rburke65
Well-known member
Hi Guys and Gals.....For everyone that has OSB in their shops and garages, are you happy with it? Would you do anything different if you were to do it again? Looking for some input before I build. Thanks
Pros and Cons of OSB
- Thread starter rburke65
- Start date
D KRAGER
Well-known member
I'm happy with mine, I left the walls alone unpainted. I kind of like the look of osb. When I get my ceiling done, I will probably paint it for light reflection.
I like the fact that if you want to hang something light you don't have to hit the stud.
I like the fact that if you want to hang something light you don't have to hit the stud.
car99r
Well-known member
I kind of wish now I woul dhave taken a little extra time and caulked the seams withs omething just to give a more even appearance. However, I am very happy I went with OSB. Still looks good and I can hang anything anywhere.
The drawback is lots of paint! I used over 3 - 5 gallon buckets. The trick is to go to your local paint store and ask for miss-tints. Normally sold for pennies on the dollar. I think I bought paint that was usually 42.00/gallon for 1.00/gallon.
Couple pics for you. Couple up close and one standing back a little.
The drawback is lots of paint! I used over 3 - 5 gallon buckets. The trick is to go to your local paint store and ask for miss-tints. Normally sold for pennies on the dollar. I think I bought paint that was usually 42.00/gallon for 1.00/gallon.
Couple pics for you. Couple up close and one standing back a little.
D KRAGER
Well-known member
My walls, I just hung. NO paint, no caulk, No furring strips, I was very **** about each cut. I have no gaps at all. My buddy that's a carpenter complimented me on all the seams.
benjamming
Well-known member
What if you have floor drains & wash vehicles in there during winter/rainy times? How does the comparison of drywall vs. OSB stack up? Of course, I'm talking about purple and/or green drywall, not the std stuff.
I have in the attached 2 car garage, plain old dry wall, and all I do in the winter is pull one car out, put the vehicle "to be washed" in the middle of the garage and wash it.....Your not exactly in there hosing down the walls!........a little less water pressure, be aware of the business end of the hose.....never had any problems.
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car99r
Well-known member
Why would you wash the car inside the garage? I guess I never really thought about washing my car inside...lol Even during the winter. Normally just wait for it to warm up outside a little and wash it out there.
I caulked with paintable caulk. I didn't do a great job but it looks better than if I'd left it alone. Once I'm finished I'll have pics up.
I guess maybe the question should be - pros and cons of OSB in comparison to what? If you are comparing it to drywall then I guess the pros would be that you will have a solid wall that is more damage resistant, and you will never need to find a stud unless you are hanging something very heavy. OSB is also more water resistant and it adds quite a bit of strength to the wall itself.
I can't really say anything about cost since that varies based upon what thickness of OSB versus the type of drywall. I'm guessing OSB will be a tad more expensive but the cost to "finish" is much less provided you don't plan on installing extra boards over the seams etc.
The negatives of OSB would be that it will never look quite as smooth and finished as drywall and you will always see the "grain" of the wood as well as the joints. It is also harder to patch holes and get them to blend in. Personally I prefer the look of drywall anytime, but I realize in a true working shop it probably isn't the best choice.
Now if you are comparing OSB to another material such as plywood or corrugated steel - then it is a totally different ballgame.
I can't really say anything about cost since that varies based upon what thickness of OSB versus the type of drywall. I'm guessing OSB will be a tad more expensive but the cost to "finish" is much less provided you don't plan on installing extra boards over the seams etc.
The negatives of OSB would be that it will never look quite as smooth and finished as drywall and you will always see the "grain" of the wood as well as the joints. It is also harder to patch holes and get them to blend in. Personally I prefer the look of drywall anytime, but I realize in a true working shop it probably isn't the best choice.
Now if you are comparing OSB to another material such as plywood or corrugated steel - then it is a totally different ballgame.
denis4x4
Well-known member
I have drains all across the openings of the garage so I can wash my cars inside.
There is something about OSB that attracts porcupines and I've had to install sheet metal on exposed exterior OSB on my mountain cabin.
There is something about OSB that attracts porcupines and I've had to install sheet metal on exposed exterior OSB on my mountain cabin.
Yes I am happy with it.
I'd use a straight edge when cutting the sheets and I need to repaint the upper section white instead of the dark gray.
