What causes paint to do this?

The walls within the first couple feet of the garage door look like this:




What causes that?


History: The garage had a light coat of white paint when we moved in. The walls were dirty, dingy and smelly from cats and needed a cleanup, badly. I pulled nails, filled holes, sanded and wiped down all walls. Then I used Kilz Original.

Some paint and what looked like paper peeled off when I initially rolled on some areas. But a couple areas like the one pictured started flaking off a little while after, maybe a couple weeks, month maybe??

What did I get incorrect?? I also want to lay new paint to get this fixed. Where do I go from here?

Thanks

GirlnAgarage said:

The walls within the first couple feet of the garage door look like this:

What causes that?


History: The garage had a light coat of white paint when we moved in. The walls were dirty, dingy and smelly from cats and needed a cleanup, badly. I pulled nails, filled holes, sanded and wiped down all walls. Then I used Kilz Original.

Some paint and what looked like paper peeled off when I initially rolled on some areas. But a couple areas like the one pictured started flaking off a little while after, maybe a couple weeks, month maybe??

What did I get incorrect?? I also want to lay new paint to get this fixed. Where do I go from here?

Thanks

Click to expand...

No primer originally

walrus said:

No primer originally

Click to expand...

Yep....that brown looks like the bare paper on your drywall.....looks like someone took short cuts...

Now the bad news....unless you remove all the paint....good chance the rest of is going to do the same thing unless someone knows a trick.

That is peeling back to the paper,but from the looks of the floor I'd bet there is no VB under the drywall and moisture,or in this case vapor is getting in the drywall. I'll also bet that if you cut a 16" square piece out of it (between studs), that it will be moldy behind it. I had an issue just like that in a rental back in ohio.

edit) new paint wont fix that,in my experience.

Aww...well, guess there's no way around what it is. It doesn't surprise me someone took shortcuts though. It's the theme of the house

I ran out with the scraper for a few minutes on that spot and yeah, a lot of the paint just peels right off. It leaves it just the paper layer there on the drywall. I don't know if I wanna scrape all the walls. It's 18.5'x20'x8' so that's a fair amount of work. The interior portions of the wall seem better off but probably only a matter of time.

trbomax said:

That is peeling back to the paper,but from the looks of the floor I'd bet there is no VB under the drywall and moisture,or in this case vapor is getting in the drywall. I'll also bet that if you cut a 16" square piece out of it (between studs), that it will be moldy behind it. I had an issue just like that in a rental back in ohio.

edit) new paint wont fix that,in my experience.

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That wall is the south wall. The way the layers go (I had a look when I fixed a cat door the POs cut in it so the wall cavity was exposed to the elements for their terrible carpentry job), there is the drywall, the studs, then (don't know what it's caled) but a 1/2"ish thick black particle-looking compressed fiberboard of sorts, then the exterior brick. The cat door was 17' down the same wall. But the same is also happening on the north wall by the garage door which doesn't share a cavity with the south wall. (Garage door faces west)

There is no insulation and no plastic vapor barrier. House built in '85.


Part of the reno we planned for the garage was to tear out all the drywall on the walls and ceiling, then we wanted to insulate (considering spray foam) then put up new drywall. But a recent HVAC replacement just threw the garage reno out the window for the foreseeable future. For sure the next year. So, drywall is staying up.

Bingo! Cut a piece out and look at the backside,it would be easy to scab back in if thats what you want to do,and then you would know.

edit( If you cut it out and it IS moldy,you need to demo the interior wall (s). Black mold is a very serious health hazard and you should not even be liveing in the house if its present.

trbomax said:

Bingo! Cut a piece out and look at the backside,it would be easy to scab back in if thats what you want to do,and then you would know.

edit( If you cut it out and it IS moldy,you need to demo the interior wall (s). Black mold is a very serious health hazard and you should not even be liveing in the house if its present.

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1969 said:

Moisture.......

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I don't know. Maybe at this point the sweet release of death will be a welcome change from back-breaking work and expensive repair costs


But you're right though about mold being a health hazard and needing attention. When I said 'drywall is staying up' I meant that we decided to forgo ulling it all down for the reno. I'm afraid to have a peak or what I might find

I do have to get on the brick wall exterior a fill soe small holes in the mortar that haev eroded.

