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What unique features did you do or wish you had done when planning you garage?

5wndwcpe

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Joined
May 1, 2007
Messages
1,143
Location
Southeastern, PA
Ok fellas, I'm in the planning stages of a 28 x 56 attatched garage and am trying to finalize all of those little details you usually think of after the joint is built. The obvious things like a lift or blast cabinet can all be added later. What I'm talking about are more or less design features. For example, in my last garage I put outlets high on the wall, up near the ceiling. This worked out great for neon signs, clocks and reeled drop lites. So what did you incorporate or wish that you had ?
 
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PAToyota

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Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
4,366
Location
South Central Pennsylvania, USA
You mention blast cabinet and lift can be added later... But make sure you have room for things - like make sure the ceiling is high enough for a lift. Also, things like the Liftmaster Door Openers are neat, but I can't put one in because the door is too close to the steel beams to fit one in. You can usually download installation guides for things that you might put in later on and make sure that you have the clearances or room for them.
 

bmwpower

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
12,578
Location
NJ
Add a bathroom
Add an office
Add a place for a compressor...really a compressor "room"
Add a beam for a trolly crane
 

JohnZ

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2005
Messages
475
Location
Washington, Michigan
After many years of having 2-1/2-car garages, I built my "dream garage" to these specs seven years ago:


Size: 44’ x 58’ x 12’ attached garage; 2552 sq. ft., less 256 sq.ft. for 16’ x 16’ corner office, net garage floorspace is 2296 sq. ft.

Construction: 2x6 framing for maximum insulation (R-26 walls, R-58 ceiling), custom-built 62’-long 12/12-pitch trusses for 58’ inside clear span (no columns or walls). Fully-finished walls and ceiling painted off-white, five 6’ x 6’ Andersen casement windows for plenty of daytime natural light.

Doors: Openings framed with laminated headers for custom-built oversize 18’ x 8’ Taylor sectional insulated overhead doors, 1-1/4”-thick steel/foam/steel sandwich construction with tubular seals between sections and vinyl perimeter seals for maximum insulation. Windows in top section of each door for additional natural light. Door in lift bay installed as a “high-lift” with horizontal tracks only 9” from the ceiling so that door can be opened fully with a car at maximum working height on the lift. The 8’-high opening allows rolling the lift outside on its caster kit when needed. Lift-Master electric door openers.

Floor: 10-mil poly moisture barrier on tamped soil and crushed gravel, covered with ½”-thick 4’ x 8’ sheets of high-density closed-cell foam with heavy foil on both sides for insulation and a secondary moisture barrier. Steel mesh on wire stands over that, with a 4”-thick concrete slab; provides a fully-insulated, dry, and moisture migration-proof floor. The “step” area at the front of the garage was poured 60” wide instead of the usual 30” to provide plenty of space for the main workbenches and stools.

Floor Coating: HomePro Floors (www.homeprofloors.com) steel shot-blasted the floor to clean it and open up the pores in the “skin” to provide the “tooth” for bonding epoxy resin. Two coats, 24 hours apart, of 2-part industrial epoxy resin, with the second coat tinted light gray and lightly-sprinkled with fine silica sand for anti-slip when wet; their “Classic Floor System”. Absolutely indestructible, hot tires won’t mark it or lift it, impervious to all automotive chemicals including brake fluid, very easy to keep clean. The light color and reflectivity just about doubles lighting effectiveness.

Lighting: Seven 8-foot twin-tube fluorescent ceiling-mounted fixtures, bank-switched in groups so only the ones needed in a given area need to be on.

Lift: Cytech Double-Park (www.doublepark.net) 4-post 7000# capacity lift with 110V offset power unit, caster kit, drip trays, jack bridge, aluminum ramps, and drive-thru capability.

Electrical: Separate 100-amp service and breaker box, including 220V for compressor and welder, ten 120V circuits for lighting and outlets. Wall outlets EVERYWHERE, extras in the ceiling in the work area for cord reels and drop lights to keep cords off the floor. Phone and cable in main workbench area, with wall-mounted TV/VCR.

Standby Power: 18,000-watt Generac fully-automatic natural gas-powered standby generator system (shared with the house).

Heating: Reznor 125,000-BTU power-vented forced-air gas ceiling-mounted unit heater with electronic ignition (no pilot flame); could have gone much smaller due to the effectiveness of the total garage insulation system.

