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Brake bleeder poll-To push or to pull

Push or Pull for brake fluid flushing?

  • Motive pressure bleeder

    Votes: 42 45.2%
  • Mityvac vacuum bleeder

    Votes: 30 32.3%
  • Other

    Votes: 21 22.6%

  • Total voters
    93

scott37300

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I know this has been covered before but I want to buy a brake bleeder and am torn between the motive pusher and the mityvac puller! I have read good and bad reviews for both of them and need some advice to push me to buy one of them.

The motive bleeder is around 60 bucks for the basic kit and 100 for the universal kit for most vehicles. You have to pump it up and the adaptors for the master cylinder seem a little funny. I like that you just set it up at the master cylinder and don't have to move the whole unit around to each wheel. I'm not sure the benefits of pushing fluid threw the system, does this make a difference with the ABS systems at all?

The mityvac model is around 120 bucks for the most complete kit. It has a bottle to keep the master cylinder full of fluid and has a unit you hook up to shop air to create a vacuum and pull the new fluid threw. Not sure if air would be a good thing or more of a pain dragging a hose around. I've heard that pulling the fluid you can get some air bubbles from around the bleeder valve to look like air in the lines. How does pulling the fluid work with ABS systems?

MITMV6835.jpg


Just trying to get some feel as to which one works better before spending the money. Seeing if there is any ups or downs to one or the other. Or if there is something else out there better.
 
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whatsitsname

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Just buy the $30 air one from Harbor Freight. I have that one and it works pretty good. I'm not familiar with a push system so I can't comment.
 

Fedwrench

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The motive is probably the better choice for home use unless you do it professionally and then spend $1800 and get a power probe unit with aluminum adapters.
There is a tendenacy when using an air powered vacuum bleeder such as the vacula that air bypasses the bleeder threads and you don't get as good of a bleed. With the Motive, or any other pressurized type bleeder, the fluid is pressurized up to about 30 psi. This pressure pushes the air bubbles and fluid out into a catch bottle when you open the bleeder valve. I prefer the pressurized type but, that's just me. I've tried everything from hand operated vaccum pumps, vaculas, phoenix systems pumps, motive and the power probe. The power probe is the best thing since sliced bread but, it's for a shop environment. The motive works well for limited use. You could always make one out of a garden sprayer.:beer:
 
OP
S

scott37300

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Thanks for the votes guys.

I'm kind of leaning towards the motive just because you set it up once and only need to carry a little bottle and wrench to each wheel instead of a bigger mityvac unit connected to an air supply. The only thing I'm not sold on for the motive is the adapters for the master cylinder, the universal ones seem funny and the vehicle specific ones could get expensive if you have a couple different vehicles.

Does anyone know if one type works better with the ABS systems? Or if neither one does a better job on the ABS unless you have a computer to open and close the valves? If one does better with the ABS system that might be a deciding factor for me.
 

dkroth

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Motive.

If you don't want to spend time pumping, add a mag-style, screw-in Schrader valve to the canister and pressurize it with shop air.
 

38D

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Definitely get the Motive. If you go to a race track, you never see the vacuum style. I find that the pressure style does a better job and gives a firmer pedal.
 

chicane

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Just buy the $30 air one from Harbor Freight. I have that one and it works pretty good. I'm not familiar with a push system so I can't comment.

The HF bleeder doesn't work worth ****....I could put one of my ex-girlfriends at the end of a small hose that would **** better than that thing.
 

Ign

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Motive for sure. Try to hook up vacuum and nothing happens, or you get air past the threads.
 
OP
S

scott37300

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So if I go with the motive what adaptors do you recomend? I see they make a square and round "universal" that look a little ackward to use. And they make manufacturer specific caps that are around 30 bucks a peice that look nicer. But I have a ford, woman has a chevy, mom has a honda(which from what I read they don't have an adaptor for yet) so right there would be around 100 bucks just in adaptors. Should I just buy the vehicle specific adaptors as needed or are the universal ones OK?
 

