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Garage/shop stage 4: air, 220v, more light, insulation, hvac (PICS)

Redshift

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2010
Messages
105
I have previously posted pics and details about my ongoing shop/garage build - stage 1 was the building itself, stage 2 was a lengthy DIY on how I did my epoxy flooring, stage 3 covered the 2-post lift selection and installation, and now I have almost finished stage 4, so I figured I'd post it up.

Next up will be finalizing lighting locations, figuring out wall surfaces, and finding good quality but inexpensive used cabinets and countertops. From there, it will be 99% complete.

Stage 4 included:

  • Adding more lights on a separate switch on the angled rafers for fill light
  • Completing two air compressor outlets, including my regulator and water trap and a 50' hose reel mounted on the ceiling
  • Adding ethernet and coax
  • R-15 insulation in all 2x4 walls, R-19 in 2x6 walls, and R-30 in ceiling and rafter joists, plus proper fire caulking and foam sealing around windows and intrusions
  • Adding a garage vac
  • Adding two 30A, 220v outlets for future welder, etc
  • Organizing several toolboxes
  • Adding 18,000 BTU mini split ductless aircon and heater

The lights (8 total) took a while. I had to disassemble each one, remove the pull switch, remove the plug-in cord, and convert to "hardwire". I mounted each directly to the ceiling joists and ran 12ga romex directly into the hole where the plug came out before. I also spaced them evenly and put them low enough to ensure they are unblocked even with the overhead door wide open. I still have to figure out final placement for the ceiling lights - possibly adding some more to the layout, as the lift interferes with layout symmetry, and then convert all of those to hardwired as well. Each light fixture was $29 at Home Depot and the bulbs were a couple bucks each. Not too bad for the sheer amount of light I have in there. It's like daylight at night.

Using the RapidAir kit from Northern Tool I added around 100 feet of line from the compressor, to the shop, into my regulator/water trap, then to the manifold which splits into one wall outlet and one 50 foot hose reel permanently mounted on the ceiling (on sale at Northern for $50).

Ethernet and coax were simple and were run to the areas where my floor and overhead cabinets will be once I buy them. No cost, since I had large spools of wire already on hand from wiring my basement a year ago.

Garage vac was $150 or so at Amazon including shipping. Works great, very powerful, not too loud, and a very large capacity. Came with tons of tools and cleans up the entire place in minutes.

Using 10-3 romex, I added two 220v, 30A outlets for future use. I had a spare 30A breaker so the wire cost was roughly $70 or so. Neighbor needed some of the wire so we split a 100 foot roll.

Organizing toolboxes after years of careless use - priceless, but very time consuming. How crazy is it that I can no longer find anything due to being so organized???

I had bought a rolling tool cart on sale at Harbor Freight for $160, VERY STURDY with ball bearing drawer slides. Rubber wheels, etc. It's wonderful and I stocked it up with my most common auto repair tools so it should be almost everything I need when doing most jobs.

Bought a Shinco (Chinese brand) 18,000 BTU ductless mini split heat/aircon online for $1100 shipped. Works down to 17 degrees outside temp and provides great heating and cooling. VERY QUIET. Qualifies for 30% federal tax credit, so including my buddy's help to install it, probably under $1000 "out the door" after tax credit is figured in. Small price to pay for the ultimate in comfort for a shop I spend many hours a week in.

Here are some pics of the progress:

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digdug18

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Joined
Feb 14, 2010
Messages
311
Location
Danville, PA
Looks good. Was your fiberglass always so dirty looking? Have you air sealed your garage?
Something you might look into if you want a really efficient space, heating/cooling wise I mean. I would also suggest some sheet rock between the inside space and the 2x4's, they like to catch fire when welding at times.
Also you might consider leaving a battery for your cordless drill on a charger, then having the charger connected to a timer, so that you always have one "ready", for when you want to use it.

Otherwise looks good to me.
 
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Redshift

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Joined
Aug 4, 2010
Messages
105
Fully air sealed and fire caulked. Fiberglass is brown and not dirty. It's brand new. Sheetrock coming soon. I have 2 batt chargers always charging. Total of four batteries available.
 

srmofo

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Joined
Oct 15, 2009
Messages
6,161
Location
SW ohio
I loved the idea of air hoses in the wall till the thought of a leak changed my mind. Looking good though and hope you dont have to deal with leaks for many years....or adjust that regulator
 

e-tek

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Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Messages
10,690
Location
Saskatoon, SK
Is that regulator plumbed into the wall space???? I'm guessing that's gonna be pulled out when you drywall....

Awesome shop!
 
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Redshift

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Aug 4, 2010
Messages
105
Regulator will be wall mounted when I sheetrock. Possibly all air hose connections,too.
 
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mad57

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Jan 30, 2009
Messages
1,698
Looks good. Was your fiberglass always so dirty looking? Have you air sealed your garage?
Something you might look into if you want a really efficient space, heating/cooling wise I mean. I would also suggest some sheet rock between the inside space and the 2x4's, they like to catch fire when welding at times.
Also you might consider leaving a battery for your cordless drill on a charger, then having the charger connected to a timer, so that you always have one "ready", for when you want to use it.

Otherwise looks good to me.

I really dont think that any chargers should be left plugged in my insurance guy told me he goes to many a house fire claim and those battery chargers are to blame. just my 2 cents great shop continue to enjoy it.
 

srmofo

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Oct 15, 2009
Messages
6,161
Location
SW ohio
holy ****, how big is that header over the garage door? That thing is massive. How long is the span?
 

meissen

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Aug 10, 2010
Messages
944
Location
Macomb, MI
Gorgeous garage! Very nicely done! Makes me want to rip my drywall down and insulate and plumb for the compressor.
 

Charles (in GA)

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Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
Also you might consider leaving a battery for your cordless drill on a charger, then having the charger connected to a timer, so that you always have one "ready", for when you want to use it.

I really dont think that any chargers should be left plugged in my insurance guy told me he goes to many a house fire claim and those battery chargers are to blame. just my 2 cents great shop continue to enjoy it.

The purpose behind the timers is to disconnect the charger MOST OF THE TIME so that it does not burn up (timers don't seem to burn up very often, chargers are more prone to overcharging batteries and starting fires) If you don't have the charger charging all the time, then the odds of a fire from them are reduced to near zero. I use timers on my automobile battery chargers in the shop when I put one on the tractor or mower, as I'm prone to forget it for a day or two. I turn the timer dial so it charges for several hours, then kicks off. Leave the "ON" pegs out of the timer (or put them right in front of the OFF pegs) and it won't come back on (or only for a few minutes).

You can also set it so it charges for only 30 minutes or a hour each day, off the rest of the time.

Charles
 
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Redshift

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Aug 4, 2010
Messages
105
The purpose behind the timers is to disconnect the charger MOST OF THE TIME so that it does not burn up (timers don't seem to burn up very often, chargers are more prone to overcharging batteries and starting fires) If you don't have the charger charging all the time, then the odds of a fire from them are reduced to near zero. I use timers on my automobile battery chargers in the shop when I put one on the tractor or mower, as I'm prone to forget it for a day or two. I turn the timer dial so it charges for several hours, then kicks off. Leave the "ON" pegs out of the timer (or put them right in front of the OFF pegs) and it won't come back on (or only for a few minutes).

You can also set it so it charges for only 30 minutes or a hour each day, off the rest of the time.

Charles

Not a bad idea, Charles. I'll definitely consider it. I do leave my motorcycle trickle charger plugged in constantly to keep the battery fresh, maybe a timer on that one also.
 
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