Be careful filling holes near the foundation (usually appear as voids in the vertical mortar joints between bricks) as these may be weep holes that allow water to leave the wall cavity behind the brick fascia (brick and mortar are not impervious).

girlnagarage said:

the walls within the first couple feet of the garage door look like this:

what causes that?


History: The garage had a light coat of white paint when we moved in. The walls were dirty, dingy and smelly from cats and needed a cleanup, badly. I pulled nails, filled holes, sanded and wiped down all walls. Then i used kilz original.

Some paint and what looked like paper peeled off when i initially rolled on some areas. But a couple areas like the one pictured started flaking off a little while after, maybe a couple weeks, month maybe??

What did i get incorrect?? I also want to lay new paint to get this fixed. Where do i go from here?

Thanks

Click to expand...

there was no basecote of primer or undercote that i can see.

Other probs is oil base or water base compaterbility with existing paint on walls etc.(water dont mix with oil).

Other than that make sure there is no rising damp and also sand litely prior to painting.

GirlnAgarage said:

But you're right though about mold being a health hazard and needing attention. When I said 'drywall is staying up' I meant that we decided to forgo ulling it all down for the reno. I'm afraid to have a peak or what I might find

Click to expand...

Pulling the drywall down will not cost you anything except for the "back breaking work," and the fact that you'll have to look at those ugly studs for a while, but if you have a mold problem it will allow you to clean that up and get the area dry for when you do make repairs. Since there is no insulation or vapour barrier anyway, you won't be hotter or colder than normal. Best to know what you are dealing with.

MScott said:

Pulling the drywall down will not cost you anything except for the "back breaking work," and the fact that you'll have to look at those ugly studs for a while, but if you have a mold problem it will allow you to clean that up and get the area dry for when you do make repairs. Since there is no insulation or vapour barrier anyway, you won't be hotter or colder than normal. Best to know what you are dealing with.

Click to expand...

I honestly just don't feel like doing it. Haven't got my grunt back from the sprinkler job and HVAC two weekends ago.

I'm sure eventually I'll get curious and work on it. As for the drywall, when they built the house they installed drywall using nails. What's the delicate way to get that out so I don't have to replace panels? I've got plenty of drywall screws on the shelf. But I don't have any tape or joint compound.




So is it moisture or lack of primer that causes paint to do that? Both?

Can't see the pics from here (damn firewall, attached/uploaded images from the forum itself come through OK though), but paint peeling off of a surface is usually:

- prep problem with a dirty substrate/layer;

- or moisture underneath causing the paint to peel off;

- or poor paint (bad batch of paint) or painting (improper temperatures, improper materials/solvents, improper application, etc).

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_...ques/painting_problem_solver/peeling/Peeling/

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_..._solver/peeling/Peeling_DueToMoisture_Inside/

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_...s/painting_problem_solver/peeling/Blistering/

And their general 'peeling paint' page:

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_it_yourself/painting_techniques/painting_problem_solver/peeling/


For most paints (barring some industrial-type coatings or maybe epoxy-type coatings) there is generally no problem or incompatability with putting latex/acrylic paint over or under oil-based paint once the paint films are fully cured and dried IF the surfaces and films are in good condition (clean, dry, good adhesion underneath, etc). Although the 'general' rule is latex/acrylic top-coat with oil-based primer/undercoat because of the difference in expansion/contraction (acrylic expands/contracts more than oil, generally, so the more 'flexible' paint film on TOP is usually OK ,whereas a harder less flexible oil-based paint film on top of a softer more flexible acrylic paint film underneath can lead to problems). In general.

re: moisture and brick and vapor barriers

As mentioned, brick (and masonry in general) is porous and lets moisture through pretty well. If the back of the outside brick is right up against the outside sheathing (the "1/2"ish thick black particle-looking compressed fiberboard of sorts", which sounds a bit like a type of Homasote board/sheathing ), then you may have BIG problems as moisture will have soaked the sheathing (there is SUPPOSED to be an air gap/space between the sheathing and the back of the brick/masonry just for that reason of keeping water from touching/soaking right into the sheathing). Which may have turned it all black from mold. Which is a BIG (and finally recognized) health problem.

