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Parts washer - what to use?

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mhulbrock

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Tuxedo, NY
I just picked up a basic parts washer. After some searching around I see two main methods of filling it up, water or solvent based. I would really like to fill it with something non-flammable, and with low odor with the lid closed.
Do you think some simple green would do the job well enough?
What do you use in yours?
-Mark
 
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jjarrell4

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I use the solvent at my Tractor and supply, it's really rough on the hands if you don't wear gloves and will eat the finish off concrete floors, so be weary of spilling it on the ground.
 
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jjarrell4

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But it depends on what you will be washing, water is obviously not very powerful against greasy parts, personally I haven't used SG in a washer so I cannot comment
 
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robin1731

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Decatur, Indiana
I also use the Tractor Supply stuff. It is hard on your hands like jjarell4 says. You could also use mineral spirits. Water w/simple green is ok if you don't have real greasy parts. Some people don't like the smell that much. It is enviromentaly more friendly than other "real" solvents. You can just pour it out in the driveway when you want to change it.
 
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Brad54

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Odorless mineral spirits.
I had some water-based stuff, and it sucked all the way around. It evaporated out (even with the lid closed), and heavily corroded the underside of my lid, the hinge, and the fusible link that melts quick and drops the lid if something catches fire. It also discolored the paint inside the tub, and left a sludge in the bottom that I had to scrape out. Part of the sludge was oil and grease from parts I'd cleaned, so I accept that, but a lot of it was stuff that settled out of the cleaner as the water evaporated out of it.

The stuff also didn't cut grease and oil all that well.

I'm VERY happy with the odorless mineral spirits, on all counts. It's a little spendy, but worth it.

Brad
 
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z28snksknr

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what2do said:
Great question!
Click to expand...

A professor at college use to define a "Great Question" as "One he didn't know the answer to".

Someone would ask a question, he would shout out excitedly "GREAT QUESTION!!" then continue his lecture. This just reminded me of that since I like to do the same once in a while.
 
F

fatfillup

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Finksburg, Md
Water based degreasers are most effective in a heated solution. I have seen basic hand scrub parts cleaners with heating elements but I don't think they ever caught on. Without heat, I'd go solvent. I use the Tractor Supply product, $40 per 5 gal. I think.

It is a little rough on the hands but most anything will be. Don't know what's in it. Have heard odorless mineral spirits is good also.

Also as stated earlier, any water based product will cause rust if it doesn't have a rust inhibitor built in. The products for the automatic hot water washers have that inhibitor, Simple Green probably does not. Also SG may foam too much.
 
A

Aberdale

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Ohio
I have a pneumatic powered parts washer.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002FV6NB2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The best part about the washer is the valves can be closed off to eliminate odors and evaporation, and it doesn't have an electric motor, eliminating any spark potential. I've used water based (as recommended by the manufacturer), but found it to be a bit pricey and not very effective. I have since switched to kerosene which works fine in this washer.

Dale
 
R

regguy1

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On Mount Olympus with Zeus
mhulbrock said:
I just picked up a basic parts washer. After some searching around I see two main methods of filling it up, water or solvent based. I would really like to fill it with something non-flammable, and with low odor with the lid closed.
Do you think some simple green would do the job well enough?
What do you use in yours?
-Mark
Click to expand...

How about this one.....
 

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fatfillup

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regguy1 said:
How about this one.....
Click to expand...

That is an unique design. I've never seen a roll out turntable like that before.

For those who have never seen an automatic parts washer, they are the most cost effective way to clean parts. They are like a dish washer for your greasey parts. You put them in, close the door, come back 10 to 20 minutes later and your parts are clean. The machines use a water based soap that is heated to about 170 degrees and they are blasted from top, bottom and side with about 30 to 50 GPM at 150 psi while they rotate on the turntable at 5 rpm or so. Very cool!!!!!!!!!!
 
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jteck75

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Benton Ky.
While it is certainly not non-flammble or odorless,the best stuff I've ever used was naptha. I don't care how greasy/nasty/filthy a part was,after a few minutes in there,it would be as clean as it was when it was new. But it is some pretty nasty stuff.
 