Mike F

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I have the Motive and I like it. Since I am always concerned about the possibility of device failure, and since brake fluid and a car's finish do not mix, I put the pump unit inside a trash bag, set it in a box for stability, and use it that way. It has never leaked on me, but the first time I don't do this I know it will.
 

WHT

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Manufacturers of brake fluid and some mechanics (people who make money by selling brake fluid AND people who make money by replacing brake fluid) tell you how important it is to bleed brakes and periodically replace brake fluid.

However, studies by the major auto manufacturers show a sealed brake system that has never been opened can maintain acceptable water absorption percentages (less than 3%) over periods of seven to twelve years. Most of the water found in a brake system enters when the reservoir is opened and/or when bleeding brakes. Auto manufacturers use completely dry and sealed equipment to fill brake reservoirs and lines. So, be sure you actually need to bleed the brakes or replace the fluid.

Regardless of which "works" best or whether you believe the above information, there is more opportunity for water to contaminate brake fluid when air pressure (with air containing moisture) is used to push fluid instead of pull fluid.

EDIT: Before I get hammered, this assumes you are not racing and degrading the brake fluid (boiling) with heat greater than the design capabilities of the fluid.
 
Last edited:

dwm

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The other obvious helper is speed bleeder valves. For quick bleeds versus complete flushes, I prefer them over using my Motive. You can get them for a large number of OEM and aftermarket calipers.

www.speedbleeder.com
 
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scott37300

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The other obvious helper is speed bleeder valves. For quick bleeds versus complete flushes, I prefer them over using my Motive. You can get them for a large number of OEM and aftermarket calipers.

www.speedbleeder.com

Those are pretty nice but I end up working on my vehicles and all my families stuff and then friends are always bringing stuff over so I would rather have a more "universal" bleeder to work on all cars.

I like the motive but not sure about all the adaptors for the master cylinder. I also like the mityvac but not sure about the air getting in by the bleeder valve, although I read you can use some grease to prevent this. And also not sure about carrying a unit around hooked up to air, seems like the motive that you set up once at the master and then just carry a little bottle and wrench around would be simpler.
 

GeorgiaHybrid

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I have the MityVac that the OP pictured and have not had a problem with it, ABS brakes work well and the "air bubbles" around the bleeder valve have not been a problem for me, I just crack them enough for bleeding and not enough to loosen them and introduce air into the system. I don't use the bottle hanger for the master cylinder though. All you need to do is fill it maybe once while bleeding and you are good to go.

Just vacuum out the master cylinder, refill with new and then start bleeding the wheels. As long as the air gets out of the system, that is all that matters in the long run. This unit requires no spcial adapters and the hose is no more of a problem than dragging it around with an impact wrench pulling the wheels off.
 

May Pop

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The problem with the expensive ones like the Branick is you need many expensive adapters. That said they are the very best at gettig rid of air pockets is any system.
Ron
 
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S

scott37300

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I have the MityVac that the OP pictured and have not had a problem with it, ABS brakes work well and the "air bubbles" around the bleeder valve have not been a problem for me, I just crack them enough for bleeding and not enough to loosen them and introduce air into the system. I don't use the bottle hanger for the master cylinder though. All you need to do is fill it maybe once while bleeding and you are good to go.

Just vacuum out the master cylinder, refill with new and then start bleeding the wheels. As long as the air gets out of the system, that is all that matters in the long run. This unit requires no spcial adapters and the hose is no more of a problem than dragging it around with an impact wrench pulling the wheels off.

Thanks for the detailed review.

I'm starting to think that they are both good and it's just a personal prefference. Think which ever one I end up getting is just going to be a flip of the coin since there doesn't seem to be an advantage one way or the other. I really like the fact that you don't need a bunch of adaptors for the mityvac like you do for the motive bleeder. The only downfall I see to the mityvac is the part of dragging the whole thing around with an air hose but I guess that isn't that bad of a thing.

I just looked into the mityvac without the master cylinder bottle and it's only 4 dollars cheaper.
 

Vicegrip

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Manufacturers of brake fluid and some mechanics (people who make money by selling brake fluid AND people who make money by replacing brake fluid) tell you how important it is to bleed brakes and periodically replace brake fluid.

