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If you were building a garage...

clyde

New member
Joined
Jan 22, 2005
Messages
2
Location
a 1/2 car shack
If you were building a three car garage, how would you equip it? Imagine that you're starting without any real tools to speak of. Impose a "reasonable" budget on yourself. Define "reasonable" for yourself based on the limit being substantially lower than the sky, but you can still spend a good chunk of change.

I'm looking for whatever comes to mind...tools, storage solutions, pretty much anything that is functionaly garage related.

Thanks!
clyde
 
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dternst

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2005
Messages
52
Location
Texas
Here are a few things off the top of my head (some of these are on my wish list):

# of 110V connections = # of 220V connections.
Phone connection
Satelite or Cable connection
DSL connection
Wiring for sound system
Base and wall cabinets
workbench and work area
60-80 gal. air compressor
normal toolset
pneumatic tools
torque wrenchs
breaker bars
socket extensions (1/2", 3/8", and 1/4")
torx drivers (screwdriver and socket)
dog bone creeper
stool creeper
clock (easy to loose track of time when you're out doing something you love doing).
Insulation
Sound proofing
Cooling system
Heating system
Rolling tool boxes
Lighting, lighting, and lighting (no such thing as too much lighting).
Aluminum jack and jack stands
Lift (optional)
Ramps
Tire Storage
Utility elevator to access the attic, instead of a ladder.
Engine lift (optional)
Utility storage shelves
vise
hanging and retractable extension cords (hang from the roof of the garage)

I'm sure I've left out some of the more obvious items.

David
 

vfast

New member
Joined
Jan 22, 2005
Messages
3
Location
va
yes I'm putting one in my 2 car..dude looks like alot to install but you forgot a urnal....
 

dternst

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Joined
Jan 8, 2005
Messages
52
Location
Texas
vfast said:
yes I'm putting one in my 2 car..dude looks like alot to install but you forgot a urnal....

That's what the drain in the middle of the floor is for... :lol_hitti
 

DirtyLude

Active member
Joined
Jan 15, 2005
Messages
31
Location
Pickering, ON
You still need to answer some questions about use.

How much actual car work do you do in the garage? Is it mostly maintenance; small repairs, or major engine/bodywork?

Is this a functional garage? Meaning, are 3 daily driven cars going to be parked and driven in/out of it all the time?

Are you going to be storing stuff other than cars? Lawnmowers, gardening supplies, garbage cans....

Is this garage attached to a house?
 
OP
C

clyde

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Joined
Jan 22, 2005
Messages
2
Location
a 1/2 car shack
DirtyLude said:
You still need to answer some questions about use.

How much actual car work do you do in the garage? Is it mostly maintenance; small repairs, or major engine/bodywork?

Is this a functional garage? Meaning, are 3 daily driven cars going to be parked and driven in/out of it all the time?

Are you going to be storing stuff other than cars? Lawnmowers, gardening supplies, garbage cans....

Is this garage attached to a house?

The question was meant to be more open ended than apply to just my situation. I sort of want to know what other people would want (for whatever reasons).

But, since you asked...

The garage will probably be attached and house at least one daily driver, and usually two. The third spot will be taken up by a project (such as building an FFR Cobra) or competition (Solo II) car. The garage will also have room for a small tire trailer, a minimal amount of lawn equipment/supplies, paint, etc.
 

spud

Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2005
Messages
19
Location
Alberta
- ceiling fans
-plenty of windows
- power roof vent, vent out moister/ fumes
- Im thinking of adding a sky light (light difuser tube) for more natual light
- Security systm, maybe even some video cameras
- paint floor before you move in.
- hot cold water
- intercom
- natural gas lines ( if your heating with gas)
- ceiling supports, for hanging the heavy stuff.( motors, big game, keg)




Dont forget about the games room upstairs :pimpflash
 

DirtyLude

Active member
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Jan 15, 2005
Messages
31
Location
Pickering, ON
I'd want another 200sq/ft of room. It doesn't matter if your garage is as big as a warehouse, all your stuff will expand to fill all available room.