M

Moose-LandTran

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The Brink of Insanity (England)
jteck75 said:
While it is certainly not non-flammble or odorless,the best stuff I've ever used was naptha. I don't care how greasy/nasty/filthy a part was,after a few minutes in there,it would be as clean as it was when it was new. But it is some pretty nasty stuff.
Click to expand...

That's what brake cleaner is. Hydrogen-treated naptha. I don't know what carb cleaner is made of, but that stuff blows brake cleaner out the water.
 
5

54FordPanel

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Fort 54, Littleton, Co
On the same subject, has anyone ever heard or seen solvent go bad? I refilled my parts washer with solvent from jugs that I saved for 4 years. (I didn't use it for 4 years)

But it smells now just like varnishy gas that has gone bad.

Does that happen? Or did I possibly pour some old bad gas into my parts washer?
 
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regguy1

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fatfillup said:
That is an unique design. I've never seen a roll out turntable like that before.

For those who have never seen an automatic parts washer, they are the most cost effective way to clean parts. They are like a dish washer for your greasey parts. You put them in, close the door, come back 10 to 20 minutes later and your parts are clean. The machines use a water based soap that is heated to about 170 degrees and they are blasted from top, bottom and side with about 30 to 50 GPM at 150 psi while they rotate on the turntable at 5 rpm or so. Very cool!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

The parts tray /tree stay stationary. The spray arms in cabinet rotate
has upper and lower spray arms. It's a J-Mar Powerjet 1440. bought it in 1979 best money I ever spent. This one is gas heated, very economical to operate. Most new ones are electric heat
 
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F

fatfillup

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regguy1 said:
The parts tray /tree stay stationary. The spray arms in cabinet rotate
has upper and lower spray arms. It's a J-Mar Powerjet 1440. bought it in 1979 best money I ever spent. This one is gas heated, very economical to operate. Most new ones are electric heat
Click to expand...

That has got to be one of the earliest parts washers I've ever seen. I was introduced to them in 1985 or so.

You are correct, most are heated electrically but you can still get gas fired machines but its a pricey upgrade.

As far as best money spent, I'd say you are right, especially after 30 years!! Have you had many parts wear out? I have always been leary of the machines with rotating arms but yours has certainly held up.

Thanks for the pics and info. Guys, if you have lots of parts to clean, you can[t beat an automatic washer. They pay for themselves quickly and don't have alot of maintainence.
 
V

Vinko

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Los Angeles
regguy1 said:
The parts tray /tree stay stationary. The spray arms in cabinet rotate
has upper and lower spray arms. It's a J-Mar Powerjet 1440. bought it in 1979 best money I ever spent. This one is gas heated, very economical to operate. Most new ones are electric heat
Click to expand...


I'd love something like that. I keep looking on CL and Ebay.
 
S

s_morrison57

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Mar 16, 2009
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Location
Vancouver BC
I was too cheap to buy something non flamable so I decided on dish soap, big mistake, as soon as it hits the pump it foams and then the pump cavitates and won't **** water. it was a mess to clean up
 
R

regguy1

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Dec 15, 2009
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On Mount Olympus with Zeus
fatfillup said:
That has got to be one of the earliest parts washers I've ever seen. I was introduced to them in 1985 or so.

You are correct, most are heated electrically but you can still get gas fired machines but its a pricey upgrade.

As far as best money spent, I'd say you are right, especially after 30 years!! Have you had many parts wear out? I have always been leary of the machines with rotating arms but yours has certainly held up.

Thanks for the pics and info. Guys, if you have lots of parts to clean, you can[t beat an automatic washer. They pay for themselves quickly and don't have alot of maintainence.
Click to expand...

I had to replace the upper arm bearings once, I grease them before every run.
The motor failed in about 1995, cost 500.00 5 HP 220V SP. Replaced gas valve
once. Had to change the pump seal over to an automotive style (from a early chrysler transfer shaft) and have never had a leak since (15 yrs). I paid 3350.00 for the machine new in 1979, it was a good deal at the time. To give you an idea of what a dollar would buy back then...I bought a brand new 1978 El Camino fancy model for 5685.00 so it cost about
60% of the price of a new car.
 
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