New construction 28x48 in NH

wayoff · Jan 7, 2007

edit: project started approx. Nov. 18th, 2006

I plan on this taking over a year. I have no problem with that as long as things are happening. It took me a month to get the loan and over a month to get a building permit, but that's another story.

To start, here is the floor plan. I choose to build a building aprox. double the size of the one I rent now. I plan to only use two bays (30 ft) for projects, and One bay (18ft) for work space.

wayoff · Jan 7, 2007

This is what has been done so far. I couldn't believe what a skilled operator could do in 6 hours. They dug a hole roughly 10 ft deap, cleared the site, and buiried the stumps first, roughed in the driveway, and leveled the entire site in 4 hours. That's unloading a bulldozer, and excavator brought in from 1/2hour away. Within 6 hours, all the site work was complete.

wayoff · Jan 7, 2007

We got rained out for a couple of days, but when they came back, they dug the hole for the foundation in about 4 hours.

Because of more rain, the foundation guy couldn't come until Monday of next week. They will do the footings on Monday, and hopefully do the frost walls on Tuesday.

I don't plan on doing the floor until spring unless the framing and weathering goes a lot faster than I suspect it will.

wayoff · Jan 7, 2007

This is the trench coming from the house for my water line, cable and phone and an extra power line for when I eventually put a generator in the house, I can use some power to keep things going in the shop.

Junkman · Jan 7, 2007

Lay some extra 1 1/2" PVC into the trench now, because you never know when you will want to add something later. Spending the extra $$ now will save you lots of effort when that time comes. I would keep the telephone and cable separate from the electrical line. Also, you can put water out to the garage by snaking a 3/4" black plastic line through one of the PVC tubes. This is why I suggest adding one or two additional that will just be for future use. If you are worried about frost, just put the blue Styrofoam insulation on the sides and over the top of the PVC. You will have to cut it to fit, but it will keep the frost out. I did that with my water line from the well as a safety precaution.

wayoff · Jan 7, 2007

Ok, here's an update.
They did do the footings on Wednesday. They look ok I guess, but not what I had expected. I thought they were going to be the level part for the walls to sit on. Not so much. They bump up and down from one end to another. Everyone that has looked at it says you rough level it with the footings, then the rest of it with the walls. I also thought the footings would be 16" high, and 16" wide, They are not. They aren't any thicker than 8" anywhere, and drift between 16" and 11" wide from corner to corner. Nobody seems to think that is a problem either.

wayoff · Jan 7, 2007

Dec. 11, 2006

wayoff · Jan 7, 2007

Dec. 13, 2006

wayoff · Jan 7, 2007

Dec. 30, 2006

well, we finally got crappy enough weather to start building yesterday. It started snowing shortly after we got the sill plates down and din't stop until about an hour before sundown. We ended up working until about an hour and a half after dark, but we did get the two big walls up.

It turned out that the foundation was just about perfect. It was level and square, and just about everything it needed to be. Our only complaint was they left too small of an opening for the man door so we needed to cut about 4" out of the concrete. It wasn't that big of a deal though, my guys can do anything.

wayoff · Jan 7, 2007

Here is a copy of the electrical layout. It makes more sense if you take into account where the garage doors are going to be and what areas will be used as work space.

wayoff · Jan 7, 2007

Jan. 6, 2007

Keep in mind, this is two days work, and the first day was just me and Adam Fortin working in the snow. The second day we had two extra guys until 11:30, and then they left and another guy showed up from 1:00 until after dark. I couldn't be happier with the progress. My friends are top notch!

Red Car Garage · Jan 7, 2007

Thx for the pic's Keep them Commin!

Matt2point4 · Jan 7, 2007

Looking good so far, I like garages that are set in the trees

PAToyota · Jan 7, 2007

I was looking at the foundation pictures and was thinking you were going to have horrible problems with them like that - then I saw that the foundation walls were also poured. You'd never get away with that if you were laying block. Perhaps their idea is with the poured walls the unevenness of the foundation "keys" into the wall?

Looks like you're making great progress!

ramrod2624 · Jan 7, 2007

its looking nice! I hope I can get mine started some time soon!

Bib Overalls · Jan 7, 2007

Nice work! Are you going to put an outlet in the slab for your band saw?

Hutch · Jan 8, 2007

Looks nice. Good to NH finally got some snow instead of just rain, though it seems to have cleared up quickly!
keep the pics coming. :thumbup:

wayoff · Jan 8, 2007

Hutch said:
Looks nice. Good to NH finally got some snow instead of just rain, though it seems to have cleared up quickly!
keep the pics coming.

It rained Saturday morning, but when it cleared up, it was at least 65 and we were all weating until well after dark.

