Powder coating at home

I'm looking to powder coat some wheels at home and have been doing trial runs in my garage. The issue I'm having is that all my test pieces have some small defects - mostly fisheyes and craters. I have read this is most likely due to the parts not being clean, even though I believe I'm cleaning them pretty well.

My questions are: What's your cleaning process look like to ensure flawless results at home? Whats your whole process in general? Is it even reasonable to expect near perfect results from non-professional powder coating?

Here is my setup and process for reference:
- Eastwood Dual Voltage Powder Coating Gun
- Prismatic powders
- Sandblasting parts with aluminum oxide and/or crushed glass blast media
- Air blowing parts clean then wiping down with clean shop towels
- Baking parts around 200 degrees for 20 mins to outgass parts
- Cleaning parts with Eastwood Pre spray or acetone

I have yet to try things like dawn dish soap and distilled water or purple power degreaser

I have no experience in this area, but your post really got me interested. I have seen the kits from Eastwood and Harbor Freight, but my biggest question was about the type of oven setup you have? What kind of oven temperatures do you need to meet? thanks

jgromada said:

I have no experience in this area, but your post really got me interested. I have seen the kits from Eastwood and Harbor Freight, but my biggest question was about the type of oven setup you have? What kind of oven temperatures do you need to meet? thanks

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Agreed. I've thought about it but it seems to be worthwhile running to town for flawless parts once in a blue moon.

Are you wearing gloves?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I have zero experience powder coating, but I’d certainly be using a wax and grease remover before I coated. I do when I paint so...

It seems your getting contamination from somewhere?

1. Clean air
2. Clean rags
3, Gloves (already mentioned)
4. Pre-clean and post clean.
5. Tack rag (clean)

I had good success with Eastwood, Prismatic powders. I don't have an oven big enough to do a wheel but have done many other items with no issues so far in a converted smoker.

Matt

Your air has water or oil in it.

jgromada said:

I have no experience in this area, but your post really got me interested. I have seen the kits from Eastwood and Harbor Freight, but my biggest question was about the type of oven setup you have? What kind of oven temperatures do you need to meet? thanks

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For small parts, you can get away with a counter top toaster oven. I ended up getting a used kitchen oven off OfferUp for about $20. The guy was happy just to have someone remove it for him. You have to use a separate oven from your main cooking oven for safety. Temps vary according to the powder used, but typically about 400 degrees or so from what I have seen.

Farmall450 said:

Agreed. I've thought about it but it seems to be worthwhile running to town for flawless parts once in a blue moon.

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If you already have an air compressor, air filter stuff, and suitable secondary oven, it's worth it. Just incredibly frustrating when you are trying to reach perfection on a part that people will see.

RacerX said:

Are you wearing gloves?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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Yup!

mattm55 said:

It seems your getting contamination from somewhere?

1. Clean air
2. Clean rags
3, Gloves (already mentioned)
4. Pre-clean and post clean.
5. Tack rag (clean)

I had good success with Eastwood, Prismatic powders. I don't have an oven big enough to do a wheel but have done many other items with no issues so far in a converted smoker.

Matt

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No imperfections whatsoever? You are using the tack rag after applying Pre right?

I have seen people brushing the part to removed any deep seated containments, but not sure if its absolutely necessary.

Ive been doing powder coating myself now for about 6-7 years, starting right about in the same way that it sounds like you are!

Fisheyes and craters certainly sounds like oil or water in your air. Some pictures of the defects and info about your compressor and filtration would help there.

From an overall process standpoint, a few pointers from my end would be:
- Dont wipe down parts with a rag, it is an opportunity to introduce particles
- Outgass temps should be 20-50 degrees hotter than cure temp and at least 25% longer. Typically I am around 440 deg F for 20-25 mins
- Clean & degrease parts (you can wipe here), chemical strip (if applicable), outgass, blast, blow clean, then apply coating

Fisheyes definitely sound like air contamination but it might not be air related. Maybe your powder is old or if you are trying to recycle it don't? If your powder is lumping up you might need to put it in a blender at low speed to break it up (or better replace it).
For moisture check the moisture trap and how often are you having to empty it? Check and see if there is any oil in as well when you bleed it off. Might be an issue if you are overrunning your compressor or it has some bad seals (or really low duty cycle). If your compressor is running non stop while you sand blast then you will probably need a bigger moisture trap (like a secondary tank) especially if it is some kind of oil-less setup. It's just a ton of heat to try and draw moisture from air that way if the compressor is running non-stop.

