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Rebuilding a vintage drill.

Kirbot

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Well...
There was a post not long ago asking about re-wiring a vintage power drill.
Vintage power tools are sort of my speciality, so I figured I would share some of the information I have gathered on the subject.

The tool I'm working on is an old Black & decker "Home Utility" 1/4" drill.



I bought this drill close to a year ago, but I already had one just like it, so it just sat.
So, I figured this would be the perfect opportunity to get it working.


On this particular drill has two screws in the back....


...and one screw in the bottom.


Remove all of them, and it should come right apart.




It's quite simple really.
Just cut the old cord out, and solder in the new.

The internal wire in these old tools usually holds up much better than the actual power cord.
You could slip a piece of heat shrink tube over it to preserve it, but If it already falling apart, in my opinion the tool belongs in a scrap yard.
These tools are not rare, and generally just not worth the trouble to tear into them any farther than the power cord. It is possible to "rewind" electric motors, and basically replace every ounce of copper in them, but I would never bother with these, unless it was something really special.

In this picture, a "ring" type crimp connector has broken off one of the wires.
I just stripped it back a little, and crimped on a new one.


Now, find a power cord to replace the old one with.


Now feed it up through the hole in the bottom of the handle. Next, find a piece of steel wire, and crimp it down around it. That will keep the cord from pulling back out.


This drill came with a ground wire on it already, but many of them do not.
If your's didn't have one, you'll have to find something to attach it too.


Now, add a "ring" crimp connector to one of the wires, and reattach it to the switch.
You will need to attach the other wire to the wire coming out of the windings.
Originally it was attached with a wire nut. Nothing wrong with that of course, but personally I would rather solder it. So thats what I did, and then covered it with heat shrink tube.


And now, reassemble everything just the way you found it.


Now, lock the switch in the ON position, (if your drill doesn't have a lock on it, I would suggest taping the switch in)
Now, plug it in, it should come right on and work great, but just incase you made a mistake, at least it's not going to electrocute you if your not holding it.

Thats all for tonight. There are a few other things you can do before calling it finished, but chances are, it should be working now.
 
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Bull

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I was the one that asked about the rewiring, and so I appreciate this thread.

I'm going to post up some pics of an older (but not that old) Milwaukee that I'd like to rewire. I will try to find the drill tomorrow.
 

OldHarley

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What did you do to restore the chuck key?, and by chuck key, I mean the water pump pliers and nail set.

At least that's what my grandfather used. ;-)

Oh, and his drill is red.
 

kc-steve

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Thanks Kirbot. :)

Although I have over 30-years of electronics experience, your instruction is very informative. I too plan to refurbish a couple of old steel drills. The best one is around a 1960 steel-case Porter-Cable 1/2" with spade handle. Another has to be a 1950's steel-case Clarke 1/4" and I was told that it was made by a local company (Kansas City). And yet another is an old B&D 1/4" but I think it dates around 1972 when my wife gave it to me for Christmas.

Thanks again,
Steve
 

Lump

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A good friend just offered me a giant old Black and Decker drill...the two-handed kind with a screw-in handle. Best of all, it is offered free. Now that I have watched this simple demo, I think I will accept his offer!

Kudos, Kirbot!
 
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Kirbot

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A good friend just offered me a giant old Black and Decker drill...the two-handed kind with a screw-in handle. Best of all, it is offered free. Now that I have watched this simple demo, I think I will accept his offer!

Kudos, Kirbot!

Great!
Is it similar to mine, or a different design?
They also made a 3/4" version that looked basically the same, but was even bigger.
p1130822.jpg
 

Lump

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Great!
Is it similar to mine, or a different design?
They also made a 3/4" version that looked basically the same, but was even bigger.
I don't know, honestly. I haven't seen it yet. I work with him every day, and today I'll ask him if he is still willing to give it to me. If so, when I get it, I'll post some pix. :thumbup:
 

bonneyman

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Maybe I should send my old drill to you for a tune-up:
IMG_0399.jpg

IMG_0398.jpg

IMG_0397.jpg


The power cord/switch needs work, and I'm not a power tool specialist. This thing has got wood strips as insulators between to stator sections!
I got this from my father-in-laws estate, and I'm afraid of screwing it up.
 

Mavawreck

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I've got a vintage right angle drill that has some dead spots on commutator, anyone have a recommendation of someone who could rewrap it for me?
 

Packard V8

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I've got a vintage right angle drill that has some dead spots on commutator, anyone have a recommendation of someone who could rewrap it for me?

There are two electric motor shops in Spokane and they'd just laugh if someone brought in a drill armature to rewrap. Their minimum bench cost is $75, whether they fix it or not.

jack vines
 

Lump

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I sorta remember that my dad used to have a few tricks which he used on old automotive starter motors, when they had "dead spots" (it's not always easy to find another starter for a Grant Six or a Gray Motors or a Hupmobile, and we didn't always have the funds necessary to pay for an overhaul by an electric motor shop).