If there is a large-scale black mold problem, the semi-good news -may- be that homeowners insurance policy MAY cover the costs to fix the problem. Check to see if there is mold and check to see if your policy covers it.

Just leaving the mold in the walls is NOT an option, as the spores spread and get air-borne. Moldy drywall has to be removed, and moldy framing (joists, bottom plate, rafters, sheathing, whatever) has to be treated to kill and/or encapsulate mold. If the wood is not rotten as well, in which case the wooded items have to be removed and replaced.

Don't ignore possible black mold problems. The only real way to tell is to open the wall up and look. Doesn't necessarily have to be removing the WHOLE wall, at least for the first look-see.

If the mortar on the brickwork is cracked or crumbling or otherwise damaged, then you may have to tuck-point the exterior. That involves removing 'bad' mortar and removing enough 'good' mortar to allow you to go back and repack and retool (smooth and shape) the mortar joint(s).

re: pulling nailed drywall down

Usually not possible. You can't (usually) just pull the drywall sheet intact off the framing, as unless the fasteners are SOOOOO bad/gone/poor as to be non-existent, the drywall will break/crack/etc when you go to pull it off. And you (usually) can't get a nail-puller (cat's paw, Wonder-Bar, etc) into the surface to pull the nails without (usually) wrecking the surface of the drywall from the digging and prying. If you can even FIND all the nails. Same for drywall screws, unless you have LOTS of patience and some skill/luck at popping a screwdriver tip exactly into the (buried under paint and paper/fiberglass tape and joint compound) hidden screw recess. One of those theoretically possible tasks that really doesn't happen in the real world.

btw, are you the holster-maker from WeldingWeb? If so, hi. If not, hi too.

Can't see the pics from here (damn firewall, attached/uploaded images from the forum itself come through OK though), but paint peeling off of a surface is usually:

- prep problem with a dirty substrate/layer;

- or moisture underneath causing the paint to peel off;

- or poor paint (bad batch of paint) or painting (improper temperatures, improper materials/solvents, improper application, etc).

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_...ques/painting_problem_solver/peeling/Peeling/

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_..._solver/peeling/Peeling_DueToMoisture_Inside/

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_...s/painting_problem_solver/peeling/Blistering/

And their general 'peeling paint' page:

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_it_yourself/painting_techniques/painting_problem_solver/peeling/


For most paints (barring some industrial-type coatings or maybe epoxy-type coatings) there is generally no problem or incompatability with putting latex/acrylic paint over or under oil-based paint once the paint films are fully cured and dried IF the surfaces and films are in good condition (clean, dry, good adhesion underneath, etc). Although the 'general' rule is latex/acrylic top-coat with oil-based primer/undercoat because of the difference in expansion/contraction (acrylic expands/contracts more than oil, generally, so the more 'flexible' paint film on TOP is usually OK ,whereas a harder less flexible oil-based paint film on top of a softer more flexible acrylic paint film underneath can lead to problems). In general.

re: moisture and brick and vapor barriers

As mentioned, brick (and masonry in general) is porous and lets moisture through pretty well. If the back of the outside brick is right up against the outside sheathing (the "1/2"ish thick black particle-looking compressed fiberboard of sorts", which sounds a bit like a type of Homasote board/sheathing ), then you may have BIG problems as moisture will have soaked the sheathing (there is SUPPOSED to be an air gap/space between the sheathing and the back of the brick/masonry just for that reason of keeping water from touching/soaking right into the sheathing). Which may have turned it all black from mold. Which is a BIG (and finally recognized) health problem.

I measured - the gap between the black layer and the brick is 4".


If there is a large-scale black mold problem, the semi-good news -may- be that homeowners insurance policy MAY cover the costs to fix the problem. Check to see if there is mold and check to see if your policy covers it.

Just leaving the mold in the walls is NOT an option, as the spores spread and get air-borne. Moldy drywall has to be removed, and moldy framing (joists, bottom plate, rafters, sheathing, whatever) has to be treated to kill and/or encapsulate mold. If the wood is not rotten as well, in which case the wooded items have to be removed and replaced.