As far as cleaning goes make sure and degrease and clean all the gunk off your parts before you take it to the media blast cabinet. Personally I use a good solution of tide-pods in a heated parts washer and a scrubber brush (upside is you can have a millennial tide-pod desert at the same time). Doing this will help keep your blast media clean for much longer and essentially prevent you from spitting grease balls at the substrate at high pressure. Once done there blast them and then once you have finished that, blow them off well and knock out all the blast media and wiped them down well with some red scotch pads and that will help shed extra blast media before you blow them off again. Once you do that then dip and soak them in acetone for a bit. When you put the parts in the Acetone swirle them around and do it again when you take them out and make sure you have a good clean work surface to lay them on if you are not hanging them to powder right away. You might have to buy a big 5 gallon can or a couple depending on what you are doing and some bigger rubbermaid tubs to achieve your proper final dip but doing so should pretty much leave it as clean as you can get it.
I do use some wipes sometimes but they are lab wipes that I got for free and they are low particulate. That being said though I will usually still dip the part in Acetone and not touch it afterwards and of course once they come out of the blast cabinet I don Nitrile gloves to keep the finger grease at bay


You need more heat for out-gassing for one. If you are baking at or around 400 I would look at around 450 and for around 15 to 20 minutes. 200 degrees isn't really doing anything for your process as far as outgassing goes.

You know you have a powder coating addiction when your oven setup looks like this:

Yeah its an Oven, in an Oven, in an Oven. Growing pains!!

Oh and I'd avoid using purple power as a degreaser/cleaner. it works OK on Steel but has been known to cause softness on Aluminum (Side effect of the Sodium Hydroxide mix). Tide pods are a great cheap alternative and probably one of the best grease lifting detergents. Just don't expect them to make crazy bubbles.

To add to what the others have said, I only use denatured alcohol when de-greasing as it evaporates fast and leaves no residue like other solvents. Also, I once had problems with cratering when doing a large batch of parts and I scratched my head for quite a bit trying to figure out what was happening. I ended up putting an in-line filter on the gun as a last ditch effort ( already have 2 at the compressor) and still had craters. I tried many different test pieces using different substrates and cleaning methods, and at the end of all that madness, I came to the conclusion that I had a bad batch of powder. Called prismatic and they sent out a new batch no questions asked and I never had a problem after that. Just a thought

I had a small LLC powder coating for several years. Lots of fun, can make money once you know what you are doing and create a niche for yourself. Lots of mine was mail order and I've forgotten how many states my work is in as well as a few countries. Some of it made the cover of a motorcycle mag I did parts for.

First step, get rid of those shop towels near your powder, you are introducing lint. And your tac rag, unneeded with powder.

If you have an oil bath compressor with no filter, that will guarantee fish eyes. If you have an air cooled/standard/inexpensive compressor this is not likely your cause unless you've introduced oil into your lines via an oiler and what you are seeing is residual. Regardless a filter sounds in order and may cure everything.

Unless you are doing cast wheels outgassing isn't necessary, if you are doing cast wheels, go 475/500 for at least good hour. This is sufficiently above your cure temps and get your PMT up.

If you are doing steel wheels, once media blasted blow them off well with compressed air and you can shoot them. Regardless, if you are wiping down with paper towels right before you shoot them I promise you are leaving lint behind, but this is different that fish eyes. Lint will appear as debris left behind.

A few things to help adhesion once you've blasted. Go ahead and outgass/bake if it makes you feel better. There is no harm in it. Once it cools off hit it with iron phosphate from a squirt bottle. Let it evaporate and hit it with powder. Available from nearly all powder suppliers. I've used IP and without, you'll be hardpressed to tell a difference, but its has its uses. I liked powder365.com - but prismatic is great as well. IF you find a reason you absolutely HAVE to wipe down a part, hit it with a propane torch afterwards. Just going over it to burn off lint.

I started off with a $49 Eastwood gun and made money with it, but Eastwood guns are a half step above Harbor Freight, maybe. Cheap way to get your feet wet, but don't expect too much once you start doing clears/chromes/2/3 colors. You may be experiencing faraday, which is a real sun-of-a-***** until you learn to fool it and smack it down. This could cause a fisheye like fault in your finished product, depending on where they are appearing. Near an angle or crevis? The first step is to check your ground. I don't mean an alligator clip on an oven rack ground, I mean drive yourself a grounding rod outside the shop and run a thick solid core wire from that rod to your spray booth with a proper clamp from the electrical department. It'll take you a few weeks to stop being amazed at what you were missing. A proper ground will make a cheap gun look great and a pricey gun look shabby it it doesn't have one. Like a car - powder needs a good ground to work properly. Give it a ground to take a lightning strike. I attach that solid core wire to a 1/2" ground rod running horizontal in my booth and hang all parts from that with the ground from my gun hanging from that. While shooting your powder, try taking another auxiliary wire and attaching it as a ground to the part in different areas, it can change the electrical current enough to help a trouble area take powder.

