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I want to build some shelves...how to?

bmwpower

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15-18" deep, made of wood

They need to have no supports to the ground, everything attached to the wall. I need to drive my tractor underneath.

They're not going to be holding anything heavy, just typical garage junk, chemicals, etc.

What's the best way? Should I use metal brackets instead of wood for support?
 
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REFLEXX

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BMdub power,

This is why I don't get much sleep. I overthink things...

I'm not sure what they're called, but it's a slotted "rail" that bolts to the 2x4's behind the wall and then you have these horizontal metal brackets that lock into the rails.

1. You can add/subtract shelves or vary the distance between them.
2. More tracks for added strength.
3. Different depth shelves on the same wall.
4. Unlimited heights.
5. Color choices
6. Uses standard wood or melamine shelves. Even glass!!!
7. available at the Big Boxes.


BTW, that was your 2002nd post (think BMW)
 

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bmwpower

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Wow, 2002. I didn't even realize. Someday I will have one...

Back to shelves....That sounds like a good alternative to building wood brackets. Probably much stronger too.

I also found these brackets. They're supposed to be pretty strong.

http://www.johnsterling.com/maxbrackets.htm

Nothing wrong with overthinking things. I just spent ~ 3 hours (literally) staring at my garage walls wondering what I'm going to do.
 

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Rickster

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I like to use those brackets that you identified with the triangular support. Seems I always wind up putting heavier things on those shelves than I originally planned. Also, those triangular supports are great for holding extra mouldings and paint roller estensions, anything long and narrow just slides trough them and is held to the wall. Another thing you mant to design in is to purchase a bunch of plastic bins and size the shelf spacing to fit the bin height. It will clean up the look of a messy open shelf area.
 

BigEd

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I used metal brackets that look like the ones in your picture, but I got them at Home Depot. I ripped a 4' X 8' piece of 5/8" plywood into three 16" wide by 8' long shelves. Lag bolted the brackets to the studs and screwed the shelves to the brackets. Works fine and don't have to worry too much about weight on the shelves.
 

DIGGER_DAVE

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REFLEXX said:
... but it's a slotted "rail" that bolts to the 2x4's behind the wall and then you have these horizontal metal brackets that lock into the rails.

1. You can add/subtract shelves or vary the distance between them.
2. More tracks for added strength.
3. Different depth shelves on the same wall.
4. Unlimited heights.
5. Color choices
6. Uses standard wood or melamine shelves. Even glass!!!
7. available at the Big Boxes.

In addition to the ones you show; there is a "heavy duty" sloted rail and horizontal shelf support system. (same degree of flexibility/adjustment)
The "heavy duty" system is rated at 300 pounds per single 12 inch horizontal shelf support! (they look identical; just made of heavier material)
The load rating drops as the shelf support is extended (24 inch supports are rated at 100 pounds at the ends)

The ends of the rails sit on the floor and are bolted to the wall studs on 16" centers. With 1" plywood shelves I even store engine crankshafts on mine.
You might have to check with a commercial hardware supplier to find them.
 
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Brad54

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Well, I'll throw in my two cents too.
For lighter-weight stuff, you can go with lighter shelving type.
For up high, just a foot and a half or so from the ceiling, I like to use those wire closet shelf systems from the big box stores. They're the white ones.
If you space the brackets every foot, and really anchor them into the wall, the load will be distributed pretty well. And like you said, you won't be storing cylinder heads or other really heavy things up there.
Besides being readily available, fairly innexpensive and really easy to put up, the other BIG benefit I like them for is that they let the light through. Typically, with shelves on the wall, you're always going to have a shadowed area. Solid shelves make a garage seem darker. The wire shelves let light through, which eliminates the dark areas on the wall.
That may be a little thing to most people, but you'd be surprised. It also discourages spiders from building webs, which means you won't have as many cob webs either. Plus, they don't catch dust like regular shelves, so your stuff stays a little cleaner (you aren't pulling stuff off the shelves through a layer of dust).

I stacked A LOT of stuff on those shelves, including '40 Ford backing plates, air cleaner assemblies, exhaust manifolds, spray cans of paint, a radio, boxes of misc. parts, a couple aluminum intakes, and that's just what I can remember off the top of my head.

