Texas 40x60 Pole Barn Build

dcovey · Sep 19, 2010

I have been waiting until I had a decent start before starting a build thread.

I want to thank 53 Driver for the recommendation of Rob Bilt out of Oklahoma.

A little background. I spent at least the last six months researching and getting bids for the building. I wanted a metal building and was leaning heavily towards wood/metal, I may be wrong but I just feel they are as strong as an all steel building and I also think they are easier to finish out on the inside.
I received quotes from about 8 different places ranging from 50,000.00 plus install to the low of 15,000 installed. The all metal ones were out of my price range at 30 to 50k plus labor.
So since I was already leaning towards a wood/metal that is the direction I took. I had several bids and had each send me a blueprint or at least detail how it was built. Believe it or not but the least expensive was actually the better built building. As an example the posts are on 10 foot centers with a double 2x6 top plate, other did not double up. 2x4 purlins and girts on 24" center nearest had them at 26". Plus there were a couple of other things done that I liked.

I went with the Rob Bilt at $14,300.00 installed.

So far with 5 working days that include site prep here is where it's at.
I had them come in and get what you see of the building up and stop at that point. Without the trusses and doors framed out that allowed me get a concrete truck all the way in the building. It saved me from having a concrete pump ($900.00) or from having to pay extra for manpower to wheel barrow the concrete. I payed $.50 a foot labor for the pour and finish ($1,200.00 labor + $120.00plastic, + $150.00 to saw expansion joints).
I talked with four concrete companies and several contractors and all agreed that I would not need any steel if I used fiberfill in the concrete. My last shop (30X50) was poured the same way and after 15 years it had one crack where we figured to have a problem. So I am confident it will be good. Even if someplace down the road I do have a problem I can always cut it out and repour.

The crew are supposed to be back Monday 20 Sep to finish the building.

Here are some pictures of what has happened so far.

dcovey · Sep 19, 2010

Here are a few more...

aqr81 · Sep 19, 2010

I'm always amazed how quickly it all goes with this type of construction. It is totally different construction in my area. This is a great sized shop and is off to a good start. I look forward to your updates.

Dano5509 · Sep 19, 2010

Thanks for posting your build! I would like a 40x60 and am very interested in seeing more photos. How high are you going on the sidewalls?

Rick98Z · Sep 19, 2010

Looks like a great start...I just had the concrete poured on my 40x60, and what a good feeling that was. I started my pole building last September and built it myself with help from friends...what a slow process that has been! Keep us posted on the build!

dcovey · Sep 20, 2010

Dano5509 said:
Thanks for posting your build! I would like a 40x60 and am very interested in seeing more photos. How high are you going on the sidewalls?

Thanks for the intrest guy's..

The walls are 14 foot. My reasons for a building this size is I drag race and also do a little chassis construction and other fabrication. I wanted a building big enough I can put my trailer in during the winter and still be able to work in it.

I will have a 10x10 door on the left (looking at it) a man door in the center and a 12x12 on the right.

Before the concrete was poured I put a 24" long piece of 3" PVC pipe capped off in the front right corner where I will run my water into the building and a 24" long 2" pvc on each side(capped) about halfway and another in the left rear corner. The side pieces are there to allow me to run something (?) into or out of the building with out cutting the floor or walls. The one in the left rear corner will be a drain for a sink and a urinal.

Rick98Z,
I thought about building this myself, but I don't have the carpentry tools or the patience for carpentry work. As someone else on GJ said when I was talking about this, it doesn't take long for a crew that knows what they are doing to put one up..
I will be doing the rest of the work myself. Wiring, plumbing and finish.

I am going with sheetrock and maybe a wainscot around the bottom.

Dano5509,

Let me know what photo's you want to see and I'll get them for you..

Thanks

Dave

Dano5509 · Sep 20, 2010

Thanks for the info! I just like lots of photos in general, especially inside shots once you get the building up..... A basic 40x60 here in the Northwest w/o insulation, concrete and one roll up plus one entry door is about $21,000 so the pricing difference is interesting. I live in Eastern WA state so we need a 40lb snow load at a minimum so that plays into it for sure. Tks again for the photos!