Yes, I'd use it again.
tcianci
Well-known member
Lots of folks seem to like it. I think that is is somewhat out of place when you see someone go through hoops and sweat bullets agonizing over the epoxy floor, yielding a floor job that is way too good for a shop environment and then slap this cheap, smelly, formaldehyde-out gassing excuse for sheathing on the walls. Some guys say that they hate to tape or they can't do it...LEARN. You have many more walls in your house that will need repair or remodeling and you ain't gonna get away with OSB in there. In the Northeast, we use blueboard and veneer plaster. It is the fastest, cleanest wall finish available and believe or not it's something you can learn to do too. In fact on most jobs with a light skip-trowel ceiling finish, we never even paint it. It goes up white and looks good. With a veneer plaster finish, you hang, tape, plaster, DONE! The next day you are hanging trim. Time is money and shaving days of a project outweighs ANY material savings realized by using drywall or OSB.
rpsurfr
Well-known member
Just painted my OSB, used it for years with out paint. Took a while, more than I thought to coat it. However, it is very durable. I can attach stuff to it with ease and the semi gloss paint I used is a great at keeping it dry. I would think drywall would have been damaged by now.
The only issue I have is the fit is not as good, you can see the seams, so I caulked them. Looks better but still lumpy- If you work in your shop go for it, I would have destroyed dry wall.
The only issue I have is the fit is not as good, you can see the seams, so I caulked them. Looks better but still lumpy- If you work in your shop go for it, I would have destroyed dry wall.
Some of us just want OSB over the drywall or other "plaster" options.
snowdevil
Active member
what do you use to fill the seams of the sheets ? what if i was to use 1/2 plywood?
I want a smooth look with out seeing all the seams....
I want a smooth look with out seeing all the seams....
If you use a circular saw to cut the sheets, make sure to use a straight edge to keep the cuts nice. If you take the time to keep the sheets square, you really won't have a gap.
ScaldedDog
Well-known member
How about both? I hung OSB, then drywalled over it. My purpose was mostly in noise suppression - I caulked the studs, and between the OSB and drywall - but it's nice to have smooth walls and still be able to hang stuff anywhere. The downside is finding the studs when it's necessary to do so. Very difficult!
Mark
Mark
Shocker
Well-known member
I hung OSB and I am pretty happy. I knew what I was getting into regarding the finish. I used Kilz oil based primer before going over with exterior semi gloss latex (Walmart Colorplace). So far, it has taken only 3/4 of a gallon of each white and grey to get about 3/4 of the shop done.
TheShrine
Well-known member
I like mine and do not plan to paint it. I have plenty of light, installed and natural, but I can see where some would prefer it painted. When it is all said and done....I'd do it again.
Falcon67
Well-known member
I DID learn - and I STILL HATE tape and bed! I use painted paneling in the house to avoid tape and bed at all costs. So there!
checkthisout
Well-known member
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- Sep 5, 2008
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That last shop looks pretty good but I agree that drywall is a much better surface, not to mention the fact that it stops fire.
And not to mention the other fact that in most places, if you use OSB you have to fire caulk the seems and then cover them up with some sort of batten if you want to get finaled.
And not to mention the other fact that in most places, if you use OSB you have to fire caulk the seems and then cover them up with some sort of batten if you want to get finaled.
Eazy716
Well-known member
I used OSB in my shop/garage and I'm very glad I chose OSB over drywall.
I also used paintable caulk on all the seams, then painted with Kilz primer/sealer. Works very well.
I also used paintable caulk on all the seams, then painted with Kilz primer/sealer. Works very well.
To properly install OSB, you need a minimum 1/8" gap on all edges and around all openings to allow for expansion/contraction due to moisture content.
Stuntmonkey
Well-known member
You must be hanging something really heavy if you need to find a stud with OSB backed drywall.
HoosierBuddy
Well-known member
I went with t1-11 for my interior siding.
It's exterior grade, so some water won't hurt it.
It has edges that are designed to be overlaped so the seams disappear. I think it looks great. I just left mine unfinished, but you could stain it or paint it or whatever if you wanted to.
Phil
It's exterior grade, so some water won't hurt it.
It has edges that are designed to be overlaped so the seams disappear. I think it looks great. I just left mine unfinished, but you could stain it or paint it or whatever if you wanted to.
Phil
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nonhog
Well-known member
I went with t1-11 for my interior siding.
It's exterior grade, so some water won't hurt it.
It has edges that are designed to be overlaped so the seams disappear. I think it looks great. I just left mine unfinished, but you could stain it or paint it or whatever if you wanted to.
Phil
That looks sharp !
skeletonizer
Well-known member
Mine is still in progress but I have used the building for it's intended purpose enough to know that I am not going to regret using OSB at all.
I painted mine over a coat of Kilz latex. One nice perk is that if you need to get into a wall you can just uncrew the sheet and remove it. I found this out the hard way as I forgot to put a dedicated outlet for a fridge and had to add it after the fact. Had I been drywalled I would have been drinking warm beer.