Don't ignore possible black mold problems. The only real way to tell is to open the wall up and look. Doesn't necessarily have to be removing the WHOLE wall, at least for the first look-see.

If the mortar on the brickwork is cracked or crumbling or otherwise damaged, then you may have to tuck-point the exterior. That involves removing 'bad' mortar and removing enough 'good' mortar to allow you to go back and repack and retool (smooth and shape) the mortar joint(s).

I've already been planning to do this. I closed up the cat door on that wall a few weeks ago (replaced about 14 bricks) so that's when I took note of the condition of the wall, particularly the mortar. Many of the holes are located in the vertical joints of the wall. Looks like the mortar got soft and crumbled and washed away with rain.


re: pulling nailed drywall down

Usually not possible. You can't (usually) just pull the drywall sheet intact off the framing, as unless the fasteners are SOOOOO bad/gone/poor as to be non-existent, the drywall will break/crack/etc when you go to pull it off. And you (usually) can't get a nail-puller (cat's paw, Wonder-Bar, etc) into the surface to pull the nails without (usually) wrecking the surface of the drywall from the digging and prying. If you can even FIND all the nails. Same for drywall screws, unless you have LOTS of patience and some skill/luck at popping a screwdriver tip exactly into the (buried under paint and paper/fiberglass tape and joint compound) hidden screw recess. One of those theoretically possible tasks that really doesn't happen in the real world.

Yeah, I figured that wouldn't be easy. Again when I worked on that cat door area I pulled off the torn up drywall around that framed section so I could see the studs. I was disappointed to see the nails holding the drywall in. The pieces had to be broken off then the nails removed on their own.

I don't know, I don't think it's going to be a simple pull a sheet down and put it back. I've looked at drywall prices a little bit already when writing up my reno plan. I was figuring $300 for materials.

What I don't want to do is pull the wall down and redo it only to tear it down again because we need to get to the ceiling a year down the line. (How do you do juts the ceiling only when the ceiling drywall has to be installed first before walls?)

I'm not convinced there's mold in there. But then again I just saw what our 1985 Trane air handler looked like There wasn't any mold on the drywall which was directly around the cat door, and I know moisture was getting in there.

I can hear it now, "Sweetie, we already talked about this".



btw, are you the holster-maker from WeldingWeb? If so, hi. If not, hi too.

To answer all the old questions

I'm tired of the speculation and the spoolin' up.

Does this answer mold and moisture questions?

The above looks dry and unaffected by mold. The stud behind it looks dry and unaffected. I don't see any bubbling or discoloration on either the wood or the back of the drywall to indicate moisture is or was present.


That being the case, I'm looking at a lack of primer being the cause of the paint peeling off, right?

Looks good. Always better to know for sure when there is a possible health issue. Now the only problem is to get that paint off so you can prime it.

BTW: PM'd you.

MScott said:

Looks good. Always better to know for sure when there is a possible health issue. Now the only problem is to get that paint off so you can prime it.

BTW: PM'd you.

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Got it -thanks




Yeah, looks like there's scraping to do. That's a hard pill to swallow though. The majority of the rest of the walls look and feel to have the paint on there pretty good. I guess the catch is I won't know until I scrape.

We have found that the All Purpose Valspar primer from Lowes will stick and seal just about anything. It has saved us a bunch of hassle on porous surfaces (drywall, panelling, bare trim) during the refinish of our old house. Looks like you have a prep issue and not an moisture issue - a good thing.

Congratulations! This is one time I'm glad I was wrong!

you just un-covered one thing though....there is no insulation in those walls


same thing at my house though, the garage is not insualted on its exterior walls, only the living area is insulated..

Ima gonna fix that when I re-drywall my garage though...now that 90% of my house is re-done and looks good, my wife keeps telling me how ****** the garage looks compared to the rest of the house....which is a good thing I guess

trbomax, I'm glad you were wrong too

shanker said:

you just un-covered one thing though....there is no insulation in those walls


same thing at my house though, the garage is not insualted on its exterior walls, only the living area is insulated..

