Wilton Vise - Need Help to Free Up Rusted Jaw

afeef745 · Mar 14, 2020

I picked this vise up few months ago, hoping to restore it. But now I think I might have gotten into something way over my head. Few specs about the vise. Has 6 inch jaws and weighs about 150 lbs. Overall about 24 inches long. Thats all I know about this vise.

Basically the jaws are rusted together and not wanting to move. Need ideas how to restore it and bring back to it former glory. Saw few videos on youtube but none that helpful.

Wondering what is a good way to get the jaws unstuck, without having to hammer it with sledge hammer as the guy in one video was doing to his 8 inch Wilton vise. Would electrolysis help to get rid of the rust inside keeping it from moving? Any other methods?

On a secondary note, how much is this vise worth? Just asking out of curiosity. Didnt buy to make money or flip. Want to restore it and give it a second life as they dont make it like they used to. Willing to put elbow grease into its restoration.

Hoping to get some help on this online forum. You folks were very helpful when I was restoring my first Wilton vise last year.

Thanks a lot!

seber · Mar 14, 2020

Electrolysis might help a little but it won't dig in much. If you can turn the screw, your best bet is to unscrew the three small machine screws holding the collar on the front of the dynamic jaw and unscrew the main shaft. Once the jaw is no longer held by the screw you can start banging on it to free it up. I'd use a two pound dead blow. It may take a lot of patience. You can also drive the two pins into the bore to free the main nut. That will have the same effect as removing the collar. Do not beat on the main screw or the nut. The screw is relatively soft steel and you can compress the threads to the point where they will no longer work in the nut.

JerryC · Mar 14, 2020

I had trailer hitch rusted to the receiver. No amount hammering would loosen it. I built contraption so I could let it soak in Evaporust and let it sit for a week. Took it out and two whacks with a hammer and it came apart.
Might work for you.

Shiftless · Mar 14, 2020

Evaporust

I use a lot of Evaporust. Try soaking the whole thing in that.

If you want to go big time with rust removal, you can spend about $100 and get a 5 gallon bucket of Evaporust and let it all hang out. It’s reusable.

Or

I know it’s a big vise. You can put your vise in a big zip lock bag or equivalent. Fill the bag with some Evaporust. Then drop the bag into a garbage can half full of water. Immersing it in water let’s you use a lot less Evaporust. You might only need one gallon. Leave it out in the sun or in a warm room for better action. After a few hours or a day you’ll see a big improvement. No risk in leaving it in too long. The chemical reaction stops when the rust is fully converted. All the surface rust will be converted to a black carbon easily brushed off under running water or removed with a pressure washer. That’s what I do.

Good chance it will free up the slide. If not, PM me. I had exactly the same problem with a Wilton 400

There is a big thread devoted to vise repair. Nearly 8000 posts. Try this link

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=252830

.

matt_i · Mar 14, 2020

I like Kroil. Out of a trigger spray bottle, you could buy a gallon or split it with a friend or relative.

Set it somewhere inside with the slide vertical where it won't fall - C-clamp or other

Get the interface wet every day...might take a month....and then it will be easier.

driz · Mar 14, 2020

Electrolysis. Just a 5 gallon drywall bucket some baking powder and anode and cathode scrap steel and unregulated charger or old 12 V battery. Let It bubble away for a couple of days and when it comes out the whole thing is going to be clean right to the bare steel, pits and all! Lots of YouTube videos on setups, very simple and ideal for projects this size . Dry immediately when done or rust will start again super fast.

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dadsEH · Mar 14, 2020

Molasses

Mohawk Dave · Mar 14, 2020

Rubbermaid bucket, Evaporust, and a jitterbug sander strapped to the Rubbermaid container which makes it a sorta Ultrasonic. That will work.

I use Citric Acid powder for the big heavy rusty stuff since Evaporust is $$$....but citric acid will flash rust so make sure you baking soda and water rinse it to neutralize. Then I'll put it in Evaporust for maybe an hour.