I made sure (since I used 7/16 all around) that the edges of each panel on the ceiling was supported and screwed every foot to prevent sagging. I also bridged the 2' from truss to truss along the long axis of the sheet as the grade stamp indicated that this was the strength axis. I did not know OSB had a strength axis until this project got rolling. It is not the only thing I learned.
I painted mine over a coat of Kilz latex. One nice perk is that if you need to get into a wall you can just uncrew the sheet and remove it. I found this out the hard way as I forgot to put a dedicated outlet for a fridge and had to add it after the fact. Had I been drywalled I would have been drinking warm beer.
I made sure (since I used 7/16 all around) that the edges of each panel on the ceiling was supported and screwed every foot to prevent sagging. I also bridged the 2' from truss to truss along the long axis of the sheet as the grade stamp indicated that this was the strength axis. I did not know OSB had a strength axis until this project got rolling. It is not the only thing I learned.
Stinger
Well-known member
I'm still finishing mine up (just completed the first coat of paint after using 12 gallons of primer) and I can say one thing I've learned. Seam sealing with paintable caulk made it look 1000 times better because it eliminated any shadows in the seams and made the walls look "finished", especially in the corners. It also acts like a vapor barrier once it is sealed up.
ddawg16
Well-known member
One MAJOR little problem with OSB....FIRE!
Most codes require 5/8" drywall....especially if one wall is next to a house or close (< 5') to someone else's property.
If you get a small fire in the garage...the OSB is going to go up like a match.
Most codes require 5/8" drywall....especially if one wall is next to a house or close (< 5') to someone else's property.
If you get a small fire in the garage...the OSB is going to go up like a match.
skeletonizer
Well-known member
Two schools of thought on fires. Try to minimize and save or hope to he// it's a total loss and replace everything. (with the exception of course being your fire's ability to spread to other persons property which would be bad despite my neighbor being a douchebag)
Like crashing a car I hope it's a total as I don't want to live with a half *** repair job. I don't really have an emotional attachment to material things.
If the fire is something that happens when you are in the shop you should be able to get it under control even of the shop is made of old newspapers unless you are a complete panic. I know a few of those and they can be entertaining to be around but not when tools, guns, or fire is involved. I have seen grown men nearly piss themselves over bursts of flame and/or loud noises. Funny and sad at the same time.
hetkind
Banned
OSB going up like a match? I don't think so, due to all the glue, it actually kind of tough to get started...
Now, once you have a fire built against it with the OSB vertical and unprotected, you can get a decent surface burn. But under those conditions, the paper on regular wall board will also burn pretty good, then the gypsum will crumble and burn through. It makes a decent 30 minute fire wall.
Did you know that NFPA andOSHA allows fireproof flammable cabinets to be made out of plywood?
Howard
Now, once you have a fire built against it with the OSB vertical and unprotected, you can get a decent surface burn. But under those conditions, the paper on regular wall board will also burn pretty good, then the gypsum will crumble and burn through. It makes a decent 30 minute fire wall.
Did you know that NFPA andOSHA allows fireproof flammable cabinets to be made out of plywood?
Howard
I just put a coat of Kilz on my ceiling OSB , my building is 30 by 34 and it took a little over 4 gallons. Did I mention I hate painting. It covered pretty well, now I can get a coat of semi gloss white latex on there so I can get some lights in there working. Caulked the big cracks and gaps, think its going to look ok and should reflect light down pretty well once its done. did I mention I hate painting?
jumbo61
Well-known member
You can use a fire retardant paint. Probably $$ but will give you some peace of mind.
http://www.contegointernational.com/
APEowner
Well-known member
I had an incident in the shop today that made me glad I chose drywall. I happened to notice a flickering reflection out of the corner of my eye in one of the windows. When I went around my big roll cab, which is right in the middle of my 24 x 40 shop, I found that the plastic bags covering a pair of cylinder heads and an engine block were on fire. The oil those parts were coated in was helping the blaze along. There was a pretty good draft on the side of the parts up against the wall. I put the fire out with a bottle of water I keep around for just that sort of thing and aside from one small dark spot on the wall the damage was limited to the plastic bags. I'm not sure that OSB would have held up so well. Apparently a spark from the plasma cutter had made it's way across the shop. Anyway, the incident made me renew my commitment to my policies of hanging out in the shop for at least 1/2 an hour after I do any welding or cutting and keeping at least one bottle of water out there. I also have a fire extinguisher but I don't like to use it if I don't have to.