Air Conditioning: Mitsubishi 42,000-BTU high-wall-mounted ductless split system – only requires one 3-inch hole in the wall for refrigerant and condensate drain lines from the inside evaporator/air-handler unit to the outdoor compressor/condensing unit. All functions operated by a hand-held remote.

Water: Hot/cold water with industrial spigot and 50-foot wall-mounted retracting hose reel in work area, also in wash-up sink in the office.

Floor Drain: None – prohibited by local codes; floor slab is pitched toward the doors.

Compressor: DeVilbiss 6.5-hp 220V belt-driven oiled compressor, vertical 60-gallon tank, 10.5 SCFM @ 90 psi; mounted on rubber body mount cushions for reduced noise/vibration. FRL unit feeds a wall-mounted 50-foot retracting hose reel.

Tool Storage: Craftsman ball-bearing rollaways, main bench area is ball-bearing service carts with casters removed, spanned by a custom-built Formica top. Additional Craftsman and wire-rack storage cabinets and shelves.

Wall Storage: White 3/16” pegboard on 1” x 2” framing.

Decoration: Restored Sunoco 260 gas pump, Eco TireFlator station, drive-in speakers, lots of framed photos and Corvette/Viper/Ferrari automobilia on the walls.

Office: 16’ x 16’ fully-enclosed office in the front corner of the garage, with casement windows overlooking the garage area and outdoors. Bank-switched recessed lighting, ceiling fan, built-in computer desk area, custom cabinets and Formica countertops, 16-foot workbench with Masonite top, washup sink, under-counter refrigerator, phone & TV/ethernet cable, wall-mounted TV/VCR, mirrored curio cabinets for die-cast collection.

:beer:
 

Charles (in GA)

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Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
Floor thick enough to properly anchor a two post lift (even if you don't, the next guy might want to) and enough height at that point for any reasonable vehicle on that lift.
 

REFLEXX

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2005
Messages
913
Location
Riverside, CA
Phone, cable, cat5 and speaker wiring IN THE WALLS!

gloss paint, low texture walls, - low maint.

Window AC units in oversized "windows" made just for fitting these AC for units. 10 years from now, when one craps out, I pull it out and replace it!

Drop down, retractable power and air. I have dozens of electrical outlets in the walls and use the retractable 99% of the time!!!

kitchen / office cabinets out of craigslist!

Details here:
 

SteveL

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2005
Messages
760
Location
St. Louis, MO
Some of the things I added when we did an addition.....ran copper air lines in walls and ceiling for two reels on the ceiling and three drops on the walls for blast cabinet, filtered/regulated for spray gun, etc. Hot/cold water in two places, one near overhead door for hose reel mounted inside so nothing freezes. 19 duplex 110v receptacles. Some high on wall for neon, etc., one over each overhead door for garage door openers and three for cord reels. Two attic ladders and trap door with a winch so that seasonal stuff can be stored up there. Make sure you have lights and switches in the attic as well.

Lots of light and windows. I added an exit door to the back so that overhead doors don't have to be opened and lose all the AC or heat.

Plywood behind drywall in a lot of area so you can anchor shelves, tool hooks, etc. Bracing in the rafters so you can hang elec. and air hose reels. Take pics of locations of this as you WILL forget where you put it in a year or so.

I wish I had a raised area for a work bench and a 12" concrete lip around the walls so you can hose the whole thing out and not worry about getting the drywall wet. I plan on tiling the lower half of mine at some point as I have a floor drain and wash the car inside in the winter.

Oh, and at least 3 or 4 220v outlets. I put in one for the compressor but will need another as soon as I get a welder.

Things I wish I had done.............compressor room, wash up sink, electric winch in attic instead of crank type, higher ceiling, seperate sub panel with it's own 100-200amp service, larger water lines to hose bibs by overhead door (this is about 100' from the water supply and 1/2" does not cut it! Plumber was suposed to run 3/4" but the concrete was in before I found out.). Coat the entire floor BEFORE you move anything in. And bigger is better! I built as big as our city would allow on my lot and wish it were twice this size. (24' x 38')

I will post more as I think of them and good luck!
 