I just try to conserve my Evaporust.

This is the citric acid I buy. It will easily make 20+ gallons. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EYFKNL8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

1982fxr · Mar 15, 2020

Diesel

BD1 · Mar 15, 2020

If you want to try inexpensive, soak in white vinegar for a week.
As for pricing, location has impact on it. I've sold a few WILTON Bullet vises. All non swivel , great condition, straight sliding handle. Lowest was $200.00 and best was my 9400 which was in excellent condition $300.00. I listed one at a time and two weeks apart. Sold each vise within two days of posting, firm on prices.
Wilton Bullet vises seem to always be in demand.

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driz · Mar 15, 2020

Spraying it down with some good old Parks Phosphoric Acid ( hardware / paint store) will act just like Naval Jelly to keep it from rusting when you remove from the solution. It leaves a nice black coating that forms a chemical bond with any remaining microscopic rust . Paint sticks very nicely to it as well .

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AngryBeaver · Mar 15, 2020

if you have the means to make an electrolysis tank, then by all means try it first. Molasses doesn't work on frozen parts and takes 10x a long to remove just normal surface rust. evaporust is going to be expensive to buy enough to submerge that vise. evaporust, like molasses doesn't work well on tight tolerance seized things. It works great for surface rust. Electrolysis is the only thing I've found that work on frozen wiltons. I'd recommend taking the tail cap off when you soak it.

realistically your 600 its worth 4-500 restored. Good luck.

Packard V8 · Mar 15, 2020

Just remember, a vise is the same cast iron which gets heated, blasted and then reused every day in automotive engine rebuilding.

Back when I had access to industrial equipment, including a large rosebud torch, I freed up a similarly rusted vise in five minutes time. We submerged the movable jaw in a pan of water and heated the fixed base with the torch. When it got hot enough to begin to show some color, we lifted it out of the water with heat-resistant gloves and set it on a steel workbench. The guy with the gloves held the hot side and the other guy turned the handle; the previously rusted-solid movable jaw slid right out.

When disassembled, all the parts went into the shot blast cabinet and came out looking like new. A wipe-down with oil and it's been in service for many years.

jack vines.

afeef745 · Mar 15, 2020

Thanks a lot for all the info guys. I am gonna respond to some with follow up questions.

afeef745 · Mar 15, 2020

seber said:
Electrolysis might help a little but it won't dig in much. If you can turn the screw, your best bet is to unscrew the three small machine screws holding the collar on the front of the dynamic jaw and unscrew the main shaft. Once the jaw is no longer held by the screw you can start banging on it to free it up. I'd use a two pound dead blow. It may take a lot of patience. You can also drive the two pins into the bore to free the main nut. That will have the same effect as removing the collar. Do not beat on the main screw or the nut. The screw is relatively soft steel and you can compress the threads to the point where they will no longer work in the nut.

driz said:
Electrolysis. Just a 5 gallon drywall bucket some baking powder and anode and cathode scrap steel and unregulated charger or old 12 V battery. Let It bubble away for a couple of days and when it comes out the whole thing is going to be clean right to the bare steel, pits and all! Lots of YouTube videos on setups, very simple and ideal for projects this size . Dry immediately when done or rust will start again super fast.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

AngryBeaver said:
if you have the means to make an electrolysis tank, then by all means try it first. Molasses doesn't work on frozen parts and takes 10x a long to remove just normal surface rust. evaporust is going to be expensive to buy enough to submerge that vise. evaporust, like molasses doesn't work well on tight tolerance seized things. It works great for surface rust. Electrolysis is the only thing I've found that work on frozen wiltons. I'd recommend taking the tail cap off when you soak it.

realistically your 600 its worth 4-500 restored. Good luck.

