What epoxy did you use that DID NOT have hot tire pick up?

tommya · Nov 8, 2006

I'd love to do epoxy but want to do it right. It looks like "hot tire" damage is the enemy of epoxy.

Is there something you put between your tires and epoxy floor for a car that sits for months at a time?

Brand?
Age of Floor?
Applied to concrete that was in what condition?

GearHead_1 · Nov 8, 2006

UCoatIt on a new floor and no lift in over a year.

mike944 · Nov 8, 2006

I used armorseal 1000, for a year. No hot tire pickup. But, i hear that that particular epoxy is getting hard to get because of environmental issues.

gb70 · Nov 8, 2006

Just as important as the product(s) used is the prep. After cleaning the floors acid needs to be used to open up the pours of the cement so that the product(s) wil adhere or bite into the cement. I have seen where degreaser could not get all of the stains from oils out only to have the epoxy come up later. Best solution is to grind the oil stains out. What ever you choose, learn as much as there is to know about the procedures that need to be done correctly before you lay down any product. Prep is really the key IMO.

index · Nov 8, 2006

mike944 said:
I used armorseal 1000, for a year. No hot tire pickup. But, i hear that that particular epoxy is getting hard to get because of environmental issues.

mike, how much did it cost for total for the armorseal?
is it a 2-part epoxy?

ChucksCrib · Nov 8, 2006

mike944 said:
I used armorseal 1000, for a year. No hot tire pickup. But, i hear that that particular epoxy is getting hard to get because of environmental issues.

I had a nice pictoral I posted some time back. If you do a search for my screen name and armour seal. I'm sure you'll find it. I believe I posted what I paid for the kits as well.

Chuck

bmwpower · Nov 8, 2006

+1 for Armorseal 1000 (coated in Dec 05)

tommya · Nov 8, 2006

gb70 said:
Just as important as the product(s) used is the prep. After cleaning the floors acid needs to be used to open up the pours of the cement so that the product(s) wil adhere or bite into the cement. I have seen where degreaser could not get all of the stains from oils out only to have the epoxy come up later. Best solution is to grind the oil stains out. What ever you choose, learn as much as there is to know about the procedures that need to be done correctly before you lay down any product. Prep is really the key IMO.

I'll be going over a 6-month old garage floor that has no stains and never had a car on it. What does the acid wash do to the blacktop as it's washed out of the garage? I found Armorseal 1000 on the SW website but do they have retail stores?

Bisqwik · Nov 8, 2006

I used PPG Industrial
5 + years
was on new that was washed with acid real good.
John

ChucksCrib · Nov 8, 2006

I found it

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1257&highlight=armour+seal

JohnHenrys48 · Nov 8, 2006

gb70 said it.

I truely believe that preparation is the key, including acid etching the surface...this allows the epoxy to form a mechanical bond with the concrete.

I used the Rustoleum water based product :shocking:

. I live in AZ and park a 6000 # vehicle on it and there has been zero evidence of hot tire pickup. Or even tire marks.

I don't think all epoxys are created equal but in my case, the Rustoleum, water based product worked great and I believe it's all due to the preparation I did on the slab.

Good luck,

Jim

bmwpower · Nov 8, 2006

tommya said:
I'll be going over a 6-month old garage floor that has no stains and never had a car on it. What does the acid wash do to the blacktop as it's washed out of the garage? I found Armorseal 1000 on the SW website but do they have retail stores?

Just make sure you wet the blacktop before washing with acid. And flush it well with water after you're done doing the concrete floor.

Sherwin Williams has retail stores. Good luck getting Armorseal in NJ or PA. They're not supposed to sell it for residential use. I've been blocked from getting it from several stores. Luckily I found a friend of the family who is a painter, so he was able to buy it for me. The reason for restricting the product is warranted, as it smells like a mother, is flammable as hell and the fumes will knock you out in no time if you don't take all the necessary precautions such as air circulation and an organic vapor mask.

mike944 · Nov 9, 2006

bmwpower said:
......The reason for restricting the product is warranted, as it smells like a mother, is flammable as hell and the fumes will knock you out in no time if you don't take all the necessary precautions......

I usually find that any product that works really well is usually dangerous as hell, either to people or the environment!!!!! Usually the non-toxic, non-hazardous stuff works like ****.

boiler7904 · Nov 9, 2006

tommya said:
What does the acid wash do to the blacktop as it's washed out of the garage?

I had the same concern when I did my garage over labor day weekend. A couple of things. #1 - You use the acid diluted with water starting with something like 10:1 and mix stronger until you get a mix that fizzes on the concrete surface. #2 - You rinse a few of times with a lot of water each time. By the time the acid solution gets to the asphalt it is has a concentration well below 100:1.

tommya said:
I found Armorseal 1000 on the SW website but do they have retail stores?

They do have retail stores. Here's the link:

SW Store Locator

Even if the Armorseal 1000 is available in your area, the store may not sell it to you unless you are a professional painter or have some other sort of contractor's license. Regulations on solvent based paints and coatings are getting pretty strict - especially in states that have tough air quality laws like CA, NY, MA, and the states that surround them.

I did two coats of Rust Oleum EpoxyShield Pro in Tile Red with one coat of their premium clear coating. The floor has been down for a little over two months and driven on daily for 5 weeks with no hot tire pick up to date.

Good luck.

index · Nov 9, 2006

@Boiler 7904:
Why clear epoxy did you use? Rustoleum's ?

boiler7904 said:
I did two coats of Rust Oleum EpoxyShield Pro in Tile Red with one coat of their premium clear coating. The floor has been down for a little over two months and driven on daily for 5 weeks with no hot tire pick up to date.

Good luck.

boiler7904 · Nov 9, 2006

index said:
@Boiler 7904:
Why clear epoxy did you use? Rustoleum's ?

I used the Rust Oleum Premium Clear Coating over two coats of the EpoxySheild Pro. Their open time estimates are not an exageration. You have to work quickly with it. Open time was an hour for the temperature (about 75) I had when I did mine. Using an 18" roller, it took 45 minutes to do my 2 car garage. You can definitely feel it starting to set up when you get close to it being mixed for an hour.

I spread the flakes over both color coats and mixed the non-slip additive from the clear coat into the top color coat to give it some slip resistance without being overly rough.

I had heard that mixing the non-slip into the clear would leave a fairly rough surface. My floor seems to be a fairly good balance though it does get a little dicey if there is standing water.

Hope this helps.

index · Nov 9, 2006

that's great info...thanks!

What epoxy did you use that DID NOT have hot tire pick up?

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