The key is to be very generous with the number of supports. Mine was on a concrete wall, and I used the self-tapping Tap-Cons every foot. Lots of drilling, but it worked out really well.

-Brad
 

indyjps

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run the shelves all the way to the ceiling and tie into the joists, dont attach directly to joists but span a 2x6 across several joists to spread the load and attach to those, patch up the dry wall, 2x4 corners and middle depending on how wide they are. build the frame tied into the wall studs, bottom beam of rafter and add adjustable shelf settings. load 'em up.
 

AndrewM

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(looks at picture on computer screen)

(looks up on wall - hey, that looks familiar)

I use those triangulars in my home office. I have paperwork boxes on the shelf up there. They hold plenty of weight. I have 3 holding a 6 foot shelf, with probably 60 lbs of papers on it. They... work.

I think I got 'em at Lowes, along with the little caps for the screws (the 'install kits' were right there next to them).
 

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cc_rider

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I have a particular issue with any shelf deeper than about 12". Why? Unless everything you put up there is nearly as deep as the shelf itself, once it falls behind that first row of stuff, you might as well throw it away. I've bought extra cases of oil, filters, antifreeze, spraypaint, etc. all because I couldn't SEE the stuff I already had. My solution so far has been to make shallow (8" max) deep 'tray' shelves and cover the walls with several rows of them. Since they don't stick out very far (most are under 6" deep) they can be placed nearly anywhere.

Here's a lousy pic but you can sort of get the idea. That's 'Josie' in the garage. I'll take better ones soon so you can see what I did.

c.
 

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Cody 82 zxt

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cc_rider said:
I have a particular issue with any shelf deeper than about 12". Why? Unless everything you put up there is nearly as deep as the shelf itself, once it falls behind that first row of stuff, you might as well throw it away. I've bought extra cases of oil, filters, antifreeze, spraypaint, etc. all because I couldn't SEE the stuff I already had. My solution so far has been to make shallow (8" max) deep 'tray' shelves and cover the walls with several rows of them. Since they don't stick out very far (most are under 6" deep) they can be placed nearly anywhere.
c.


Here's a good idea.

This kind of thing happens all the time at work. I tell someone to go get me a can of "this" and they come back and tell me they can't find it. I go all really look and it's right where I told them it would be but, behind something. I've gone to adding more shelves and just having things one row deep unless it is a multiple of the same item.
 
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the intimidator

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I use a heavy duty version of those adjustable shelves. They have a full metal shelve instead of just the brackets and a piece of plywood they are plenty strong I have sat on one and I stack lot's of stuff on them they are the same unit's that wallmart have :) I'll post a pic of them later on today once I make my way into the dungeon I really need to fix my light's :(
 

RAYJAY

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i used slat board and there shelf supports

GARAGE%20FLOOR%20REDONE%20027.jpg


GARAGE%20FLOOR%20REDONE%20020.jpg



GARAGE%20FLOOR%20REDONE%20021.jpg


here i used the white shelf steel brackets with 2x10 painted them and routed the edges round

GARAGE%20FLOOR%20REDONE%20024.jpg
 
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SuperKid

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RAYJAY said:
sorry about the double post ? we can't delete a post in here ...??????

Click edit, and at the bottom of the message box will be 4 buttons. Click the delete button. A prompt will show up below were you just clicked. You can choose "do not delete this message" or "delete this message." Choose the latter. It'll also ask you for a reason. Type in a reason, then click the "delete this message" button.
 

RAYJAY

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SuperKid said:
Click edit, and at the bottom of the message box will be 4 buttons. Click the delete button. A prompt will show up below were you just clicked. You can choose "do not delete this message" or "delete this message." Choose the latter. It'll also ask you for a reason. Type in a reason, then click the "delete this message" button.

thank you it would of bit me if it could lol

Jeff
 

cc_rider

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Cody 82 zxt said:
Here's a good idea.

This kind of thing happens all the time at work. I tell someone to go get me a can of "this" and they come back and tell me they can't find it. I go all really look and it's right where I told them it would be but, behind something. I've gone to adding more shelves and just having things one row deep unless it is a multiple of the same item.

