Wilton Bullet 9350, resto, surprise

gilbo · Mar 19, 2011

today i decided to take apart the wilton bullet 9350, for my next resto,

well there was a surprise for me, in the process of doing this, i remember reading DavidB's, disassembly guide his vise had a SINGLE pin in body of the vise to hold the acme screw nut. As Gomer Pyle would say, "SURPRISE, SURPRISE, SUPRISE there was TWO in mine.

You are probably saying whats the big deal, but here is the catch, I didnt remove the end cap yet, if i had did that b4 i went on to PINS, it would have been fine.

So moral of this story:

REMOVE END CAP after removal of acme screw b4 goin on

well in the process of trying to push the pins back in place, i ended up damaging the tail piece of the bullet, where the pins are locked in

here are a couple pics:

Damaged tail piece

LIVELY · Mar 19, 2011

WOW--can it be welded up and redrilled?? :beer:

airbuff101 · Mar 19, 2011

Hell Gilbo, that ain't quack on a duck.
Taper the ends of the pins and carry on sir. That vise will never know the difference.
airbuff

gilbo · Mar 19, 2011

i think i can fill that in with a dab of JB weld, and it will b ok

DavidB · Mar 19, 2011

Ouch that *****, but it's not fatal. I will update my guide to mention the two pins. Would it be correct to say that you drive the pins in one direction until one falls out and drive the remaining one in the other direction?

gilbo · Mar 19, 2011

DavidB said:
Ouch that *****, but it's not fatal. I will update my guide to mention the two pins. Would it be correct to say that you drive the pins in one direction until one falls out and drive the remaining one in the other direction?

well i was an idiot, and punched in the pins on both sides, one more than the other, so the answer to your question is yes, but u still have to remove the end cap first, bcuz the pin sort of got lodged on the internal wall of the nut, so if i had removed the end cap, i could have used a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the pin

Catalyze · Mar 20, 2011

Cyber hug to you Gilbo....
It's not a fatal bit of damage. You could try a bit of JB or just carry on gently on replacing the pins. I have done worse when I was installing a piston with rings and got one ring hung on the edge of the cylinder. Lesson learned for next time. On a positive note, you probably saved someone in the future from a similar situation. Thanks for posting!
Craig

DavidB · Mar 20, 2011

I've updated my guide with info about this and a note of caution.

asp · Mar 20, 2011

LIVELY said:
WOW--can it be welded up and redrilled??

It could be, and that's probably what I'd do. It would be tricky to get it all lined up perfectly for drilling though.

***** about your misfortune but good luck with the resto

gilbo · Mar 20, 2011

think ill wrap a pin in wax paper, insert it temporary, then dab it with the jb weld to shape the fill

gilbo · Mar 20, 2011

asp said:
It could be, and that's probably what I'd do. It would be tricky to get it all lined up perfectly for drilling though.

i figured the weld could happen but like u said alignment would b a pain that is y i decided the jb weld route would b easier

larry_g · Mar 20, 2011

I'm not an expert here but what would prevent you from rotating the cap 90 degrees and putting in a new set of holes?

lg
no neat sig line

gilbo · Mar 20, 2011

larry_g said:
I'm not an expert here but what would prevent you from rotating the cap 90 degrees and putting in a new set of holes?

lg
no neat sig line

i don't think that will fly bcuz if u look at the cap one the side is thicker than the other, that help with the alignment if the acme screw nut i blieve,

btw that was d first i thought as well

spongerich · Mar 20, 2011

I recently took apart a mid 80's Wilton 500S and also found that it had 2 pins. I was fortunate not to break anything, but I did manage to get one of the pins wedged in there pretty tightly. I probably spent a half hour trying to extract the @#$%#& thing.

Underdog · Mar 20, 2011

spongerich said:
I recently took apart a mid 80's Wilton 500S and also found that it had 2 pins. I was fortunate not to break anything, but I did manage to get one of the pins wedged in there pretty tightly. I probably spent a half hour trying to extract the @#$%#& thing.

