and most probably don't over do it but there is a limit to how much good it does and what it's worth.

diesel_dan · Feb 14, 2019

sberry said:
Depends on how bad it is, if its clean now how much is all this really going to help? Not much is going to make it last any longer than it will. I got a neighbor girl goes in to an anxiety attack when the odometer rolls around 3500,, running Castrol Syntek in it.
Anyway, changes it 25 times, spits up some little piece in the engine wrecks it, mine, change half a dozen, maybe 10, still running.
Had a bud,, new welder, change oil 3 times in first 50 hrs, before it hits a hundred something in the gender lets loose, blows the guts out, wrecks the whole thing.
Some maintenance is good and most probably don't over do it but there is a limit to how much good it does and what it's worth.

I hear ya'... Some of that is what quality was built in to the _____ when new... I remember when we were heavy into SCCA racing the guys that showed up with their only car: a Honda Civic, one of the only manufacturers (of inexpensive cars) that were doing bearing sizing on the engine crankshaft's mains (they had 5 sizes to choose from).... That was back in the late 80s and early 90s...

Race 'em on Sunday, drive to work on Monday... Dang those things were almost bulletproof...

Scott

bsaint · Feb 14, 2019

schaeffer htc-112 iso 100. Its what we use in ALL of our recips.

ATC · Feb 14, 2019

diesel_dan said:
I ran across some specs on the Curtis E35 (I have an E57) and it only holds 2.5 pints of oil... I had a similar situation, buying a used compressor with unknown history, so I too changed the oil before running it. But my big guy runs at 540 rpm and holds 2 qts - I just plan to change the oil more often.

You might just run some cheaper oil to check it out on (and maybe get any junk out on a warm drain) and then switch to synthetic...

Sounds like a good idea :thumbup:

ATC · Feb 15, 2019

So it turns out my compressor IS the big E-57! Luckily I bought just enough oil to get it almost to the center of the sight glass.

I made a temporary extension cord for it to plug into my welder's receptacle. She fired up and purred like a kitten. Now, I know nothing about the pressure switch, but I manually cut it off at 150psi as it was still going. I think I'm gonna change that out and remove/replace the automatic drain as well.

sberry · Feb 15, 2019

I like a ball valve and hose out thru the wall on the drain. Crack it once in a while. I just did mine which was inspired by reading a thread here, hadn't been done for a month but hasn't been used a lot either.

sberry · Feb 15, 2019

ATC said:
So it turns out my compressor IS the big E-57! Luckily I bought just enough oil to get it almost to the center of the sight glass.

I made a temporary extension cord for it to plug into my welder's receptacle. She fired up and purred like a kitten. Now, I know nothing about the pressure switch, but I manually cut it off at 150psi as it was still going. I think I'm gonna change that out and remove/replace the automatic drain as well.

Center of the glass is fine. Plug it in, if its 2 stage let it run up to 175+. I fired up one a while back and it shut off just before 200, I turned it down some, wasn't being used much where it was at and set it to 165.

ATC · Feb 15, 2019

sberry said:
Center of the glass is fine. Plug it in, if its 2 stage let it run up to 175+. I fired up one a while back and it shut off just before 200, I turned it down some, wasn't being used much where it was at and set it to 165.

Yup, I just figured out it was a 175psi switch. Thanks. It's a Square-D, so I might adjust it down to 150-160psi or so

sberry · Feb 15, 2019

It would depend on where i was going to use it and how much. If i was running air tools regularly down 50 ft hoses on reels would be running it at its rated pressure of 175. It stores more energy and gives the headroom to keep the input to regulators at 130/135 or so if you are running hard hitting impacts. This gives it near the 90 needed at the tool to run them at full power. Its the whole,, most of the purpose for having 2 stage.

ATC · Feb 15, 2019

Don't laugh. Spring clean-out is coming!

99LeCouch · Feb 15, 2019

My little 30 gallon starts noticeably easier in cold weather running DeWalt synthetic compressor oil. It's been a few years since it was last changed. It still looks clear through the sight glass, and hasn't consumed any. The oil is bright blue, which makes checking the level easy.

