Doug Arnold
New member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2010
- Messages
- 1
Awhile back someone was looking for a cost effective way to seal the huge air leak at the top of a roll up door. No one ever came up with a good solution. Does anyone have a solution?
Sealing roll up door
- Thread starter Doug Arnold
- Start date
HemiRambler
Well-known member
It might have been me asking that on a previous post. Nope nothing good really. I ended up doing what I do every year and swear I'll improve, but never do. I stick 4" of foam insulation on the outside of the door. Hold it in place with 3 firing strips - not much to look at and actually easy to toss up, but admittedly a bit hillbilly.
They sell remotes that control a generic switch -I think it'd be easy enough to wire in to your existing circuit. Worst case I think you'd need to add a relay if the contacts weren't rated high enough.
They sell remotes that control a generic switch -I think it'd be easy enough to wire in to your existing circuit. Worst case I think you'd need to add a relay if the contacts weren't rated high enough.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
Here is my fix, which I recently posted.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83652
It isn't perfect, but it helps. If this were in cold country, it would pay to have some other kind of door. Its impossible to get a decent seal on a corrugated door, and seal up that huge gap.
Charles
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83652
It isn't perfect, but it helps. If this were in cold country, it would pay to have some other kind of door. Its impossible to get a decent seal on a corrugated door, and seal up that huge gap.
Charles
I have the same issue on a 16' and a 10' door. I have ordered some rubber off of eBay 1/8" thick that I will fold over to make a soft lazy oval which will contact the door at all times. I hope that it will "flip up" or "flip down" depending on the door travel direction.
My gap is a 2", and about 1-1/2" of that will be the soft lazy oval. The other 1/2" will be the rigid mount. I am think about a 2-3" wide metal strip mounted on the underside of the top door frame opening. Worse case scenario I can use a 1x4 treated lumber. Once I get the material and test I will provide a update. I could have used felt as well but am pleased with what I believe the rubber will provide.
Hopefully you can visualize the concept.
My gap is a 2", and about 1-1/2" of that will be the soft lazy oval. The other 1/2" will be the rigid mount. I am think about a 2-3" wide metal strip mounted on the underside of the top door frame opening. Worse case scenario I can use a 1x4 treated lumber. Once I get the material and test I will provide a update. I could have used felt as well but am pleased with what I believe the rubber will provide.
Hopefully you can visualize the concept.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
If the door is adjusted correctly, you have a minimal gap when the door is UP, this is what makes closing off the gap created when the door is DOWN, so difficult.
I like the solution the Aussie company came up with, but finally came up with my blocker or flipper door, just because I had virtually everything to build it with.
Charles
I like the solution the Aussie company came up with, but finally came up with my blocker or flipper door, just because I had virtually everything to build it with.
Charles
Attachments
BrownBagg
What was the thickness of your material? What was the length of your flap? I am hoping the large oval will maintain contact with the door at all times and have enough resistance to the wind. The rubber I selected is 1/8" thick and will be doubled over. My door does not get a lot of up down, no more than a couple of times day on average and maybe only once or twice a week in the cold. Granted I may have to experiment to achieve desired results.
I like what Charles did, but the 16' door width complicates things....kudo's to Charles for his design!