Shapers Show yours & Tips,Tricks, and projects made with them

ALL: i've been looking into Shapers cause i've got a lot of woodworking projects in my future and it seems like the tool of choice for some jobs.

how about posting a few pictures of yours along with ACCESSORIES, CUTTERS, TIPS AND TRICKS TO USE THEM, BRANDS AND MODEL #'s, POWER FEEDERS and your projects that were made by using them.

I was looking for maybe a 3 HP with a power feeder and I still am, but one of my neighbor's got one from his father in law that has been taking up valuable space in his new garage and he said I could have it if I'd use it so it followed me home.

here's my little Rockwell shaper with a box of cutters that might be in great shape too.

let's talk SHAPERS and WOODWORKING!!

A shaper is a router table on steroids ! Look for router projects.

I very rairly use a router since getting a shaper

I use my shaper(s) all the time. For the typical cabinet door work (sticking, coping) as well as rebates, panel raising, groove cutting, making moulding.. the list goes on and on. I rarely use my router table, everything is better on a shaper.

As for cutters I have a lot, but I likely use a alternating shear rebate head the most (just realized it's not in the pic below). After that it's a toss up.

Some of the heads
View media item 101304And some of the knives for the 40mm "euro block" heads
View media item 101305
Shaper wise the bigger the better, you can't go too big. More hp and a larger spindle just make things easier. Also the fence on the shaper really makes a difference. The grizzly fences are toward the bottom, but truthfully the delta hd and powermatic 26/27 shapers are no better.

3hp is a good size for a hobby shop. I had a 3hp as my first shaper and currently have a 5hp ~6hp, and a 7.5hp (may actually be 9hp) shaper. Ideally I'd say 5 to 7.5 is enough for most things you can do on a shaper (in a single pass) with 10hp being a option on the industrial models

This is the larger shaper being used to make door parts


I will also say that while a power feed isn't absolutely necessary, it's really close to necessary to get full functionality.

My two newest to me shapers, both 3 phase, both with sliding tables.

View media item 101271
The left shaper is a bridgewood 511 (5.5hp) and around 800 pounds. The hole in the table is 220mm approximately 9".

The right shaper (on the pallet jack) is a casolin f90c (7.5/9hp) and 1870 pounds. The hole in the table is 330mm approximately 13.5".

Power feeders.
Every shaper needs a power feeder. Most are either rebranded comatic, or steff. Grizzly, delta, powermatic and a lot more are all comatic feeders. The euro manufacturer's are typically rebranded steff.

The little 1/2hp comatic 308 (grizzly cabinet feeder) is a nice capable feeder than goes from horizontal to vertical feed with a simple motion. The 45 degree knuckle makes a huge difference is setup time. The other comatic feeder that uses this system is the dc30/dc40 (the best feeder out there currently) it allows infinitely variable speed from 7fpm to 100 or so.

The rest of the 1hp feeders are mostly identical in function. (The mechanical variable speed units excluded)

If you go down the rabbits hole of shapers, you will inevitably hear that bigger is better (I know I just said that in the post above) but I'm not talking about the hp rating on the motor.

1. Beyond the obvious (motor or table size) what makes bigger better

2. When is enough enough. (I get not everybody wants a 4000lb whitney shaper)

Someone on another forum said a shaper is like a iceberg.. 90% of the structure should be below the spindle.

So with that in mind here are some quill assembly pictures.

The delta hd.. originally 1.5hp, but available over time up to 5hp. Relatively small quill, and close distance between bearings. The powermatic 25/25/27 are very similar in size and bearing arrangement.