Hot flocking. Heat your part to about 200 degrees, pull it out and shoot it. The powder will stick wonderfully. Not appropriate when doing a 2 or 3 color piece, but hot flocking hard parts is an easy cheat.

Get the idea of dish soap/degreaser out of your head. You will be creating yourself many more headaches. Brake cleaner works in a pinch, acetone is great. Anything else Eastwood wants to sell you is unnecessary - and probably either iron phosphate or acetone. I kept a pair of tweezers nearby to pic any signs of lint or foreign debris off. Use an LED light to check for areas requiring more powder. The free ones from HF "with any purchase" work great.

In my time, I never once received defective powder and never heard of it actually happening. FWIW, keep you powder sealed and stored in a cool dry place and it will last for years. I have powder 15 years old I wouldn't hesitate to use IIRC there are only a handful of companies who actually manufacture powder. MOST everyone online is a reseller.

If you have more questions feel free to shoot me a PM. Good luck.

You need to outgas at higher temp. The oils and gasses won't weep out at only 200

For the precleaning you only need acetone, no other special cleaners needed and some make add a film that will cause bonding issues. The craters and fisheyes are oils seeping under the powder. I would do the following.

Clean with acetone
Blast
If the part was exposed to oils and gases routinely ie: valve covers, timing covers, hubs/spindles etc I would

Outgas for double the time then wipe down again then blast once more. Coat at normal.

You also need very dry air as the wet air can cause small clumps that cause bumps

Here is what right is referring to hot flocking. This was a set of wheels for a Lakers player (forgot who) and the powder would always lay glass smooth and a bit thicker for more chip protection doing it that way. It was my preferred method

Thanks for all the tips, tricks, and advice. I have a Husky 60 gallon compressor and I will be adding more oil traps and water separation. Ill also change up my cleaning process. I was just in the middle or researching adding a ground rod to the outside of the garage and running a wire to my booth. Good tips!

Good thread, lots of good information.

If i found a good electric stove (Or maybe gas and i could run it with propane) this sounds pretty reasonable.

Some photos of your defects will probably help a lot in uncovering the issue(s). Fisheye can be as simple as a spray of WD-40 or silicone twenty feet away.

I'm just finishing up on my oven build and have been reading a lot.

Some good information especially from &right.

Never wipe with anything and always wear gloves.

Cast pieces need to be out gassed like said at 50 or so degrees above your cure temp for longer than the cure time.

There's an effect called back ionization that can cause defects in powder... I'd Google that so you can see what it looks like.

Anyhow glad to see people who are coating here

Is it possible to powder coat zinc plated steel parts?

I don't plan on doing any powder coating, but I'd like to know what the process is for masking off certain areas that you don't want powder coated.

For instance, motorcycle engine cases where you don't want powder coating in threaded holes, or gasket mating surfaces, or where an oil seal would be installed.

Also, what would be some pertinent questions to ask, when choosing someone to do your powder coating?

^^^^^^^^^^^^

As simple as silicon plugs and high temp tape ............

https://hightempmasking.com/product...TnFKvvQV0vkRvMuJ2JgPo1UF_oktDyfEaAtXIEALw_wcB

Honda guy said:

I don't plan on doing any powder coating, but I'd like to know what the process is for masking off certain areas that you don't want powder coated.

For instance, motorcycle engine cases where you don't want powder coating in threaded holes, or gasket mating surfaces, or where an oil seal would be installed.

Also, what would be some pertinent questions to ask, when choosing someone to do your powder coating?

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Masking and keeping powder out of crucial areas is paramount to a good coater.

So-called "pros" are seemingly on every corner these days -- and all over YouTube -- so your questions will serve you well in terms of selecting the right place for the work.

Familiarize yourself with the process first. Different substrates need the same basic prepwork but if aluminum or magnesium are in your stack (especially USED and/or cast parts), they require additional steps for a terrific outcome and top-shelf results.

Ask your prospective coater exactly what will be involved in prepping your parts. Expect to be asked about your color choice(s), any custom work you might desire, whether parts are new or used, and what kind of use they will be subjected to. (There is a big difference between delicate engine parts and wrought iron lawn furniture for example.)