However, studies by the major auto manufacturers show a sealed brake system that has never been opened can maintain acceptable water absorption percentages (less than 3%) over periods of seven to twelve years. Most of the water found in a brake system enters when the reservoir is opened and/or when bleeding brakes. Auto manufacturers use completely dry and sealed equipment to fill brake reservoirs and lines. So, be sure you actually need to bleed the brakes or replace the fluid.

Regardless of which "works" best or whether you believe the above information, there is more opportunity for water to contaminate brake fluid when air pressure (with air containing moisture) is used to push fluid instead of pull fluid.

EDIT: Before I get hammered, this assumes you are not racing and degrading the brake fluid (boiling) with heat greater than the design capabilities of the fluid.

I would like to see the documentation that reports this if you have it handy. This goes counter to what i have read and what I have seen via direct testing. Have you see what 4 year old brake and hydraulic clutch fluid looks like? Contamination comes in many forms not just water.

The push and pull argument makes no sense. The air is not in contact with the fluid for any lenght of time.
 

Matt M PA

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I have one like the Mityvac shown except mine is a Vacula (insert sinister laugh)

I also have the hand pump Mityvac.

Yet, I still do it the old fashioned way with my homemade Folgers jar/clear tube bleeder....and a helper to press the pedal.
 

Lkdelta

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However, studies by the major auto manufacturers show a sealed brake system that has never been opened can maintain acceptable water absorption percentages (less than 3%) over periods of seven to twelve years. Most of the water found in a brake system enters when the reservoir is opened and/or when bleeding brakes.

1. Are these tools more effective than getting a helper to "pump it up and hold"?
2.How many "front caliper replacements" are probably ok before I should consider replacing the brake fluid?

P.S...she has a "motor paper route" and replacing front calipers because of busted rubber boot on the main piston, etc is probably yearly.
 
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jay50

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Manufacturers of brake fluid and some mechanics (people who make money by selling brake fluid AND people who make money by replacing brake fluid) tell you how important it is to bleed brakes and periodically replace brake fluid.

However, studies by the major auto manufacturers show a sealed brake system that has never been opened can maintain acceptable water absorption percentages (less than 3%) over periods of seven to twelve years. Most of the water found in a brake system enters when the reservoir is opened and/or when bleeding brakes. Auto manufacturers use completely dry and sealed equipment to fill brake reservoirs and lines. So, be sure you actually need to bleed the brakes or replace the fluid.

Regardless of which "works" best or whether you believe the above information, there is more opportunity for water to contaminate brake fluid when air pressure (with air containing moisture) is used to push fluid instead of pull fluid.

EDIT: Before I get hammered, this assumes you are not racing and degrading the brake fluid (boiling) with heat greater than the design capabilities of the fluid.

:wtf:, you seriously need to lay off the "pipe" for a while...
b33a8abd.jpg
 

Stick

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Manufacturers of brake fluid and some mechanics (people who make money by selling brake fluid AND people who make money by replacing brake fluid) tell you how important it is to bleed brakes and periodically replace brake fluid.

However, studies by the major auto manufacturers show a sealed brake system that has never been opened can maintain acceptable water absorption percentages (less than 3%) over periods of seven to twelve years. Most of the water found in a brake system enters when the reservoir is opened and/or when bleeding brakes. Auto manufacturers use completely dry and sealed equipment to fill brake reservoirs and lines. So, be sure you actually need to bleed the brakes or replace the fluid.

Regardless of which "works" best or whether you believe the above information, there is more opportunity for water to contaminate brake fluid when air pressure (with air containing moisture) is used to push fluid instead of pull fluid.

EDIT: Before I get hammered, this assumes you are not racing and degrading the brake fluid (boiling) with heat greater than the design capabilities of the fluid.