If your building a car from the ground up, or stripping it right down, without alot of extra room, that garage will turn into a 1 car garage, with 2 bays used for your project. Already my two car garage is unuseable to park cars in, despite my best intentions.
 

ultgar

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Jan 11, 2005
Messages
1,118
Location
New Jersey
Garages

spud said:
- ceiling fans
-plenty of windows
- power roof vent, vent out moister/ fumes
- Im thinking of adding a sky light (light difuser tube) for more natual light
- Security systm, maybe even some video cameras
-- ceiling supports, for hanging the heavy stuff.( motors, big game, keg)

I'd actually limit the number of windows and if you do want natural light, stick with awning windows (up high) and venting skylights. UV exposure can take its toll on surface colors...especially those on expensive vehicles.

As far as i-beams rail systems for pulling motors....that doesn't work well with mid-engine and rear engine cars where the motors drop out the bottom.

355svc-g.jpg


And...if you do have a loft or other room upstairs, an office or spare bedroom (for when your wife throws you out of the house) is not a bad idea..this is what I did for mine..the couch folds out into a queensize bed.

loft1.JPG
 

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
Lots of outlets
Loft for storage
High ceilings for a lift
Run drains and water lines even if not hooked up yet
Lots of lights
Security system
Multiple air connections
Heat (furnace)
Windows for cross ventilation
Cable (TV)
Speaker wires behind drywall
Computer hookup
One seperate bay for the trophy car and collectables
Cabinets and cupboards so everything is behind doors and drawers
Floor drain
Cement block or something comparable at least 2' up the wall so the garage can be washed out without damage to any drywall.
A 1/2 bath if possible or if room permits add a shower so tracking thru the house is minimal.
A washer hookup so cleaning towels, shoprags, coveralls, etc can be washed and there is less wear and tear on the family washer.
 

avsfan733

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 22, 2005
Messages
65
Location
Rochester
ummm
1)a sliding crane like what spud mentioned to heck with an engine hoist how bout a sliding crane like in industrial buildings that way you can raise the car up hook up the engine to the hoist and then lower the engine like has been mentioned
2) i would put a couple of floursecents in the floor underneath a clear piece of polycarbonate or similar plastic...or on the lift rails
3) dish washer
4) fridge freezer (for food and beer and parts)
5) exhaust vent tubes in the garage doors like you ee at your local mechanic
6)
 

tofer76

Active member
Joined
Jan 29, 2005
Messages
28
Location
Burlington Ia
vfast said:
yes I'm putting one in my 2 car..dude looks like alot to install but you forgot a urnal....


we installed a deep double basin ss sink and the pvc drain pipe has a t in it right next to it going up with pvc pipe to a funnel(yes a oil funnel) viola urinal

just wizz in the funnel and run some water to flush
love not haveing to wait on 6 yes 6 girls in the can
 

gb387

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Joined
Jan 8, 2005
Messages
209
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
tofer76 said:
we installed a deep double basin ss sink and the pvc drain pipe has a t in it right next to it going up with pvc pipe to a funnel(yes a oil funnel) viola urinal

just wizz in the funnel and run some water to flush
love not haveing to wait on 6 yes 6 girls in the can


Like that idea. Cheap, simple but VERY useful!
 
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danski0224

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Joined
Jan 29, 2005
Messages
13,346
Location
Near Naperville, IL
My dream, given sufficient funds, would be a basement/shop under the garage space. This could be easily accomplished with Spancrete panels and a 2 inch topcoat.

Depending on the span, there would be no need for beams or columns underneath, and stairway access would be possible.
 

C_F

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Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Messages
9,675
Location
Utah...SNOW BLOWS!
danski0224 said:
My dream, given sufficient funds, would be a basement/shop under the garage space. This could be easily accomplished with Spancrete panels and a 2 inch topcoat.

Depending on the span, there would be no need for beams or columns underneath, and stairway access would be possible.
Would that be in a situation where say the elevation at the back of the garage is lower than the front, so you just go around back to get to the lower garage?