I restored a Wilton model 450 41/2" vise. It looked clean on the inside so I just washed the old grease off the acme screw in a parts washer then blew dry and re lubed. Why chance a problem by tearing down completely?

mjozefow · Mar 20, 2011

The cap should be taking very little force in that direction.

autopts · Mar 20, 2011

mjozefow said:
The cap should be taking very little force in that direction.

Mitch, thats a strange end housing. I've never seen one off centered. Guys, there should always be two pins holding the end housing on Wiltons. If there was only one, the spindle assy. would not be able to go all the way back hitting the straight pin leaving about a 3/16"- 1/4" gap between the jaws closing all the way. I've occasionally had that problem selling jaws to customers that had their vise reworked with thicker jaws using a solid straight pin in back.

gilbo · Mar 20, 2011

Underdog said:
I restored a Wilton model 450 41/2" vise. It looked clean on the inside so I just washed the old grease off the acme screw in a parts washer then blew dry and re lubed. Why chance a problem by tearing down completely?

well when i removed the screw not sure what kind of greased was used, maybe bacon grease bcuz the smell from it about made me gagged, :puke:

also the amount that was used, it was simply caked on there, i should have taken pics of the amount of grease in there, thats what made me decide to take the screw assembly out as well. there would been no way i would have been able to get all that grease out

gilbo · Mar 20, 2011

autopts said:
Mitch, thats a strange end housing. I've never seen one off centered. Guys, there should always be two pins holding the end housing on Wiltons. If there was only one, the spindle assy. would not be able to go all the way back hitting the straight pin leaving about a 3/16"- 1/4" gap between the jaws closing all the way. I've occasionally had that problem selling jaws to customers that had their vise reworked with thicker jaws using a solid straight pin in back.

i think davidb only had one bcuz his assembly was different from mine, his pin went under the assembly, mine went through

asp · Mar 20, 2011

My small bullet is like Gilbo's, for what it's worth...

Catalyze · Mar 20, 2011

My 9450 has 2 pins....well...it had one but has holes for 2. I used socket head 1/4 inch bolts cut short enough to fit flush with the inside of the screw nut. The bolts don't prevent the screw from going all the way through and I can take a pair of pliers and grab the small bolt heads to just pull them out without having to punch them through.
Craig

Catalyze · Mar 20, 2011

Underdog said:
I restored a Wilton model 450 41/2" vise. It looked clean on the inside so I just washed the old grease off the acme screw in a parts washer then blew dry and re lubed. Why chance a problem by tearing down completely?

Why? Because I am one of "those kids" that always tear things down too far. I always want to see what's inside the thing that is inside the inside thing. I am an idiot about doing that, but it has gotten me experience in repairing things that should have been left alone. LOL
Craig

gilbo · Mar 20, 2011

Catalyze said:
My 9450 has 2 pins....well...it had one but has holes for 2. I used socket head 1/4 inch bolts cut short enough to fit flush with the inside of the screw nut. The bolts don't prevent the screw from going all the way through and I can take a pair of pliers and grab the small bolt heads to just pull them out without having to punch them through.
Craig

now i like that idea, another tip that makes life a lot easier :thumbup:

DavidB · Mar 20, 2011

autopts said:
Mitch, thats a strange end housing. I've never seen one off centered. Guys, there should always be two pins holding the end housing on Wiltons. If there was only one, the spindle assy. would not be able to go all the way back hitting the straight pin leaving about a 3/16"- 1/4" gap between the jaws closing all the way. I've occasionally had that problem selling jaws to customers that had their vise reworked with thicker jaws using a solid straight pin in back.

Yeah, as Gilbo mentioned my Wilton has a single pin that goes under the nut. I guess mine may be the exception though.

bgott · Mar 20, 2011

well when i removed the screw not sure what kind of greased was used, maybe bacon grease bcuz the smell from it about made me gagged, also the amount that was used, it was simply caked on there, i should have taken pics of the amount of grease in there, thats what made me decide to take the screw assembly out as well. there would been no way i would have been able to get all that grease out .

