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Epoxy on interior wood stairs? Other ideas welcome.

Fawesome

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May 13, 2010
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Houston
Hello,

I have an wooden interior staircase that I am considering coating with an epoxy coating (with non-slip additives) and I wanted to get your thoughts about the applicability/practicality of the idea... the stair case is the first (only) thing one sees when entering from the outside and is the only way to access the living quarters (in a garage apartment). I was considering going with a full broadcast for the "granite" effect. Currently the stairs are just plain wood boards painted black. I would want to try to round out where each step raise/run meets with a filler of some sorts. It is a pretty standard sized single story stair case ~4 ft wide. I estimate a total of ~110 sq ft... I have attached a couple pictures for reference (please ignore the painter :)

Thoughts? Ideas?

I also looked at rubber stair treads but at ~$50 each the total came to more than I care spend on this project.

Thanks for your time.
 

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Hammerdown

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The full broadcast of flakes to prduce a Terrazzo or granite look is a good idea, and the texture of so many flakes, even with a clear top coat should provide a rougher texture that is inherently non slip. Don't know if retailers will sell the materials for such a small area and what it would cost but it would worr and look nice.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Hello,

I have an wooden interior staircase that I am considering coating with an epoxy coating (with non-slip additives) and I wanted to get your thoughts about the applicability/practicality of the idea... the stair case is the first (only) thing one sees when entering from the outside and is the only way to access the living quarters (in a garage apartment). I was considering going with a full broadcast for the "granite" effect. Currently the stairs are just plain wood boards painted black. I would want to try to round out where each step raise/run meets with a filler of some sorts. It is a pretty standard sized single story stair case ~4 ft wide. I estimate a total of ~110 sq ft... I have attached a couple pictures for reference (please ignore the painter :)

Thoughts? Ideas?

I also looked at rubber stair treads but at ~$50 each the total came to more than I care spend on this project.

Thanks for your time.

Good choice. It's a bit messy and inconvenient working on the stairs but can be done. Do your risers first, then go back and finish with the treads.

We have the colored quartz sand and the epoxy binder if you need it.

Good luck.
 
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Fawesome

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Houston
Thanks -

Are there any specific epoxies that are better or design for use on wood?

What would be the proper preparation? Would I need to sand down the stairs first to remove all the original paint of just enough to rough it up?

Has anyone done this before? If so how did it turn out? Any pictures would be welcome!
 

Hammerdown

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If there is paint already there, you can either remove it down to the substrate, or you can coat over it. To remove it chemically strip it with paint stripper (Bix, Jasco, Strip-Ease, Citrisolv, etc.). Apply the stripper over the paint and cover with visqeen plastic sheeting. This will hold the paint stripper from evaporating and it will re-attack the paint. Scrape with a razor scraper. You can sand it away as well or sand it to coat over it. Use a 60 grit paper to rough up the existing paint, remove the debris and coat over it. If its flaking off I would remove it and not rely on putting something over it.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Thanks -

Are there any specific epoxies that are better or design for use on wood?

What would be the proper preparation? Would I need to sand down the stairs first to remove all the original paint of just enough to rough it up?

Has anyone done this before? If so how did it turn out? Any pictures would be welcome!

We typically recommend a flexible epoxy primer(bridging primer) for wood installs due to the movement, expansion, contraction, etc...

Our customers use over wood all the time. We had a customer call in last week for a wood floor in a motorcross trailer!!
 
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Fawesome

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Houston
Here is an example of the look I'm going for on my stairs - different color though...

Thanks to Pete of Citadel flooring systems for sharing this picture with me.
 

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Fawesome

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Hey Scotty - Does you company have a system that they would propose for my project? If so would you minf PM'ing me a quote? I'd appreciate it.
 

Sam Navarro

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Texas City,TX
Instead of stripping the product I would recommend using a water based epoxy with the flake broadcasted over and then top coatings with a urethane. I sell a waterbased system that works great and has little to no odor. I'm here in Houston as well so that would work for you. What you want to do is sand the existing coating to knock down the sheen, then I would apply the epoxy at about 4mils WFT, apply the flakes and then clear going about 6 mils wft. you could walk on the stairs in about 4hrs if you use these products. let me know if I can help.

Sam Navarro
832-618-0447
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Instead of stripping the product I would recommend using a water based epoxy with the flake broadcasted over and then top coatings with a urethane. I sell a waterbased system that works great and has little to no odor. I'm here in Houston as well so that would work for you. What you want to do is sand the existing coating to knock down the sheen, then I would apply the epoxy at about 4mils WFT, apply the flakes and then clear going about 6 mils wft. you could walk on the stairs in about 4hrs if you use these products. let me know if I can help.

Sam Navarro
832-618-0447

Sammy:

Nice job, that's exactly what we quoted.
However, we are using a vertical formulation to control running down the risers.
 
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Fawesome

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Well guys here is a photo series showing the progression of the project:

From the before through the preparation, at various stages in the progress, and the final product.

Enjoy!
 

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Slowboat

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Does the epoxy have the flexibility to move seasonally with the wood? Especially in a coating that thick, I would worry about cracks, etc as the wood swells and shrinks.
 
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Fawesome

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Looks good, what products did you end up using?

Thanks - Scott posted all the details in a separate thread:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1443888

Here is the Legacy Industrial product line-up:
*HD-821 Epoxy Crack Filler used to fill joints, nail holes and cracks
*HD-139 Flexible Epoxy Base Coat used for a flexible base
*Full multi-colored paint-flake broadcast into the base coat
*Top coat of HD-344 Poly Aspartic Clear Coating
*Soft-Skid non-skid additive broadcasted and backrolled into topcoat



Does the epoxy have the flexibility to move seasonally with the wood? Especially in a coating that thick, I would worry about cracks, etc as the wood swells and shrinks.

Well time will tell.. but supposedly the epoxy used was chosen with this application is mind.

Special thanks to Scotty of Legacy Industrial for all his help answering my persistent phone calls and emails (even on the weekend). This was my first epoxy experience and naturally I was a bit anxious during the entire project.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Ken:

You went into this the right way. You came to the site and asked lots of questions.
Congratulations on a great job, you did all the work. :)
 
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