Owens Corning Garage Door Insulation Kit

boston813 · Jan 20, 2010

I did a search for garage door insulation and it seems that most people either buy an insulated door (not in the budget right now) or use a hard foam sheeting. When I was at HD I saw the pink fiberglass kits and they seem to look fine and seem easy to install. Is there any reason that more people here haven't used it? Did I miss something?

mooman · Jan 20, 2010

cost. just buy sheets and dyi

Fudge0514 · Jan 21, 2010

The kit you are referring to costs just shy of $70. That will give you enough to do a single car garage door. I bought 4 sheets of R5 foam for just shy of $50, which was more than enough to do a two car garage door. Who knows, the Owens Corning kit may give you better insulation, but even then the sides of the door are still going to be drafty. I'm happy with my foam boards in my door.

Oh, if you have a two car garage door and you plan on using foam boards I can give you a few good tips, if you want. I just did mine a few weekends ago.

pdl2mtl90 · Jan 22, 2010

Fudge0514 said:
Oh, if you have a two car garage door and you plan on using foam boards I can give you a few good tips, if you want. I just did mine a few weekends ago.

Go ahead and either post them or PM them to me. I will be doing both doors on my 3 car garage in the next week or two.

drsifu · Jan 22, 2010

can you just post or PM me as well...thinking about doing my two door as well.

does it simply involve cutting it to size and fitting them in?

rickairmedic · Jan 22, 2010

I did my garage door with Ductwrap

. I had an almost full roll of it laying around left over from an install. I figured what the heck it is R4.9 installed and it is pretty much FREE

. The ductwrap comes in 100' X 4' rolls so I simply cut a pile of 21" pieces and slipped them into the door has made one heck of a differance in my garage . The rolls cost me right at $100.00 wholesale and I used maybe 1/2 a roll for a 16X8 door so one roll would do 2 16X8 doors easy. One other plus is the silver ( aluminum like backing ) reflects alot of light as well.

Rick

70Chevy · Jan 22, 2010

Fudge0514 said:
Oh, if you have a two car garage door and you plan on using foam boards I can give you a few good tips, if you want. I just did mine a few weekends ago.

Please - post it up.

boston813 · Jan 22, 2010

From the number of people that want to know, it may be best to post it up for all of us

holland_patrick · Jan 22, 2010

Please post up

bazzateer · Jan 22, 2010

Wot they ^^^ said! Get it up!

Fudge0514 · Jan 22, 2010

Got some impatient users on here! :willy_nil

Okay, here's what I did. First thing is measure the garage. The metal supports on the inside can hold the panels in. There are 4 columns, 4 rows each. The outer columms each measured 43" W x 20.5" H x 2" D. The middle columns each measured 46.5" W x 20.5" H x 2" D (see pic "gar1.jpg"). But the depth wasn't a full 2" (I didn't realize this until I was putting the foam in). You lose about 1/2" due to the pattern on the door and how it indents inward. (Shown in pic "gar4.jpg")

I originally planned on doubling up the foam but due to this oversight, it is only single layered. I purchased 7 panels of R5 from Home Depot, which were $12.** for each 4' x 8' x 1" piece. I ended up only needing 4 pieces since I wasn't able to double up. If you want to buy some 3/4" foam and double up, that might work.

Then I drafted up how I would cut each piece of foam. (Shown on garmeas.jpg) You might do it different, but I was able to use up the leftover pieces to do two garage panels. I used box cutters to cut the foam, but it doesn't quite cut easily in one direction, while it cuts nicely in the other. It wasn't a clean cut all the way through so I would break the foam to finish the cut. I did end up snapping a board and I wasn't able to use part of one of them. Luckily I had enough scrap to make do.

So, since there is 20.5" in height, if the foam is 20.5" its a very tight fit. So each panel would then be cut into two (see pic "gar2.jpg" then "gar3.jpg" for the installed fit). By doing this you'll get the foam in, and the two halves actually hold perfectly. Infact, 20.5" is almost just a tad too tall, I'd knock off about .25" and you'll be set.

Fudge0514 · Jan 22, 2010

Oops, forgot one attachment.

sixball · Jan 23, 2010

I just did a 12 foot door with 3 sheets of 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch (can't remember) foil faced insulation. The sheets are 4 x 8, and I have some leftover pieces I can jam somewhere else I guess.