Funny how we have this discussion a couple times a year, and someone always says something about some "manufacturer study" that says you don't need to bleed brakes, or comments that there is no recommended service interval for brake fluid. Odd thing is that nobody ever seems to provide any sort of documentation, other than to claim that it exists. I also find it odd how BMW recommends a service interval of two years, VAG is two years, Honda is 25-30k miles, Subaru is 30k miles, etc. IIRC, Ford has also recently switched to a reccomendation of 3yrs/36k miles as well.

I wouldn't bleed brake fluid just to bleed them, but it's a good idea to bleed or flush brakes when you are working on them. Fluid contamination comes from more than just water like copper contamination.

Also to keep in mind is that most modern brake systems are not completely sealed. In fact most ABS brake systems have caps that are vented to atmosphere. This is done for two reasons: decreasing response time of the fluid entering the ABS pump (so it doesn't have to fight the diaphragm in the cap), and to prevent self application of brakes when the fluid expands. I've actually posted pictures of this before.

For the OP: I prefer pulling the fluid through, but really either method does the job.
 
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scott37300

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Funny how we have this discussion a couple times a year, and someone always says something about some "manufacturer study" that says you don't need to bleed brakes, or comments that there is no recommended service interval for brake fluid. Odd thing is that nobody ever seems to provide any sort of documentation, other than to claim that it exists. I also find it odd how BMW recommends a service interval of two years, VAG is two years, Honda is 25-30k miles, Subaru is 30k miles, etc. IIRC, Ford has also recently switched to a reccomendation of 3yrs/36k miles as well.

I wouldn't bleed brake fluid just to bleed them, but it's a good idea to bleed or flush brakes when you are working on them. Fluid contamination comes from more than just water like copper contamination.

Also to keep in mind is that most modern brake systems are not completely sealed. In fact most ABS brake systems have caps that are vented to atmosphere. This is done for two reasons: decreasing response time of the fluid entering the ABS pump (so it doesn't have to fight the diaphragm in the cap), and to prevent self application of brakes when the fluid expands. I've actually posted pictures of this before.

For the OP: I prefer pulling the fluid through, but really either method does the job.

Stick, I read that whole brake thread of yours everytime it comes up, think I have it memorized now! I remember reading it when you first posted it but didn't take in all the details and then when I posted about my central runout gauge score you linked to it again. Very nice write up.

I think I am going to go with the mityvac for a couple reasons. The biggest factor is that it doesn't need a different master cylinder adaptor for each manufacturer which could get expensive.

Thanks for all the good advice everyone. I do want to start flushing the fluid every 2 years. It is cheap insurance to keep things fresh and clean. And with a bleeder like this it will make short work of it.
 

WHT

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I would like to see the documentation that reports this if you have it handy. This goes counter to what i have read and what I have seen via direct testing. Have you see what 4 year old brake and hydraulic clutch fluid looks like? Contamination comes in many forms not just water.

The push and pull argument makes no sense. The air is not in contact with the fluid for any lenght of time.



So, keep on doing what you "know is right" and be happy.

The problem with trying to discuss technical matter on this Forum is that many people aren't really interested in facts versus "conventional wisdom" and what they have been told by some unspecified person in the past. And, everyone wants you to document your ideas while providing zilch documentation to show why you are wrong (plus being fairly rude in their response).

Published SAE documents contain a wealth of industry information on engineering and testing and I'm sure you collect and read these to keep informed. If a four year old system is corroded it has been exposed to the atmosphere at some time.

A summary of several include (although you know more than Ford or GM):

"Ford does not recommend changing DOT 3 fluid or flushing the system. Ford says their recommendation is a "risk versus benefit" assessment because there's a potential for doing more damage than good. If sediment or contamination from the master cylinder is pushed through the ABS unit, it can cause big problems. Flushing the system also increases the risk of air entrapment and leaks.

Ford says their brake systems are engineered to tolerate brake fluid contamination of up to 3 percent moisture without fluid boil (which is close to the saturation point for DOT 3 brake fluid). Ford said they measured the water content in 7 to 10 year old Ford vehicles and found that the water content was actually quite low: only 1 to 1-1/2 percent. So based on their findings and the design target of 3 percent water, they see no need to change the fluid for preventive maintenance. Most of the water in a brake system is introduced when the sealed system is opened during unnecessary maintenance"

"GM's position on brake fluid is that they do not recommend changing it on most vehicles. GM brake systems are sealed and should not need flushing. GM's goal is to reduce maintenance requirements, not add them."
 