Anyway, if we didn't have the correct brushes, dad would rummage through his stuff and find a set of oversize carbon brushes and grind them to the correct size. Then he would lightly sand the contact surface, and sometimes I think he would use a little file or piece of a hacksaw blade, and deepen the grooves on the contact surface on the armature. (Maybe I am not remembering correctly? :headscrat It's been literally 40 years ago when I last saw him do that). Anyway, this trick usually worked for him, at least for a while. Maybe you could try something like that on your old drill?
 

kc-steve

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I think Lump's description is pretty accurate. Back when I was an electronics tech I did something similar with the commutator and brushes. I used a FINE grit sandpaper like 1000-grit or so and "cleaned" both. :)

More often than not I only did that as a preventative measure and not so much as a repair measure. I was working on dialysis machines, and needless to say, I didn't want to allow one to break down in mid-service.

Steve
 
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Mavawreck

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My dad replaced the brushes and cleaned the commutator as you guys have described and I think a rewrap is in order. I realize this is out of the ordinary these days, I was just hoping there might be someone out there that could still do this. It's a pretty cool vintage Sioux close quarter drill that I would hate to toss, looks almost identical to the ones they still make and Milwaukee sells but I have to imagine the internals are different.

Theres a picture of one on this page
http://www.jitterbuzz.com/indtoo.html
 

Lump

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I think Jacks point was that it's easy to find a local shop who can repair your drill, but costs are likely to be much higher than the value of your old drill. You might be able to find a used one like it that works, for much less. But if you have sentimental attachment to that drill, GO for it. We tool collectors can certainly understand that!
 
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betulauber

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nice write up

i have two of these old drills, and just replaced the cord and rebuilt a 1970's black and decker similar to this one a few days ago.
i cleaned the communicator (slip ring) also with fine sandpaper. (its the copper part on the motor where the brushes contact. they tend to get groves and burned over the years).
on the black and decker its easy to do. remove the three screws on the front.
that will expose a drive gear that connects the motor to the chuck. mine had old crusty grease, so I cleaned that up and regreased it.
then you can pull out the motor where you can get to the communicator on the back.
you have to remove the handle and the spring loaded brushes (replace if necessary) to put the motor back in.

good luck
 

rick carpenter

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I've got a Stanley Victor Type 114 1/4in 115V 1.8A drill, it's a heavy little booger -- and it works as is. I have no idea how old it is. Showing my complete lack of knowledge of these things, it has an inline "saw handle" like bonneyman's with a rocker switch, but not as big a unit as that one. It looks to have been rewired with a modern-day three prong orange h/d extension cord. Any idea of what the original cord may have looked like? Once I find that out, if I can, I will go through your exercise and rewire it. That might not be as easy as yours was. My handle is molded to the rear of the case. Looks like the switch pops out so it might not be too bad. Next would be taking apart and/or cleaning up the chuck mechanism. It's not frozen, but it sure is gunked up.
 
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betulauber

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the cord on mine was a two wire braided fabric cord. it was twisted with jute or some kind of course thread inside.
it had frayed and the insulation broke in severals places, so i replaced it with a modern plasic insulated cord.
 

gbond

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do you know the age of this drill an the year it mwas built ? I have one just like it !
 
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Kirbot

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Wow, I forgot all about this topic.
Guess I really should add some more info like I was going to.

do you know the age of this drill an the year it mwas built ? I have one just like it !

I'm pretty sure it's from the 1940s
 

gbond

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do you know what year this drill was made ? I have one just like it !
 

gbond

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thank you ! I could not find any info online anywhere . The home utility division was started in the 20's .
 
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Kirbot

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thank you ! I could not find any info online anywhere . The home utility division was started in the 20's .

Let check through the paper work that came with this drill.

Maybe that will narrow it down some.
 

ryan_289

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Where do you locate a power cord? Ive got an old grinder that we have taped up the cord in several places that needs a new one.
 
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Kirbot

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Where do you locate a power cord? Ive got an old grinder that we have taped up the cord in several places that needs a new one.

Go to lowes or your hardware store of choice and you can either buy it by the foot and get a replacement plug to wire into it yourself, or just buy an extension cord and cut the female end off.
 

jfrank

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I just finished replacing the cord as you have. Also, cleaned everything. I note that you also have the same chuck. I have been looking it over and haven't figured out how to break it free and replace it. Have you tried it? It is aluminium and I didn't want to crack or break that chuck. Any thoughts how to get it off?
 

Provincial

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When polishing the commutator on a motor or generator, it is best to use silicon carbide paper rather than aluminum oxide. The aluminum oxide can leave particles embedded in the copper segments that will wear out the brushes quickly. The silicon carbide is less prone to this. I understand that this is due to the nature of the abrasives and the aluminum oxide continually breaks off pieces to expose the next layer of abrasive.
 

Gregg33

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I bought an old school B&D drill today. I'm guessing it's 80's vintage. Made In Canada, 3/8" variable speed. The type I grew up with, except the ones I had as a kid had the upper body in orange plastic, this one is turquoise. Anyways, I picked it for $5. It works well, the brushes seem to be good (no arcing), sounds pretty smooth, chuck works etc. There is a small amount of "bearing noise" when the drill stops. I've used way worse sounding power tools, but I was wondering is there a way to repair this problem, can something be greased or a sealed bearing easily replaced. Not a huge deal, as it's mostly a conversation piece and it's not even that bad (probably would last a year of heavy use, several years as much as I use it), but if it's something that is fairly easy to repair I'll give it a go, worst thing that could happen is ruining a $5 drill. ;)
 
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