That ain't no ****! I went out and pulled the sliding jaw out of my C1 one night to check the date and I couldn't get that stinkin' stuff off of my hands! I think they used lard based machining oil or something like that.

gilbo · Mar 21, 2011

bgott said:
That ain't no ****! I went out and pulled the sliding jaw out of my C1 one night to check the date and I couldn't get that stinkin' stuff off of my hands! I think they used lard based machining oil or something like that.

xactly, that what i'm talkin about

steelkilt · Nov 2, 2011

I know this thread is old but I'd like to chime in with my recent experience with my Wilton breakdown and question. I had TWO pins, not one. I found this out by some quick screwdriver length measurements down the nut tube and figured it must be two seperate pieces. I had further made the mistake of pounding one pin down some until I ran out of pin punch length. I didn't know the pin length would JUST clear the nut tube id. So as you can probably guess that I started pushing in the other pin. This just made a mess with some pretty hokie disassembling technique but I was fortunate enough to get everything apart with only a couple dents and scratches that will be hidden. One last word of advise before I continue on that I haven't read previously, don't re-insert the screw to try to "twist" anything loose. I some how was able twist something and proceeded to put punch marks on the outside of the collar THINKING I was driving in a pin! So, pick one pin and drive it thru, all the way until you can remove it, then turn your attention to the other pin.
Now, since my pins are bent and in bad shape, where do I obtain new ones? Or should go the two-socket-head-tap some threads route. That might look bad but it'll get the job done, right? Thanks

autopts · Nov 2, 2011

QUOTE " Now, since my pins are bent and in bad shape, where do I obtain new ones? Or should go the two-socket-head-tap some threads route. That might look bad but it'll get the job done, right? Thanks[/QUOTE]

1/4" steel rod cut to 1" will do. Guys, I've taken apart a few of these bullets in my time and honestly, its not worth trying to completely dis assemble them. There is plenty of room inside that fuselage for your solution should you use one to clean the insides without removing that threaded collar. Wilton quit making those end caps years ago and finally obsoleted some of those part #'s. Sometimes doing less is best. Alot of original paint was on that beauty!!

CaseyJoes. · Nov 3, 2011

gilbo said:

I think a little bit of careful braze action would be the best and strongest repair for that.

steelkilt · Nov 3, 2011

Yeah I have to agree with you on the full removal deal, there was no bag of gold in there once it was disassembled anyway, I should've left it. Thanks for the 1/4 rod tip though

Jeep Monkey RTR · Oct 18, 2012

So I'm an idiot and also tried to punch out the pins thinking there was only one... Doh! Now I'm in the same situation with my Wilton 450 and can't get a dowel thru the nut to knock the dust cap off.

Any tips?

autopts · Oct 18, 2012

Jeep Monkey RTR said:
So I'm an idiot and also tried to punch out the pins thinking there was only one... Doh! Now I'm in the same situation with my Wilton 450 and can't get a dowel thru the nut to knock the dust cap off.

Any tips?

Well, your going to have to get the dust cap off the back to go any further. Any long thin object, thin enough to get between the pin and the housing should work. Worse comes to worse, destroy the dust cap like you would a freeze plug on a engine with a drill bit. Guys, you don't have to take that housing out for a complete restore. Its more trouble then its worth.

Jeep Monkey RTR · Oct 18, 2012

autopts said:
Well, your going to have to get the dust cap off the back to go any further. Any long thin object, thin enough to get between the pin and the housing should work. Worse comes to worse, destroy the dust cap like you would a freeze plug on a engine with a drill bit. Guys, you don't have to take that housing out for a complete restore. Its more trouble then its worth.

I will try that. Thanks.

Jeep Monkey RTR · Oct 21, 2012

Thanks for the advice. I got the dust cover off and am trying to decide what to do next.

To continue the disassembly, what do I do next? OR. Any tip to drive the pin back in place?

I realize these are probably dumb questions but forgive me, I new to vises.

Wilton Bullet 9350, resto, surprise

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