Anyway, here is what I did:

I measured the panels on the door and allowed alittle extra for height and length to fit into the chanels. The foil faced sheets don't flex too much, so I then adjusted the way I cut each sheet and kept the heighth the same, but subtracted about 4 inches on the length. This allowed me to put the insulation sheet in, then with my hand push the sheet sideways into one chanel, and the screws that are already going through each panel, bite into the insualton and hold it in place. Then I put a filler piece in and wedge it in the same way, everything holds just fine. I repeated for each panel.

Then I bought a roll of the reflective insulation tape and taped all the joints and all around the edges of the chanel just to make sure everything holds in place and there are no air gaps. One roll did the job with allitle left over.

I like the end result because the door looks real good with the reflective finish and it adds alot more light than I thought would be possible. I have about 60 bucks into it, and it make a noticeable difference in the heat in the garage

Vincet · Feb 5, 2010

Guys, thanks for your instructions and tips.

I have question, after I do this my wife will tell me this pink foam insulation does not look good. Or she will say I do not like the bright foil - Can you paint this ????

Chetter · Feb 5, 2010

I did the same thing back in 96 when I built my garage, but instead used what panels that are made of 1" thick precut styrofoam that was packaged 6pcs to a pack. They were designed for use between wall studs when doing a block wall such as in a basement. I took Liquid nails and glued the panels in place because over time they will loosen up some and then can fall out. What I used is bright white and reflects light back nicely as well as keeping the heat in the garage. The size of the panels left me with little cutting to fit and I had to do a 16x8 and 9x8 doors. A very worth while project if you are wanting to help keep heat in. You can see it in the pic of my car in my sig here.

Moldy Oldy · Feb 24, 2010

Just finished the larger door of a three car garage. Owen Kit works slick ..but they sent me to many adhesive strips and not enough attach clips for the second door. Called customer service and they will get them right out..garage noticeably quieter from street noise and holds temp better. Minimum measuring and cutting and easy install. Well worth the $70 per door in time and energy saved. HD ships for free if order is over $250.

Garyl53 · Feb 24, 2010

I used the "Insulfoam" kit from Lowes. It has a vinyl white inside surface and cuts slots in the back of the foam so it bends easy to fit into the door panels. It is $48 for a single door and X2 for a double door. No tape required and it has held up well over the last 3 months or so. The Owen kit bothered me a bit since the fiberglass can get wet and takes a while to dry. I get a lot of water through the horizontal seams between door panels when I open and close the door. I didn't want to take the chance on wet fiberglass.
G

xiondavis · Feb 25, 2010

The foam is flammible and should be covered per code right? That would sway me toward the owens fiberglass kit. I wouldn't want a welding spark catch my garage door on fire!

sixball · Feb 25, 2010

xiondavis said:
The foam is flammible and should be covered per code right? That would sway me toward the owens fiberglass kit. I wouldn't want a welding spark catch my garage door on fire!

If you really think about it, just about everything in a garage is flamable

Garyl53 · Feb 25, 2010

Good point about it being flammable. I will have to check into a requirement for a covering. I hope it doesn't need one. Maybe all it will need is some foil covering, I hope.
G

PassnThru · Feb 25, 2010

The foam should be covered - I don't think it is so much the flammable part as the fumes it will put out when it gets hot or burns. I used a foil insulation over mine - just tucked it into the edges and ran some foil tape on the vertical edges.
You can see part of it here:
View media item 3358

cyamaha2007 · Feb 25, 2010

I just did mine. I ran a small bead of foam glue on the center two rows. The others i cut tight slipped in and slid it back 50%. that way they were held in in on 3 sides no glue needed.

It helped but mainly with sound. I cut it with with a circular saw it worked the best to get through the foil. I would do it again and am going to on my other garage.

NitroShark · Mar 28, 2010

I used the Owens kit and it worked out nice..

The bright white covering it has helps out with lighting a lot!

redsky49 · Mar 28, 2010

For those who have insulated their doors, was it necessary to adjust the springs afterward to compensate for the additional weight?

sixball · Mar 30, 2010

The guy that installed my door adjusted mine for use with the door opener. When lifting it by hand it didn't seem alot different though. I had to get a new gear for my opener, so when he installed the door, I didn't hook the opener up. Afew months later after I insulated it, he stopped by with the gear, and made the adjustments

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