Joined
Jun 23, 2007
Messages
3
I used extra steel straps to anchor the roof to the walls. I put in a single roll up door in the back so I could drive a car through to the back yard and buried several lines for a telephone/computer/alarm system etc. I wish I would have buried lines in the floor for any posible future needs for water. Also put in a power gable vent to remove exhaust fumes and summer heat. Also found a sun light on sale and put in in before the shingles, this has really helped with giving plenty of extra no cost light. Put the rear window up high enough so anyone couldnt break it and climb in without a ladder and added inside braces and a steel bar across the rear door to insure the door could not be forsed open .Installed a silent alarm to wake me up if anyone enters the shop at night and not alert the intruder. (I have plans for this if it occurs)
 

snorvet

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Joined
Oct 29, 2005
Messages
777
Location
Northern Illinois
Wish I'd done in attached garage - floor drains

Glad I did in detached garage- Closets, wall storage system, new workbenches and tool cabinets - it helps to keep things organized and make the most out of a small space
 
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5

5wndwcpe

Well-known member
Joined
May 1, 2007
Messages
1,143
Location
Southeastern, PA
Thanks guys - all excellent ideas, some of which I had already planned to incorporate, but you know how it is, you can never think of everything. Please keep them coming as I'm sure this will help others as well. :thumbup:
 

sjsfire

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Joined
Feb 21, 2006
Messages
371
Location
illinois
I had mine wired for ceiling fan, with brackets on separate switches so I can add the fans later on.
 

Rader Rods

Active member
Joined
Apr 29, 2006
Messages
43
Location
Texas
Don't forget to bury some chain in the slab in a couple of locations.....you can always pull up, but when you need to pull down these come in real handy!!!
 

Beegs

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Joined
Oct 24, 2006
Messages
69
Location
NH



The absolute best thing I did in my shop was to add a urinal. It takes up very little space and it gets used constantly, it's amazing how fast beer gets converted to waste! I put a 220V receptacle in the ceiling for my 4 post lift. (no cord to trip over) I had the truss company add a wedge were the bottom chord meets the top chord, makes for a much nicer room above. My garage door openers are mounted on the wall... gives more usable ceiling height.
I still have a ways to go before it is done but it is far enough along where I can work in it now.
 
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ersatzs2

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2006
Messages
630
Location
Mercer County, New Jersey
Add a bathroom
Add an office
Add a place for a compressor...really a compressor "room"
Add a beam for a trolly crane

Mostly copy bmwpower :)



Ditto on the I-Beam and hoist trolley. My biggest omission.
Ditto on toilet & slop sink


Things I like about my build:
storage loft w/access gate for hoist I forgot to build
floor pots (as someone said, someday you'll want to pull downward)
150 amp panel and lotsa 110/220 outlets
freeze-proof bibs one to outside, one inside shop
high lift doors that track upward with rafters for extra clearance
Lot's of light from 450w metal halides
 

kyoung

Active member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
28
I put a 36" poultry fan in the back of my shop for ventilation..
 

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JMURiz

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Joined
Dec 6, 2005
Messages
1,483
Location
NoVA



The absolute best thing I did in my shop was to add a urinal. It takes up very little space and it gets used constantly, it's amazing how fast beer gets converted to waste! I put a 220V receptacle in the ceiling for my 4 post lift. (no cord to trip over) I had the truss company add a wedge were the bottom chord meets the top chord, makes for a much nicer room above. My garage door openers are mounted on the wall... gives more usable ceiling height.
I still have a ways to go before it is done but it is far enough along where I can work in it now.

Never thought of a 220v in the ceiling for a lift. That's a great idea...what are others' thoughts on this?

My not really unique feature was to put a loft over where my garage door goes up, can't put anything higher than the track anyway so I added ~120sq/ft of storage.
 

BowtieNut

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2005
Messages
138
Location
MN
The best "unique" thing I like about mine is that I combined the shed into it. This may not apply to you, but it worked great for me. Basically my detached garage is 28' wide by 48' deep, but the back 14' is separated into another room. So now I have a 28 x 14 shed, and a 28 x 34 shop, but from the outside they are all the same building. In the shed I can keep the lawn tractor, 4-wheelers, garden tools, and any other dirty stuff that doesn't belong in my shop, but they are all still close. Also, I put the compressor back there so I don't have to listen to that thing run. There's just a 3' mandoor in the wall separating the two spaces. The shop has two 10' doors in the front, and the shed has two 8' doors, one in the back and one in the side so I can get stuff out either end.

Also, the shed portion could easily be converted into a "paint booth" if I or a future owner were ever so inclined. Both spaces have in-floor radiant hydronic heat, and I mounted the boiler & plumbing to the shed side of the interior wall.