WaterBoyz · Feb 15, 2019

ATC said:
Don't laugh. Spring clean-out is coming!

If it wasn't so tall would you have even found it

Brand X · Feb 15, 2019

Setting you regulator pressure switch to 150-160 will be easier on the motor, and pump in general. Longer life for sure..Three of the best things for long life /low maintenance life is quality synthetic oil ,clean air filters, and backing down the peak pressure from 175 PSI..

The Schaeffer oil is quality stuff, and I would not doubt the Pacific Air stuff is the same thing.. Comes out of Texas also. If you had a D-96-97 pump then that would be the score.. Those are some of the best pumps ever made.. Disk valve, Pressure lube.. When I picked up mine the compressor mechanic bought a Masterline model of the 5hp.. They sold just about all brands made at the time, and there was a reason he picked that one.. This was before FS Curtis stuff..

sberry · Feb 15, 2019

No matter what the pressure is set at do we figure this guy to wear it out? Had it several years already and been plugged in once. Heck, I am a regular user, got the same comp since I was 14. Been on every day, had the oil changed 6 times and was neglected a time or 2 along the way, sat in a humid building for 15 years, turned oil milky. I put a rod bearing and set of rings in it about 20 years ago and cleaned it out. I think maybe someone had put auto oil in it, don't recall now but this machine is designed and factory set at 175.

sberry · Feb 15, 2019

Like buying a racing bike that go 150 and driving 55 on the freeway so it lasts longer. Or buying a 5 yard truck and hauling 3 in it when it's used once a week,, so it lasts. Thing will rust out and become obsolete or owner dies of old age before it wears out. Will also run some more cycles and have more starts at lower pressure if a guy wants to worry about ********.

Brand X · Feb 16, 2019

More load on the electric Motor is not ******** as you say. If you 175 psi to ruin your air tool have at it.. 175psi is more heat, and more water too..

150./160 psi is not running like at 55. More like 150 mph instead of 200. I think I know a bit more about Motorcycles then you also..

Stick to Tractors.. Then I might believe what you said.. :lol2:

sberry · Feb 16, 2019

My analogy about the motorcycle is probably bad. I really don't care about them but the people that designed the comp at the factory set it that way for a reason and the wear here doesn't mean a pinch of ****.
I have installed a whole garage full of comps, a lot of pipe, to the point I have a power threader. The tools are not running at 175 but aiming for 90.
A guy worried about the wear on this machine designed for it should find something else to do instead of fart with every knob on it carefully set at the factory by engineers that specialize in this, especially on their first machine or 2.
Do we worry about welding machines, about wearing it out or do we use it? Those do have a knob set by the user. If a guy can manage to wear one of these out it has earned its keep, this crowd and user wont.
Mine doesn't have pressure oil, has thousands and thousands of hours and still runs. I put 2 bearings and a start cap in the motor, not a thing I have have ever had to do to it would have helped if I turned it down from its design pressure and if it did last 5 minutes longer on thousands of hours of service its pretty irrelevent.
Equipment might be a hobby for some, they wax welding machines. They fuss with them. I don't doubt you know more about motorcycles than I do. Despite the fact I am a career welder you know way more about welding machines than I do and probably more about welding (maybe tractors too) but my experience is from long time actual use and even supervision of thousands of hours of use and only time I have ever had a welder fail was internal to the genset. one thing we couldn't predict, maintain, wax, etc and this was a machine ran at 3/4 capacity or less. Got a couple I abuse and run wayyyy above their duty cycle still going.

sberry · Feb 16, 2019

My main is a champ but I do actually own a Curtis too (along with a couple others I bought used and repaired) . Bought this pump new, install and design all the controls. It was a long time ago, bought it from the comp dealer and had the debate about it and pressure oiling because I "heard" about it all and the comp guy finally says,,,,, they cost 2x as much, if you can really wear this out it should have well paid for itself, buy a new one then. He was right. Basically still new.

Air compressor oil?

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