Ima gonna fix that when I re-drywall my garage though...now that 90% of my house is re-done and looks good, my wife keeps telling me how ****** the garage looks compared to the rest of the house....which is a good thing I guess

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Yeah, insulation was one of the things we wanted to do (also want to get the garage door done for the west sun). I envy your getting your place about done!

In our garage the north wall is (also has water pipes) and the east wall (to the interior) is as well, but not that south wall. I'm not sure yet if the ceiling is. The master bdrm and guest bath is right above it. Seems like it would be insulated to help avoid temperature swings but there's no telling with this house. Maybe I'll cut a hole up there too. Is there codes about cutting a peek hole in the garage ceiling if its to an interior room?

Falcon67 said:

We have found that the All Purpose Valspar primer from Lowes will stick and seal just about anything. It has saved us a bunch of hassle on porous surfaces (drywall, panelling, bare trim) during the refinish of our old house. Looks like you have a prep issue and not an moisture issue - a good thing.

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I have seen that and wondered if it worked well. I appreciate the thoughts!

shouldnt be an issue regarding cutting holes...the most important thing is that you do not want exhaust fumes getting into the house.

Both my garage doors face West (3 car garage) and after getting a good deal on a 150mph rated Insulated Raynor door, it made a HUGE difference in the summer afternoon temperatures....

When I gut and re-dryall, I plan on going back with spray insulation and 6mil poly sheeting to totally seal off the house from the garage...like yourself, I have a bedroom above the garage.

shanker said:

shouldnt be an issue regarding cutting holes...the most important thing is that you do not want exhaust fumes getting into the house.

Both my garage doors face West (3 car garage) and after getting a good deal on a 150mph rated Insulated Raynor door, it made a HUGE difference in the summer afternoon temperatures....

When I gut and re-dryall, I plan on going back with spray insulation and 6mil poly sheeting to totally seal off the house from the garage...like yourself, I have a bedroom above the garage.

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I just noticed you're down in CC. My folks are there and it's where I'm from. Small world. Sounds like your place and ours face a few of the same challenges. I need to do a little more research on the garage door insulation. No compromising on that, well, a price within reason of course.


Ok, Fumes should be a non-issue right now. No vehicles are parking in there and the motorcycle is parked for a bit. I'll keep that in mind with the peek hole. I usually run a fan in there during work time, especially in summer. I was under the impression that the interior wall also acted as a firewall. Will the peek hole compromise that?


I

I also agree with the oil base primer to stick. ( im a house painter 20 years) Just scrape the loose stuff off and lightly scrape to the edges until you get a spot where it is kinda all stuck still. Take a THICK oil primer ( Kilz oil would work) and use a brush and brush into the scraped edges. Sort of pushing the primer against/under the edge, lay it on thick. But most important, push that paint into the edges, then before it dried lightly level the excess off. Thats about the best way without scraping. Usually in my travels, the things that cause peeling are . "cheap" latex over oil.....no primer ( on new surfaces) .......large temperature changes ( causing the paint to flex) ...moisture behind the painted surface....some kind of residue like an oily substance behind the paint. Theres a few more im sure....

Just looked at the pics again.... I ran in to this recently painting some old apartments. Happened on all my ceilings when i rolled them. Mine was definately a non primer issue and they sprayed paint and texture over the bare drywall. Even using Kilz original probaly wont help, because even if you get it on without the peeling, the bonding properties in the paint will lift the old stuff right off as it adheres. I bet you could take a high pressure blow gun and compressor and blow alot of the stuff off .

Leeboy20 said:

Just looked at the pics again.... I ran in to this recently painting some old apartments. Happened on all my ceilings when i rolled them. Mine was definately a non primer issue and they sprayed paint and texture over the bare drywall. Even using Kilz original probaly wont help, because even if you get it on without the peeling, the bonding properties in the paint will lift the old stuff right off as it adheres. I bet you could take a high pressure blow gun and compressor and blow alot of the stuff off .

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Thanks for the thoughts Leeboy. I see you had two different thoughts based on looking at the pics. I wondered if by applying new paint to the good sections if the would end up peeling too. I may do a test patch and see what happens.