Oh, I also have a window A/C unit mounted in the wall between the two spaces. That way I can air-condition the shop space and just crack the doors in the shed to let the heat out. Then I don't have to take the unit out in the winter either cuz both ends are already indoors.
 

NSXSOON

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
221
Location
Florida Space Coast
Take a sheet of Durarock and cut it in half (3'x5' down to 1.5'x5') and use this as the starting course at the fondation and then sheetrock the walls above it. It's the same thickness as sheetrock and will make the lower wall waterproof to the point that you can hose down the entire floor wall to wall and not worry about the sheetrock wicking up any overspray or water puddling. I used stucko patch as joint coumpound on the Durarock to keep it all cement based. After painting it is hard to tell where the transition is.
 

chicane

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2007
Messages
553
Location
Central Virginia
After many years of having 2-1/2-car garages, I built my "dream garage" to these specs seven years ago:


Size: 44’ x 58’ x 12’ attached garage; 2552 sq. ft., less 256 sq.ft. for 16’ x 16’ corner office, net garage floorspace is 2296 sq. ft.

Construction: 2x6 framing for maximum insulation (R-26 walls, R-58 ceiling), custom-built 62’-long 12/12-pitch trusses for 58’ inside clear span (no columns or walls). Fully-finished walls and ceiling painted off-white, five 6’ x 6’ Andersen casement windows for plenty of daytime natural light.

Doors: Openings framed with laminated headers for custom-built oversize 18’ x 8’ Taylor sectional insulated overhead doors, 1-1/4”-thick steel/foam/steel sandwich construction with tubular seals between sections and vinyl perimeter seals for maximum insulation. Windows in top section of each door for additional natural light. Door in lift bay installed as a “high-lift” with horizontal tracks only 9” from the ceiling so that door can be opened fully with a car at maximum working height on the lift. The 8’-high opening allows rolling the lift outside on its caster kit when needed. Lift-Master electric door openers.

Floor: 10-mil poly moisture barrier on tamped soil and crushed gravel, covered with ½”-thick 4’ x 8’ sheets of high-density closed-cell foam with heavy foil on both sides for insulation and a secondary moisture barrier. Steel mesh on wire stands over that, with a 4”-thick concrete slab; provides a fully-insulated, dry, and moisture migration-proof floor. The “step” area at the front of the garage was poured 60” wide instead of the usual 30” to provide plenty of space for the main workbenches and stools.

Floor Coating: HomePro Floors (www.homeprofloors.com) steel shot-blasted the floor to clean it and open up the pores in the “skin” to provide the “tooth” for bonding epoxy resin. Two coats, 24 hours apart, of 2-part industrial epoxy resin, with the second coat tinted light gray and lightly-sprinkled with fine silica sand for anti-slip when wet; their “Classic Floor System”. Absolutely indestructible, hot tires won’t mark it or lift it, impervious to all automotive chemicals including brake fluid, very easy to keep clean. The light color and reflectivity just about doubles lighting effectiveness.

Lighting: Seven 8-foot twin-tube fluorescent ceiling-mounted fixtures, bank-switched in groups so only the ones needed in a given area need to be on.

Lift: Cytech Double-Park (www.doublepark.net) 4-post 7000# capacity lift with 110V offset power unit, caster kit, drip trays, jack bridge, aluminum ramps, and drive-thru capability.

Electrical: Separate 100-amp service and breaker box, including 220V for compressor and welder, ten 120V circuits for lighting and outlets. Wall outlets EVERYWHERE, extras in the ceiling in the work area for cord reels and drop lights to keep cords off the floor. Phone and cable in main workbench area, with wall-mounted TV/VCR.

Standby Power: 18,000-watt Generac fully-automatic natural gas-powered standby generator system (shared with the house).

Heating: Reznor 125,000-BTU power-vented forced-air gas ceiling-mounted unit heater with electronic ignition (no pilot flame); could have gone much smaller due to the effectiveness of the total garage insulation system.

Air Conditioning: Mitsubishi 42,000-BTU high-wall-mounted ductless split system – only requires one 3-inch hole in the wall for refrigerant and condensate drain lines from the inside evaporator/air-handler unit to the outdoor compressor/condensing unit. All functions operated by a hand-held remote.

Water: Hot/cold water with industrial spigot and 50-foot wall-mounted retracting hose reel in work area, also in wash-up sink in the office.

