Shocker
Well-known member
Hey all, I decided to take advantage of the weather and build a carport on the side of the shop. I picked up some incorrectly ordered mono trusses for $120 and got to work!
THE STARTING POINT! 9ft wide and about 20ft long (retaining wall kept me from going the full 24ft.
TRUSSES - They are 3/12 pitch, 9ft 1 5/8's. 18" overhang.
PIER BLOCKS - I used these pre-cast pier blocks. I wasn't sure how they would work. They are 12" at the base and about 12" tall.
POST MOUNTING - Used about 1.5 bags of Sakrete quick setup 5000PSI concrete mix per pier.
POST UP - 3 of the 4 posts are up. They are 7 feet apart. Connected with a pressure treated 2x6
LEDGER BOARD - It is a Doug Fir 2x6. I nailed it level with 3.5 16d nails and then added the 5" ledgerboard screws from QuikTite.
No drilling required and very strong. Patteren was 2.1.2.1.2.1.2 along the length into the studs.
TRUSSES UP - All 12 trusses are up. 24" on center (the last one is 13" on center to the end of the ledger).
I used standard hurricane ties at all 3 mounting points. It is amazing how much difference between the trusses. 1/4" here and there. No big deal.
TRUSSES FROM THE BACK - You can see the use of more ledger board screws on the posts.
TRUSSES FROM THE SIDE
OH NO. BLUE TARP! - Couldn't beat the rain. Tar paper is down, but I wanted to protect it all.
And that is where it stands. I will take pics of how I am doing the roof to wall connection. I have already applied a liberal amount of sealant to the joint where the roof sheeting meets the wall. Tar paper 5" up the wall with some adhesive. I plan on using the 3x5 flashing with adhesive to the wall and then a 6.5" Hardie Plank board heavily caulked to the wall to keep water from infiltrating. Pulling up the siding wasn't an option. I am hoping that with the eave above it, it will be enough. Time will tell.
Now that the decking is down, the thing is solid as a rock. Those blocks worked great!
The conduit will get a 2 piece silicon boot flashing as well.
More to come when I get a clear day. 30 year Pabco architectural comp roof to go on. Same as the shop and house.
THE STARTING POINT! 9ft wide and about 20ft long (retaining wall kept me from going the full 24ft.
TRUSSES - They are 3/12 pitch, 9ft 1 5/8's. 18" overhang.
PIER BLOCKS - I used these pre-cast pier blocks. I wasn't sure how they would work. They are 12" at the base and about 12" tall.
POST MOUNTING - Used about 1.5 bags of Sakrete quick setup 5000PSI concrete mix per pier.
POST UP - 3 of the 4 posts are up. They are 7 feet apart. Connected with a pressure treated 2x6
LEDGER BOARD - It is a Doug Fir 2x6. I nailed it level with 3.5 16d nails and then added the 5" ledgerboard screws from QuikTite.
No drilling required and very strong. Patteren was 2.1.2.1.2.1.2 along the length into the studs.
TRUSSES UP - All 12 trusses are up. 24" on center (the last one is 13" on center to the end of the ledger).
I used standard hurricane ties at all 3 mounting points. It is amazing how much difference between the trusses. 1/4" here and there. No big deal.
TRUSSES FROM THE BACK - You can see the use of more ledger board screws on the posts.
TRUSSES FROM THE SIDE
OH NO. BLUE TARP! - Couldn't beat the rain. Tar paper is down, but I wanted to protect it all.
And that is where it stands. I will take pics of how I am doing the roof to wall connection. I have already applied a liberal amount of sealant to the joint where the roof sheeting meets the wall. Tar paper 5" up the wall with some adhesive. I plan on using the 3x5 flashing with adhesive to the wall and then a 6.5" Hardie Plank board heavily caulked to the wall to keep water from infiltrating. Pulling up the siding wasn't an option. I am hoping that with the eave above it, it will be enough. Time will tell.
Now that the decking is down, the thing is solid as a rock. Those blocks worked great!
The conduit will get a 2 piece silicon boot flashing as well.
More to come when I get a clear day. 30 year Pabco architectural comp roof to go on. Same as the shop and house.
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