I thought electrolysis works only in line of sight, like only visible areas not in areas hidden like this vise has. Correct me if I am wrong. Thanks

afeef745 · Mar 15, 2020

Mohawk Dave said:
Rubbermaid bucket, Evaporust, and a jitterbug sander strapped to the Rubbermaid container which makes it a sorta Ultrasonic. That will work.

I use Citric Acid powder for the big heavy rusty stuff since Evaporust is $$$....but citric acid will flash rust so make sure you baking soda and water rinse it to neutralize. Then I'll put it in Evaporust for maybe an hour.

I just try to conserve my Evaporust.

This is the citric acid I buy. It will easily make 20+ gallons. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EYFKNL8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Not sure what is a Jitterbug sander. Like just a normal palm sander?

afeef745 · Mar 15, 2020

Shiftless said:
Evaporust

I use a lot of Evaporust. Try soaking the whole thing in that.

If you want to go big time with rust removal, you can spend about $100 and get a 5 gallon bucket of Evaporust and let it all hang out. It’s reusable.

Or

I know it’s a big vise. You can put your vise in a big zip lock bag or equivalent. Fill the bag with some Evaporust. Then drop the bag into a garbage can half full of water. Immersing it in water let’s you use a lot less Evaporust. You might only need one gallon. Leave it out in the sun or in a warm room for better action. After a few hours or a day you’ll see a big improvement. No risk in leaving it in too long. The chemical reaction stops when the rust is fully converted. All the surface rust will be converted to a black carbon easily brushed off under running water or removed with a pressure washer. That’s what I do.

Good chance it will free up the slide. If not, PM me. I had exactly the same problem with a Wilton 400

There is a big thread devoted to vise repair. Nearly 8000 posts. Try this link

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=252830

.

Thanks for all the info. Will let you know if I cant get it unstuck.

afeef745 · Mar 15, 2020

driz said:
Spraying it down with some good old Parks Phosphoric Acid ( hardware / paint store) will act just like Naval Jelly to keep it from rusting when you remove from the solution. It leaves a nice black coating that forms a chemical bond with any remaining microscopic rust . Paint sticks very nicely to it as well .

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks. Will try that when I have it unstuck and ready to paint.

Shelbylex · Mar 15, 2020

If everything else fails, there is a video on YouTube somewhere with guy using large press on similarly stuck Wilton (which I think was also 6” jaw model)
As a last resort I would check if any GJ member has a large press

Davefr · Mar 15, 2020

afeef745 said:
Thanks for all the info. Will let you know if I cant get it unstuck.

A 5 gallon pail of Evaporust will cost $$$'s.

Here's a better plan unless you're in a hurry. It's also the easiest. Go to a feed store and buy a pail of feed grade Molasses for $15-20. Add 15% Molasses and 85% water in a 5 gallon bucket or tote. Immerse the vise. Let it sit for a few weeks and all the rust should be gone. It would work best if you can place it in a warm location.

afeef745 · Mar 15, 2020

Shelbylex said:
If everything else fails, there is a video on YouTube somewhere with guy using large press on similarly stuck Wilton (which I think was also 6” jaw model)
As a last resort I would check if any GJ member has a large press

Yea I know the video you are talking about. Unfortunately I do not have any machinist tools as I am not a machinist.

Dozerhand · Mar 15, 2020

https://redirect.viglink.com/?forma...t=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cMNvaSkZaDw

There was an interesting video on that on GJ a couple years ago. I hope the link works

Shade guy · Mar 15, 2020

Take a look at this

https://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4311

greg13 · Mar 15, 2020

My method would be too hard for you, so just box it up and send it to me. I'll get it back to you when I'm done with it....In a few years! :lol_hitti

RTM · Mar 16, 2020

Shiftless said:
I know it’s a big vise. You can put your vise in a big zip lock bag or equivalent. Fill the bag with some Evaporust. Then drop the bag into a garbage can half full of water. Immersing it in water let’s you use a lot less Evaporust. You might only need one gallon.

.