Well, its a coin toss. But definately do a test spot first. When i have ran into this in the past, sometimes you only get a few spots that will lift off with the stickyness of the roller just rolling over it. Other times , i have painted, thinking its fine, hour later you look at the wall and its bubbling in large sections and you practically have to pop them and let them go down. One job i remember , which i use in reference alot , was someone put latex over oil and you could scratch it off by using your finger( not your finger nail) i gave it a light sand and used a product called Envirogaurd(made by General Paint) Its 100% waterborne acrylic and is very hard to get off your hands if it has the chance to dry. Since the wrong product used previous, was latex, ( which is porous) I decided to try this envirogaurd, and it actually penetrated the previously used latex product and bonded so well, i couldnt scrape it off , no matter how hard i tried. But, definately work the peeling areas, until you get to a section it has actually stuck, prime the heck out of it , and then you can add a little filler to smooth it and paint it out. Hiopefully , its only a few areas that are bad.

Or....one job , that i was getting so frusterated with, i said "screw it" , went and bought 1/4 drywall and covered the room......

GirlnAgarage said:

snip-snip-snippity-snip-snip

Is there codes about cutting a peek hole in the garage ceiling if its to an interior room?

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Sort of. If you put a hole in a fire-rated wall/partition, you HAVE to 'fix' it in order to maintain the fire rating. And a ceiling in a garage with a room of the house over it sure is (or SHOULD be!!) a fire rated structure.

Several ways to go. If you have (or can borrow) one of the fiber-optic inspection cameras, you can make a (relatively) small diameter hole in the drywall, look around with the camera, and then just patch the hole (fire-stop caulk filling the hole to full depth or fill the hole full depth with joint compound).

Barring that, I'd say to find two ceiling joists and carefully cut through a section of drywall with a utility knife right on-center of those two joists and then cut across (neatly and carefully). Remove the cut drywall section, look around as needed, and if there is no insulation you'll just end up removing all the ceiling drywall any way in order to put insulation in the joist cavities. Then you get to put all new ceiling fire-rated drywall up.

If the (carefully cut and removed) drywall section shows that there actually IS insulation and a vapor barrier up there (hopefully you didn't cut through the vapor barrier, if you did then tape it back neatly), then your neatly cut and removed section of drywall goes back in place with the appropriate fasteners and then you tape and fill the seams with joint compound just like any other drywall job.

re: the painting issue.

As mentioned, you have to clean and prep the surface to get paint to stick. If you have unknown 'crud' on the drywall that is going to be more of an effort to scrape and scuff and wipe-down, then the option to just put up 1/4 inch drywall over everything and then prime and paint over THAT might be the way to go.

Half-way decent paint should be able to stick and adhere to clean but unprimed drywall. It just takes a LOT of coats to cover nicely (ghosting and blocking and the bare drywall paper just ***** up the paint). I've used the PVA drywall primer on 'new' drywall and it has worked well. Seals and primes well, then two top coats of paint and done.

Proper prep prevents piss-poor paint performance.

Hmmm, maybe run slat-wall or (painted) peg-board on all (or most of) the walls? Saves scraping and painting, and gives you storage options as well.

I believe you said that your intention is to eventually remove the drywall and insulate, so IMHO I wouldn't spend a whole lot of time and energy trying to make this drywall perfect. Just scrape of what you can and touch up those areas so it looks decent. If other areas peel, just redo them.
As to the hole in the ceiling, why can't you just cut the piece out as you did on the wall and then replace it, (use some 1x4 behind the cuts and rescrew) mud and tape over the gaps. That way you will know what is behind the ceiling and there will be no issue with gas or firewall breaks.

MScott said:

I believe you said that your intention is to eventually remove the drywall and insulate, so IMHO I wouldn't spend a whole lot of time and energy trying to make this drywall perfect. Just scrape of what you can and touch up those areas so it looks decent. If other areas peel, just redo them.
As to the hole in the ceiling, why can't you just cut the piece out as you did on the wall and then replace it, (use some 1x4 behind the cuts and rescrew) mud and tape over the gaps. That way you will know what is behind the ceiling and there will be no issue with gas or firewall breaks.