Jack90210

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I use a vac system (Griot's "Fluid Extractor," the one they sell now is more versatile than the original one made exclusively for brakes) and it works great -- perhaps the best $70 I ever spent on a tool.
 

Stick

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So, keep on doing what you "know is right" and be happy.

The problem with trying to discuss technical matter on this Forum is that many people aren't really interested in facts versus "conventional wisdom" and what they have been told by some unspecified person in the past. And, everyone wants you to document your ideas while providing zilch documentation to show why you are wrong (plus being fairly rude in their response).

Published SAE documents contain a wealth of industry information on engineering and testing and I'm sure you collect and read these to keep informed. If a four year old system is corroded it has been exposed to the atmosphere at some time.

A summary of several include (although you know more than Ford or GM):

"Ford does not recommend changing DOT 3 fluid or flushing the system. Ford says their recommendation is a "risk versus benefit" assessment because there's a potential for doing more damage than good. If sediment or contamination from the master cylinder is pushed through the ABS unit, it can cause big problems. Flushing the system also increases the risk of air entrapment and leaks.

Ford says their brake systems are engineered to tolerate brake fluid contamination of up to 3 percent moisture without fluid boil (which is close to the saturation point for DOT 3 brake fluid). Ford said they measured the water content in 7 to 10 year old Ford vehicles and found that the water content was actually quite low: only 1 to 1-1/2 percent. So based on their findings and the design target of 3 percent water, they see no need to change the fluid for preventive maintenance. Most of the water in a brake system is introduced when the sealed system is opened during unnecessary maintenance"

"GM's position on brake fluid is that they do not recommend changing it on most vehicles. GM brake systems are sealed and should not need flushing. GM's goal is to reduce maintenance requirements, not add them."

Ah, I see you can selectively quote info from the aa1car.com website. The article that you quoted from is from 2001, and many manufacturers have changed their stance on brake fluid service since then. In fact, if you go the the same article a year later, you get the following:

GM says fluid changes are unnecessary - except for some offshore models that do have a specified change interval. For 2004, new GTO Monaro (Holden) from Australia will have a fluid change recommendation. GM is, however, currently reviewing the FASCAR drip strip method of checking brake fluid.
In the GM quote that you provided, you left out "The only exceptions are Metro and Tracker models". So that's at least a couple of GM models that have fluid change intervals. IRIC the FASCAR test strips are now accepted by GM for fluid testing.

Ford says need to flush and change fluid varies depending on the area of the country (no moisture problem in Arizona but there is in Florida), and also on the robustness (corrosion resistance) of the parts in the brake system. Ford's service life for brake fluid is 10 years, 150,000 miles (has been this for past four or five years). Ford says if there is a reliable way to test fluid and the fluid tests bad, then it should be changed. Otherwise, leave it alone.

That was 2002, and manufacturers have changed info again. As I stated in my last post, Ford now recommends a service interval of 3yrs/36,000 miles. Most imports, asian and domestic, have reccomended service intervals of 2-3 years, or mileage intervals that put them in the same ballpark. Not sure why domestic makes don't have recommended intervals, though brake fluid is on a "periodic" or "as needed" basis, probably to make service intervals look longer.

Over on iATN, one post states:
If you want to sell brake fluid changes and stay out of
trouble, use the strip dip test strips to test for copper
contamniation and a refractometer to test for water. Having
proven, accepted test results that show its bad allow you to
responsibly sell the fluid change. An interesting note, I
worked on the tech line for Bendix for 8 yrs, we tracked
hydraulic complaints by vehicle make and then separated them
by manufacturers that recommend fluid changes and those who
say it lasts forever. Over 2000 hyd complaints, 1890 of them
where attributed to automakers who say fluid lasts forever!
A hint, test fluid removed from the caliper, not the
resivour.

