Need your advise guys and gals.... i have my garage choices down to either Epoxy Coat or Sherwin Williams H&C Sealer Solid Color Solvent based Stain. I've been a little leary with the Epoxy form the point of scratching, burning and the difficultly with touch up and initial application. The stain , i'm told is easy to apply and touch up in the future. Product cost and prep are essentially the same. Garage use is general shop use, auto restoration, minor welding and torch. Need to make up my mind - going for it this weekend. All advice appreciated. HELP
Help me choose - Stain or Epoxy
- Thread starter 57eyes
- Start date
johnson1975
Well-known member
I am pretty sure the stain/sealer option will be a lot cheaper vs the epoxy. I plain to stain and seal my new concrete floor due to the cost savings and durability...
really the cost difference in the product is not that great. about $100 for materials.
Also - not sure how the SW product would hold up to spills (gas, oil,paint,etc)
probably leaning towards the epoxy - but don't want to end up with a frustrating/nightmare of an install and regret it. The SW Stain application, i'm told, is fairly foolproof.
Also - not sure how the SW product would hold up to spills (gas, oil,paint,etc)
probably leaning towards the epoxy - but don't want to end up with a frustrating/nightmare of an install and regret it. The SW Stain application, i'm told, is fairly foolproof.
CaptainRay
Well-known member
They say the stain is more durable I found some advise on the net
http://www.concreteideas.com/concre...-vs-painting-finding-the-right-option-for-you
I'm sure there are more sites that cover this issue.
They are saying in the article that the stain is more durable... Wish I had done some homework before I bought the epoxy
http://www.concreteideas.com/concre...-vs-painting-finding-the-right-option-for-you
I'm sure there are more sites that cover this issue.
They are saying in the article that the stain is more durable... Wish I had done some homework before I bought the epoxy
kywildcat
Well-known member
Nice article! I've got a new floor, so I think I may go with the stain!
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Real concrete stain is only as durable as your substrate. You are probably looking at a topical product, closer to a coating.
Acid stain is what most people use to stain concrete.
Acid stain is what most people use to stain concrete.
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
Stains are just that, a stain. By themselves they don't offer much in the way of resistance to spills and no real protection against physical abrasion, wear & tear. A sealer might offer some protection against spills, but not much for dropped stuff, wear & tear.
A stain is durable in that it sticks around for a long time, but generally left unsealed the color intensity will fade over time. Sealed that degradation will take longer.
Sealed or unsealed the concrete will still chip, scratch etc.
For a DIY project the stain can be easier, but the results are pretty tough to predict.
A good epoxy will be more difficult to scratch or chip, will keep its color, and will resist spill staining and be easier to keep clean.
A stain is durable in that it sticks around for a long time, but generally left unsealed the color intensity will fade over time. Sealed that degradation will take longer.
Sealed or unsealed the concrete will still chip, scratch etc.
For a DIY project the stain can be easier, but the results are pretty tough to predict.
A good epoxy will be more difficult to scratch or chip, will keep its color, and will resist spill staining and be easier to keep clean.
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LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I just looked at the article.
Men, the stain they are referring to and showing you pictures of are probably acid stains.
Again, these soak into the concrete and impart color only. They are typically used with a lithium densifier or perhaps a sealer.
How to Stain: http://legacyindustrial.net/images/How to Stain.pdf
thegarageguy
Well-known member
Re read the article guys. It compares staining to "paint", not epoxy. Also the article is flawed. It mentions "stain" but doesn't explain what type and doesn't take into account that an acid stain needs to be sealed. Acid stains are typically sealed with acrylics or epoxies. Sure its a permanent stain but the color will not show unless it is sealed.
Ok I used self leveler to fill all my cracks and holes, cleaned and epoxied my floor. It started chipping where I placed my floor jacks, and I have peeling. My neighbor used a stain and it looks as good as the day he applied it.
On a side note, I am very hard on my floor, he isnt. I will epoxy over what I have, but then put a clear coat over it next time.
Regardless I wish I hadnt put the paint chip decorations down. It looks cool but I think its gonna look crappy on when the floor gets re-done. Im guessing the Epoxy is a recoat every few years deal... I dont know about the "professional' grade stuff on speed channel. I just used the Epoxy-coat found in your big box stores.
On a side note, I am very hard on my floor, he isnt. I will epoxy over what I have, but then put a clear coat over it next time.