Fine design at 1.5 to 2hp maybe even 3hp with 1/2 to 3/4 bore tooling. 1.25" cutters and 5hp kill the small bearings.
View media item 101300
Grizzly (the 5hp models) this one is a tilt spindle so slightly different. However it's a relatively small quill and housing with two 6008 bearings. Available in 5 or 7.5 hp.. they are ok. It's a similar design to the powermatic 2700. Not a industrial machine by any stretch.
View media item 101302
Bridgewood 511 (same as a bunch of off shore shapers, delta 42-791/792, powermatic 29, laguna ect..) considerably larger quill and housing. Rigidly bolted to the table. Large distance between bearings double 6008 bearings on top and a 6205 on the bottom. Most of these were 7.5hp
View media item 101301
Casolin f90.. significantly bigger. Similar to the scmi 130 and rest of the Italian shapers in that class (griggio, sac, casadei)
View media item 101303
The old American shapers have even larger quills and bearings, as do the German shapers and their polish clones. Those are in the 2000lbs and above class

Shaper work.

Some examples of items "shaped"

Baseboard / cabinet feet /valances
View media item 101306View media item 101307
Corbels
View media item 101308
Various moulding
View media item 101310View media item 101311


View media item 101309View media item 101317View media item 101321View media item 101322
View media item 101315View media item 101316
Cabinet doors
View media item 101314View media item 101318
Raised/recessed panels/ furniture parts
View media item 101312View media item 101323View media item 101313

rsanter said:

I very rairly use a router since getting a shaper

Click to expand...

It IS a better tool !

The first job my Dad got after WWII was in a lumber yard. After a few weeks they told him to go help the guy making modeling and windows. Back then, most lumber yards would cut their own moldings and window pieces (frames, mullions, apron, stool, casing, etc). My Dad was catching on quick and thought it was a good job, until he realized the guy training him had 4 fingers on one hand and 3 on the other.

He quit.

To eliminate snipe on work use a back / outboard fence. (power feeder required)

When making a cut that takes the full profile of a board you have 2 options, either offset the split fence to match the depth of cut, or reference off a back fence. Getting a perfect snipe free edge with a split fence takes trial, error and some luck. Getting a snipe free edge with a back fence just takes using it...

It also allows you to use a shaper effectively even if the main fence is a awful design.


The feeder keeps the board against the plywood "fence", the dial indicator allows for precise adjustments. In this case I was milling up face frame stock and needed ot to be within couple thousands in width.
View media item 101325
No snipe, a full face cut and the exact width I was aiming for
View media item 101324
Sticking door parts with a back fence

Sticking muntins with a back fence

Sizing door jamb stock with a back fence

In the millwork shop where I worked for 25 years, we had 3 shapers. Two Powermatics, one with the regular height (short) 7/8" spindle, and one with the taller 7/8" spindle. And then there was the antique beast, with two motors and two 1 1/8" spindles (one motor for opposite direction). The last 15 years I worked there I did all of the shaper work.

The most challenging (and dangerous) job I had to run was a radiused piece of window/door trim, usually 4"-6" wide and requiring up to 3 setups (we had no 3 wing cutters then, just knives we set up in collets). To run the trim, it had to be face against the fence, and rotated free-hand so that the part of the trim touching the table (the outside edge of the radius) was always right in front of the spindle. The "free-hand" part was the hardest. Any little bobble ruined the profile. I actually got pretty good at it, after ruining some early efforts, and even then occasionally had to throw one out.

I bought a Powermatic clone , a BusyBee (Grizzly #1026 3hp ), and refurbished it. I paid a dime on the dollar for it ,but had to pay a quarter on the dollar in parts I like the simple ,solid Powermatic design , the Delta looks complicated and fussy. And lighter duty. I remachined the fence. That alone paid for half my milling machine. A good aftermarket fence is around $700. I don't have a powerfeeder yet , they are a safety feature I need to get.

Cutters are problem in North America being both expensive and dangerous . The European safety standards for spindle molders ( their name for shapers) are much higher. The replaceable cutters blades are more inexpensive as well.

Whitehill in Britain is a great source. They make the NA standard 1 1/4" bore, but will supply others.

The larger spindle machines have heavier and more precision bearings , besides the greater power.

This is a rather good and informative video on spindle moulder/ shaper setups.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4n6yTHMBX54" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I'm disappointed. I saw the title of this thread and thought you were interested in a metal shaper :-( I have this sweet little shaper, a wonderful tool.