Nice IH

Ryan Wilke · Jan 8, 2007

Just my 2 cents regarding getting electrical power to your bandsaw;
I think I'd suggest you simply install a power recepticle overhead and bring the power down rather than having an electrical recepticle mounted in the floor. Reason being every floor mounted recepticle I've ever seen EVENTUALLY is covered up by something or where a walkway is wanted - meaning it's turns out to be in a undesirable location. Overhead recepticles are ess apt to be in the way of changes in equipment layout, easier to modify or move, and will NEVER have any dirt swept into them or have fluids spilled or leaked into them. I'd also add a power lead down from the ceiling to the "island" workbench nearby.

Wayoff,
a) Are you planning on installing any floor drains or grating?

b) Will the floor have a slight slope towards the overhead doors?

c) Lastly, I don't know if you're planning that far ahead yet, but I'd suggest you consider to install a "whole house" exhaust fan that would pull stale/smelly air out of the work space and push it into your attic space and out the roof venting.

Keep up the excellent progress - Lookin' Good!
RWilke :beer:

wayoff · Jan 8, 2007

Ryan Wilke said:
Just my 2 cents regarding getting electrical power to your bandsaw;
I think I'd suggest you simply install a power recepticle overhead and bring the power down rather than having an electrical recepticle mounted in the floor. Reason being every floor mounted recepticle I've ever seen EVENTUALLY is covered up by something or where a walkway is wanted - meaning it's turns out to be in a undesirable location. Overhead recepticles are ess apt to be in the way of changes in equipment layout, easier to modify or move, and will NEVER have any dirt swept into them or have fluids spilled or leaked into them. I'd also add a power lead down from the ceiling to the "island" workbench nearby.

Wayoff,
a) Are you planning on installing any floor drains or grating?

b) Will the floor have a slight slope towards the overhead doors?

c) Lastly, I don't know if you're planning that far ahead yet, but I'd suggest you consider to install a "whole house" exhaust fan that would pull stale/smelly air out of the work space and push it into your attic space and out the roof venting.

Keep up the excellent progress - Lookin' Good!
RWilke

I don't get a warm fuzzy from installing power in the floor either. I don't have a problem with having drops from the ceiling, as long as they are planned out correctly in advance.

There is no way to run floor drains in my area. That is a big no no. I plan to slope everything towards the doors.

A fan is an excellent idea and I had kind of spaced it. It would definetly make sense to wire that in as well.

THX_138 · Jan 16, 2007

Put your floor drains in and cover then with about 1/4" of concrete....after the building is finished and all the inspectors have come and left...just chip the 1/4" or so of concrete off. Floor drains are invaluable in the future.

Where abouts are you in NH...what town? I live just over the Ma. border by Rindge NH...we didn't get that snow!!!!!!!!

devinchi · Jan 16, 2007

Nice looking shop you have started there Cory!!!

tech · Jan 25, 2007

i'm in keene nh with a fresh built, 25x24.

Ironlung · Jan 26, 2007

Looks good man!
Need an update.

wayoff · Feb 19, 2007

THX_138 said:
Put your floor drains in and cover then with about 1/4" of concrete....after the building is finished and all the inspectors have come and left...just chip the 1/4" or so of concrete off. Floor drains are invaluable in the future.

Where abouts are you in NH...what town? I live just over the Ma. border by Rindge NH...we didn't get that snow!!!!!!!!

I'm in Dover which is pretty much South East NH.

The building inspectors in our area are on to that trick. If you pitch the floor towards the drain, they can tell. It's the first thing they look for. If you don't, than what's the sense of having a drain?

tech · Feb 19, 2007

my pics...these are old, the siding is complete now but i still need insulated doors, 9x8s if anyone has any?

wrigh003 · Feb 19, 2007

PAToyota said:
I was looking at the foundation pictures and was thinking you were going to have horrible problems with them like that - then I saw that the foundation walls were also poured. You'd never get away with that if you were laying block. Perhaps their idea is with the poured walls the unevenness of the foundation "keys" into the wall?

I was thinking the same thing, and was relieved when I saw poured foundation walls. Those footings looked like I poured them. :lol_hitti

rocco · Feb 19, 2007

wayoff said:
Here is a copy of the electrical layout. It makes more sense if you take into account where the garage doors are going to be and what areas will be used as work space.

who did your electrical layout/spec?
very clean and very logical.

wayoff · Feb 19, 2007

rocco said:
who did your electrical layout/spec?
very clean and very logical.

Thanks. I did it myself in PAINT.

wayoff · Feb 19, 2007

Well, we got quite a bit done this weekend. We got a Cat material handler (Lull) this weekend and that made things go pretty smooth. My buddy had access to two of them that we could borrow/rent, but actually ended up buying one by the time we got around to flying the trusses. There was only three of us for most of the weekend, and I was pretty much useless every time I tried to help. But just the two of them knocked the poop out of the roof this weekend. :bowdown:

wayoff · Feb 19, 2007

Saturday we got 2/3 of the truss' up (the first 30'), so Sunday we had to finish the truss' and do all of the sheathing while we still had the machine. The CAT needed to go back to work on Monday and make some money. So neadless to say, Sunday was a long day.

wrigh003 · Feb 19, 2007

Damn. Going up in a hurry. I guess you'll have it under shingles pretty quick now.

wayoff · Feb 19, 2007

It's a big roof to shingle. Bigger than my house my wife likes to point out. I'm hoping we can knock it out in two days. Then I'm about broke. I did talk my wife into using the tax return for the floor though. :thumbup:

Now I just need better weather.