Regardless I wish I hadnt put the paint chip decorations down. It looks cool but I think its gonna look crappy on when the floor gets re-done. Im guessing the Epoxy is a recoat every few years deal... I dont know about the "professional' grade stuff on speed channel. I just used the Epoxy-coat found in your big box stores.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Professional grade products are obtained directly from the manufacturer or a supply house. They don't advertise on TV.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The acid stain is part of the concrete. The sealer is very thin, it could easily be sanded (light sanding) off with a floor buffer and re-sealed. One day, one man project.
Therefore, the sealer is the only part you will have to maintain. Today's sealers last pretty good, so even that will be a while out, traffic dependent. Naturally, the solvent based products outlast the water based, similar to your hardwood floors at home.
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
Yes.
Use a clear epoxy primer to get a small amount of build up and good adhesion to the stained concrete, then an epoxy or polyurethane clear coat. The epoxy is a bit thicker, but will yellow over time. The urethane is thinner (although good ones are very abrasion resistant) but has far better UV handling.
With our line the epoxy would be BondTite 1101, put down a minimum 5 mils; and the clear EnduraShield 2254. If the floor will see a lot of punishment at least 2 coats of the BondTite would be a good idea.
The acid stain also etches the concrete, so generally there's no need to acid etch or grind.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Better yet, try this for a quick and easy stain "system".
Stain with Concrete Acid Stain: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/concrete-acid-stain-1-gallon-p-157.html
Then use a PolyAspartic Clear Coating: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/polyaspartic-urethane-coating-15-gal-p-152.html
You can do this project in the cold with a semi-heated space and the PolyAspartic coating is extremely resistant to chemicals and will not yellow.
We answered some FAQ at this link: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/page.html?chapter=0&id=9
Stain with Concrete Acid Stain: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/concrete-acid-stain-1-gallon-p-157.html
Then use a PolyAspartic Clear Coating: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/polyaspartic-urethane-coating-15-gal-p-152.html
You can do this project in the cold with a semi-heated space and the PolyAspartic coating is extremely resistant to chemicals and will not yellow.
We answered some FAQ at this link: http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/page.html?chapter=0&id=9
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garage_man
Active member
I looked at all options for my garage 57 eyes, even the epoxy-coat. glad i didnt do that Jeep Junky, that *****.
after much research, i ended up using the Rock Solid kits. you can see pics in one of my last posts or pm me and ill send you them.
I read a lot about epoxies and their durability and really wanted something that would hold up and i would never have to do again. It was easy to install, took me and a buddy one day, and it looks great!
Really easy to clean, i have spilled gas . . . you name it on it, i actually filled one of my dirt bike tires with that slime stuff you get to patch holes, it leaked out onto the floor and i could not get it up, i called them and they told me to use acetone or MEK, came right up, looks like new, i have dropped a jack and a few other things and havent noticed any damage either.
i have seen the stains that you are talking about, didnt do much research on those because i really wanted something that i wouldn't have to apply again, or at least a very long time, but people use them outside all the time, i dont think they really protect anything, they typically spray on some kind of clear sealer on top of the stain after they apply it, i assume it is just cosmetic.
after much research, i ended up using the Rock Solid kits. you can see pics in one of my last posts or pm me and ill send you them.
I read a lot about epoxies and their durability and really wanted something that would hold up and i would never have to do again. It was easy to install, took me and a buddy one day, and it looks great!
Really easy to clean, i have spilled gas . . . you name it on it, i actually filled one of my dirt bike tires with that slime stuff you get to patch holes, it leaked out onto the floor and i could not get it up, i called them and they told me to use acetone or MEK, came right up, looks like new, i have dropped a jack and a few other things and havent noticed any damage either.
i have seen the stains that you are talking about, didnt do much research on those because i really wanted something that i wouldn't have to apply again, or at least a very long time, but people use them outside all the time, i dont think they really protect anything, they typically spray on some kind of clear sealer on top of the stain after they apply it, i assume it is just cosmetic.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If you stain inside, you will probably will never have to stain again. Any stain requires a sealer or at least a densifier.
If you use reactive stain with a top coat of clear PolyAspartic, you will have a long lasting NON YELLOWING, floor system that will also allow you to be very creative and impress your neighbors. Polyaspartic are the clearest clears of all and will not yellow like urea eventually will.
Grinding/Polishing and Staining are replacing all floor coatings at a rapid pace.
Home garage floors are slowly getting there as processes and equipment become more economical to utilize.
I used the Sherwin Williams H&C Sealer Solid Color Solvent based Stain on my 30x50 shop. I am very, very pleased with the results.