The biggest reason for a brake fluid change or "flush" is a PH shift that can have an end result of internal corrosion in the brake system because the fluid becomes acidic. The easiest way to test for contamination are test strips that test for the presence of copper, or a refractometer to check for water.

I wouldn't change fluid just to change it, but I make damn sure that it is up to accepted standards by checking for contamination. Generally I see signs of contamination within two years of the last time the fluid was changed, and if it's at all questionable, I change it. It's not for the safety of the other idiots on the road, it's for the safety of the driver.

As a side note, I am a mechanic, though I don't make money working flat-rate. I work for a municipal fleet shop, and am paid by the hour, so I have no stake in "selling" fluid flushes, my only interest is in doing the job right.
 

metal1313

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i use a little hand held mityvac pump to do the grunt of the work, then have my...who ever is there and had legs, pump the brakes a few times to check everything over. i would like to build a pressure pot on though out of a cheak sprayer
 

vssjim

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I use a pressure bleeder mostly the only thing with vacume bleeding is most brake parts makers tell you it best not you use full blast air as you can pull air and dirt in to seals and the system by over boosting suction bleeders.
 

dankicksass

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A Mityvac or similar vacuum bleeder is simple and effective. Having a partner pump and hold can damage a master cylinder if you run out of fluid, but I don't know anyone who's done that. First time for everything, I guess. I don't believe in reverse bleeders that shove fluid in thru the bleeder screw and I don't like the idea of pressurizing the brake fluid reservoir. I don't care what Chrysler studies said, you should bleed your brakes and change your fluid any time you think about doing either.
 

Toolhorder

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Funny how we have this discussion a couple times a year, and someone always says something about some "manufacturer study" that says you don't need to bleed brakes, or comments that there is no recommended service interval for brake fluid. Odd thing is that nobody ever seems to provide any sort of documentation, other than to claim that it exists. I also find it odd how BMW recommends a service interval of two years, VAG is two years, Honda is 25-30k miles, Subaru is 30k miles, etc. IIRC, Ford has also recently switched to a reccomendation of 3yrs/36k miles as well.

I wouldn't bleed brake fluid just to bleed them, but it's a good idea to bleed or flush brakes when you are working on them. Fluid contamination comes from more than just water like copper contamination.

Also to keep in mind is that most modern brake systems are not completely sealed. In fact most ABS brake systems have caps that are vented to atmosphere. This is done for two reasons: decreasing response time of the fluid entering the ABS pump (so it doesn't have to fight the diaphragm in the cap), and to prevent self application of brakes when the fluid expands. I've actually posted pictures of this before.

For the OP: I prefer pulling the fluid through, but really either method does the job.

FYI,
Honda says every two years just did the updated factory training last year on brake systems and they mentioned it several times.
 

35mastr

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I have the Vacula. Dont use it much as it takes longer than using my old school 32 ounce Gatorade bottle and a letnth of vacum hose. Bleed brakes all by myself everyday when doing the ALG campaigns on the Lexus RX.
 

dragonle87

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Very interesting....I was used to the old manual bleed.

Which Motive Power Bleeder Kit is universal for domestic & imports?
(Ford, Chevrolet, Honda, Mazda, Toyota, Chrysler etc)

Thanks
 
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scott37300

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Very interesting....I was used to the old manual bleed.

Which Motive Power Bleeder Kit is universal for domestic & imports?
(Ford, Chevrolet, Honda, Mazda, Toyota, Chrysler etc)

Thanks

Go to the motive site and it will show you the adaptors for the motive bleeder. I don't really like the looks of the universal plates, just looks like a pain.
 

dragonle87

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Go to the motive site and it will show you the adaptors for the motive bleeder. I don't really like the looks of the universal plates, just looks like a pain.

I just did. Too much of a headache, great idea though.

Though since I work in the shop, I used the MityVac but since the techs doesnt take care of it. It works when it wants to. So I was thinking of buying a auto-refiller & a one-man brake bleeder hose.

http://www.alltradetools.com/catalog/brake/110-648400-one-man-brake-bleeder-hose.html
 
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scott37300

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