stair railings questions

Plans for a deck stair to ground level from main floor over walkout basement (not really a garage question but the building does include a garage... ). It was suggested to hold the stair 12" off the edge of the deck so there was room for a railing on both sides. When I asked about that I was told "The reason for the gap is to avoid the pinch point of the rail at the post and band board. Having the foot space allows for a full rail on both side and it functions better. " Width is shown as 48" to outside of posts/treads - see attached. Rules are apparently (haven't verified but we are on IBC 2009 and 2008 NEC here but word is it is going to get updated sometime) that railings (which I take to mean hand rails) are required on both sides of "open" stairs. Not sure exactly what "open" means but I take that to mean a railing and not a full height wall. If the stairs are under 44 inches wide (as I recall) one railing is sufficient if stairs are closed. I have stairs that I think qualify as open (see picture) that have railing on only one side but built in 2004. Wanting to do something like this again if possible. My current stair treads are 42" but railing posts were set such that space between posts is only 30" - Workable for one person but tight for two people passing. Would be nice to have 36 - 40" I think.My sketch (with red outline) would take a bit from deck space but size is plenty big so not an issue. The deck is about 20 ft wide but we want to keep the stair from cutting right across the view out on the lower level. Ideas or suggestions?

Do railings RIGHT. Don't skimp or skirt what works. Old people (and you when older), will see the reason why.

And what would you consider right? That's why I asked...

One of the things to consider is how the walkways are. A deck might seem big, but if 30% of it have to be left unused for walkways it shrinks up fast. Finding a good layout means the access points and stairs will sort of line up or minimize the walkway area.

Ask your inspector
He has to OK it in the end

I was hoping to get some input here first.

Was just recalling when we had the present deck built. The sub building it said the deck was overbuilt on the plans and asked if they could leave out one support post.

Of course I said no! At least they asked first....

Keep a picture in your mind of four firemen carrying down your 350# neighbor who collapsed at your BBQ.
I use 5 stringers on a 48"w stair.
Check span on composite decking.
Pour a footing at your lower landing use a thrust block.
Use metal conns on stringer to deck
We used an aluminum rail sys on last deck and steps. Strong. Inspector liked it.

Well, if someone collapsed on the deck it would be much easier to just take them through the house. It's a much more direct path to the driveway/street than going down the stairs and then up and around the house. But I get the basic point to make it strong enough for the expected and unexpected load. I called out 2 x 10 for joists and the deck company said they usually used 2 x 8. They actually complained that it was more work dealing with 2 x 10s! (and I was supplying materials). There were news reports of several decks collapsing at different spots in the country at that time and I didn't want it to happen to me.

olouttt said:

Actually my advice is to get a better builder that can do what you want. Those unnecessary pickets, non wall-mounted handrail, and tiny staircase just scream incompetence.

Click to expand...

Not the builder. I was the GC and dealing with the plans guy who wasn't that good. Never got to the building stage. We abandoned this project and are just adding a large garage where we are. The issue with the size of the joists was years ago on the current house.