Sealing Gaps Around/Above Garage Doors

Boyd · Jul 20, 2010

I remember seeing a thread several months back about using nylon brush weatherstripping (see attached pic) to seal around the interior of a garage door but can't find it using the search function. Can anyone link me to that thread, or am I imagining things?

Also, the search didn't reveal much in what I want to do...seal up the miscellaneous gaps around the garage door in preparation for a through the wall a/c unit. If anyone has any ideas or examples to share, I would appreciate it very much.

jklingel · Jul 22, 2010

Gaps: Great Stuff outta work. They have a few kinds, depending on gap size. GL. j

lilredex · Jul 22, 2010

Around here, the weatherstripping is mounted on the outside. Have had very good results with this: Vinyl board and vinyl web. Note that the track is mounted "wedge" shaped in relation to the wall, that way the door and web actually only contact each other when the door approaches the almost closed position. Saves wear and tear on the weatherstripping.

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Boyd · Jul 22, 2010

lilredx - I have that type of weatherstripping on the outside of my doors, but there are still small gaps around the edges and top. The nylon bristle strips will eliminate those gaps and effectively seal the garage doors against any air leakage.

I remember someone on here installing them or rigging up something similar, I just can't find it.

Here is a link to the place I am going to order from...I'm awaiting an estimate for a double garage door and a single garage door.

http://www.memtechbrush.com/brush-seals/sectional-overhead-doors.htm

lilredex · Jul 22, 2010

When the wind she blows, and no snow gets behind the door, you know you have a good seal, and no additional weather stripping is needed. That angled track makes all the difference, as it throws the door down against the weatherstripping tightly during the last foot of travel and makes a firm connection on all sides and top.

Tracks that are mounted parallel to the wall allow the door to bump around in the wind, and leak when the door is closed. And, additional weather stripping is usually needed to attempt to seal them up.

That is really the point I was trying to make with those pictures.

If anyone is renewing their floor, think about sinking a 1 1/4 - 1 1/2" pipe across where the door meets the floor, about three quarters submerged. It gives the door a level section to seat on. Never see this in newer construction, 'cause it takes extra effort to install. Had one on an older garage and it really does help to keep the snow and other stuff at bay.

babzog · Jul 22, 2010

lilredex said:
That angled track makes all the difference, as it throws the door down against the weatherstripping tightly during the last foot of travel and makes a firm connection on all sides and top.

Tracks that are mounted parallel to the wall allow the door to bump around in the wind, and leak when the door is closed. And, additional weather stripping is usually needed to attempt to seal them up.

I gather then, when using the angled track, that the rollers are set at an increasing distance from the door?

lilredex · Jul 22, 2010

babzog said:
I gather then, when using the angled track, that the rollers are set at an increasing distance from the door?

Correct........most new installations will be done that way. Mine is about four years old.

Gary S · Jul 23, 2010

lilredex said:
Around here, the weatherstripping is mounted on the outside.

Same here. I used the cheap vinyl garage door weatherstrip that Menards and Lowes carry. It keeps out all snow even with my north facing garage doors.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_66657-81-03..._0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=weatherstrip$y=0$x=0

lilredex · Jul 24, 2010

Gary S said:
Same here. I used the cheap vinyl garage door weatherstrip that Menards and Lowes carry. It keeps out all snow even with my north facing garage doors.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_66657-81-03..._0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=weatherstrip$y=0$x=0

Thanks for that link........Lowes in Canada appear not to carry that item, but it is on my list for next time across the border.........too good to pass up! Thanks.

smooth72 · Jul 24, 2010

I have the brush version on mine. I had the vinyl before and the brush works allot better because it adjust to shape of the garage tighter. I got mine from
http://www.genuinehotrod.com/default.asp

CrashTestDummy · Jul 26, 2010

smooth72 said:
I have the brush version on mine. I had the vinyl before and the brush works allot better because it adjust to shape of the garage tighter. I got mine from
http://www.genuinehotrod.com/default.asp

What's it called, and what 'catagory' is it under? The home page doesn't make anything obvious. How much did it cost? Thanks.

Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas

Charles (in GA) · Jul 26, 2010

http://www.sealeze.com/

Charles

smooth72 · Jul 26, 2010

I finally found it on ebay. For some reason not showing in their catalog. I have found it for 3 times the price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Genu...QptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools#ht_3128wt_893

Bullitt21 · Jul 28, 2010

For anybody that's using the rubber seals and dead set on using them, a good way to extend there life is to keep them protected from UV rays and cracking with 303 Aerospace(It is an SPF 40 product that I use on the the rubber and vinyl in my clients cars because it's not greasy and gives a matte look like the car rolled off the assemble line. Since your not using it on cars Armor All would suffice to keep the seals in good shape for the life of the garage door. I also noticed if I was blowing the concrete, debris found it's way into the garage, so a threshold was the key to create a tight seal.

jklingel · Jul 28, 2010

Good idea. 303 is great stuff; used in the boating industry, like on hypalon tubes for RHIBs, etc, too. I've used it for many years on mine.