Floor Drain: None – prohibited by local codes; floor slab is pitched toward the doors.

Compressor: DeVilbiss 6.5-hp 220V belt-driven oiled compressor, vertical 60-gallon tank, 10.5 SCFM @ 90 psi; mounted on rubber body mount cushions for reduced noise/vibration. FRL unit feeds a wall-mounted 50-foot retracting hose reel.

Tool Storage: Craftsman ball-bearing rollaways, main bench area is ball-bearing service carts with casters removed, spanned by a custom-built Formica top. Additional Craftsman and wire-rack storage cabinets and shelves.

Wall Storage: White 3/16” pegboard on 1” x 2” framing.

Decoration: Restored Sunoco 260 gas pump, Eco TireFlator station, drive-in speakers, lots of framed photos and Corvette/Viper/Ferrari automobilia on the walls.

Office: 16’ x 16’ fully-enclosed office in the front corner of the garage, with casement windows overlooking the garage area and outdoors. Bank-switched recessed lighting, ceiling fan, built-in computer desk area, custom cabinets and Formica countertops, 16-foot workbench with Masonite top, washup sink, under-counter refrigerator, phone & TV/ethernet cable, wall-mounted TV/VCR, mirrored curio cabinets for die-cast collection.

:beer:


Pics...now please.
 
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ultgar

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2005
Messages
1,119
Location
New Jersey
Never thought of a 220v in the ceiling for a lift. That's a great idea...what are others' thoughts on this?

My not really unique feature was to put a loft over where my garage door goes up, can't put anything higher than the track anyway so I added ~120sq/ft of storage.

Its also a good thing to do in case your building inspector or tax assessor looks inside. As a corded device, the lift is just another piece of equipment in the shop. I did a twist lock receptacle in the ceiling with a 90 degree angle plug. I also put a service switch in the wall next to the lift post to make the inspector happy. SD
 

gotta56forme

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2007
Messages
136
Location
Seattle
This design feature may have been mentioned before, but if not... I'm going to have hanging electronic T8 4' 2-bulb lighting fixtures with plugs. The lights will essentially be in three rows ( left, center, right running from front to back as looking from garage door) with another row running parallel to the back wall. I will have outlets in the ceiling for each row, and will electrically 'split' the outlets to run on different circuits (two or three circuits, haven't decided yet). This way, I can quickly configure/reconfigure my lighting circuits based on personal preference as it develops over time. Particularly, if I don't need all the lights on at once.

Additionally, my attached garden shed will multitask as a compressor room, changing room, bathroom, as well as garden shed.

Also, I will put in wall volume controls for the stereo near the two doors/telephone to save me walking around the shop to adjust the volume. Also, in terms of convenience, I will be getting a CD jukebox down the road because most of the time I can't be bothered to fish the CD's out of their jewel cases. After the lights are on, I'll hit 'Shuffle Play' and turn off the bell on the phone - outgoing calls only!

One last thing, I will be putting two GFCI outlets on the outside of the garage that are switch controlled, so that I don't have to have a door open outside to run any number of corded tools, lights, holiday decorations, etc.

I will have a lighted switch for the storage area to quickly see if I left it's light on.
 
Last edited:

kbs2244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
If you get your CD player with a remote, and use a cordless phone, you can stick the two together with Velcro dots on their backs. Then you can turn down the tunes when you answer the phone.
The cordless phone is handy when you are talking to the parts store and they want to know about something that is under the hood of a car 20 feet away.
 
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5

5wndwcpe

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Joined
May 1, 2007
Messages
1,143
Location
Southeastern, PA
Outside outlets always come in handy. In my last house, I installed outlets, switched seperately, with weatherproof covers in the soffits for x-mas lights. Worked out great, no more extension cords running up the side of the house and all over the yard.
 

Steve in Mi

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Joined
Mar 13, 2007
Messages
1,042
Location
Mid Michigan
Outside outlets always come in handy.
I'll echo that at each of the 4 doors out of my shop and add 1 60 amp welder outlet and 2 air lines (front and back) for easy external use.
For detached garages, three way lighting between the structures is very nice on those dark nights when someone has left an obstacle in the path between the two. Remember to put in that extra wire for this when the service trench is still open.
 

bluesman2a

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2005
Messages
1,312
Location
Atlanta, Ga.
Also, in terms of convenience, I will be getting a CD jukebox down the road because most of the time I can't be bothered to fish the CD's out of their jewel cases. After the lights are on, I'll hit 'Shuffle Play' and turn off the bell on the phone - outgoing calls only!