Oh that’s a good one I hadn’t heard before, great tip!

barnonline · Mar 17, 2020

afeef745 said:
I thought electrolysis works only in line of sight, like only visible areas not in areas hidden like this vise has. Correct me if I am wrong. Thanks

You are right, electrolysis only work in line of sight.

So if something is rusted together, electrolysis is not the best option.

Use a chemical solution (no pun intended).
Usually heat (lukewarm or more) and agitation of the fluid speed up the process.

RTM · Mar 17, 2020

I think electrolysis works best line of sight, but once the easy rust is gone, I think it does continue to work on the rest of the rust, just slower. I have had it work on multiple surfaces of a WW plane, but the flat sides closest to the sacrificial went fastest.

TexasT · Mar 17, 2020

I had a stuck one. Did the pull the horse shoe thing as suggested above and put a splinting wedge in there and hit it with the sledge hammer a couple times to get it to move and soaked it down in atf/acetone some more. Finally go it freed up. Now I keep it well greased.

driz · Mar 17, 2020

afeef745 said:
I thought electrolysis works only in line of sight, like only visible areas not in areas hidden like this vise has. Correct me if I am wrong. Thanks

It’s not really line of sight. It’s just faster near the sacrificial annode . That’s why it’s best to have in in several places like a circle.
I can’t swear that that will free it up. But it will get rid of most of the rest of the rust that’s everyplace on something like that right down to the pits if you let it sit long enough.

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Jacksonsman · Mar 18, 2020

driz said:
It’s not really line of sight. It’s just faster near the sacrificial annode . That’s why it’s best to have in in several places like a circle.
I can’t swear that that will free it up. But it will get rid of most of the rest of the rust that’s everyplace on something like that right down to the pits if you let it sit long enough.

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kythri · Mar 18, 2020

Jacksonsman said:
Knjjjjkjkkjjjjjjjjjjjj.lo jk

Agreed!

Rickster · Mar 18, 2020

Trans fluid soak. Use all the time for ratchets, works great. Nice vice, worth the price of a bucket and several qts of ATF. Let it soak for at least a week, more if needed.

driz · Mar 18, 2020

Rickster said:
Trans fluid soak. Use all the time for ratchets, works great. Nice vice, worth the price of a bucket and several qts of ATF. Let it soak for at least a week, more if needed.

And for the unknowing......yes the old drained stuff is as good as new for these things so save a couple ****** drains for these things

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ddawg16 · Mar 18, 2020

I'd use either Vinegar or Phosphoric acid....a lot cheaper than Evaporust....

Then soak that baby in transmission oil....I find it works really well with cast iron....

warren.albert.77 · Mar 18, 2020

Soak in a bucket of ATF

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afeef745 · Mar 19, 2020

Thanks for all the info. I will post when I start this project. Much appreciated.

toolmiser · Mar 20, 2020

You just need patients. Start soaking with your favorite rust penetrate, reapplying a couple times a day if not more. Keep doing it for weeks. If you can soak it all the better. Best advice is not to beat on it, that usually never ends well.

BFBOB · Mar 20, 2020

I'm a BIG fan of electrolysis, but for this booger, I'd start by soaking it a a bucket full of some solvent or other. Paint thinner, diesel, mineral spirits, ATF, whatever's cheapest to cover it. (That leaves Evaporust out for sure!).
This will not remove the rust but should soak into its innards and free it up enough to get it moving. Use only the gentlest persuasion - you can get aggressive later. Time is on your side. Let it soak a week for starters. Unlike nearly every other liquid on this planet, the ones mentioned above will NOT remove any good steel.

Once you get it moving enough to disassemble (could take a long time!) THEN electrolysis does a great job of removing the rust.

driz · Mar 21, 2020

kythri said:
Agreed!

That’s what’s interesting with an iPad . Just set your fingers down and think about something else. Just like Forrest Gump says, Just like a box of chocolates.......[emoji1782]ya never know[emoji3061]

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Wilton Vise - Need Help to Free Up Rusted Jaw

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