CrashTestDummy · Jul 28, 2010

smooth72 said:
I finally found it on ebay. For some reason not showing in their catalog. I have found it for 3 times the price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Genu...QptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools#ht_3128wt_893

Thanks. The _day_ I posted the above query, my Hotrod Hardware catalog arrived, and I found the product listed in the catalog! Thanks again, though. I have wanted to find a solution to help keep the buggies out of my shop.

Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas

Car54 · Aug 4, 2010

This stuff is really like $5 a foot? I need 56' linear feet of 2" metal x 3" brush. Anyone know any more places to look? I've already emailed Memtech.

fiveoh · Aug 31, 2010

smooth72 said:
I finally found it on ebay. For some reason not showing in their catalog. I have found it for 3 times the price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Genu...QptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools#ht_3128wt_893

Sorry to bring up an old thread. I'm trying to seal the gaps in my garage door and this thread came up in a search.

How does this stuff attach to the door? Does it have some kind of backing or glue or screw on or what?

My door already has a rubber seal at the bottom but I need something for the top/sides and corners at the bottom.

smooth72 · Aug 31, 2010

fiveoh said:
Sorry to bring up an old thread. I'm trying to seal the gaps in my garage door and this thread came up in a search.

How does this stuff attach to the door? Does it have some kind of backing or glue or screw on or what?

My door already has a rubber seal at the bottom but I need something for the top/sides and corners at the bottom.

It does not attach to the door, but the door frame with screws. Installs fast. Make sure it has contact with the door all the way around.

fiveoh · Aug 31, 2010

That actually might be overkill for what I need. My door is pretty well sealed on the outside I just have a few spots that leak a lot of air(see attached pics), mainly at the bottom corners and a gap at the side. Any suggestions for how to fill these in?

smooth72 · Aug 31, 2010

fiveoh said:
That actually might be overkill for what I need. My door is pretty well sealed on the outside I just have a few spots that leak a lot of air(see attached pics), mainly at the bottom corners and a gap at the side. Any suggestions for how to fill these in?

No such thing as over kill, when it comes to insulation. Are you going to heat or cool?

fiveoh · Aug 31, 2010

smooth72 said:
No such thing as over kill, when it comes to insulation. Are you going to heat or cool?

Already have an a/c unit just trying to help it out. I'm just not sure if the gap is big enough for the brush to even fit. It's less then an inch.

smooth72 · Aug 31, 2010

fiveoh said:
Already have an a/c unit just trying to help it out. I'm just not sure if the gap is big enough for the brush to even fit. It's less then an inch.

The brush is design for very small gaps up to about a 1/4 inch. It makes a big difference. On a windy day take a candle and move around the door if it blows the fire any at all that is e$caping energy. A 1 inch gap is huge. In Oklahoma temps can range from 0-100 and usually windy.

fiveoh · Aug 31, 2010

Apparntly I already have the vinyl insulation like that in post #3. I'm assuming upgrading this to the brush would take care of these gaps because it conforms to the door better?

fiveoh · Aug 31, 2010

One last question if I order:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Genu...QptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools#ht_3128wt_893

Can it be installed over the existing vinyl stuff that I have?

smooth72 · Aug 31, 2010

fiveoh said:
One last question if I order:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Genu...QptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools#ht_3128wt_893

Can it be installed over the existing vinyl stuff that I have?

must be screwed into a hard surface.

fiveoh · Aug 31, 2010

smooth72 said:
must be screwed into a hard surface.

Ya, I was thinking of piggybacking it into the same surface that the vinyl is mounted on just screwing it in over it... or is that not a good idea? You said you can't have too much insulation

Oh and thanks a bunch for answering all my questions!

mpire · Sep 1, 2010

I am trying to keep the cool in, not the cool out. Think this will help?

smooth72 · Sep 1, 2010

fiveoh said:
Ya, I was thinking of piggybacking it into the same surface that the vinyl is mounted on just screwing it in over it... or is that not a good idea? You said you can't have too much insulation

Oh and thanks a bunch for answering all my questions!

I was looking at your pics, you might be able to use expandable foam, (home depot, lowes, walmart) in the upper corner. I would tape some type of plastic to the door so that the foam would not stick. Make sure you use gloves, it will not come off your hands.

smooth72 · Sep 1, 2010

mpire said:
I am trying to keep the cool in, not the cool out. Think this will help?

Insulation works all year round.

Garage_Mahal · Nov 4, 2010

What kind of screws do you use to install the vinyl seals? I have some rust resistant Hardibacker screws, do you think they would work?

Sealing Gaps Around/Above Garage Doors

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