I put down two coats, using a 18" roller. Took a hour to do each coat. Waited 24 hours between coats. Plus prep and cleanup is a snap.
Is it as tough as epoxy? No. But I have had no problems with gasoline or oil spills, or hot tire pickup. The spec sheet says it bonds with the surface, wont peel, flake or fade and is recommended for garage floors.
I drug some sharp metal across a portion of the floor (darn) and it did scratch the surface, but not down to the concrete. I just 'painted' some more on in that area and...no more blemish. When you need to do a touch-up, you just put some on with a brush and thats it.
It took 9 gallons to do both coats. I got a great deal on 5 gallon buckets for only $75 each (it's normally about $30 gallon).
I'd use it again...in fact I am in the garage at our summer place.
I put down two coats, using a 18" roller. Took a hour to do each coat. Waited 24 hours between coats. Plus prep and cleanup is a snap.
Is it as tough as epoxy? No. But I have had no problems with gasoline or oil spills, or hot tire pickup. The spec sheet says it bonds with the surface, wont peel, flake or fade and is recommended for garage floors.
I drug some sharp metal across a portion of the floor (darn) and it did scratch the surface, but not down to the concrete. I just 'painted' some more on in that area and...no more blemish. When you need to do a touch-up, you just put some on with a brush and thats it.
It took 9 gallons to do both coats. I got a great deal on 5 gallon buckets for only $75 each (it's normally about $30 gallon).
I'd use it again...in fact I am in the garage at our summer place.
Steve, thats what I plan to do. But what about prep work? What did it require? I have an oil stain in the middle of the floor. Will it show through after I apply the stain? Whats the best way to make sure it doesnt? In other words, whats the best way to clean it off, remove it? Thanks
70 chevelle
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2010
- Messages
- 44
Steve,
do you have any pictures.
Thanks
do you have any pictures.
Thanks
cpederslie
Member
My concrete gets poured Tuesday, so trying to make up my mind which way to go.
Steve, would like to see some pics of your SW stain.
Steve, would like to see some pics of your SW stain.
I have been in the industrial flooring business for thirty years , and installed well over 10 million sq.ft. of epoxy , polyurathane , mma , novolac , polyester, polyaspartic and every other resinous material manufactured over the years , if it was my garage or shop floor
( I have a few my self) i would do nothing but diamond grind / polish then seal with a penetrating reactive material like Euclid Chemical's diamond hard, I would however engage a professional , if you want to see what it can look like take a look at a Lowes or Home Depo they have been using this method for years...
will not chip , delam , fade ,peel discolor or cost much if done correctly looks great and is cheep to maintain , why do you think the big box boys go that way....
Just my 2 cents...
( I have a few my self) i would do nothing but diamond grind / polish then seal with a penetrating reactive material like Euclid Chemical's diamond hard, I would however engage a professional , if you want to see what it can look like take a look at a Lowes or Home Depo they have been using this method for years...
will not chip , delam , fade ,peel discolor or cost much if done correctly looks great and is cheep to maintain , why do you think the big box boys go that way....
Just my 2 cents...
Google floor polishing contractors.... where do u live??
get a few opnions and prices guys are looking for work right now....
have them do a sample / mock up in a area that will be covered for you to approve.
if done correctly you will be happy trust me...
get a few opnions and prices guys are looking for work right now....
have them do a sample / mock up in a area that will be covered for you to approve.
if done correctly you will be happy trust me...
thrifty bill
Well-known member
Is this what Walmart is using? We have a newish Walmart store in town (1 to 2 year old), it has a stained concrete floor that looks terrific!! The Lowes in town did not do a thing to their floor, looks kind of crappy (probably built before they were staining their floors).
REAL HOT SCHITT
Banned
Hi from n.z
try lookin at 2 coats of oil based gloss enamel paint after the undercoat.
I have a m8t whom line his workshop with ply and had poor coverage with water base paint.... Then i got him to use oil the place is now a "sky blue car mansion"....u can choose any color and weld sparks and smoke does not melt in like water base but just wipes clean.
Jj
try lookin at 2 coats of oil based gloss enamel paint after the undercoat.
I have a m8t whom line his workshop with ply and had poor coverage with water base paint.... Then i got him to use oil the place is now a "sky blue car mansion"....u can choose any color and weld sparks and smoke does not melt in like water base but just wipes clean.
Jj
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I agree with Scout.
However. it is a heck of a job to do without proper training and equipment.
You really have to reach out to a professional.
However. it is a heck of a job to do without proper training and equipment.
You really have to reach out to a professional.