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Scored a bunch of 4" T&G cedar

nova65ss

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One of the guys that works at a DC I buy my doors from gets alot of this stuff for free! He sold me enough to finish the upstairs of my garage for 200 bucks, about 1000 S.F. worth. Looks like I've got a fall project. I've only worked with T&G once before and back then I was just a teenage helper and could've given a darn about what was going on. Any advice someone can give would be great. I'm looking to do the walls and the ceiling. Are you supposed to use stainless nails, and do you think a brad nailer would be strong enough to shoot through it? Thanks,

Jimmy
 
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PAToyota

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What wood? Regular steel would be fine for most things, but some exotics would require the stainless.

[edit]Missed the "cedar" in the title - yes, I'd use stainless for that. [/edit]

You use one of these for putting cleats into T&G so that the fasteners are hidden: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005A1J6/104-4150665-6407929?v=glance&n=228013

But that is going to be difficult on walls and ceilings... I'd consider using Liquid Nails and using the brad nailer to shoot through the corner between the tongue and body of the piece at an angle (similar to what the cleat nailer does) to hold it in place until things dry.

So, what's a "DC" and where do I get a deal like that?!?! :)
 
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nova65ss

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DC= Distribution Center If you were serious:headscrat :) He has plenty of it if your willing to travel.

That's an expensive piece of machinery at 600 bucks wow! I do know we nailed it just under the groove so it was out of sight. I know it will be a tough job but I think it will look better than sheetrock and probably cost less too.
 

PAToyota

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Ok, that makes sense - I really was trying to figure out what DC stood for... Brain fart, I guess.

Four hundred miles is a way to travel, but I might actually think about it at those prices!
 

Chaz

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Nail diagonally through the tongue. a brad nailer will work . I'd also glue each piece to the studs. Cedar has a horrible and well deserved reputation for shrinking after installation (yeah, I know he said it was dry) so be sure to get the tongues ALL the way into the groove or you will be sorry. Expect it to shrink away from corners and moldings...
 
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Jay H 237

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I'd suggest also storing the wood in the upstairs of your garage before installing it. This will let it get accoustomed to the space where it will be installed. Since you won't be installing it for a few months, that will be more than enough time.
 
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nova65ss

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So it's actually 6" T & G, one wall is finished and I'm pleased with it so far. Hasn't been too difficult and I'm really just getting started still alot left to do. I had to buy a finish nailer went with a Hitachi straight and using a 2 1/2 inch nail. It's not perfect but it will do the job and like doing this much much better than sheetrock.


Jimmy
 

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sca037

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Metro Detroit Area- MI
Sounds like the same stuff we finished the inside of our sauna in :thumbup:
We used a Senco SFN30 nailer and stainless steel angled finish nails, and it came out great (over 3 years later and no issues at all).
One note of caution, cedar can be a powerful sensitizing agent so try not to handle it too much with bare hands, and do not breath the dust while cutting the boards!

Brian
 

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