Nighttrain · Sep 20, 2010

$77 a yard for concrete is an awesome price. Looking forward to more pictures. I'm starting a barn build shortly with the same style of construction.

dcovey · Sep 20, 2010

Nighttrain said:
$77 a yard for concrete is an awesome price. Looking forward to more pictures. I'm starting a barn build shortly with the same style of construction.

Nighttrain,

I did call the guy you used on your shop (Wade). He came out and gave me an estimate, also sent his cousin out to give me an estimate for the dirt work..

Not saying they were not worth what they asked but both wanted double what I paid to have it done. No illegals, but the concrete guy had a couple of naturalized mexicans working for him.

Yeah, the $77.00 a yard included $7.00 per yard for the fiber mesh.

Give the guy's at Rob Bilt a call. Ask for Janet, 800-245-9325. For a while they were offering a discount on some of their metal. I missed out on it but it never hurts to ask..

Dave

Longrange10x · Sep 20, 2010

Nice looking shop you've got going. Did the $14,300 include dirt work and concrete?

Thanks
Andy

dcovey · Sep 20, 2010

Longrange10x said:
Nice looking shop you've got going. Did the $14,300 include dirt work and concrete?

Thanks
Andy

Andy,

Building and labor was $14,300.00. Dirt work and fill was $3,500.00, 30 yards of concrete ended up at $2,300.00 including fibermesh, and $1,480.00 labor to pour and finish.

A little advice I forgot to mention earlier and it goes with the thread about someone having a lein on their place over concrete.

After my fiasco in Kentucky (lein on house over contractor failing to pay for building materials) I now personally write the check for each vendor during the build. The deal I make to the contractor is you give me an estimate and then let me pay for the materials, I then cut the contractor a check for the remainder.

I sleep better at night.

Dave

Nighttrain · Sep 20, 2010

Thanks Dave I'll call Rob Bilt for the barn. I too will be doing the general construction on the barn and possible the pool this spring. After finding out what some contractors mark up the material is amazing. I guess they need too though to stay in business with equipment and folks on the books.

dcovey · Sep 21, 2010

Nighttrain said:
Thanks Dave I'll call Rob Bilt for the barn. I too will be doing the general construction on the barn and possible the pool this spring. After finding out what some contractors mark up the material is amazing. I guess they need too though to stay in business with equipment and folks on the books.

I never have an issue with the markup on material. When I ran my repair shop and when I managed a couple of others we charged list for the parts, so on most parts it was 50-100% mark up.
As long as I know going in and I agree to the price I have no issue. I figure if they can't make the profit in material they will just make it on labor if I go bargain hunting and furnish materials. I always looked at the profit on parts as what I used to pay my overhead, the labor was my paycheck.

Don't get me wrong I'll always ask if that's the best deal I can get. :lol:

Dave

Texas Dave · Sep 21, 2010

Thanks for sharing Dave. I just bought a place down in Mildred, Tx and trying to figure out a way to build a shop on a budget. I think a pole barn would do me well but on a smaller scale. Man, any pics of the little details would do me a big favor. Stuff like the double 2x6 top plate are the sort of notes I'll be taking.

Thank you so much for sharing!

-dave

dcovey · Sep 21, 2010

21 Sep 2010. The building is finished, except for my part.
The crew showed up just as it was light enough to see this morning. They rolled out of my drive at 6:15 PM..

I ca't say enough good things about these guy's. Their work ethic is the best I've seen in many years. They didn't hesitate to ask me if there was some way I wanted something done before the did it. As an example, when they started installing the man door. The bottom plate was 2 inches higher than the concrete. I was asked if I wanted it on top of the plate or sitting on the concrete. Naturally I wanted it on the concrete so they had to trim the plate to get it there. A couple of other things, like RTV the seams, and what direction I wanted the door to swing, etc..

I'll be installing the overhead doors, electrical, sheetrock, paint and plumbing. Then of course I'll empty my rented storage and bring all my equipment home. Sure will be glad to be able to use my own equipment again.

Here are the build pictures for today.

dcovey · Sep 21, 2010

Dont know what happened to that one at the bottom. It should be there with the thumbnails!!

This will be the last pictures for a while. I have to work tech at the Bracket Finals in Dallas and Montgomery, AL over the next couple of weekends so I will not be getting anything done until the middle of Oct. I'll catch ya'll up then..