I've seen that done before, it works well. From the front of the house, it looks like a normal garage with a cement pad going around the side...once in back, there's 2 wide doors leading into the lower garage.
This one not only used the same area as the upper garage (3 car), but also went about 50' under one side of the house, with approximately a 30 foot awning that doubled as an upper deck (can't remember how much of that was garage roof & how much was overhang)...pretty cool.
 

casaleenie

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Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
69
Location
rocky river, ohio
Urinal
Slop sink
drains to sanitary
lots of electrical outlets\excessive lighting
Phone
Cable
Heat/Gas
Insulate walls and door
epoxy floor finish
Windows
Beverage cooler
:rocker:
Lounge chair

I'm thinking, I'm thinking...

Just in the process of building a 22 x 22 with a 17 x 9 bump on the back of the new garage. :thumbup:
 

danski0224

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Joined
Jan 29, 2005
Messages
13,346
Location
Near Naperville, IL
Would that be in a situation where say the elevation at the back of the garage is lower than the front, so you just go around back to get to the lower garage?

Not necessarily. I would like to do the Span Crete thing on level ground.

I have never priced it out, but it sure is a shame to let all that square footage get wasted under a slab.

The double decker thing would be nice, but probably way out of my price range...
 

OHEKK

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Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
79
Location
Wisconsin
Like TAJON said:Heated floors!

My father in law heats his garage floor with a water heater.

Before he poured the slab, he ran some plastic tubing and tie wrapped it to the steel mesh.

It sure is toasty in his garage. your feet are nice and warm and it was not terribly expensive.
 

Godzila

Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2005
Messages
9
Location
Galion, Ohio
Yup OK , I like also
Lots windows but with miniblinds and BURGLAR BARS
DVD/DLP Projector, surrounsdsound, 52"X92" screen & Speedchannel
Fridge/Microwave/ Poker table
Case of Scotch (Singlemalt)
 

6SpeedBowtie

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2005
Messages
70
Location
WV / MD
My old man used the slope of the back yard to integrate a two-level garage. Underground, he stores his summer cars and lawn equipment, upstairs he has a wood shop, and he had a storage loft built to provide additional storage.

In the summer months when he's rolling around in the verts, they stay in the upper level.

Next time I'm back home, I'll have to take a few pics and post them here (now that I've found this site.)
 

NoBars

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2006
Messages
22
Mill, Lathe, TIG, compressor, cell phone (you have been out there too long!)
 

Charles (in GA)

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Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
Too many variables and different situations to talk specifics of tools.

1) at least 12 ft, prefer higher, for lift, place for heat to rise, etc.
2) at least three wide bays, thus a building about 50x30 would be minimum.
3) If up north where it constantly stays cold, the heated floor is nice. difficult in the south, where its 20 one day, 70 the next.
4) waste/used oil fired boiler for floor heat, or waste/used oil furnace for forced air heat.
5) lots of compressed air. this is a basic. at least 5 hp two stage, possibly 7.5 hp two stage. fully plumbed loop air system with lots of drops.
6) lots of ambient light, skylights, side windows, or windows in doors. I put in a 12wx14h sectional garage door, 7 panels, five are glass, top and bottom are metal. Depends on your security situation. Some good mirror like reflective UV finish on the glass would take care of most security problems and the UV problem mentioned.
7) lots of electricity, at least a 200 amp panel with 40 full breaker slots. lots of outlets up high above work bench level, and welder outlets placed near the door (I won't weld inside) however a TIG booth would be nice if you are so inclined.
8) lighting, lots of it. I think I prefer Metal Halide, but T8 or T5 flourescent would be OK. Probably a mix.

