Parts washer, are they safe enough in the garage?

Com_VC · Apr 5, 2010

Hi,

I've had a parts washer for a few years now, just never got around to setting it up. It's a 40 gallon like this one

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BRAND-NEW-40...AU_Tool_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5191ab707d

Just wondering if there is anything safety related that I should be worried about, I do a bit of welding and grinding every now and then so there will be a few sparks getting around.

When I fill it up with the solvent which I haven't decided on yet (need to find out which one works best) I plan to leave it in there for a long time.

Thanks

Stephenw · Apr 5, 2010

If you are using a combustible solvent like mineral spirits, there is a small risk.

Mineral spirits, stoddard solvent, and similar solvents are considered combustible, not flammable. The standard variety has a flash point around 100 degrees Fahrenheit. The low odor variety has a flash point of about 110. If the temperature of the solvent reaches the flash point, fumes can be produced that will ignite if exposed to an ignition source such as a spark from a grinder.

Most industrial shops are using combustible solvents in their parts washers.

Keep the lid closed when not in use to reduce the risk. Do not disable the fusible link in the lid. Do not modify your parts washer.

hetkind · Apr 5, 2010

you want the highest flashpoint solvent that will do what you want it to do...and it terms of modifying it, I have seen a very good study on plumbing a standard large Ford style oil filter into the supply to the brush or cleaning tool to keep the fluid cleaner for longer, at minimal cost.

I would like to get a heated wash tank that uses simple green.

Howard

Jbullfrog · Apr 5, 2010

I have had a 20 gallon under the LB White in the shop at dad's for 4 years now. I have no problems with the pilot 8' above it.

billymade · Apr 5, 2010

I'm wondering about some of the newer solvent/cleaning solutions they are being used, mandated in places like California with their environmental restrictions. I have a feeling the new biodegradable "aqueous" systems aren't exactly cheap; the flammability issue be solved.... probably doesn't smell as bad either! Anyone use these systems?

http://www.safety-kleen.com/products/CleaningEquipment/Pages/Aqueous.aspx

I wonder if it is possible to use the aqueous solvents in a standard solvent tank? That would seem to be a great solution; as long as the new solvents are cost effective.

kbs2244 · Apr 5, 2010

Where else would you put it?
Even in the days of kerosene or diesel as fluid, they were in a corner of the garage,

BlindViper · Apr 5, 2010

I use the crown psc 1000 fluid its 40$/5gal and its flash is 143F. Works find in the garage I dont even notice the smell either.

nate379 · Apr 5, 2010

Sparks aren't going to get that off, least I have never heard of that. Have done plenty of grinder and welding only to realize I was shooting the sparks right into the tank.

cwstevens92 · Apr 5, 2010

We use a 5g bucket of diesel fuel

Scout Driver · Apr 5, 2010

The farm shop has had a the same parts washer in it for decades. Never a problem, even with a lot of welding, grinding etc. going on. Just use a low-volatility cleaning solution and keep the lid closed. :thumbup:

Scott

dreaminbimmers · Apr 5, 2010

I don't know about you but I can't stand the smell of dirty solvent. Minimizing exposure with some simple ventilation might be something to look in to. Especially if you don't change solvent very often but spend a significant time standing over the tank. An overhead bathroom type fan, if placed close enough, can make a significant difference.

Charles (in GA) · Apr 5, 2010

Many cleaning solvents are advertised as having flash points just above 140F as that is a cut off point for certain government regulations (OSHA I think). I use Greymills Super Agitene 141 which has a 141F flash point and Lanolin to help with the hands. If you are painting parts, you have to wash with soap and water to remove the lanolin, but thats no biggie. Excellent solvent.

Be sure that the lid has a safety fuse on it that closes the lid in case of a fire. I think my fuse melts at about 170F.

