6 years old Zone Garage Polyurea floor peeling off

Hi Everyone.

Seeking help from fellow members as I am tired of constantly re-doing the garage floor every couple years.

Back in the days in 2007-2008 I installed a race deck black and white diamond tile. After couple years of having to replace the white tiles due to discolouration, got rid of it to have a professionally job done by Zone Garage. Note the warranty from Race Deck was spot on and they always provided replacement tiles at no cost, hats off to them. Not the same can be said about Zone Garage.

After 2-3 months after installation of Polyurea from Zone Garage, it started suffering from discolouration on the path where the tires would roll in and out. Contacted them and after weeks of fighting, was told no warranty on tire marks ? A garage floor not able to cope with tires, not sure I understand the logic but lived with it.

Now, after a bit of work in the garage putting up the flowers pots, I swiped the floor only to realize there was huge areas peeling off completely. You just grab it with your fingers and big chunks are lifting off. Now I am tired of having to constantly having to re-do the same job over and over. I am now thinking of diamond grinding it all and laying porcelain tiles. Many car dealers have tiles in their drive through and this appears to work fine for them. Any opinion on this ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Here are pictures for ref of the situation.

Good threads and real good links one of the vendors put up in the past.

http://allgaragefloors.com/porcelain-tile-garage-floor/

http://allgaragefloors.com/porcelain...oor-questions/

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305707

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305707

egdede said:

Good threads and real good links one of the vendors put up in the past.

http://allgaragefloors.com/porcelain-tile-garage-floor/

http://allgaragefloors.com/porcelain...oor-questions/

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305707

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305707

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Thank you very much. Will read through this in detail.

If you need more info start a thread that doesn't look solely like a 'failed floor' thread. Seems really important to have the correct porcelain tile appropriately bedded. Or, put another way, the right materials installed right. (In Captain obvious voice): Isn't it funny how often problems are traced back to either improper materials, improper installation or a combination of both? : )

That is so heart breaking to look at that. My shop has been up for 8 years and, after seeing failed epoxy floor after failed epoxy floor....plus the expense....I’m still leaning toward the VCT floor covering.

rburke65 said:

That is so heart breaking to look at that. My shop has been up for 8 years and, after seeing failed epoxy floor after failed epoxy floor....plus the expense....I’m still leaning toward the VCT floor covering.

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The more I learn about it the more I lean towards it.

My guess is any slab with an inadequate vapor barrier under the concrete is susceptible to moisture coming up through the slab and breaking the epoxy bond. That, and not etching the concrete before applying the epoxy. Those floors look great when brand new, but.....

I plan to simply clean and clear seal my new shop garage floor rather than any epoxy style coating. I only want some resistance to oil, grease, fluids etc. Before my slab was poured I laid 6ml vapor barrier and then 2" of foam insulation below the concrete. Under the foam is 8" to 12" of packed reground asphalt on top of sandy soil.

My ceramic tiles cost me .59 per square foot. I installed them myself, having never installed tile. They've held up to 13 years of use.

I have a video in some of those old threads of me hitting the floor with a 4-lb sledge. I could spill a gallon of paint stripper on the stuff and leave it there for a week. I can spraypaint my name on the floor and clean it up with a razor blade.

I like tile. (And porcelain is even better than ceramic.)

Porcelain tile is the ultimate!

Jack Olsen said:

My ceramic tiles cost me .59 per square foot. I installed them myself, having never installed tile. They've held up to 13 years of use.

I have a video in some of those old threads of me hitting the floor with a 4-lb sledge. I could spill a gallon of paint stripper on the stuff and leave it there for a week. I can spraypaint my name on the floor and clean it up with a razor blade.

I like tile. (And porcelain is even better than ceramic.)

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I already have porcelain tiles all around the garage, except the floor... I should have known better and have tiles everywhere and not spend that much $ on epoxy / polyaspartic . I am now looking for a floor rectifier for stripping it all and just tile it all.

Did you used uncoupling membrane like Schluter Ditra as base ?

Thanks

andyvh1959 said:

My guess is any slab with an inadequate vapor barrier under the concrete is susceptible to moisture coming up through the slab and breaking the epoxy bond. That, and not etching the concrete before applying the epoxy. Those floors look great when brand new, but.....

I plan to simply clean and clear seal my new shop garage floor rather than any epoxy style coating. I only want some resistance to oil, grease, fluids etc. Before my slab was poured I laid 6ml vapor barrier and then 2" of foam insulation below the concrete. Under the foam is 8" to 12" of packed reground asphalt on top of sandy soil.

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I agree with you, there are no vapour barrier under the slab, my house was built in 1986 and there were no such things done back then.

I did not use Ditra. I used the basic thinset. My slab was poured in 1925, so the chance of their being a functioning barrier underneath it is essentially zero. The slab was heaved and filthy. I got some patching concrete to fill in the low spots. I used a cheap power washer on it, but that was it.





I'm at year 12. Everything's holding up great.

I can't think of a good reason NOT to use Ditra, though. If I did it again, I would use self-leveling concrete to address the heaving and probably Redgard over that, since Ditra is expensive. I used Redgard on a porch I built two years ago for the front of my house and have been very happy with the results so far.

Jack Olsen said:

I did not use Ditra. I used the basic thinset. My slab was poured in 1925, so the chance of their being a functioning barrier underneath it is essentially zero. The slab was heaved and filthy. I got some patching concrete to fill in the low spots. I used a cheap power washer on it, but that was it.

I'm at year 12. Everything's holding up great.

I can't think of a good reason NOT to use Ditra, though. If I did it again, I would use self-leveling concrete to address the heaving and probably Redgard over that, since Ditra is expensive. I used Redgard on a porch I built two years ago for the front of my house and have been very happy with the results so far.

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Thank you for the valuable feedback. I am awaiting some quotes to have the epoxy removed at this point.