Charles
 
Last edited:

Rickster

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Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
6,218
Location
SE PA
I'd start with a min two or three eletrical circuits just for the garage with plenty of outlets.
- Add in a 220 line for a good sized compressor and a MIG welder.
- Some heavy metal shelving sized to fit rubbermaid containers for storage.
- A workbench with a good vice.
- Plenty of good lighting with ceiling outlets.
- You'll need a couple of tool boxes with a floor jack and jackstands.
- A place to have a computer, stereo and a small fridge.
- Cable TV outlet near the ceiling for mounting a TV up high.
- Hot & Cold water outlets, floor drains and possibly a small sink.
- A toilet would be nice if it's a detached garage.
- Droplines with air hose and trouble lights.
- A nuts & bolts rack with plenty of steel drawers.
- A couple of metal storage cabinets for paint, oil, and the like.
 

428

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Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
305
Location
s.c.
Having built a 3 car plus, there are several things I'd have done different.

Right now it's 24' x 44', I'd have gone 28' deep.
I have a 10 ft ceiling. Adaquate, but 12' would be nice. However I have pull down attic stairs at each end, even at 10 ft they are a bear to handle, can't imagine how hard 12's would be so I'd put in some sort of permanent stairway, even if it's outside access.
A sitting-lounge area seems frivolous, but many time I'd like to be able to sit and relax. Watch the race or whatever while I take a break. Work bench stools hurt the back after awhile so I use folding chairs. Easy to hang on the wall out of the way.
A drain in one bay.
A paint booth that breaks down, which I'm working on.
Running water. Just a sink and hose is enough for me. But put in a 1/4 turn cut off valve and cut it off EVERYTIME you leave. Just like turning off the lights. A spray flood in a garage can cause serious problems.

If you can go full 8' attic height, plenty of new options become available.

Tools is to broad a subject.

I have a combo of wire shelving and cabinets. Mainly due to the cost for all cabinets. If cost wasn't an issue, all cabinets and nothing on the floor that doesn't have wheels.
Attic storage is very nice, easier access would make it better.
Heat and AC seem like a luxury, but I don't see how I could work in this area without it anymore. Spring and Fall are easy, but Summer and Winter are no fun in a garage here.

Whatever you decide on, you'll always find things afterward you'd do different if you had the chance.
 

Ryan Wilke

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Messages
89
Location
Michigan
....how about considering some safety alarms/provisions?

If you plan to have water piped in and your build location may see <32*F temps, you may want to take preventative measures to ensure your pipes don't freeze. If you don't plan to keep the space heated, consider installing a temperature alarm near the water pipes most likely to freeze (i.e., at an outside wall) that is wired to alarm INSIDE YOUR HOUSE. Set it with a few degrees of cushion, say, at 35*F.....

To guard against "unscheduled washdowns", do as '428' suggested, have a quick water dissconnect valve that you turn off before leaving the building. You don't want to discover a burst or leaking pipe by someone noticing water running out from under the door! Install it with metal piping up to the main feed valve and locate the valve in a handy location near your main entrance/exit, for obvious reasons.

How about including a heat/smoke alarm that also sounds off in your house? Way too many times a fire will develop AFTER you've left the building; especially if you plan to do any torching/welding/soldering inside the space.

Wood heat or direct-fired gas heaters are nice but you need to be diligent with keeping the area near them clear of any burnable dust, debris and/or materials. Radient heater (especially radient heat in the floor) is much safer, provides a more uniform heat throughout the space and requires no dust-speading fan....

As mentioned earlier, consider ventilation provisions. A powered exhaust fan located at the ceiling and a source for makeup air. Locate the exhaust fan at one end of the space and the makeup air source (even if it means just opening the door a foot or so when the fan is operating) at the other end of the space, to allow a 'flow-through' or 'sweeping-out' air flow. This will be most helpful against exhaust fume or paint vapor buildup during days when you simply don't want to open all the doors & windows.

RW :beer:
 

LSWHO

Active member
Joined
Aug 18, 2006
Messages
33
a Lift or two - doubles your parking instantly and cheaper than adding an addition on.
Ceiling height to accomodate a lift or two
width and depth to accomodate a lift or two
Drain
fully stocked bar with kegarator and tap
 
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