Maybe you should start a thread on metal shapers. BTW, I have a 6" shop built. Quite a difference in motors, 3hp for a hobby wood shaper and 1/3hp for metal shaper,

Good thread on the small shapers like the one drivesitfar just acquired.

http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=169138

JAR: talk about a RABBIT HOLE learning about shapers and all their safety and many many useful methods of putting a nice shape on wood cause i think I should have started this thread in September just before the rainy season here.

I own maybe 5 routers so maybe there won't be as big of learning curve using a smallish shaper, but I can see there is a CURVE that is for certain.

thanks again for taking the time to post up all the pictures, links to threads, videos and keep doing so as you remember or see more so maybe some of our great old trees won't become firewood and some of their owners might enjoy making some furniture or something cool.

ND: feel free to post up more pics of your metal shaper and maybe it's tooling and if you have any projects cause even though they are not nearly as common as wood shapers maybe there are a few others here that have some that can help you and all of us learn.

ALL: thanks for posting and love to see more pictures of your shapers, projects and if you have a minute to talk about the types and grains of wood even better.

here's a couple plastic featherboards I notices on the OWWM thread that I thought might be a good safety piece to own or are they?

drivesitfar said:

JAR: talk about a RABBIT HOLE learning about shapers and all their safety and many many useful methods of putting a nice shape on wood cause i think I should have started this thread in September just before the rainy season here.

I own maybe 5 routers so maybe there won't be as big of learning curve using a smallish shaper, but I can see there is a CURVE that is for certain.

thanks again for taking the time to post up all the pictures, links to threads, videos and keep doing so as you remember or see more so maybe some of our great old trees won't become firewood and some of their owners might enjoy making some furniture or something cool.

ND: feel free to post up more pics of your metal shaper and maybe it's tooling and if you have any projects cause even though they are not nearly as common as wood shapers maybe there are a few others here that have some that can help you and all of us learn.

ALL: thanks for posting and love to see more pictures of your shapers, projects and if you have a minute to talk about the types and grains of wood even better.

here's a couple plastic featherboards I notices on the OWWM thread that I thought might be a good safety piece to own or are they?

Click to expand...

Feather boards, hold downs and shaw guards are really considered essential for hand feeding shapers.

I'm using them here for a stopped bead.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZbrOSk5TWC0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Jar: thanks and that's another method of using them that can keep your fingers on your hand and produce a nice cut too.

jar944 said:

Shaper work.

Some examples of items "shaped"

Click to expand...

Work looks great! I always enjoy seeing calipers in the woodshop. Thanks for posting.

Drive, here's my vintage woodworking machine. Some poor pictures and only in 'sawing' modus but machine can be transformed for all kind of woodworking tasks. Only used it once cause it take some time to get it installed so I use my smaller machines instead.

Wout

Some more shaper work

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/5PS4ypvpkeE" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>[/QUOTE]

drivesitfar said:

ALL: i've been looking into Shapers cause i've got a lot of woodworking projects in my future and it seems like the tool of choice for some jobs.

here's my little Rockwell shaper with a box of cutters that might be in great shape too.

let's talk SHAPERS and WOODWORKING!!

Click to expand...

Drivesitfar, have you used you shaper much yet?

Jar: Sorry to say I have had far too many other things on top of my to do list so sadly the shaper is still sitting where I put it in my parent's basement garage.

that said if you'd like to follow along on my DIY thread and make comments i'm building a fence currently and next a deck and woodshop so i'd love to have you share your thoughts there.

AND maybe with you posting a hint or two on that thread that I post on frequently i'll get the shaper fired up and see how it works.

I've been absent from GJ for a few months so I need to catch up on all your cool projects cause you sir are not a wood butcher like I kinda am.

thanks for checking in.

ALL: this past summer I was planing, sanding, cutting, staining and building a fence and I cut notches with skill saws and routers so at least i'm getting a little more familiar with woodworking. a few pics of my new fence