I survive in my shop much the same way. I like music. But I would have to say, CD's don't survive well in harsh environments with dirt/dust. If you're going to spend that kind of money, you might look into some sort of mass storage device (hard drive, iPod, networked speakers or the like). There are several solutions out there, depending on your tastes/price range. The idea is that you either have zero moving parts or you keep them out of the shop space while still piping in the music/control you want.

Personally, for my system, I have an Airport Express module from my home network that goes to powered speakers in my shop. This allows me to stream about 10GB of music on shuffle. (A little over a week of 24/7 music without any repeats). Other than the speakers, everything else is in my office in the house, safe from the dust/sparks/grime.:thumbup:
 

Steve V.

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Messages
367
Location
Texas
One thing I would do over if I had the chance is to leave the garage with bare

inner frame work (no sheetrock or insulation) at first. That way I could make sure that everything was where I needed it and if I thought of something else I could add it without any problems. Then once I knew I had everything right, insulate and sheetrock it. Another thing I'm getting ready to do is mount a flat screen LCD near my work bench. I'm going to hook it to a computer that I am going to build in one of those very small cases and use a wireless mouse and keyboard that will have their own shelf on the side of the workbench. I hate having to come into the house to look at a picture or read something on the internet and I don't want to print things out. I would rather have it right there at my workbench. I got the LCD for free so it shouldn't cost too much for the other components. What would really be spiffy is that setup mounted onto a work cart with a wireless connection.....hmmmmmm.:thumbup:

One other thing....if you are having the garage built (either new home or add on) check it every day real close. When my house was being built I checked it one day and there was no wiring to the garage. I went the next day after work and all of the wiring and telephone box had been mounted. The sheetrockers were there and going to town. The problem I found was that my phone junction box or whatever you call it was about two feet off of the ground. I went to the truck and got a claw hammer and removed it and placed it right where I wanted it. You have to stay on top of it because most workers just don't give a rats rump.

Steve
 

ersatzs2

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Joined
Aug 9, 2006
Messages
630
Location
Mercer County, New Jersey
Outside outlets always come in handy. In my last house, I installed outlets, switched seperately, with weatherproof covers in the soffits for x-mas lights. Worked out great, no more extension cords running up the side of the house and all over the yard.

Oh that reminds me: a switch inside the house that turns on the garage exterior lights. It was almost an afterthought, but I've appreciated many time now the ability to turn the light off from the house after I've walked back inside and forgotten.
 

Rustang

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2006
Messages
47
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Well, I'm in the midst of my construction and here's some things that have occured to me last minute...

-Some extra studs to mount the basketball backboard (son is only three, but I'm sure this will come in handy in a few years)
-Doubled up studs (sistered?) for a metal stock rack and wheel rack mounted on the wall
-Plug near the upper corners of my roll up garage door for the motor
-Speaker wire runs up high
-Pics of all the walls before drywall and floor before the slab is poured so I know where and where not to drill
-Changing fixed skylight to an opening skylight to vent all of the smoke from me burning something up

That's all I can think of for now, and its last minute enough to almost qualify as a "wish I had done." I'm driving my contractor nuts.

-Jimmy
 
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5

5wndwcpe

Well-known member
Joined
May 1, 2007
Messages
1,143
Location
Southeastern, PA
Just came across another one:

A roof mounted exhaust fan with a furnace filter element (to keep the black roof, well, black) for use when painting cars. I would imagine it should incorporate an explosion proof motor just to be safe around the VOC's.
 

ron in sc

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2006
Messages
1,071
Location
Charleston, SC
An outside spigot with hot water for washing dirty stuff. My contractor suggested this so I did go ahead and have it put in. I never would have thought of doing a hot water outside spigot. I'm in the process of having my garage built now.
 

Grey

New member
Joined
Apr 23, 2008
Messages
1
I would use only the best brands of equipment there are. I am planning one now and have already acquired a Mohawk two post lift which is made in America by Americans. There is no better lift and there is no better warranty. This was only $1300 more than a sheet metal Rotary with plastic slide blocks and thin cables. I will use a Shure workbench and a Champion compressor and Graco lube equipment. I believe in low cost of ownership, high quality American made products. I will have plenty of space as well.
 
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