Oh man, you have no idea. My girlfriend is the WORST about such things. But I know better than to ask her to find anything in my garage; the pic doesn't show the extent of the chaos. But I am convinced 'one item deep' shelves is THE way to go. Spraypaint is the worst offender; at least with motor oil you usually have a bunch of the same stuff, so stacking it deep is okay.

The 'trays' on the wall are made from scrap veneered plywood cut into strips. The widths vary; one strip is usually about 6" wide, the other maybe 4", but some are little more than a shelf with a lip. Two short pieces make up the depth of the tray. Here's the trick: take all your long skinny 3/4" thick scraps, and cut a 3/8" deep groove along one edge; that groove is going to capture your shelf bottom. I had some 40" wide perforated metal sheet laying around; perfect for shelves. The perf allows dust to fall through, rather than build up. I've seen 10-20-plus years of dust/dirt/grime buildup before; it ain't pretty. Cut the front (narrower) strips 3/4" longer than the bottoms are going to be; in my case, 40-3/4". Cut the wider strips 1-1/2" shorter than the other strips. Cut the side pieces to the width you want; use the drops from cutting the long strips. Assemble the back and both sides, slip the bottom in, then attach the front. I used drywall screws and wood glue since I'm a 'belt and suspenders, plus another belt in case the first one breaks' kind of nerd. Pre-drill the backs for 16" centers (or whatever) and install with long drywall screws.

I promise to post pics as soon as I find the girlfriend's camera; she dropped mine 'I didn't drop it, the dog hit my hand!' so I have to use hers.

Happy DIY'ing!

c.
 
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bmwpower

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Been a little while, but I finally finished the shelves I set out to build. I ended up using 9 of those metal brackets. Shelves are 16" deep, made from MDF with pine front lip.

I didn't mind making the shelves deeper since I could fit more per linear foot. Most of this **** I don't use on a daily basis, so I wasn't concerned with it being easy to reach everything.
 

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MikeN

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Don't know if it may become an issue for you... but I had similar shelves up around my home garage.

Now, I'm sick of seeing the clutter, and am probably going to either enclose them with flip up cabinet doors, or just build new cabinets to hold everything.

Guess it's ever changing :)
 

cc_rider

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Yeah, I have problems with clutter too. One of my solutions so far has been to make drawers in a simple frame, like a cabinet without a face. Drawers can hold a lot in a small space and hide it away. It's important to keep them organized though, or else they all turn into 'miscellaneous' and you can't find anything. I have one full of lock hardware, another with sandpaper and such, another with electrical cords in need of repair, etc. And I LABEL the ones that are long-term, like the sandpaper. Labeling makes it a little easier for someone else to find something. Everyone's tried to explain to their 'helper' where something is while they're balanced precariously on a ladder; it just doesn't work.

c.
 

Dave Carney

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bmwpower said:
Wow, 2002. I didn't even realize. Someday I will have one...

Back to shelves....That sounds like a good alternative to building wood brackets. Probably much stronger too.

I also found these brackets. They're supposed to be pretty strong.

http://www.johnsterling.com/maxbrackets.htm

Nothing wrong with overthinking things. I just spent ~ 3 hours (literally) staring at my garage walls wondering what I'm going to do.

That's a great bracket. I have those in my attached garage, very strong, very well made.
 

Gregdoo

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I used 5 or 6 of these upright rails http://www.johnsterling.com/FMshelfbrackets1.htm

and the 10 " double brackets to hold lumber. They are very strong (150 lbs per bracket) so 6 rails with these brackets can hold 900 lbs per shelf...They are also economical and galvanized so rust shouldn't be an issue.

Home Depot carries them. I attached the rails to my concrete wall with Tapcons. I have 5 shelves, and it is holding a huge amount of lumber that I had been tripping over. It gets it off the ground and is only a foot deep. Very happy with them. Seems to be a stronger and cheaper alternative to similar products from Rubbermaid and others. Home Depot doesn't have them in a flashy display, so you might easily walk by them if you don't know what you are looking for.

The other thing I like about the shorter brackets, is that they don't have the triangle brace (long brackets do) so that I can hold more stacked lumber without the brace interfering with the stack and reducing my available storage space. They make great shelves too.
 

HighOctane

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Well there is also the route of building a Box Shelf that you can secure to the wall as well. Good Luck:thumbup:
 
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