If there is any hesitation, defensiveness, confusion, deflection, or anything less than a confident, cohesive plan of action in the responses, keep looking until you mesh with someone you're comfortable with.

From there, research prior work samples (or ask to see some if you visit in person), check out any online feedback, and just type their shop name into your browser and read what comes up. If you use other social media (Twitter, FaceBook, InstaGram etc.), hashtags like #powdercoating or #metalfinishing will bring up others not found in main Google searches.

Qualified professionals will stand out from newbies and hacks. If you don't see any close-ups especially of small parts, they are hiding work quality issues.

You wouldn't trust your triple bypass, your new dentures, your legal issue or corporate tax return to a rookie. Why should your metal finishing be any different?

Honda guy said:

Showkey, Thanks for the link.



CudaChick, thanks for all the great info. I was checking out your website and it looks like you really know your stuff! Amazing attention to detail!

After 30+ years as a motorcycle tech, at the dealership level, I finally took the giant step and went into business for myself last July. I don't know how much customer demand I'll have for powder coating, but I'm going to be starting a restoration on a 1981 Yamaha YZ125 in the next couple months. Still in the process of locating parts etc, but will be contacting you in the near future.

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Thank you for the kind compliment Honda guy! I love my job.


I started as a hobbyist in 1999 on my own Barracuda's pulleys, brackets and other small parts on weekends and nights in the garage. I was a certified paralegal/legal secretary for over 20 years before relocating to the sticks of Tennessee after Hurricane Katrina and never imagined owning a business back then. It was borne out of the need to eat and keeping utilities paid versus a 4-hour daily commute to and from Memphis or Nashville.



The first couple of years were a struggle (I have never advertised) but the customers were always happy. That led to tons of internet exposure, mostly with Mopar fans. Now almost fourteen years later, emphasizing metal condition first and foremost -- why make it pretty if the metal itself looks like ***??? -- treating people fairly combined with blatant honesty, thinking outside the box with innovations in the industry and never once looking back, I wouldn't change a thing. This isn't nearly as lucrative as law firm work was by a long shot, but the personal satisfaction and getting to help others realize their dreams are incomparable rewards to money.



Your passion will drive you to success in your new venture. Feed it!!! Thirty years of experience in a bike dealership will serve you better than you ever imagined because you've already seen what works and what doesn't. Meld your shop into a perfect balance and never let it turn into "work." Each project is a new adventure to utilize your past talents and showcase new ones. I assume you're already gathering parts for a show bike of your own? (I have some kick-*** aftermarket metal flake ............ )



Billy built a '78 IT175 a couple years back (more of a 190 with a .030 over) that still needs a tool bag and a couple other smalls. He also took the front forks and front/rear disc brakes off an ATK and put them on a Red Rocket. It looks almost factory too.


I'll be around whenever you're ready, even if just to brainstorm. [Wonder if the compressor has thawed yet? Ugh, I hate winter.]

CudaChick1968 said:

Masking and keeping powder out of crucial areas is paramount to a good coater.

So-called "pros" are seemingly on every corner these days -- and all over YouTube -- so your questions will serve you well in terms of selecting the right place for the work.

Familiarize yourself with the process first. Different substrates need the same basic prepwork but if aluminum or magnesium are in your stack (especially USED and/or cast parts), they require additional steps for a terrific outcome and top-shelf results.

Ask your prospective coater exactly what will be involved in prepping your parts. Expect to be asked about your color choice(s), any custom work you might desire, whether parts are new or used, and what kind of use they will be subjected to. (There is a big difference between delicate engine parts and wrought iron lawn furniture for example.)

If there is any hesitation, defensiveness, confusion, deflection, or anything less than a confident, cohesive plan of action in the responses, keep looking until you mesh with someone you're comfortable with.

From there, research prior work samples (or ask to see some if you visit in person), check out any online feedback, and just type their shop name into your browser and read what comes up. If you use other social media (Twitter, FaceBook, InstaGram etc.), hashtags like #powdercoating or #metalfinishing will bring up others not found in main Google searches.

Qualified professionals will stand out from newbies and hacks. If you don't see any close-ups especially of small parts, they are hiding work quality issues.

You wouldn't trust your triple bypass, your new dentures, your legal issue or corporate tax return to a rookie. Why should your metal finishing be any different?

Click to expand...

Go for it Cudachick i closed my powdercoat business too many like you said pro,s on every corner lol