1320stang · Feb 19, 2007

My problem, if one of my 'friends' asked me to show up, I'm there with all my tools. I don't see it working the other way, at least it didn't in the past when I was just pouring a 12x14 slab for my shed. I had rented a bobcat as the cement truck couldn't back all the way to the location, ended up about 10' short and downhill. I had 'commitments' from about twice as many people as I needed, none showed except my parents, who were about 62 & 58 at the time. No one to run the bobcat but me, I felt so bad not being able to help them drag concrete, my wife and 11 year old step-daughter helped, and I had ordered the concrete a little drier so that it would be stronger as I wasn't pouring a footing or adding any wire. It turned out okay, but started setting up on us a little sooner than I had hoped. Ah well, it's just a shed for lawn equipment and car parts I didn't want in my garage, I don't work out there.

wayoff · Feb 19, 2007

1320stang said:
My problem, if one of my 'friends' asked me to show up, I'm there with all my tools. I don't see it working the other way, at least it didn't in the past when I was just pouring a 12x14 slab for my shed. I had rented a bobcat as the cement truck couldn't back all the way to the location, ended up about 10' short and downhill. I had 'commitments' from about twice as many people as I needed, none showed except my parents, who were about 62 & 58 at the time. No one to run the bobcat but me, I felt so bad not being able to help them drag concrete, my wife and 11 year old step-daughter helped, and I had ordered the concrete a little drier so that it would be stronger as I wasn't pouring a footing or adding any wire. It turned out okay, but started setting up on us a little sooner than I had hoped. Ah well, it's just a shed for lawn equipment and car parts I didn't want in my garage, I don't work out there.

Dude, I couldn't even tell you. My friends are like nothing you have ever seen. They just do it, and don't ask what they get out of it. If you can judge a man by his friends, I'm tops. :thumbup:

I mean, don't get me wrong, I had guys not show up, but lucky for me, two guys is all I need. My Buddy Adam Fortin (there are two Adams) is going into business for himself. He has been working for other contractors for a long time. Everyone that knows him has been preasuring him to go out on his own for a while now. He just bought a LULL and has enough equipment for a whole crew now. He will do really well.

rocco · Feb 20, 2007

1320stang said:
My problem, if one of my 'friends' asked me to show up, I'm there with all my tools. I don't see it working the other way, at least it didn't in the past when I was just pouring a 12x14 slab for my shed. I had rented a bobcat as the cement truck couldn't back all the way to the location, ended up about 10' short and downhill. I had 'commitments' from about twice as many people as I needed, none showed except my parents, who were about 62 & 58 at the time. No one to run the bobcat but me, I felt so bad not being able to help them drag concrete, my wife and 11 year old step-daughter helped, and I had ordered the concrete a little drier so that it would be stronger as I wasn't pouring a footing or adding any wire. It turned out okay, but started setting up on us a little sooner than I had hoped. Ah well, it's just a shed for lawn equipment and car parts I didn't want in my garage, I don't work out there.

i know the feeling, that always happens to me. yet i keep offering myself to friends and always show up ready and with tools in hand. Heck, my buddy got a new house a few months back and on my first day off i was in there installing new lighting. i guess its not something you can expect from others, we are a rare breed.
now if i could only find someone who is like me to be my friend :bounce:

.
I'm like a french, yougn Hank Hill. :thumbup:

bluesman2a · Feb 20, 2007

rocco said:
I'm like a french, yougn Hank Hill.

Now if THAT isn't a "study in contrasts" I don't know what is... :lol_hitti

THX_138 · Feb 20, 2007

Awesome progress so far...

But can I ask a dumb question?

How come you sprung for the expense of pre-built trusses and then went and changed them after they were installed?

Would they not have made them in any format for the same price?

Or did you all of a sudden realize the extra space upstairs and decided then to alter them and add some floor joists?

1320stang · Feb 20, 2007

He didn't alter any. He has 3 different trusses. If you're looking at the front of his garage from the outside (where the 10' wide roll up doors are) he started on the left. There are two truss types where the taller walls are, at the left are the normal trusses with no attic storage, in the middle are the scissor trusses where his lift will go. Both of these trusses extend out over the doors for more overhang. Then the walls step down over the 8' roll up door area that will be his work area, this is where the attic storage truss is located. It's end is open to the lift truss area, I'mm assuming he'll make some sort of fixture to attach to the lift to raise loads and slide over to the attic area?

wayoff · Feb 21, 2007

Um, yeah. What he said. :thumbup:

Yeah, I didn't alter a thing. That's how I bought em. There is only storage space for the last 18'. Along with an attatchment on the lift, I may perminently afix a ladder to the outside of the lift, depending where the post ends up.

New construction 28x48 in NH

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