Texas Dave: The details you wanted on the double girt and the others are in the batch above and this one..

Last:

Dave

davidh73750 · Oct 2, 2010

Lets see some more pics of that building. Im in NW OK and in the process of getting 10acres. Looks great!

dcovey · Oct 4, 2010

davidh73750 said:
Lets see some more pics of that building. Im in NW OK and in the process of getting 10acres. Looks great!

Thats all the pictures I have right now.
I'll take some pictures of the electrical when I return from AL.

I have the electric meter and distribution panel mounted. The power company came out while I was at Dallas Raceway (working) and ran the wiring to the meter box, but did not install the meter (?). Then someone called and left a message from the service provider. I have called the number asking if there is a problem and the only answer I can get is "there are no circuit breakers".. Why would I have breakers in the panel with nothing connected, and what difference does it make?

Now unless the person that left the message with the provider calls to explain what he means by that, I'll have to wait untill I get back to find out if I have a meter..

Dave

Tom McDermott · Oct 4, 2010

dcovey said:
I have the electric meter and distribution panel mounted. The power company came out while I was at Dallas Raceway (working) and ran the wiring to the meter box, but did not install the meter (?). Then someone called and left a message from the service provider. I have called the number asking if there is a problem and the only answer I can get is "there are no circuit breakers".. Why would I have breakers in the panel with nothing connected, and what difference does it make?

Dave

One possibility is that they want the main disconnect breaker installed. Without it in place, the 240V lugs connected to the meter would likely be exposed (and nothing to limit the current). With the breaker in place and shut off, less chance there would be something in the panel you could touch that would be live, or at least something to limit the current.

-- Tom

dcovey · Oct 4, 2010

Tom McDermott said:
One possibility is that they want the main disconnect breaker installed. Without it in place, the 240V lugs connected to the meter would likely be exposed (and nothing to limit the current). With the breaker in place and shut off, less chance there would be something in the panel you could touch that would be live, or at least something to limit the current.

-- Tom

Just got off the phone with the power company. Seems we are working with different requirements city/county. Since I am in the county I do not need a disconnect on the outside of the building, which I do not have.

The person that came out to hook it up evidently didn't see the 200 amp circuit breaker in the distribution panel, and that it was turned off. Although he mentioned the cover was not installed and there were no other circuit breakers in the panel.

Their concern is safety, so I didn't get to upset and it likely would not have been a problem anyway if I could have been here to explain what I had. After explaining to them that I do in fact have a main circuit breaker and it is turned off, also that I put the cover on, he said there should be no problem and they would get out on the 6th to install the meter.

Now I wait and see if something else comes up.. Unfortunately I will be out of town again..

Dave

davidh73750 · Oct 5, 2010

ROB Bilt is sending me out a packet with an estimate. I plan on doing a 30X50 within a year.

davidh73750 · Oct 22, 2010

More pics? show'em when you can.

dcovey · Oct 22, 2010

Not a lot of progress, because I have been out of town two weeks out of the last four.
I did pick up my doors (8 hours round trip, 500 miles) I bought a 10x10 and 12x12 roll up. from Steel Building Supply in Center, TX. I saved over 550.00 by buying there and picking them up vs shipping.

I also cleaned and sealed the floor with a semi gloss sealer (name escapes me). 2400 sq feet would have been real expensive to epoxy. It turned out nice.

I did get the meter base mounted before I went out of town and the electric company installed the meter during my absence.

Last week I had a 25x40 concrete pad poured so I can get in the shop. Trailer bogy wheels ride on it at present. Now I have to get more drive finished to stop that.

I have to get the doors installed and a couple of electrical circuits (welder and outlets) ran in the next two weeks.
I have a friend/customer bringing his wrecked Top Sportsman car to me to fix the chassis. He wants it before the next season starts and it has to go to the body shop after I finish. I'll have to spend at least a day just checking it for square and inspecting all the tubes and welds.

At that time the garage will be on the back burner..

Here are a few pictures of what I have done the past couple of weeks. Remember I work by myself so I get kinda slow at times.

FoxClover · Dec 31, 2010

David:

I was hoping to get a referral (good or bad) of your satisfaction with your Rob-Bilt construction now that you have had several months to live with it.