Click to expand...

That is correct that we eventually want to pull all the drywall and insulate. And definitely why I don't want to get too deep fixing the paint at this time. I do have to touch up the front wall where I removed the sprinkler control box and PVC pipes, plus clean up where I added a new 2x2' drywall on that cat door section I closed up. So, I'll have a little painting to do to bring the walls back up to par. But it won't be a redecorate quality by any means. Just want it to be 'fixed for now' so it doesn't look junky until we do get around to a redo

Well, I'll put a hole in drywall any day. Filling and taping a joint wasn't bad at all. I worked on the cat door section and the peek hole I made. Anyway, I don't know if I'd be as la-dee-da about it if I were doing the entire garage...but I'm not, so I am

I'll be sanding the area down and getting it ready for paint.

Just getting around to the walls now. I've scraped some of the lower half of the wall. Some of that stuff scrapes & peels off easily. Other sections are stuck on there a lot better. I think I'll leave it as is as I've scraped off the loose stuff.

I took my little orbital sander and knocked down a lot of the high spots from a terrible tape & mud job. Also sanded the entire wall. In one section though I ended up ripping out the paper tape so I think I'm going to fix that with new tape and compound.

Once those repairs are done I'll sand the sections again, wipe it down and then put a coat of primer one and see what happens.

If it scrapes off then scrape it off. If it stays on there then more than likely it will stay for a long time. Not always true but in this case I think you are OK without getting every bit of paint off. Use a nice Oil Based Primer as stated above. Kilz is a great product.

To prevent this from happening in the future use a PVA Drywall Primer from Sherwin Williams or Glidden on freshly hung/taped/mudded Drywall. Both great products.


You were right in poking around to make sure there was not moisture issues in your walls. Definitely not wasted time.

Best of luck.

GirlnAgarage said:

The walls within the first couple feet of the garage door look like this:

What causes that?


History: The garage had a light coat of white paint when we moved in. The walls were dirty, dingy and smelly from cats and needed a cleanup, badly. I pulled nails, filled holes, sanded and wiped down all walls. Then I used Kilz Original.

Some paint and what looked like paper peeled off when I initially rolled on some areas. But a couple areas like the one pictured started flaking off a little while after, maybe a couple weeks, month maybe??

What did I get incorrect?? I also want to lay new paint to get this fixed. Where do I go from here?

Thanks

Click to expand...

Hi Buddy, I know about these things, the problem which caused your paint to crack and peel is one of two things, 1, the paint dried too quickly for it not to adhere to the plaster board, or 2, the paint was a bad batch. or not mixed correctly, or out of date.
A pro easy fix, used a lot over here,
repaint the area with PVA glue mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with water ratio, this will solve the problem, then repaint using which ever colour you need, thats a tip from the pros,

PPP (piss poor paint)

rockchucker said:

If it scrapes off then scrape it off. If it stays on there then more than likely it will stay for a long time. Not always true but in this case I think you are OK without getting every bit of paint off. Use a nice Oil Based Primer as stated above. Kilz is a great product.

To prevent this from happening in the future use a PVA Drywall Primer from Sherwin Williams or Glidden on freshly hung/taped/mudded Drywall. Both great products.


You were right in poking around to make sure there was not moisture issues in your walls. Definitely not wasted time.

Best of luck.

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Thank you. I've got a fresh can of Kilz that'll be going on. We'll see what happens.

billybudge said:

Hi Buddy, I know about these things, the problem which caused your paint to crack and peel is one of two things, 1, the paint dried too quickly for it not to adhere to the plaster board, or 2, the paint was a bad batch. or not mixed correctly, or out of date.
A pro easy fix, used a lot over here,
repaint the area with PVA glue mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with water ratio, this will solve the problem, then repaint using which ever colour you need, thats a tip from the pros,

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I appreciate the tip I'm planning to prime it all white. Then I'll come in with a lower half green to match my shelves and a nice bright white on top. Probably do a black stripe in the middle.




...maybe...still debating paint color scheme...but it's definitely getting a new prime

TOOL MASTER said:

PPP (piss poor paint)

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What is piss poor paint and what is good paint?