Charles

Busted_Knuckles · Apr 5, 2010

Ive got aqueous fluid, I think it is graymills, in my parts washer, several downs sides, doesn't work well when cold (ok, doesnt work at all..@ 50 degrees), and is rusting my cleaner, which is all steel. Don't know who made it (the washer), but I bought it from Zep, but I see others selling it, I dropped $1200 on it, so I'm bummed about the rusting, I might go back to the stoddard solvent. I tried the aqueous for health preservation purposes. It has no odor, unless you stick you face almost into it. Even at 80 degrees it does not work as well. I should also mention I have a very hot water pressure washer, that I hit most parts with before they make it in the parts washer, so its performance isn't really a big deal for me. Just my 2-cents.

wellstig1 · Apr 5, 2010

billymade said:
I'm wondering about some of the newer solvent/cleaning solutions they are being used, mandated in places like California with their environmental restrictions. I have a feeling the new biodegradable "aqueous" systems aren't exactly cheap; the flammability issue be solved.... probably doesn't smell as bad either! Anyone use these systems?

http://www.safety-kleen.com/products/CleaningEquipment/Pages/Aqueous.aspx

I wonder if it is possible to use the aqueous solvents in a standard solvent tank? That would seem to be a great solution; as long as the new solvents are cost effective.

We have this one at work and its work really well, the pump having a heater seems to help out. The only problem with this solvent is that it evaporates quickly if you don't keep the lid closed. Oh, and the smell is very mild.

http://s-kstore.com/index.php/sink-parts-washer-aqueous-model-91.html

Com_VC · Apr 6, 2010

Well after work today I set it up in the garage, now just need to buy a solvent so I can use it. What works best?

Also i'm thinking of mounting some casters on it so I can move it around if need be as when it's full it's going to be pretty heavy.

scooterseats · Apr 6, 2010

I have used straight kerosene for over 45 years and have never had any problems with it. Yes there is some odor but I do not mind this and it actually soothes nicks and cuts unlike Safety Kleen or some other commercial solvents.

mikeceli · Apr 6, 2010

HF unit. Mineral spirts, 13 years , no problem. Just ust common sense.

Com_VC · Apr 7, 2010

Does kerosene work better than diesel?

bad daddy · Apr 7, 2010

Com_VC said:
Does kerosene work better than diesel?

What about using Bio-Diesel?
Low odour, good cleaner, easy on your hands...

Captain · Apr 7, 2010

I have kerosene in mine without any problems.
Pretty cheap if you buy a 20l drum from the hardware.
We used to use diesel on the farm, but it is harder to dry out of the nooks and crannies.
Both fluids are a bit oily, so require a bit of extra effort to dry off the parts, but in the long run I find then to be safer.

Skin · Apr 7, 2010

this is what i use

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=825-8600&PMPXNO=949421&PARTPG=INSRHI

Flash point is just 108* [similar to kerosene] but i've never had a problem with it. Just do the obvious and keep the lid closed when you arent using it. Doesnt really smell unless you stick your face in the washer. Will strip the paint off the washer over time but wont rust it. Obvious downside is its expensive. Stuff use to be $50 just 3 years ago. If its just for personal use though it will last quite awhile.

They sell this more health/earth friendly stuff as well

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=325-6010

z28snksknr · Apr 7, 2010

bad daddy said:
What about using Bio-Diesel?
Low odour, good cleaner, easy on your hands...

Biodiesel would be an excellent cleaner, although I know it's hard on most soft parts (gaskets, rubbers, silicones, etc.)

Also (from National Biodiesel Board):
"Brass, bronze, copper, lead, tin, and zinc may accelerate the oxidation process of biodiesel creating fuel insolubles or gels and salts. Lead solders and zinc linings should be avoided, as should copper pipes, brass regulators, and copper fittings."

Although all that means is that you'll have to replace it more.

scooterseats · Apr 7, 2010

Kerosene is actually a little dryer than Diesel and will usually dry to a paintable surface if left in the sun. Of course,after a lot of use on dirty parts it will get oilier as time passes. I personally feel that Kerosene has less odor than diesel also.

Parts washer, are they safe enough in the garage?

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