I'm looking to build a 40x45 pole barn in Liberty Hill (just South of your location). My quote from Rob-Bilt is $11,100 but requires a 75% payment upon parts delivery requirement. This is $2200 less than National Barn Company but they only require a 50% payment before construction occurs.

I would love to save the money and go with Rob-Bilt but I am looking for some reassurance that I will not be sitting on a pile of parts for 2 months while I call and call and hope that they will show up to complete the construction.

Your first hand experiences (good and bad) are appreciated.

Thanks,

Fox

dcovey · Dec 31, 2010

Fox,

My experiance was really very good. I have found no fault with their work and the material is what I paid for. In other words I went with the 29 gauge metal instead of 26 gauge.

You are only about 35 miles from me so if you would like to see my building you are more than welcome.

It isn't finished inside yet so you can see everything.

They did charge me 75% down. Not at signing but when they delivered the material.. Sorry for the confusion..They also worked with me on dates to start and no money changed hands until I inspected the building and it was finished.

I always talked to a lady named Janet when I was designing the building and was told the other lady (Missy) was one of the owners. Both were easy to talk to. Also, they have an engineer on site as I was asking questions about the wind load.

As I said earlier, if this has any bearing I was told the Mexican crew was the better of the two and I had no complaints with their speed or the quality of work. But they sure could put the Gatoraid away..lol.

Come on up, I'm home most of the time since I work here..

Dave

254-291-2629 (leave message because I screen my calls)

davidh73750 · Jan 26, 2011

got any more updates and pics! Love to see it.

dcovey · Jan 26, 2011

I haven't done anything inside yet other than installing enough outlets and welder plugs to allow me to work.

I commited to helping a friend with his Top Sportsman car he put in the guard rail at baton Rouge last year. It had frame rails bent and several other tubes, front end tree replacement/front end rocker panels, anti sway bar and several pieces of tin work inside. My hold up now isthat I have been waiting for almost 2 months for a replacement fiberglass door, and get the wrong one. I have a bodyshop taking one of the wrong doors we received and the old destroyed door and making one. But he is not finished yet. I must get the door mounted before I can finish fitting and mounting the front end

I realy need to get it done before I can do any finish work to the shop.

I have been working on a storage shelf made from 2x2 tubing to allow me to store all the "stuff" from my storage unit though. I don't do woodworking well because I don't have many wood working tools so this is a kick. It will be a compilation of several of the storage ideas I've gleaned from here.

Shop is really a disaster because of the car and this project. I'll post up some stuff when I can get some of the mess out of there and it warms up a little.

Thanks for the interest..

Dave

davidh73750 · Jan 26, 2011

I was going to ask how warm it is in there without insulation but sheeze looks like its 60F down there. LOL Do you plan on insulating it later?

dcovey · Jan 26, 2011

Yes, the plans are to put corrugated tin on the ceiling and blow insulation up there and use styrofoam in the walls behind sheetrock.

I have been going back and forth on how crazy I want to get on the inside. It is a working shop after all, even if all I work on is my stuff.

I think what I will do is build a loft in one corner and leave it open on the two sides. Storage on top.

Then turn that area into a man cave type deal for sitting around with friends.

I was out working in the yard a while today. It has been perfect weather for that. Down here it is almost more important to have AC more than heat, lol

Dave

HalbertBros.Racing · Jan 31, 2011

what pitch roof is on your building? Fixing to do the same size building and make 30 X 40 of it living quarters. I wish i could find someone that has their living quarter plans for this size.

paris_tj · Jan 31, 2011

Gober Pole Barns(N. Texas & Oklahoma) does nice work too, I have a 30x40x10 with 4" fiber concrete built for $10,500, including double bubble insulation. It has is all framed up on the inside with a total of R24 on the walls and R38 in the attic, it stays nice and toasty now. I am about to have them build a second one, great people to work with.

dcovey · Jan 31, 2011

HalbertBros.Racing said:
what pitch roof is on your building? Fixing to do the same size building and make 30 X 40 of it living quarters. I wish i could find someone that has their living quarter plans for this size.

Blueprints show a 3 1/2 inch pitch.

Dave

dcovey · Jan 31, 2011

paris_tj said:
Gober Pole Barns(N. Texas & Oklahoma) does nice work too, I have a 30x40x10 with 4" fiber concrete built for $10,500, including double bubble insulation. It has is all framed up on the inside with a total of R24 on the walls and R38 in the attic, it stays nice and toasty now. I am about to have them build a second one, great people to work with.

That sounds like a heck of a deal..

Did they put the insulation in it for that price or was that for the building, concrete and bubble insulation?

Dave

paris_tj · Jan 31, 2011

Just the DB was included, I added the extra....

davidh73750 · Apr 27, 2011

any updates?

dcovey · Apr 28, 2011

davidh73750 said:
any updates?

Not a lot of updates unfortunately..

This is my busiest time of year. I work for the IHRA and our season is hard at it. Not to mention I race and have commited to race the local track (Little River) as much as possible this year.

I also have a couple more cars coming in to have some repairs/updates done to them. A friend was at the NHRA D4 race a couple of weeks ago at the Dallas Motorplex and put his S/G roadster into the wall at 150 mph. Bent the chassis from the firewall forward. He is going to Germany for the company he works for so I commited to have his stuff done before he gets back. Also, have another friend who's car failed the NHRA chassis certification because they started using the 10.4 SFI specs for the roadsters and his car needs several additional bars. His was already scheduled to come in.

Not to mention my car needed a few replacements and adjustments. Slicks, data logger, and four link adjustments to name a few.

I have however gotten a few days to work on the garage. I now have electrical ran down the south wall, an outside outlet for the trailer, and I have started to run the electrical for the lights in the ceiling. I spend a lot of time second guessing myself so I don't have to many connections/splices and to have the shortest circuits possible.

I have attached the layout of the electrical, air, and water I have came up with.

Who was it that said retirement was a time for relaxation?? LOL..

davidh73750 · Apr 28, 2011

thanks. I've been reading some horror stories on here about buildings leaking rain from a outfit from tulsa that built them. How did yours hold up over the winter? no leaks? thanks for all your input... david

dcovey · Apr 28, 2011

davidh73750 said:
thanks. I've been reading some horror stories on here about buildings leaking rain from a outfit from tulsa that built them. How did yours hold up over the winter? no leaks? thanks for all your input... david

So far mine is as dry as the day it was finished.. No issues at all. We haven't had a lot of rain down here, but a few weeks ago we did have a real hard rain with wind and mine was still dry..

I would still highly recommend them to anyone who is looking to build. In fact a friend of mine will be calling them when he gets back from Afganistan in a couple of months..

bauschracing · Apr 28, 2011

The 10-4 updates messed up a lot of super gas roadsters, but after our altered hit the wall head-on at 110mph, we do not complain about safety. The roadster in my avitar had to be updated before a new sticker would be put on the tubes.
Wish I had room for a shop like yours. I work in my attached 2 car garage that was being used as a pottery studio by my daughter.
Mike

dcovey · Apr 29, 2011

bauschracing said:
The 10-4 updates messed up a lot of super gas roadsters, but after our altered hit the wall head-on at 110mph, we do not complain about safety. The roadster in my avitar had to be updated before a new sticker would be put on the tubes.
Wish I had room for a shop like yours. I work in my attached 2 car garage that was being used as a pottery studio by my daughter.
Mike

I worked out a single car garage for years. Now I just have more room to collect "stuff" lol. Sometimes bigger isn't always better.. :lol_hitti

Believe me I understand the safety part as I put my Daytona on it's roof a few years back. Since I do chassis certs for IHRA it would be good if both organizations would use the same specs in this case. I certified a car one day and passed it then they went to Houston a couple of weeks later and it wouldn't pass for a NHRA cert because of the difference. In every other instance we use the same specs except for the left hand steer roadster. We still use the rule book for specs and it doesn't have as many bars as the 10.4. The one I'm repairing had just been certified at the Motorplex the same day he wrecked it.
He replaced one bar in it at the track the night before. He had a 3/4 inch tube behind the dash and the spec calls for a 1 inch tube.

Texas 40x60 Pole Barn Build

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

New member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

New member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Active member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

New member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Active member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Attachments

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member